Suspension help

[wanted2b]

Here we go again. Asking for some help from the more experienced members with some upgrades that I want to make to the rear suspension on my 2012 GT500. The pieces that I would like to upgrade are the lower control arms, panhard bar, and the adjustable upper (anti-wheel hop) kit, plus replacing the two piece driveshaft.

 

I've searched all the parts catalogs and websites and find there are a great number of manufacturers of these parts, but I really don't like to do the trial and error method since I pay someone to do this work. I'd like to have a solid plan and all the parts in hand when I hire someone to to the installing.

 

Thanks in advance for any information you folks may be able to provide.

[Freak]

I'd forget the PHB and get a Watts.

[bonefish]

subscribing

[marsh2o]

Unless money is a serious constraint, I too would pass on the adjustable PHB and go straight for a Watts Link -- either the Griggs or Fays2/Shelby unit will do -- preferably paired with the Griggs torque arm. I think the torque arm provides a much more effective solution to the wheel hop problem than an adjustable UCA.

 

For LCAs you can go with the Griggs (which are actually cheaper then most of the other aftermarket LCAs) or the manufacturer of your choice. I have the BMR adjustable LCAs with the poly and spherical rod ends and have no complaints. While your at it, I would buy the BMR LCA relocation brackets. These bolt it, but BMR recommends welding them too -- for extra strength and reliability -- and that would be my advice as well.

 

You'll also want to install a good set of dampers and lowering springs -- the Ford FR3 package is a good value and includes stiffer front and rear sway bars as well -- along with a shock tower brace for the engine compartment. Another option is to buy a good set of coilovers. Shelby frequently has good sales on the Eibach units they install on the SuperSnake. These are single-adjustable dampers. I am currently running the KW Variant 3 coilovers which are double adjustable and made from stainless steel.

 

I've made some other suspension mods that you might want to consider -- Steeda strut mounts at the front -- which help with camber adjustments. ANd the Steeda bumbsteer and lower ball joint kits, which provide some additional improvements in handling.

 

The net effect of all this is a significant improvement in handling at the expense of some additional NVH -- although, personally, I think it is a good trade off. However, one of my next projects is to install some Dynamat sound dampening material to cut this down a bit.

 

One caveat to this is that the improvements I have seen in handling are in combination with 20x10 front wheels with Michelin PS2 285/30-20 tires up front and 20x11.5 rear wheels with Michelin 335/30-20 in the rear. On an otherwise unmodified car, this stagered tire/wheel package would cause an increase in understeer -- but with my suspension mods (which include the Ford FR3 sway bars) -- the car handles dead neutral in every situation I've driven it in so far.

 

There are many different ways to go with these mods -- but I think that starting with the torque arm, watts link and adjustable LCAs is an excellent place to start.

Edited March 31, 2012 by marsh2o

[goin2dirt]

I did all BMR and couldn't be happier.

[wanted2b]

Thanks for the information. I'm going with the BMR LCAs, Panhard Bar, and adjustable upper control are. Also adding the one piece driveshaft.

[wanted2b]

Brought the car home after having the suspension parts installed. Made a big difference in the control between 1st and 2nd. Before it used to swap lanes, not at least it stays in the same lane. I'm really impressed and I do believe with some MT ETS and some 15 " rims that I can plant most of that power to the pavement. It still spins the crap out of the INVOs up until third gear. It just is easier to handle now. BMR LCAs, BMR Pandhard bar, and Steeda adjustallable upper control arm. Now come the sway bar mount relocators. Thanks for everyones help.