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Well, I guess this answers the 2007-2009 functional hood question......................


Robert M

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I'm confused on this as well. Do the hoods for 2010 and up SS have these 4 holes in them? Or is it completely closed off now? Was it these 4 holes that caused those engine stalling problems? Or was an earlier SS hood completely open there like aftermarket ones?

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I'm confused on this as well. Do the hoods for 2010 and up SS have these 4 holes in them? Or is it completely closed off now? Was it these 4 holes that caused those engine stalling problems? Or was an earlier SS hood completely open there like aftermarket ones?

 

 

The original Super Snake hood was functional in two ways..............Cold Air Intake and Heat Extraction. The earliest of the SS hoods created a stalling issue on the cold air functionality side, that was later resolved on the 2007-2009 hood. 2010-up has no cold air functionality (blocked off) through the front of the hood but does still have the heat extraction function through the louvers on top. Opening up the 2010-up front scoop area (4 holes) adds more air flow "front to rear" under the hood to aid in heat extraction, but does not direct/duct cooler outside air to the air filter in the front corner of the engine compartment. So opening up the 2010 SS hood in the scoop area does make it functional, but not like the CAI of the 2007-2009 hoods. <<This being said, getting the heat out is always a plus!

 

 

 

R

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The original Super Snake hood was functional in two ways..............Cold Air Intake and Heat Extraction. The earliest of the SS hoods created a stalling issue on the cold air functionality side, that was later resolved on the 2007-2009 hood. 2010-up has no cold air functionality (blocked off) through the front of the hood but does still have the heat extraction function through the louvers on top. Opening up the 2010-up front scoop area (4 holes) adds more air flow "front to rear" under the hood to aid in heat extraction, but does not direct/duct cooler outside air to the air filter in the front corner of the engine compartment. So opening up the 2010 SS hood in the scoop area does make it functional, but not like the CAI of the 2007-2009 hoods. <<This being said, getting the heat out is always a plus!

 

 

 

R

 

I see so then the earlier hoods have the pathway for the air to go to the CAI like on all aftermarket hoods when you look underneath them?

 

In the video posted though with the super snake hood with the 4 holes I did not see a pathway like that at all. So if I put the 4 holes myself would it essentially be the same? I feel that hood needs at least the 4 holes because all the air going into that part is just getting stuck there causing drag. If it at least has holes there is somewhere for the air to go instead of around.

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I see so then the earlier hoods have the pathway for the air to go to the CAI like on all aftermarket hoods when you look underneath them?

 

In the video posted though with the super snake hood with the 4 holes I did not see a pathway like that at all. So if I put the 4 holes myself would it essentially be the same? I feel that hood needs at least the 4 holes because all the air going into that part is just getting stuck there causing drag. If it at least has holes there is somewhere for the air to go instead of around.

 

Yes on th earlier pathway.

 

I agree with the addition of the holes.

 

 

 

 

R

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Hi guys. So for a 2007-2009 supersnake hood currently shipping from SPP, the 4 holes can be drilled in the underside of the hood in the area above the radiator to allow cool air into the engine compartment? In other words, if I buy an 07-09 SS hood today from Shelby today, can I drill those 4 holes just like in the video to allow cool air into the engine bay? Understood that the ram air function is lost.... Just want to be sure I understand, thanks!

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Yes on th earlier pathway.

 

I agree with the addition of the holes.

 

 

 

 

R

 

So if they got rid of that because of the stalling effect shouldn't every aftermarket SS hood have this issue? And shouldn't it be some epidemic problem?

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So if they got rid of that because of the stalling effect shouldn't every aftermarket SS hood have this issue? And shouldn't it be some epidemic problem?

 

 

No, a baffle was added to the earlier 2007-2009 hoods to "fix" the stalling problem. The later 2007-2009 CAI functional hoods had this baffle incorperated into their design. I have added pictures of all of these changes, somewhere on this forum. The original CAI hood had one big opening over the air filter, then there was a baffle with multiple holes that attached over the big opening on the bottom of the hood CAI outlet (a fix for the first design problem). Then the next generations of hoods came with this multi hole baffle incorperated into them (molded into the fiberglass).

 

 

As for the other brands of CAI hoods? I don't know the CAI outlet positioning, I'm sure it matters for better or lesser functionality? Have owners made pulls as the white Super Snake owner did in south Fla. where we saw a video of this problem occur?

