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GT350R TRIBUTE


JOJO

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HELLO ALL

 

I JUST PICKED UP 66 FASTBACK AND I WANT TO BUILD A GT350R.

IM IN BURBANK CA AND WANTED SOME DIRECTION.

I WAS REALLY HOPING TO LOOK AT ANOTHER GT350R TO SEE HOW ITS BUILT.

I NEED ALOT PARTS AND WOULD LOVE TO TALK TO SOMEONE WHOSE GONE THROUGH THIS TO

GIVE SOME IDEAS WITH EXTIOR/INTERIOR/SUSPENSION PARTS.

I COULD WRITE ALONG LETTER BUT DONT WANT BORE YOU GUYS.

YOU GUYS KINDA GOT AN IDEA WHAT I NEED.

 

LOVE TO GET SOME INPUT.

 

JOSEPI73@HOTMAIL.COM

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HELLO ALL

 

I JUST PICKED UP 66 FASTBACK AND I WANT TO BUILD A GT350R.

IM IN BURBANK CA AND WANTED SOME DIRECTION.

I WAS REALLY HOPING TO LOOK AT ANOTHER GT350R TO SEE HOW ITS BUILT.

I NEED ALOT PARTS AND WOULD LOVE TO TALK TO SOMEONE WHOSE GONE THROUGH THIS TO

GIVE SOME IDEAS WITH EXTIOR/INTERIOR/SUSPENSION PARTS.

I COULD WRITE ALONG LETTER BUT DONT WANT BORE YOU GUYS.

YOU GUYS KINDA GOT AN IDEA WHAT I NEED.

 

LOVE TO GET SOME INPUT.

 

JOSEPI73@HOTMAIL.COM

First I would like to say congrads! As a clone owner, even though mine is more of the street version, I can give you some info. I have done a lot of research on the 350s.

The GT350R had:

Side exhaust

Plexi glass rear window with vent gap along the intire top of it

Plexi side windows ( no window cranks, uses straps to roll up )

Early cars 65 did not have rear brake scoops for cooling, however big 10inch drums were used

Battery relocated into the trunk on the passenger side

Like the hood pins, a pin was used to hold the trunk lid down

Extra compacity gas tank 36 gallon with fuel cap Le Mans style with splash funnel mounted directly on to;p of the gas tank, so oen trunk to gas up

Stock gas cap delete, block off used to cover openeing

Drivers side round rotunda racinng mirror

Side exhaust exiting before the rear wheels on both sides

Shelby hood and R model style front apron

Both front and rear bumpers deleted

9 inch Detroit Locker rear end

15 inch American Racing rims Tourqe Thrust D's

Front A arms relocated 1 inch to lower the front end

Brake air ducts located on the front apron and plumed to cool the front rotors

350HP 289 Block paited Black, aluminum finned COBRA lettered valve covers

Shock tower to shock tower Monte Carlo bar and a one piece export brace

Funnel shaped plenum on to;p of carb instead of an air cleaner

Holly Carb believe to be a 715 cfm on Cobra Aluninum Manifold

Tri Y Headers

6 gauge bezel, shelby tach and oil gauge pod in the center of the dash

Dash pad is deleted

Radio delete

Shelby cobra wood steering wheel

Rear seat delete, replaced by fiberglas cover and spare wheel mounted on it

Fast back vent luvers were deleted and opening for the vent was covered by a vent shaped panel looks to be rivited on

3 inch wide racing seat belts " lap belts, no racing harnesses "

4 spd T 10 trans mission

65 grill was stock, minus the horse and corral, horse with tri bars was off set towards the drivers side, grill was painted gun metal grey

66 grill was horizontal kind of like the new billet style grills

Oh I almost forgot, me in the drivers seat! ha ha

Tony Branda sells most, if not all the parts

Good luck, post pics of your build

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First I would like to say congrads! As a clone owner, even though mine is more of the street version, I can give you some info. I have done a lot of research on the 350s.

