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wheel hop woes


Don Breech

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What is cure for wheel hop? Tires, control arms, what??? And why the heck did these expensive cars come from factory with fairly universal wheel hop problems. How did Shelby let these out of the plant bouncing around in first gear? What is consensus on best solution. My KR hops like a wallaby if I give it any gas in first gear. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

DB, Texas

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What is cure for wheel hop? Tires, control arms, what??? And why the heck did these expensive cars come from factory with fairly universal wheel hop problems. How did Shelby let these out of the plant bouncing around in first gear? What is consensus on best solution. My KR hops like a wallaby if I give it any gas in first gear. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

DB, Texas

 

You could read for days on the different opinions of what works best, at this web site alone. The standard GT500 does the wallaby hop even worse than the KR. KR is a little better because it sits lower than the standard GT500. I have non adjustable J & M Upper Control Arm P/N: UTCA-019 and J & M Lower Control Arms P/N: 23861R with BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets on my FRPP lowered GT500, this combination increased traction and eliminated wheel hop.

If i were to do it again, I would look very closely at only changing the upper control arm and I would stick with the non-adjustable J & M or use the Roush Upper Control Arm, it looks to be a very high quality product. I would stay away from anything adjustable and wouldn't use the BMR control arms as the bushings they come with have had high failure rates. A new Roush Upper Control Arm would be my first choice for solving the problem, his product wasn't for sale when I did mine.

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What is cure for wheel hop? Tires, control arms, what??? And why the heck did these expensive cars come from factory with fairly universal wheel hop problems. How did Shelby let these out of the plant bouncing around in first gear? What is consensus on best solution. My KR hops like a wallaby if I give it any gas in first gear. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

 

I have a 2010 and have *never* had any wheelhop. I've done some pretty hellacious burnouts and nothing but smoke.....

 

Perhaps they changed the rear suspension geometry for 2010?

 

 

Phill

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Watts Link.

 

Maintains factory bushings and does not alter the drivability of the car. Controls pinion angle on acceleration and under braking. Controls side to side movement of the rear end under the car during cornering. Ford should have added a Watts Link to the GT500's.

 

 

Shelby American adds the Watts link to the Super Snake. It doesn't wheel hop either. And the plus is the ride isn't changed.

 

I also, hear very good things about the Roush UCA only and the whole Roush Wheel hop kit. But I think the kit is over kill and the bushings are stiffer, thus a stiffer ride.

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Shelby American adds the Watts link to the Super Snake.

 

 

 

HUH? When did they start doing that? I know a 2012 Super Snake owner that'll be REALLLLLL disapointed about that!

 

I know they put it on the GT350 but never heard of it on a Super Snake. At least not with the SS package (you can get anything after it gets the SS CSM#).

 

 

Phill

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Watts Link is a option for the 2012 Super Snake.

 

That's odd.

 

It's not listed on the Shelby "Build One" site or in any of the Super Snake literature I can find.

 

I know you can get just about anything you want added to a Super Snake *after* it's converted and certified but that's not considered a "option", it's a "Mod".

 

Am I missing the page or just looking right over the option on the Shelby site?

 

 

 

TIA,

Phill

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Don't know anything about whether or not the Watts links are available for the Super Snake package, but I added FR3 handling pack and a Fays2 Watts link to my GT500 last summer and I agree this car never should have left the plant the with suspension it came with. My wife's Honda Accord V6 coupe handled far superior to my 500 before I made the change. I believe simply replacing the soft rubber bushings in the stock upper and lower control arms with some higher durometer pieces will go a long way towards fixing the wheel hop issue, just don't tell my wife I didn't need all the stuff I bought to "fix" my wheel hop issue.

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HUH? When did they start doing that? I know a 2012 Super Snake owner that'll be REALLLLLL disapointed about that!

 

I know they put it on the GT350 but never heard of it on a Super Snake. At least not with the SS package (you can get anything after it gets the SS CSM#).

 

 

Phill

 

 

Phill... I don't get into "This" and "That" or disappointments... But I do believe that Gary P told me this SS had the Watt's link. I drove it. Did several burnouts. No wheel hops.

 

IMG_2849.jpg

 

IMG_2817.jpg

 

IMG_2839.jpg

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I hear many stories about UCA and LCAs, one or the other or both. Some say go with LCAs and others say UCA. I wanted to start with LCAs, but now I'm thinking UCA??? My KR wheel hopped bad with the stock tires. When i went to the 20" Alcoas, I bought the Nitto Invos, not as much traction, no wheel hop. I need more traction for sure, and when I make that change, I will need to adress the wheel hop issue again.

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Phill... I don't get into "This" and "That" or disappointments... But I do believe this Gary P told me this SS had the Watt's link. I drove it. Did several burnouts. No wheel hops.

 

 

IMG_2839.jpg

 

 

Yes, THAT Super Snake would have the Watts Link.

 

Notice the CSM# with the "P" at the end. That is their Prototype car, number 2 of 2. Number 1 is the Silver/Grey one, which has a "001P" designation.

 

In other words, that isn't a Regular Production Order vehicle.

 

 

Phill

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I was told by tuning shops to install the LCA only. The UCA isn't necessary according to them (and these are well known guys who participate on Mustang forums), and also create more NVH.

 

 

From my Mustang drag racing experience, that's pretty much correct. As someone mentioned above, you can go a long way toward solving the problem on a street car by swapping out bushings, but to do that you have to remove the control arms, and they aren't that expensive, so why not just replace/upgrade them while you have them removed?

 

If LCAs don't do the job and you're making enough power to need UCAs, it's probably time to think about other things like stiffening up the whole car with a cage and reinforced torque boxes, etc. Personally, I've alway had good luck with Maximum Motorsports stuff, but that's on earlier Mustangs. Their quality is excellent on everything they build. I had less warm feelings from my experience with UPR stuff (but it did the job once I got it to fit).

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Roush goes with UCA only in it's wheel hop reduction kit:

 

http://www.roushperf...-2011-2012.html

 

Roush parts being sold as an assembly certainly looks like SPP offered upper bracket and an upper control arm. SPP description of the bracket was not enough to convince me that it was needed.

 

I ordered the Shelby LCA and relocation brackets with an adjustable UCA.

 

Just waiting for parts to come and then go to the Ford dealer for the new bolts and nuts. I installed the L&M Billet LCA won at Dearborn 2008 and fasteners were $60. Dealer sure makes out.

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Just waiting for parts to come and then go to the Ford dealer for the new bolts and nuts. I installed the L&M Billet LCA won at Dearborn 2008 and fasteners were $60. Dealer sure makes out.

 

 

 

You don't need to go to the dealer to get new bolts. The reason they are "one-time use" is because they come with pre-applied lock-tite on them and you remove it when you remove the bolt. Go get a tube of blue lock-tite and save yourself 55 bucks.

 

That applies to ALL of Ford's "one-time use" bolts, including the front suspension.

 

I still have ALL of my OE bolts on my car, and NONE of my OE suspension pieces (front and rear).

 

 

Phill

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I had Shelby American do my anti-hop upgrade, with already having had the Ford Tuned Racing suspension package, have widened 20" SS alcoa's with 305's and advertised 800hp. The Shelby speed shop there in Vegas does a great job and I have had zero wheel hop, and do get amazing hook-up for the most part. Of course I can fry my tires when ever I wish, but with some finese, I am very impressed with the traction. Plus, it is all Shelby done by Shelby!

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