TheKurgan Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 There are plenty of 4.6 and 5.4's that make the same sound. I've been chasing it in my car for about 30K. It's something in the heads. I know it's in the heads because I swapped out the shortblock in my car for a 302 stroker and the noise didn't go away. It does not seem to cause any issues though and I quit worrying about it. Things I can tell you it is not because I have replaced them: Lash adjusters Phasers VCT housing/solenoids Injectors Chain tensioners Timing chains Shortblock Clutch/flywheel Intake manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racephan Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 There are plenty of 4.6 and 5.4's that make the same sound. I've been chasing it in my car for about 30K. It's something in the heads. I know it's in the heads because I swapped out the shortblock in my car for a 302 stroker and the noise didn't go away. It does not seem to cause any issues though and I quit worrying about it. Things I can tell you it is not because I have replaced them: Lash adjusters Phasers VCT housing/solenoids Injectors Chain tensioners Timing chains Shortblock Clutch/flywheel Intake manifold Yes, I kind wished it was up high on the engine, but it is not. The 5.0 has a "tick" issue related to cam tensioners...I could live with that. But my issue is no doubt a bottom end issue. Possible wrist pin or crank shaft related. In fact, when I raise the RPM's the engine feels rough or out of round...Like I said I am done! in the past I had a 2001 SVT Lightning that blew spark plugs out of the heads, a 2004 Mach 1 that developed the famous engine tick after the 1st oil change, a 2004 F150 that had serious driveline vibrations, I traded this on a 2006 F150 only to have the same issue. Oh wait, this one leaked water into the cabin from 2 different spots. Now, the 2011 is the worst so far...Honestly, I am breathing a sigh of relief, not owning any more Fords. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Yes, I kind wished it was up high on the engine, but it is not. The 5.0 has a "tick" issue related to cam tensioners...I could live with that. But my issue is no doubt a bottom end issue. Possible wrist pin or crank shaft related. In fact, when I raise the RPM's the engine feels rough or out of round...Like I said I am done! in the past I had a 2001 SVT Lightning that blew spark plugs out of the heads, a 2004 Mach 1 that developed the famous engine tick after the 1st oil change, a 2004 F150 that had serious driveline vibrations, I traded this on a 2006 F150 only to have the same issue. Oh wait, this one leaked water into the cabin from 2 different spots. Now, the 2011 is the worst so far...Honestly, I am breathing a sigh of relief, not owning any more Fords. Sorry. I can hear the noise best inside the car. Here's a video I took a while back. Does yours sound like this ? You can hear it best right at the end of the video... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 ...Honestly, I am breathing a sigh of relief, not owning any more Fords. Sorry. Sorry to hear of your issues - hope you don't experience similar or worse problems with the next brand you choose, because problems are always out there with something. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMORINE Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I absolutely agree. The heads are limiting but can be improved. I thought I read somewhere that the 3V head flow as much as the early Gen 4V. All I was trying say is the 3V can be a contender with the right mix of mods. I would love to see a N/A 3V make 500hp. Heck, there are twin turbo 2V's making 1000hp so in many cases the only real limit to any of these motors is your wallet. most certainly. our blocks can withstand up to 1600hp. ive read about a few special prepped 3v's that have made over 2000 but those were pure drag cars that got rebuilds after so many runs. the 3v heads flow around 295-308 cfm on the intake with a proper port job and oversized valves. the coyotes from what ive read start at 298 and with proper porting can go over 330 cfm. it always comes down to money. with the right mods and the proper application of boost the 3v can make just as much power as the coyotes. just takes a little more effort. basicaly the coyote is just a more advanced motor. i still think the 3v sounds better then the coyotes. the coyotes have that 4 valve burble to them. with any luck i'll get my motor put together this year. i have parts laying around ready for it just been held back by college. engineering classes take alot out of you. with any luck i'll drop the block off for machining in about 2 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nojoke4true Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I can hear the noise best inside the car. Here's a video I took a while back. Does yours sound like this ? You can hear it best right at the end of the video... Only thing I hear is the sound of a beast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nojoke4true Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 yes...i been there done that. That TSB applies to cars built prior to 2/11 Mine has the updated AC tentioner. So, that is not it. Also, the tick sound is entirely different problem related to cam tensioners. This will most likely rear its ugly head soon as well. Also, I have the moaning/buzzing sound now as well. This is the water pump going bad. Many have