cheftjpeck Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ok, I already have ford racing springs and KR strut tower brace.. How does the Shelby handling pack http://www.shelbystore.com/Shelby-American-Handling-Pack-Anti-Roll-Kits-Sway-p/s7mk-5490-c.htm Compare to the ford racing m5490-b anti roll kit?? Anyone have experience with them ? I will be making upgrades with shocks and struts too Currently looking at the ford racing m-18000-c damper kit ?? Any experienced advise is welcomed !!! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbackg Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 The difference is color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMcGuirk Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 For shocks and struts go with Tokico D Specs - amazing ride and adjustability Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I have a M-18000-C strut and shock kit for sale (new less the little chrome decals ) which work great for street use and they are adjustable and match up with the FRPP spring rates. I went with the Koni yellow adjustable sport shocks which are firmer because I track my car . I think that I paid $800. for the M-18000-C kit - will let them go for $500. The FRPP springs are a progressive rate spring which works for the street but, for the track you should be using a linear rate spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Can u send me pics of the m-18000-c u are willing to sell?? How many miles / track runs with them? Any problems with them Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 sent a PM to you chef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 sent a PM to you chef Email and pm sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 The difference is color According to Shelby spec, the Shelby kit has adjustable setting for the front bar (soft/street/firm). The other one didn't mention the adjustment. If they both have adjustable I will get one because they are on sale. I don't care about the color just performance. http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/m-5490-b.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 According to Shelby spec, the Shelby kit has adjustable setting for the front bar (soft/street/firm). The other one didn't mention the adjustment. If they both have adjustable I will get one because they are on sale. I don't care about the color just performance. http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/m-5490-b.htm They are the same per Shelby.. Color is only difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 They are the same per Shelby.. Color is only difference Thanks, the part is out of stock because the price is to good to be true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 I have found that the best set up on swaybars for the GT500 is a 1-3/8" (35MM) front bar which is adjustable and a 1" or 26MM adjustable rear bar. The only one I found was a Hotchkis rear bar and using a Saleen front bar (found on e-bay for cheap - bar only) with the Steeda front sway bar billet mounts. Place the front on full soft and the rear on full stiff and it balances out well . Keep in mind I believe in soft spring rates and big sway bars - always seems to keep the tires planted on the surface when driving on rough roads and keeps from beating up my kidneys. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 I have found that the best set up on swaybars for the GT500 is a 1-3/8" (35MM) front bar which is adjustable and a 1" or 26MM adjustable rear bar. The only one I found was a Hotchkis rear bar and using a Saleen front bar (found on e-bay for cheap - bar only) with the Steeda front sway bar billet mounts. Place the front on full soft and the rear on full stiff and it balances out well . Keep in mind I believe in soft spring rates and big sway bars - always seems to keep the tires planted on the surface when driving on rough roads and keeps from beating up my kidneys. B) Thx for the tips So I have the Shelby kit on the way (I think, no one has confirmed it but Robert said it would ship yesterday.. So do you Reccommend just setting it up to the soft setting for my daily driver.. The highways down here are pretty bumpy with all the constant construction going on (kinda reminds me of I-84 in Connecticut or the garden state parkway or jersey turnpike.. Always under construction and bumpy as heck So set it up to soft is best setting? What about the struts? Any tips is greatly appreciated .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Only the front sway bar is adjustable on the Shelby set and it needs to be set to the softest setting ( at the end of the bar-farthest away from the frame bushings ) Also it is good to grease then wrap a layer of teflon tape around the bar where the frame bushings go to prevent sqeaking noise (of course use grease on the inner hole of the mount bushings)and then after mounting the sway bar to the frame check to make sure it rotates freely(not loosely) before hooking up the end links - this makes sure that your not placing the sway bar in a bind and causing the spring rates to become affected . Let the sway bar do its job and the springs do theirs. Use washers between the frame and the brackets(if needed to shim) to free any binding. Initially the struts and shocks should be set to full soft for the initial 100 miles or so and then brought up in increments starting with just the fronts (leaving the rears at full soft) until you feel it is too stiff and then back off to the prior setting then moving to the rears to match the feel/response. What some of us will do is drive over R/R track crossings or lane divider box dots(if you have them on the roads there) and feel/hear ( you can accually hear the difference in pitch )if the tires are bouncing off of or slapping down to the road surface telling you that it is too stiff. One of the improvements done on the Boss 302 to get a more neutral handling was to increase the rear sway bar diameter. All todays cars are built to understeer by law today due to supporting the air bag as a saftey item but not everyone wants a car to push (understeer). Spring rates are to manage the weight load -struts and shocks job is to control spring ossillations-sway bars are to limit body roll but all 3 contribute to ride quality and control (handling). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Thx for the tips So I have the Shelby kit on the way (I think, no one has confirmed it but Robert said it would ship yesterday.. So do you Reccommend just setting it up to the soft setting for my daily driver.. The highways down here are pretty bumpy with all the constant construction going on (kinda reminds me of I-84 in Connecticut or the garden state parkway or jersey turnpike.. Always under construction and bumpy as heck So set it up to soft is best setting? What about the struts? Any tips is greatly appreciated .. Give us an update when set up is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Only the front sway bar is adjustable on the Shelby set and it needs to be set to the softest setting ( at the end of the bar-farthest away from the frame bushings ) Also it is good to grease then wrap a layer of teflon tape around the bar where the frame bushings go to prevent sqeaking noise (of course use grease on the inner hole of the mount bushings)and then after mounting the sway bar to the frame check to make sure it rotates freely(not loosely) before hooking up the end links - this makes sure that your not placing the sway bar in a bind and causing the spring rates to become affected . Let the sway bar do its job and the springs do theirs. Use washers between the frame and the brackets(if needed to shim) to free any binding. Initially the struts and shocks should be set to full soft for the initial 100 miles or so and then brought up in increments starting with just the fronts (leaving the rears at full soft) until you feel it is too stiff and then back off to the prior setting then moving to the rears to match the feel/response. What some of us will do is drive over R/R track crossings or lane divider box dots(if you have them on the roads there) and feel/hear ( you can accually hear the difference in pitch )if the tires are bouncing off of or slapping down to the road surface telling you that it is too stiff. One of the improvements done on the Boss 302 to get a more neutral handling was to increase the rear sway bar diameter. All todays cars are built to understeer by law today due to supporting the air bag as a saftey item but not everyone wants a car to push (understeer). Spring rates are to manage the weight load -struts and shocks job is to control spring ossillations-sway bars are to limit body roll but all 3 contribute to ride quality and control (handling). Thanks for all inputs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3ponies Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 I have the Upper Control Arm and Shelby Sway Bar Kit on order too. I am looking forward to the upgrade. I have the FRPP lowering Springs and am hopeful this will be a good addition. I think the car sits pretty well now. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 If you alter the ride height on these cars you must also either install an adjustable panard/track bar (reccomend adding the support brace and relocation bracket-factory stamped one is pretty weak and at times has a clearance issues) or a watts link set up. Both are intended to keep the rear axle assembly centered to the chassis. The panard/track bar should be level when the vehicle is sitting on the ground but it is not always the case.Being that a panard/track bar is mounted to the frame on one end(fixed point) and the other to the axle it swings through an arc as the suspension goes up and down thus causing the axle to move sideways in relationship to the chassis ( this why you want the panard/track bar as long as possible and level so when it does go through its arc it causes the least amount of side movement ). If not you will find like some have that the ammount of side travel will put a load on your poly bushings and cause a noise ( AKA front bushings on rear lower control arms along with the upper at the frame bracket )or worse- tire rubbing. Watts linkage has several advantages over a panard/track bar one being that the center pivot keeps it from moving side to side when properly installed and also can have its height changed to effect roll center in the rear of the vehicle. The key point to adjusting the panard/track bar or watts linkage is to make sure the axle is centered to the chassis. Alot of people will place the car on a LEVEL surface and use a string bob (a weight on the end of a string)and drop it off of the body and measure to the wheel face - DO NOT TRUST THE BODYWORK-it is BEST to have the vehicle on an alignment rack and go underneth to the unibody and find a spot on the frame (edge of frame rail by rear brake hose frame mount) and measure to the inside machined edge of the wheel. Make sure you are using the same location points on both sides of the car . You can always use the plumb bob method as a double/secondary referance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Awesome tips... Please note what I learned is I just changed my springs o the ford racing springs back about 25,000 miles back and I'm sure albino can elaborate ... Well since just switching the springs my stock shocks and struts