The GT350R had:

Side exhaust

Plexi glass rear window with vent gap along the intire top of it

Plexi side windows ( no window cranks, uses straps to roll up )

Early cars 65 did not have rear brake scoops for cooling, however big 10inch drums were used

Battery relocated into the trunk on the passenger side

Like the hood pins, a pin was used to hold the trunk lid down

Extra compacity gas tank 36 gallon with fuel cap Le Mans style with splash funnel mounted directly on to;p of the gas tank, so oen trunk to gas up

Stock gas cap delete, block off used to cover openeing

Drivers side round rotunda racinng mirror

Side exhaust exiting before the rear wheels on both sides

Shelby hood and R model style front apron

Both front and rear bumpers deleted

9 inch Detroit Locker rear end

15 inch American Racing rims Tourqe Thrust D's

Front A arms relocated 1 inch to lower the front end

Brake air ducts located on the front apron and plumed to cool the front rotors

350HP 289 Block paited Black, aluminum finned COBRA lettered valve covers

Shock tower to shock tower Monte Carlo bar and a one piece export brace

Funnel shaped plenum on to;p of carb instead of an air cleaner

Holly Carb believe to be a 715 cfm on Cobra Aluninum Manifold

Tri Y Headers

6 gauge bezel, shelby tach and oil gauge pod in the center of the dash

Dash pad is deleted

Radio delete

Shelby cobra wood steering wheel

Rear seat delete, replaced by fiberglas cover and spare wheel mounted on it

Fast back vent luvers were deleted and opening for the vent was covered by a vent shaped panel looks to be rivited on

3 inch wide racing seat belts " lap belts, no racing harnesses "

4 spd T 10 trans mission

65 grill was stock, minus the horse and corral, horse with tri bars was off set towards the drivers side, grill was painted gun metal grey

66 grill was horizontal kind of like the new billet style grills

Oh I almost forgot, me in the drivers seat! ha ha

Tony Branda sells most, if not all the parts

Good luck, post pics of your build

 

 

and heater/defroster delete (some parts very hard to find).

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HELLO ALL

 

I JUST PICKED UP 66 FASTBACK AND I WANT TO BUILD A GT350R.

IM IN BURBANK CA AND WANTED SOME DIRECTION.

I WAS REALLY HOPING TO LOOK AT ANOTHER GT350R TO SEE HOW ITS BUILT.

I NEED ALOT PARTS AND WOULD LOVE TO TALK TO SOMEONE WHOSE GONE THROUGH THIS TO

GIVE SOME IDEAS WITH EXTIOR/INTERIOR/SUSPENSION PARTS.

I COULD WRITE ALONG LETTER BUT DONT WANT BORE YOU GUYS.

YOU GUYS KINDA GOT AN IDEA WHAT I NEED.

 

LOVE TO GET SOME INPUT.

 

JOSEPI73@HOTMAIL.COM

 

 

This is a great project but also an expensive one if you try to use 1965 specs. As another post stated, Branda Performance Parts has most of the parts you'll need, but many are not totally correct. It took me about 3 years to complete my GT-350-R clone and a lot of research. A super good source is Dr. John Crafts book "Mustang Race Cars" which covers many years of race cars including the build specs on the GT-350R and the Coupe race cars. A lot of fabrication will be required and a lot of patience, especially the install of the Lexan side windows. The side mirrors are usually Raydot but some cars now have other brands. The center dash gauge cluster was not used on the R models, as the 6 gauge race panel contained the tach etc. If you have any plans on racing the car in the HSR or similar vintage racing circuit you will need a good motor, a crate motor is nice, but a race motor from Cobra Automotive (www.Cobra Automotive.com) would be great. Cobra Automotive is the gold standard for vintage Mustang race cars and all of their parts have been thoroughly R & D tested. If you need any help sourcing the parts let me know via a PM. My car is about 95% correct and I hid most of the performance upgrades, like the MSD ignition, and the 415 HP Cobra Automotive roller motor (looks stock until you look close at the elevated valve covers). You will really love the completed car but look to pay around $15,000 for parts, LESS the drivetrain. Good luck, Larry PS, Cobra Automotive has a complete line of racing suspension and brake parts)