had this replaced, only t have the new pump go bad in a few thousand miles. This is the biggest POS I ever bought. It goes away on Friday. Good Bye Ford. Thank God.! Im with you. Had to get rid of my 2003 harley F-150 because it started spiting spark plugs out and of cause Ford Moto CO knows but chooses to do nothing about the 5.4 doing this. So bye bye it went :angry2: I was planning on keeping it for life...but ford proved it didn't give a rats ass so I bought Japanese. Just hope I don't have any major issues with my shelby or she'll go bye bye too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 SWAPPING WOULD DESTROY ANY POSSIBLE COLLECTORS VALUE FOR THE FUTURE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpow96 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 SWAPPING WOULD DESTROY ANY POSSIBLE COLLECTORS VALUE FOR THE FUTURE. Not if you keep everything you take off the car... like I'm sure most of us are doing. But as the famous quote says as it applies to future collector values, "In the long term we are all dead." -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 SWAPPING WOULD DESTROY ANY POSSIBLE COLLECTORS VALUE FOR THE FUTURE. if you bought the car for future collectors value you are in the wrong hobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matts Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 if you bought the car for future collectors value you are in the wrong hobby Exactly. you bought a car not a painting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 if you bought the car for future collectors value you are in the wrong hobby +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 first year FR Aluminator 4.6 3V SB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
young768 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Exactly. you bought a car not a painting Paintings don't appreciate either. If there is a market for something then it will return a value. Although I did not buy mine thinking it would be worth X dollars by Y time, I am not sure how anyone can also predict that it won't. Enjoy your car for the reasons you bought it! If you drive it every day or if it is a garage queen that has not seen the light of day in two years, thats your decision, enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 To answer the original question YES- I've been considering the 5.0 swap I'm not loving the 10+ body style, new dash & interior compared to the original S197, so I'm more then content with the SGT VS the Boss I thought I had to have My SGT is very nuetral on the track (open course) with almost 50/50 weight bias, so I'm only considering swapping in a 5.0 for the added HP VS the added nose weight that a S/C adds to the 4.6L. But if street driving and not much track is what your doing, I agree the S/C on the 4.6 is plenty, and plenty fun IMO- 400 to 500rwhp is all that is really usuable for in this chassis, unless your suspension is set up for drag racing, then you've ruined the handling of the the car for any other driving.. All things are still in play- I'm still considering the following 4.6L options VS the 5.0 Installing the FRPP Upgrade kit - heads, cams & intake or Installing a Edlebrock- E-force ---------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpow96 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 To answer the original question YES- I've been considering the 5.0 swap I'm not loving the 10+ body style, new dash & interior compared to the original S197, so I'm more then content with the SGT VS the Boss I thought I had to have My SGT is very nuetral on the track (open course) with almost 50/50 weight bias, so I'm only considering swapping in a 5.0 for the added HP VS the added nose weight that a S/C adds to the 4.6L. But if street driving and not much track is what your doing, I agree the S/C on the 4.6 is plenty, and plenty fun IMO- 400 to 500rwhp is all that is really usuable for in this chassis, unless your suspension is set up for drag racing, then you've ruined the handling of the the car for any other driving.. All things are still in play- I'm still considering the following 4.6L options VS the 5.0 Installing the FRPP Upgrade kit - heads, cams & intake or Installing a Edlebrock- E-force ---------------------------- Kerry, you do bring up some interesting questions. About the 50/50 weight bias, since I've seen the stock mustang specs at about 53/47, is there somethng specific you have done to get it closer to that? I too seek that mythical balance, and the only relatively simple ways to alter this is by moving the battery to the trunk (or a lighter weight one, aka Braille) and through the A/C delete. More significant mods would disqualify me from my desired autox class. I compared the weight between the 4.6L hot rod crate engine (435 lbs dressed) versus the crate 5.0 engine (444 lbs, not including the alternator and power steering). Note that the current 2012 FR Parts catalog has a very distinct lack of 4.6L 3V aluminator crate engine/shortblock products. But the 5.0 has now assumed the aluminator moniker. So it is clear where Ford is going with the future for those of us considering built 3V engines. Also, the Canadiens get plenty of credit based on the Maple Leafs they show. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Tom, I replaced the OEM batery with a Braille but it's still in the stock location. Other mods on the car that you may not be able to do, are a (lighter) Recaro drivers seat, 1-piece aluminum Spydershaft driveline and Griggs rear ST kit and torque arm which adds weight to the lower back of the car (which is a good place if have to add it). The rear ST coil over kit allows the rear height to be set lower then stock which benefits the rear weight on the back axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpow96 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Tom, I replaced the OEM batery with a Braille but it's still in the stock location. Other mods on the car that you may not be able to do, are a (lighter) Recaro drivers seat, 1-piece aluminum Spydershaft driveline and Griggs rear ST kit and torque arm which adds weight to the lower back of the car (which is a good place if have to add it). The rear ST coil over kit allows the rear height to be set lower then stock which benefits the rear weight on the back axle. Kerry... good info, thanks. Which Braille battery do you use? Already have lighter seats in the works, but not sure if it helps towards the 50/50 bias, but less weight is always a good thing. Aluminum driveshaft is not allowed, but the Griggs setup should be. I'll look into that. Back on topic: does anyone know how a 5.0 swap would affect the SGT power steering setup? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 The stock battery is pretty light. I've picked up one of the braile batteries and it really didn't feel all that lighter. Anyone know what the weight difference is ? As soon as I get the money together I'm going to get one of the Driveshaft Shop's carbon fiber drive shafts. http://www.driveshaf...iber-driveshaft Expensive, but definitely top of the line as far as DS goes. Also a good read on the history of the S197 drive shaft dilemma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I guess it all depends on what you consider 'potential'. The BOSS with its massaged heads, and fortified internals has made over 800 blown HP. The right combination with a 3V could do the same. N/A, I cannot see why a 5.0L 3V with the right combination could not produce the same power and RPM as the stock BOSS. Bottom line is don't discount the 3V. It still has plenty of room for power. My 3V makes 395 RWHP, NA. You can figuare that out from there. BTW, my 3V is a 5.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMORINE Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 My 3V makes 395 RWHP, NA. You can figuare that out from there. BTW, my 3V is a 5.0 rpm? compression? what intake? what heads did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Paintings don't appreciate either. If there is a market for something then it will return a value. Although I did not buy mine thinking it would be worth X dollars by Y time, I am not sure how anyone can also predict that it won't. Enjoy your car for the reasons you bought it! If you drive it every day or if it is a garage queen that has not seen the light of day in two years, thats your decision, enjoy it! DRIVE it like you Stole it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Kerry... good info, thanks. Which Braille battery do you use? -Tom 10lbs lighter then OEM Motorcraft and 15lbs lighter then Optimum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Kerry... good info, thanks. Which Braille battery do you use? Already have lighter seats in the works, but not sure if it helps towards the 50/50 bias, but less weight is always a good thing. Aluminum driveshaft is not allowed, but the Griggs setup should be. I'll look into that. Back on topic: does anyone know how a 5.0 swap would affect the SGT power steering setup? -Tom putting the 5.4 would be a better idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 "10lbs lighter then OEM Motorcraft and 15lbs lighter then Optimum" Looks a bit odd. But when lighter weight is the goal the appearance factor is not an issue. PS: I like the hood struts! PSS: What is the deal with the 2001 Stage 3 vert? Is the Roush show car still around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 "10lbs lighter then OEM Motorcraft and 15lbs lighter then Optimum" Looks a bit odd. But when lighter weight is the goal the appearance factor is not an issue. PS: I like the hood struts! PSS: What is the deal with the 2001 Stage 3 vert? Is the Roush show car still around? I have a battery cover and master cyl cover left over from the prevouis Roush I use when not prepping for the track. The '06 is not around anymore- DOA - you need to come around sometime and I'll update you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted February 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 putting the 5.4 would be a better idea I can always drop in a 427 side oiler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 I have a battery cover and master cyl cover left over from the prevouis Roush I use when not prepping for the track. The '06 is not around anymore- DOA - you need to come around sometime and I'll update you Cool...but not cool on the show car Roush. I'll give you a call tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFan1 Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 putting the 5.4 would be a better idea 5.4 guys just don't get it that is until they hit the twisties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 5.4 guys just don't get it that is until they hit the twisties LOL, I didn't want to have to say it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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