are already worn and bad after 49k miles total on the clock .. So my advice is if you switch springs consider the shocks and struts to match... Just my opinion... Also when I switched my springs , uca and lca.. I actually got lucky and did not need a panhard bar.. But most do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Well since just switching the springs my stock shocks and struts are already worn and bad after 49k miles total on the clock .. Most factory shocks and struts are designed to get you off of the showroom floor and into your warranty period. Ever wonder why a new car feels so smooth? Brand new tires, brand new shocks. I'm not sure about a set of "high performance" shocks/struts like the GT500's are supposed to have but a regular production shock is trash after just a little driving. I think you did good to get 49K miles on your dampners. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3ponies Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 You guys make me feel like the young grass hopper on Kung Fu, Light years ahead of me. When I put the Shelby Lower Control Arms on 2 weeks ago I started to get some banging on bumps. Dealer adjsuted the factor Panard as far as they could. So what set up do you recommend for this and if I replace the Panard is there a good adjustable Shelby one. I don't want to kill the ride as it is a cruiser and will never be road tracked as it is a vert. Thanks much, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Most factory shocks and struts are designed to get you off of the showroom floor and into your warranty period. Ever wonder why a new car feels so smooth? Brand new tires, brand new shocks. I'm not sure about a set of "high performance" shocks/struts like the GT500's are supposed to have but a regular production shock is trash after just a little driving. I think you did good to get 49K miles on your dampners. Phill Probably since recommended switch is 50k and up... However I would think that having the lowering springs on the stockers didn't help either.. Again JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onirb Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I went for the Shelby handling pack and it arrived today. It is not even installed and my dog found it comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drc767 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I received and installed my Shelby Handling Pak today. I installed the front sway bar on the middle hole. I noticed a previous post in this thread says to put it in the first hole. I really liked the way the car handled on some back country roads when I took it out for a quick drive after installation. What, if any, is the downside to having the front sway bar installed in the middle hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 The middle hole is the next stiffer setting . Basically you want to use the adjustments on sway bars to balance out "understeer" and / or "oversteer" and reduce body roll. So if you feel that the car feels neutral going through a corner and your happy with the improvement / reduction of body roll than you had before I would say you are done. You don't want too stiiff of a setting where as the car/tire skips out from under you while in a corner because of going over rough / uneven surfaces and you don't want them too soft where as you feel like your'e riding out on the Bering Sea . That's the beauty of having adjustments to play with - you can make it just right - for your style of driving . Go have fun and remember - keep the four round black things on the flat black thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I recieved and installed my Shelby Handling Pak today. I installed the front sway bar on the middle hole. I noticed a previous post in this thread says to put it in the first hole. I really liked the way the car handled on some back country roads when I took it out for a quick drive after installation. What, if any, is the downside to having the front sway bar installed in the middle hole? Is it easy for DIY upgrade with std tools in the garage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Absolutely-just pay attention on assembly that things are not binding and use synthetic grease on the points where the bars are going to need to rotate in the bushings and your"e good to go-baby-go ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjpeck Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Yes... Had my m-18000-c shocks and struts installed (thx albino500) my Shelby handling pack that came in the other day and my bmr adjustable panhard bar and brace.. Combined with my already installed KR strut tower bar, ford racing lowering springs, j&m double adjustable uca and lca's the car handles like it always should have.. Set my front sway bar to the first hole as I was advised to do.. The shocks and struts (still fine tuning to find the sweet spot I like) but this car hugs turns.. No nose pitch ... No skipping notta.. Still can't understand why they didn't come from the factory like this (I know $$$) But what a ride now... Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drc767 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Is it easy for DIY upgrade with std tools in the garage? It is a very simple job. The kit does not come with instructions, but they can be downloaded online. Everything you need for the install comes in the kit, including the grease for the inside of the bushings. I don't think it even took and hour......but I have a lift, so that makes it so much more easy than jacking the car and doing the job on your back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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