 

 

 

R

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No, a baffle was added to the earlier 2007-2009 hoods to "fix" the stalling problem. The later 2007-2009 CAI functional hoods had this baffle incorperated into their design. I have added pictures of all of these changes, somewhere on this forum. The original CAI hood had one big opening over the air filter, then there was a baffle with multiple holes that attached over the big opening on the bottom of the hood CAI outlet (a fix for the first design problem). Then the next generations of hoods came with this multi hole baffle incorperated into them (molded into the fiberglass).

 

 

As for the other brands of CAI hoods? I don't know the CAI outlet positioning, I'm sure it matters for better or lesser functionality? Have owners made pulls as the white Super Snake owner did in south Fla. where we saw a video of this problem occur?

 

 

 

R

 

 

Now you lost me. Take a look at this picture http://www.trucarbon.net/Trucarbon_Mustang_Carbon_Fiber_A53KR_Ram_Air_Hood_p/tc10025-a53kr.htm. Click on the pictures of the hood for the one where the hood is up. Look at the right side you will see a hole with a pathway to direct air to the CAI. Is this what the super snake hoods had that fixed the problem or is this what they had in the original design?

 

These hoods were all copied off a super snake hood but I don't know which one they copied off of.

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So if they got rid of that because of the stalling effect shouldn't every aftermarket SS hood have this issue? And shouldn't it be some epidemic problem?

 

 

If the "scoop" function of the Shelby hood is greater than other aftermarket hoods, it would make a difference. In other words, if the Shelby hood is catching more air than the tru-fiber, that could be your answer.

 

OR...the inlet holes on the Shelby hood may allow more air to be injested than the other hoods.

 

I can sit here and speculate all day long.

 

The FACT is, there was a problem with the Shelby hood "blowing out the candle" and they fixed it with baffles and later just closed it off.

 

That may or may not mean the other hood scoops are useless (because they apparently weren't having the problem).

 

 

Phill

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If the "scoop" function of the Shelby hood is greater than other aftermarket hoods, it would make a difference. In other words, if the Shelby hood is catching more air than the tru-fiber, that could be your answer.

 

OR...the inlet holes on the Shelby hood may allow more air to be injested than the other hoods.

 

I can sit here and speculate all day long.

 

The FACT is, there was a problem with the Shelby hood "blowing out the candle" and they fixed it with baffles and later just closed it off.

 

That may or may not mean the other hood scoops are useless (because they apparently weren't having the problem).

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

And another question............."if" an aftermarket hood maker has a problem with air flow, would they admit it, or turn it back to "the owners problem?". Shelby is an automobile builder who has to stand behind their packaged product. "If" there is an issue that was not found during initial testing they have to resolve the problem "after the fact", as they did with the Super Snake hood. What extensive testing does an aftermarket hood maker do? We know they copied the hood for sales purposes, but what test results have they accumulated through their extensive testing? Any?

 

I think (but am not positive) that the Tru-fiber CAI opening is further back and not directly above the CAI filter. Of course dumping the air directly above the air filter is going to give the best CAI, and dumping if further back is much less effective, but we also know that dumping that massive amount of high speed CAI air over the air filter requires baffling. Dumping it further back most likely would not as much of that CAI air would be caught up in the heat extraction air stream, since these CAI's are not completely sealed to the hood bottom.

 

I would really need to see the bottoms side-by-side and compare opening positions.

 

 

 

R

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I doubt trufiber or BMC did any testing with their hoods. So then y did Shelby completely seal it off? What's wrong with the 4 holes?

 

Another thing I am wondering is what happens when it rains? Does water leak through the heat extractors and onto the battery?

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I doubt trufiber or BMC did any testing with their hoods. So then y did Shelby completely seal it off? What's wrong with the 4 holes?

 

Another thing I am wondering is what happens when it rains? Does water leak through the heat extractors and onto the battery?

 

 

I think it is water entry that is the answer to your first two questions, this would happen with any hood that is open front and/or top and does not have water ducting on the bottom side. I believe that Shelby has found that the solution is to incorperate the 2010 Super Snake CAI design into the 2007-2009 production Super Snakes, that is just my guess? and I think the more sloping hood of the 2010-up is why the CAI duct was first eliminated.....?

 

One drawback with the water ducting on the bottom of the hood..........it minimizes the space for a larger blower upgrade.

