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Problem with Supersnake Hood!


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Adding my post from the Mods section hoping SS guys can help!

 

"I just trial fit my Supersnake Hood on my 2008 GT500 and have a problem. The bottom side of the hood hits the air filter on my FRPP CAI and prevents the hood from properly closing by about 1/2". I think I remember reading about this problem on the forum but can't seem to find the threads. Does anyone know of the fix?"

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Well I removed the CAI and found that the hood still didn't sit flush. So I decided to remove the front latch bar that attaches to the underside of the hood and to my surprise the hood now sits close to flush with the fenders. So even though the CAI was slightly hitting, that wasn't what was holding the hood up. It still looks as though I will have to use the hood pins to pull it down another 1/8" or so to make them flush.

 

Is this normal to have the hood pins pull down on the hood? Will that eventually cause cracking in the fiberglass? I thought they were only for a secondary latch for protection against the hood coming unlatched and flying off.

 

It looks like the front latch loop will have to be shortened in order to pull the hood down far enough to make it fit.

 

I know these are aftermarket hoods and they all have to be modified and fit to the car, so I guess I'll let the body shop complete the fit up.

 

Thanks for the help. Rich

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I've never heard of the hood pins being used to actually pull the hood forcibly down like what you're describing. Have you looked into the possibility of getting the engine mounts that lower the engine 1/2 of an inch if that is the cause? If you're out of ideas that is probably where I would turn to next, but I want to say that isn't normal forcing the hood down by the pins like that...

 

Edit: I reread your post, have you tried adjusting the latch down loop or is there much room to even play with for this? Probably isn't an engine interference issue after all, was just going by what I had heard before in the past.

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I've never heard of the hood pins being used to actually pull the hood forcibly down like what you're describing. Have you looked into the possibility of getting the engine mounts that lower the engine 1/2 of an inch if that is the cause? If you're out of ideas that is probably where I would turn to next, but I want to say that isn't normal forcing the hood down by the pins like that...

 

Edit: I reread your post, have you tried adjusting the latch down loop or is there much room to even play with for this? Probably isn't an engine interference issue after all, was just going by what I had heard before in the past.

 

 

Thanks, The latch down loop cannot be adjusted, it's a fixed loop. I'll look to see how much the latch mechanism can be lowered though.

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You're correct about it being a fixed loop, I remember now. I don't have mine back yet from Shelby to compare so I was just going by memory lol. 5 months without my car is far too long...but yes in this case it should be adjustable by the latching mechanism itself. Good luck

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Thanks, The latch down loop cannot be adjusted, it's a fixed loop. I'll look to see how much the latch mechanism can be lowered though.

 

 

Yes, I would see if the latch/catch will adjust downward. I had a 2000 Cobra R with the same issue when it was cold and the FG hood would shrink. I adjusted the latch as low as possible and in cold temps the hood was still hard to close. I ended up removing the latch, rat tail filing the holes for more travel, and then re-installing the latch. It worked correctly after that.

 

 

R

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Yes, I would see if the latch/catch will adjust downward. I had a 2000 Cobra R with the same issue when it was cold and the FG hood would shrink. I adjusted the latch as low as possible and in cold temps the hood was still hard to close. I ended up removing the latch, rat tail filing the holes for more travel, and then re-installing the latch. It worked correctly after that.

 

 

R

 

 

Hey Robert, I was wondering when you post a reply? Your usually one I can count on for help!

 

I got the hood sitting pretty level in the back by adding spacers to the top of the hinges. 5/16" on the passenger and 1/8 on the drivers side. More than I would think you would need, but that's what it took. Hopefully the body shop will have a better fix to raise the hood.

 

I removed the latch loop that attaches to the underside of the hood and found that it was the latch loop that was holding the front of the hood too high and not the air filter. The air filter still hits the underside of the hood, but not too bad. Now I can let the hood lay down on the rubber bumpers. I have to turn the bumpers all the way down in order to get the front of the hood low enough to be level withe fenders. As far as adjusting the latch, I don't see any adjustments. The whole latch mechanism seems to be bolted in with no slotted holes. The only fix I can think of is manufacture another latch loop that is shorter by about 1/2".

 

The hood also appears to need to come forward about 1/4" but can't see any adjustments for that either. The holes in the hinge tops are one slotted and one non-slotted. I'm sure this is for ease of bolt installation. I suppose I could elongate the one regular hole and now have two slotted holes. This would allow me to pull the hood forward.

 

I was very surprised how close everything in the engine compartment is on the new hood. Even the shock towers and fuse box along with the air filter appear to have very little clearance.

