Staff Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Shelby K-Member Support Plates Shelby American's K-member support plates were designed to help prevent the floor pans from twisting under under the stress of high torque and road racing applications. These plates weld onto the sub-frame and the K-member bolts through them, thus allowing the force to be spread out over a much wider surface. Our plates were developed and tested under the scrutinizing eyes of the Shelby American Motorsports shop and are made from high strength steel to our exacting specifications. Applications: 2005-2013 Mustang, Mustang GT, Shelby GT500 and Boss 302 models. Notes: This install requires an experienced technician. New Product Release: 26 January 2012 Genuine Shelby American For more information, please click here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I purchased the Shelby K-Member but have not installed it yet. My question is are these plates meant to be used with the Shelby K-member or is it supposed to be used with the stock ford k-member or will it work with both styles of k-members? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertlane Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I purchased the Shelby K-Member but have not installed it yet. My question is are these plates meant to be used with the Shelby K-member or is it supposed to be used with the stock ford k-member or will it work with both styles of k-members? Thanks Yes, they will work with both Ford and Shelby K-members. On test cars here, we've seen floor pan damage, which is why these were developed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 It would be really helpful if you could post a picture of the underside of a Shelby with these installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Yes, I agree with NMAv, a picture of them welded on a car would be needed as there are no instructions shipped with the plates. Also note that if you buy a kit you get two plates. You need two kits for one car. As the plates are specific (Frt-RH / Frt-LH / Rear-RH / Rear-LH) you need to be careful to have a full kit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Without seeing it and probablly a few member's feedback on the effects of the installation, I can't see spending money on this. Sure would be nice to have installation pictures Robert - or offer someone a discount to install them and document the installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
351PONY Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanE Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I will try to get some photos of the plates when they are installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanE Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Jonathan, did the development of this product result from the Shelby 1000 and testing? I'm just wondering what type of hp and torque would necessitate this type of modification? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Great pictures. Thx. We can see subframe connectors welded on that car also...and welded to those rear support plates (which seems logical). But you do not show the front upper ones where the K member bolts to the unibody (next to the engine mounts). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Jonathan, did the development of this product result from the Shelby 1000 and testing? I'm just wondering what type of hp and torque would necessitate this type of modification? +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwestercamp Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 so stupid question but do you have to drop the K member to get these in? that could be a real B*T*H? Also do you need to order two sets to do one car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 so stupid question but do you have to drop the K member to get these in? that could be a real B*T*H? Also do you need to order two sets to do one car? You could get 'em in, one corner at a time without dropping the subframe. The four bolts up front (two per side) would need to have the keepers pulled so you could lift the bolts up but they're just plastic push-pins and come out/in pretty easy. I can see where if you loosened the rearward mounts then remove the two bolts on one side and pull down, you could slip a plate in. Loosen one side a little, pull the other down and slip in the plate. Repeat for the other side, tighten up the rear mounts then do the same on the front with a jack under the frame. I know *I* wouldn't have a problem doing it but I just pulled my Shelby K-member....just because (added A-arms & centered the off-set I had in it from the first time). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Reading more about the 1000 I gather they installed these to strengthen things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Also do you need to order two sets to do one car? Please answer the above question......... I purchased the Shelby K-Member and plan on instaling it soon I have the support plates in my cart along with a bunch of other items that are on sale. I do not want to spend $100 on these when I don't have it. I would assume $50 should be for a complete set of 4 plates but others here have said that you need to becareful and make sure you order a set of 2 which means you will get 4 plates.....please let us know if $50 buys four plates or if we need to blow $100 to get four plates? With a measly 550 horsepower I doubt I even need them anyways.......What kind of horsepower is needed to justify these plates and why did you paint them on the car wouldn't it had been better to paint them before installing them on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Great pictures. Thx. We can see subframe connectors welded on that car also...and welded to those rear support plates (which seems logical). But you do not show the front upper ones where the K member bolts to the unibody (next to the engine mounts). It would be nice to see all four connecters welded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Okay I just called SPP and asked about these plates if two come in a package or if 4 come in a package. Justin stated that 2 come in the package and that they are only for the rear section of the K-Member and that you do not install them on the front and that there will be instructions showing you exactly how to install them. A phone call will answer all questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Now I get it! Thx NordicShelby! They could have told us earlier ... Only the rear two points are concerned (the rear of the subframe bolts to the sheet metal as opposed to the front which attaches to rails which are much thicker and stronger). The wide plate is for the RH side and the narrow one for the driver side (because of the wires and tubes running under the car along the frame). Makes sense. That is why we got only pictures of the rear two points. That is why when I thought I had received only half of the kit and ordered a second one I received the very same parts... Confusing but logical. At least that story is sorted out. :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Your welcome I can be very detailed sometimes and if the details are not clear I get fixated on them until I figure out what I need to know.....its a different form of Mental illness....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyGJ Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Did anyone figure out what kind of HP requires these to be added? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Mine is a 650rwhp (VMP TVS) and I use it in the mountains. It's a 2007 with 5k miles on it When I took the K Member off to modify the steering (quicker rack & pinion) and lower arms (poly bushings) I noticed the contact area, on the body was warped... Its not bad, but I could see the sheetmetal was bent from the effort transmitted by the K member. You do not clearly see it until you bolt the K member off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Great pictures. Thx. We can see subframe connectors welded on that car also...and welded to those rear support plates (which seems logical). But you do not show the front upper ones where the K member bolts to the unibody (next to the engine mounts). Who makes those subframe connectors and how far back to they go? Seems to be welded to the car right along the frame rail. I'm again assuming this is part of the Shelby 1000 frame rigitity movement.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertlane Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 We'll have the frame connections online this week too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Thanks Robert - I will be watching closely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertlane Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Thanks Robert - I will be watching closely. Here you go - Click here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Here you go - Click here Thank you. Is the part laser etched or cut or stamped with the SHELBY logo or name anywhere? Like you did with the front lower control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69er-sagittarius Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 When installing the plates and preparing for welding must the K-Member be disassembled complete or have just the bolts to be removed from the K-Member where the bolts go through as shown in the pictures overhead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69er-sagittarius Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I can not imagine where and how the plates will be installed. Has somebody some detailed pictures or the installation instructions? My question is must the k-member be removed for the welding of the plates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I can not imagine where and how the plates will be installed. Has somebody some detailed pictures or the installation instructions? My question is must the k-member be removed for the welding of the plates? I will get that information for you. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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