 

When I look through my heat extractors, I can see the top of my engine, fuel rails, valve covers, S/C etc. so any water or rain will go right into those areas with this type of hood.

 

 

R

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I think it is water entry that is the answer to your first two questions, this would happen with any hood that is open front and/or top and does not have water ducting on the bottom side. I believe that Shelby has found that the solution is to incorperate the 2010 Super Snake CAI design into the 2007-2009 production Super Snakes, that is just my guess? and I think the more sloping hood of the 2010-up is why the CAI duct was first eliminated.....?

 

One drawback with the water ducting on the bottom of the hood..........it minimizes the space for a larger blower upgrade.

 

When I look through my heat extractors, I can see the top of my engine, fuel rails, valve covers, S/C etc. so any water or rain will go right into those areas with this type of hood.

 

 

R

 

 

So then if someone drives their car in rain then a super snake hood would not be a good idea? I know with aftermarket ones the vents are flat but with actual super snake ones the vents are angled. I thought maybe the angle was for the rain part.

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So then if someone drives their car in rain then a super snake hood would not be a good idea? I know with aftermarket ones the vents are flat but with actual super snake ones the vents are angled. I thought maybe the angle was for the rain part.

 

 

I think the angle is more for directing the under hood hot air into the over the hood air flow.

 

 

The rain may not enter as much when you are rolling down the road, but when you stop, the rain will follow the angles right down into the engine compartment.

 

 

 

R

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I think it is water entry that is the answer to your first two questions, this would happen with any hood that is open front and/or top and does not have water ducting on the bottom side. I believe that Shelby has found that the solution is to incorperate the 2010 Super Snake CAI design into the 2007-2009 production Super Snakes, that is just my guess? and I think the more sloping hood of the 2010-up is why the CAI duct was first eliminated.....?

 

One drawback with the water ducting on the bottom of the hood..........it minimizes the space for a larger blower upgrade.

 

When I look through my heat extractors, I can see the top of my engine, fuel rails, valve covers, S/C etc. so any water or rain will go right into those areas with this type of hood.

 

 

R

 

I know Chevy and Ford both had Ram Air figured out in the 60's/70's but not sure with SC applications? Seems like the same principles could work with modern SC engines?
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I know Chevy and Ford both had Ram Air figured out in the 60's/70's but not sure with SC applications? Seems like the same principles could work with modern SC engines?

 

 

The old Pontiac Ram Air hoods (70-73) had snorkels facing forward directly into the wind. Testing showed that the "bulge" of air in front of the car created from the blunt front end would direct rain water up and over the snorkles/intakes/openings but air was lighter so it used the ram effect of the forward facing openings to force air into the intake (air cleaner)..

 

Chevy used to use the high pressure area at the base of the windshield for their cowl induction openings to force air into the air filter/box, which is why they were at the BACK of the hood instead of the front...To take advantage of the hi press area created by the bend at the hood and windshield.

 

Water wouldn't reverse direction (again, due to the heavier weight) so no water got into the Chevy intake either.

 

There's a reason mechanical engineers make the big bucks at the Auto mfgr's!

 

 

Phill

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The old Pontiac Ram Air hoods (70-73) had snorkels facing forward directly into the wind. Testing showed that the "bulge" of air in front of the car created from the blunt front end would direct rain water up and over the snorkles/intakes/openings but air was lighter so it used the ram effect of the forward facing openings to force air into the intake (air cleaner)..

 

Chevy used to use the high pressure area at the base of the windshield for their cowl induction openings to force air into the air filter/box, which is why they were at the BACK of the hood instead of the front...To take advantage of the hi press area created by the bend at the hood and windshield.

 

Water wouldn't reverse direction (again, due to the heavier weight) so no water got into the Chevy intake either.

 

There's a reason mechanical engineers make the big bucks at the Auto mfgr's!

 

 

Phill

 

If you look at the old air cleaner housings on the ram air cars, there were low areas and drain hoses for rain water. Many/most of these ram air set ups had vacuum actuated doors and were not open all of the time. It took a drop in intake vacuum to open the door, like stepping into the throttle which would not be normal while driving in the rain.

 

The bottom side of the GT500KR hood has ducting for water, but as I mentioned, that ducting on the bottom side of the hood takes up space, space that could be used for a bigger blower.

 

 

GT500KR_UnderHood.jpg

 

 

 

R

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I think the angle is more for directing the under hood hot air into the over the hood air flow.