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This is a great project but also an expensive one if you try to use 1965 specs. As another post stated, Branda Performance Parts has most of the parts you'll need, but many are not totally correct. It took me about 3 years to complete my GT-350-R clone and a lot of research. A super good source is Dr. John Crafts book "Mustang Race Cars" which covers many years of race cars including the build specs on the GT-350R and the Coupe race cars. A lot of fabrication will be required and a lot of patience, especially the install of the Lexan side windows. The side mirrors are usually Raydot but some cars now have other brands. The center dash gauge cluster was not used on the R models, as the 6 gauge race panel contained the tach etc. If you have any plans on racing the car in the HSR or similar vintage racing circuit you will need a good motor, a crate motor is nice, but a race motor from Cobra Automotive (www.Cobra Automotive.com) would be great. Cobra Automotive is the gold standard for vintage Mustang race cars and all of their parts have been thoroughly R & D tested. If you need any help sourcing the parts let me know via a PM. My car is about 95% correct and I hid most of the performance upgrades, like the MSD ignition, and the 415 HP Cobra Automotive roller motor (looks stock until you look close at the elevated valve covers). You will really love the completed car but look to pay around $15,000 for parts, LESS the drivetrain. Good luck, Larry PS, Cobra Automotive has a complete line of racing suspension and brake parts)

 

You are right regarding the abscence of the center gauge pod. My car is more set up like the street version. My bad. Sounds like your the right guy for the info. Sounds sweet. Is your motor based on the Winsor block? Color? Do you have any pics of your car? I would love to have my car set up so it can go on the track, yet still for the street. At this time my car is a DD and I want to keep it that way. Even though I tell people it is a tribute, I still get the thumbs up. Life is good!

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THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.

IM NOT TRYING TO DUPLICATE THE CAR

TO THE T BUT I LOVE THE LOOK.

I DONT WANT TO TAKE THE FUN OUT OF THIS,

IM INTRESTED IN STRESS RELIEF.

I JUST WANTED TO ASK YOU GUYS WHERE IS

A GOOD PLACE TO BUY THE PARTS.

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You are right regarding the abscence of the center gauge pod. My car is more set up like the street version. My bad. Sounds like your the right guy for the info. Sounds sweet. Is your motor based on the Winsor block? Color? Do you have any pics of your car? I would love to have my car set up so it can go on the track, yet still for the street. At this time my car is a DD and I want to keep it that way. Even though I tell people it is a tribute, I still get the thumbs up. Life is good!

 

 

 

Cobra Automotive used a seasoned 302 OEM block and built the motor as a 331 roller motor. Everything from pan to carb is built for the rigors of on track yet the car can be street driven as it runs on 93 octane gas (preferably leaded). I run a straight exhaust which is loud but still ok if the police are a little reasonable, so far no tickets. If you plan on mild on- track use then a crate motor would be way cheaper, just not as reliable if you do serious continual racing. I'll take a few photos later today and try to post. A very enjoyable project, and the more you go in the R-model direction, the more the cost. I painted mine in traditional Wimbledon white with Guardsman blue stripes, vintage numbers and decals. good luck, Larry

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Cobra Automotive used a seasoned 302 OEM block and built the motor as a 331 roller motor. Everything from pan to carb is built for the rigors of on track yet the car can be street driven as it runs on 93 octane gas (preferably leaded). I run a straight exhaust which is loud but still ok if the police are a little reasonable, so far no tickets. If you plan on mild on- track use then a crate motor would be way cheaper, just not as reliable if you do serious continual racing. I'll take a few photos later today and try to post. A very enjoyable project, and the more you go in the R-model direction, the more the cost. I painted mine in traditional Wimbledon white with Guardsman blue stripes, vintage numbers and decals. good luck, Larry

 

Car sounds very cool. would love to see pictures.

 

Kris

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