 

Any advice to help my hood fit-up would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Rich

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  • 1 month later...

The whole latch mechanism seems to be bolted in with no slotted holes.

 

 

Can you slot the holes?

 

 

Phill

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Welcome to the wonderful world of trying to fit a Super Snake hood. I went through this back in 2008. The SS hood I was sent was a piece of junk. As a matter of fact I got so frustrated with it I decided to send it back but Shelby Performance Parts wouldn't take it back they just put there head in the sand and I got stuck with it.

This is some of what I had to do to make the hood fit my car:

Shim at each hinge bolt to flush out the the hood.

Elongate the holes in the hinges to bring the hood forward enough to flush out with the fenders.

Lower the latch mechanism to flush out the hood with the fenders.

The hood margin at the front of the fenders was good but at the back by the windshield it was to tight so we had to cut the hood from 0" at the front to 1/4" at the back on both sides. Thats 1/2" total we had to cut to make the margins look good.

Plus hours and hours of prep to fill the pin holes and remove the ripples on the fiberglass.

We had over 100 professional hours fitting and prepping the hood but the end result was great. If you search through the old Super Snake post you can find more info I posted on my SS hood. I believe I had about $4500 invested including the cost of the hood. The Grabber Orange GT500 in my sig shows the finished hood. I'm still pissed off at the way I was treated by Shelby when I complained about this hood but I did what I had to to make it right. (So much for customer service) You would think that with the price they charge for that hood it would be a simple bolt on. When I bought the KR hood that I have on my Black GT500 it took me and a friend all of 20 minutes to remove the stock hood and install the KR hood. Also in my sig.

 

Sorry about rambling on but every time I see a post about someone who paid big money for a SS hood having problems with them opens old wounds and I get pissed off all over again.

 

Good Luck

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Welcome to the wonderful world of trying to fit a Super Snake hood. I went through this back in 2008. The SS hood I was sent was a piece of junk. As a matter of fact I got so frustrated with it I decided to send it back but Shelby Performance Parts wouldn't take it back they just put there head in the sand and I got stuck with it.

This is some of what I had to do to make the hood fit my car:

Shim at each hinge bolt to flush out the the hood.

Elongate the holes in the hinges to bring the hood forward enough to flush out with the fenders.

Lower the latch mechanism to flush out the hood with the fenders.

The hood margin at the front of the fenders was good but at the back by the windshield it was to tight so we had to cut the hood from 0" at the front to 1/4" at the back on both sides. Thats 1/2" total we had to cut to make the margins look good.

Plus hours and hours of prep to fill the pin holes and remove the ripples on the fiberglass.

We had over 100 professional hours fitting and prepping the hood but the end result was great. If you search through the old Super Snake post you can find more info I posted on my SS hood. I believe I had about $4500 invested including the cost of the hood. The Grabber Orange GT500 in my sig shows the finished hood. I'm still pissed off at the way I was treated by Shelby when I complained about this hood but I did what I had to to make it right. (So much for customer service) You would think that with the price they charge for that hood it would be a simple bolt on. When I bought the KR hood that I have on my Black GT500 it took me and a friend all of 20 minutes to remove the stock hood and install the KR hood. Also in my sig.

 

Sorry about rambling on but every time I see a post about someone who paid big money for a SS hood having problems with them opens old wounds and I get pissed off all over again.

 

Good Luck

 

 

 

Sorry to say...not only the SS hoods....I went through almost the identical issue with my CS6 hood and about the same cost.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

HI

I aslo purchased a ss hood for my Shelby GT500 2008 and the hood is scratching on the sides round the house of the spring/shocks, will need to get a specialist to rework the hood.

In addition to this the hood have now after 2 years several 1 inch cracs around the air-inlets on top of the hood, Now to the real bad issue: contacting Shelby the just say , well you have to fix it at a "paintshop", what the....

 

You would for sure expect some interest to think about the customer , But sorry that does not exist inside the walls of Shelby performance parts shop in LasVegas.

 

Lennart

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  • 1 month later...

That's because you've put your hands in the wrong place to close the hood. You can't treat it like a steel hood, it's fiberglass, so it's very fragile.

 

I don't recall getting instructions on how to shut the hood, but in any event, I just noticed two small cracks on the upper corner of my inlet on the drivers side, I only have 5000k on the car since my conversion to SS. I called Shelby but no response yet. And for chrissake, it's a car hood it should not be fragile. I also had to have the hood readjusted to align with the fenders, and mine is also hitting my shock towers, causing nicks in the underside of the hood.

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