 

 

The rain may not enter as much when you are rolling down the road, but when you stop, the rain will follow the angles right down into the engine compartment.

 

 

 

R

 

 

Ok so then if the rain follows those angles down into the engine compartment are they landing on anything important? For example on the stock hood when rain goes into the heat extractor it simply falls onto the coolant tanks so thats ok. But will rain on the super snake hoods fall onto something important?

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Ok so then if the rain follows those angles down into the engine compartment are they landing on anything important? For example on the stock hood when rain goes into the heat extractor it simply falls onto the coolant tanks so thats ok. But will rain on the super snake hoods fall onto something important?

 

 

My post #44 above, last sentence outlines everything that I can see directly below my heat extractor louvers when looking through them from the outside of the hood.

 

 

R

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"When I look through my heat extractors, I can see the top of my engine, fuel rails, valve covers, S/C etc. so any water or rain will go right into those areas with this type of hood."

 

So is it dangerous for water to touch these places?

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"When I look through my heat extractors, I can see the top of my engine, fuel rails, valve covers, S/C etc. so any water or rain will go right into those areas with this type of hood."

 

So is it dangerous for water to touch these places?

 

 

 

I don't think there is danger, unless water got into an underhood connector or something where it should not be. My main concern for my car would be water making a mess of any unpainted or uncoated metal or aluminum surface that would quickly rust or oxidize when exposed to water. <<Those are just my thoughts.

 

 

 

R

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Can you think of any? Do you drive your car out on rainy days?

 

I was thinking to cover the battery and the brake fluid I think it is to get the bangastang covers.

 

No my car does not go out when there is a chance of rain, it does the car show thing. It is not a big deal with the water as far as I know except for rust and oxidation. If I did get caught in rain, I would probably blow off the engine with compressed air when I got home. Of course much of the water would evaporate from the engine heat........

 

There are sooooo many nooks and crannys where water can just sit.

 

Let's face it, if you drive in the rain, the amount of water that comes through the radiator and into the engine compartment will be great, so a water coming in through the heat extractors is not going to be a big deal, it is part of driving in the rain.

 

 

 

R

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No my car does not go out when there is a chance of rain, it does the car show thing. It is not a big deal with the water as far as I know except for rust and oxidation. If I did get caught in rain, I would probably blow off the engine with compressed air when I got home. Of course much of the water would evaporate from the engine heat........

 

There are sooooo many nooks and crannys where water can just sit.

 

Let's face it, if you drive in the rain, the amount of water that comes through the radiator and into the engine compartment will be great, so a water coming in through the heat extractors is not going to be a big deal, it is part of driving in the rain.

 

 

 

R

 

 

Really? I have gotten caught in the rain with my car a few times, granted the heat exchanger gets wet but thats about it. The rest of the engine bay is completely clean. Actually the very sides under the hood get some water drop marks but no water gets on anything else.

 

I just thought the left heat extractor was angled right over the battery. So that worried me. The other one is over the brake fluid if I'm not mistaken. But if you say that doesn't happen then I guess I'll put getting an SS hood back on the table.

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I don't think there is danger, unless water got into an underhood connector or something where it should not be. My main concern for my car would be water making a mess of any unpainted or uncoated metal or aluminum surface that would quickly rust or oxidize when exposed to water. <<Those are just my thoughts.

R

 

And just make sure your COP cover gaskets are all installed correctly.

 

I can't see H2O hurting anything else under there other than the ign. coils (and only because they are recessed).

 

 

Phill

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unless water got into an underhood connector

 

Robert,

 

ALL of the PCM connectors are "Weather-pak" connectors and hence are sealed from the elements. I think the injectors even have weather-pak connectors on them now-a-days.

 

And any non-PCM connectors aren't nearly as persnickity about resistence as PCM circuits are so I think he's pretty safe getting water under the hood, except for the COP covers as I said in my prior post.

 

@ svt13; Paranoia will destroy ya!

 

 

Phill

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I just thought the left heat extractor was angled right over the battery. So that worried me.

 

 

Unless your battery has a leak (cracked case), clean rain water won't hurt anything. In fact, it'd help by keeping the surface clean so no voltage leak will occur due to dirt creating a conductive path.

 

You should be cleaning your battery (50% solution of baking soda & water) on a regular maintenance schedule anyway.

 

 

Phill

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