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Noisy fuel pump on new 2012?


Boidster

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So I finally took delivery of my 2012 GT500 today. Thankfully the only shipping "damage" was some dirt on the floor mats and a small scuff on the black plastic door sill trim. I can live with that.

 

Unfortunately, when I started the car, it sounded like there was a tiny jackhammer in the back seat. I'm pretty sure it was the fuel pump - the noise sounded the same as the short "RRRRRRRT" you get when you first turn the key to "on" (before starting), though possibly it was louder after the engine had started. Noise was present whether parked or driving, and topped when the ignition was turned off. It also went away after a couple of miles of driving, but came back after I had stopped (and shut off) for a few minutes. A few miles after that, the noise went away again. Last stop was my garage so I didn't test it again yet.

 

Car drove fine (mostly; see my other thread) with and without the noise. Temp was about 40 degrees, if that should matter.

 

I saw a couple of threads about bad fuel pumps in 2011s. Does this sound like the right symptoms? I can't think of what else would be in the back seat/trunk area to make a loud electric motor/pump like noise...

 

Thanks for any advice.

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I had the same issue... but I got rid of the car... lol! It was the fuel pump... In order for them to change out the fuel pump, they would have to rip out the backseats... I couldn’t stand the thought of some greasy tech ripping apart my new car...

 

 

"Ripping out the rear seat" involves pushing two tabs under the front edge of the seat and lifting the seat bottom out.

 

Then there's a rubber cover that pulls right out to access the fuel pump access hat.

 

It takes all of about 10 minutes to replace a fuel pump, including R&R the rear seat bottom.

 

I wish it had been that easy when *I* was in the field! On some MY Camaro & Firebirds I had to REMOVE the complete rear axle assembly, just to be able to drop the gas tank just so I could GET TO the fuel pump access door! 7-8 hours to replace a fuel pump! (IN......SANE!).

 

 

Phill

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"Ripping out the rear seat" involves pushing two tabs under the front edge of the seat and lifting the seat bottom out.

 

Then there's a rubber cover that pulls right out to access the fuel pump access hat.

 

It takes all of about 10 minutes to replace a fuel pump, including R&R the rear seat bottom.

 

I wish it had been that easy when *I* was in the field! On some MY Camaro & Firebirds I had to REMOVE the complete rear axle assembly, just to be able to drop the gas tank just so I could GET TO the fuel pump access door! 7-8 hours to replace a fuel pump! (IN......SANE!).

 

 

Phill

 

I don't care if it takes someone 10 min or 8 hours for that matter... The greasy tech that’s having a shitty day at work won’t care about your car... It will end up with oil stains, scratch up leather & plastics while he's crawling in and out of your car…. Then comes the test ride when they take your car our for a beating while smoking a cigarette! No thanks! lol... I hear horror stories all the time and have experienced it 1st hand!

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LOL I was pretty happy to be doing so well as to be able to afford the new car. I've got a ways to go before I can afford to jettison it due to a problem under warranty! I'm right there with you on not really liking service techs messing about in my car, but I gotta keep the car so I'll have to let them in. :-)

 

Drove around for a couple hours today - fuel pump was quiet, but SC activation (AKA flooring it) just causes the engine to sputter and hesitate. Hoping it's bad gas (almost done with first tank, which was 1/2 old gas and 1/2 fresh), but weak fuel pump could probably cause the same symptom. Or clogged filter, but the car had 6 miles on it when I bought it, so...maybe they poured actual dirt into the tank?

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I'll keep that in mind, but since the only symptom occurred under hard acceleration/SC boost, it's difficult to troubleshoot - or even know if it's fixed - without accelerating hard. I'm not driving around mashing the pedal and crossing my fingers. Since I noticed the underperformance I've been trying different conditions - gears, speeds, car warm, car cold, etc. - so I can tell a complete story to the service tech.

 

Anyway, it's moot now. Car threw code P0191 tonight right after starting. So, not really a big mystery any more. Thanks everyone for the help.

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For some reason I kept this issue going in this thread, about my stalling problem: http://www.teamshelb...-highway-speed/

 

Long and short of it - dealer is replacing driver's side fuel pump. Will report results in that other thread.

 

 

With your symptoms and DTC, i's a pretty safe assumption that your fuel pump was bad.

 

 

Looking forward to the results,

Phill

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