Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

Check Engine Light PO127


mrfarmdog

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to trace down an issue that showed up a few months ago.

 

As many of you know every since I rebuilt my engine I have been running Torco. Well I was taking a trip to Dallas a while back and ran out of Torco on the way back but I think it is no big deal because I am running my 93 octane tune. A bit after the fill up I am driving along and think I hear detonation. I was getting this with my cruise control on running about 85 MPH. At that speed as your gas is adjusted to keep the speed the car will creep into boost and that was when I was hearing the noise. Well I make it back and drove around town and did not hear anything so I think it might just be some bad gas. I go to BP and fill up before I go to Shelbyfest, still not running Torco. On the trip up I hear the same thing. I called Lund and asked him about it. He suggested changing my plugs (it had been a while) and we backed out a couple of degrees of timing for good measure. I change out the plugs and ensure they are gapped right while at Shelbyfest and on the way back I hear it again. During both the Dallas and Shelbyfest trip I received some lean codes and an PO127 code which is high IA2 temps. Yesterday I had the same thing happen again so I took it to a local shop and monitored Short Term Fuel Trim (STFP) to see if may indicate an intake leak somewhere and everything was spot on. So at this point the only thing I can think of is the IA2 sensor is bad and that is causing my computer to lean out the engine. I went to an autoparts store and they said the factory sensor was "supersceded" by another part so I thought perhaps there was an issue with the factory sensors that would cause them to replace with another.

 

I am running Torco again as a safety measure but should not have to.

 

Anyone else have this issue?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After reading this thread it made me remember that my moroso tank had shown coolant boil over by spraying the Engine compartment. I think next steps are to check coolant flow.

 

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63885-help-from-those-with-725-hp-kenne-bellcoolant-upgrade-ss/page__p__1089234__hl__%2Bintercooler+%2Bpump+%2Bfailure__fromsearch__1#entry1089234

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After reading this thread it made me remember that my moroso tank had shown coolant boil over by spraying the Engine compartment. I think next steps are to check coolant flow.

 

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63885-help-from-those-with-725-hp-kenne-bellcoolant-upgrade-ss/page__p__1089234__hl__%2Bintercooler+%2Bpump+%2Bfailure__fromsearch__1#entry1089234

 

 

 

Farmdog

 

Save yourself some time and effort. Completely drain and vacate the cooling system and flush completely with a garden hose. (yes, I said a garden hose) You will have to do this even if your pump did fail partially because you have super heated the coolant in the system which means it has lost it's heat transfer properties. Because it has superheated it could also have created an air pocket that is continually traveling through the system.

 

BoneDoc and I worked on this problem on his Super Snake. When we finally got down to the step above, VOILA! Problem solved.

 

Flush the system fully and remove the existing fluids. You can always drain it and vacate the system with air and refill with new anti-freeze later however the water pressure from the hose technique is a quick and efficient means of flushing. I do not recommend that you leave the garden hose water in the intercooler and heat exchanger system without an additive. You can put a bottle of water wetter or Amsoil Dominator Coolant Booster in there but make sure to replace with anti-freeze when the Winter months arrive.

 

You might find that your pump is fine and it's the anti-freeze inside the cooling system as well as some small air pockets.

 

Van

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well today was one sweaty day in my garage trying to figure this out. Long story short... Talking with Van and walking through my hose configuration on my Moroso battery tank we discovered that my intercooler hoses were reversed. :banghead: In addition, the suction hose from my Moroso tank was connected to the top connection at the top of the tank so basically there was no chance for any circulation.

 

In order to reroute my hoses in the system I pulled the front bumper off the car which exposed all the hoses, etc. It made things much easier. I swapped out the intercooler hoses and then needed to determine if my pump was fried. Van sent me directions on how to hard wire my fans and pump which took all of about 5 minutes. Once I had that I opened my Moroso tank and found a piece of tygon tubing that I stuck through the opening of my Moroso tank and inserted it into the exit connection. It was a snug fit, which is what I wanted because I stuck the other end into an open water hose and really put the pressure to it. The hose burped the system. While I was doing this I installed the fuse that hardwired the pump so I could feel the pump making suction against the tube I was holding with the other hand. Once I had the flow running on its own (I could see it in the Moroso tank) I pulled the hose and verified I still had circulation in the tank (which I did).

 

Once that was done I buttoned everything up and took it for a test drive. The car feels strong! I will do some more testing tomorrow and try to do some data logging to verify everything looks normal.

 

A big thanks goes out to Van for his help! This is an issue that has plagued me for a while and I am optimistic that I have it sorted out now.

 

Van I owe you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well today was one sweaty day in my garage trying to figure this out. Long story short... Talking with Van and walking through my hose configuration on my Moroso battery tank we discovered that my intercooler hoses were reversed. :banghead: In addition, the suction hose from my Moroso tank was connected to the top connection at the top of the tank so basically there was no chance for any circulation.

 

In order to reroute my hoses in the system I pulled the front bumper off the car which exposed all the hoses, etc. It made things much easier. I swapped out the intercooler hoses and then needed to determine if my pump was fried. Van sent me directions on how to hard wire my fans and pump which took all of about 5 minutes. Once I had that I opened my Moroso tank and found a piece of tygon tubing that I stuck through the opening of my Moroso tank and inserted it into the exit connection. It was a snug fit, which is what I wanted because I stuck the other end into an open water hose and really put the pressure to it. The hose burped the system. While I was doing this I installed the fuse that hardwired the pump so I could feel the pump making suction against the tube I was holding with the other hand. Once I had the flow running on its own (I could see it in the Moroso tank) I pulled the hose and verified I still had circulation in the tank (which I did).

 

Once that was done I buttoned everything up and took it for a test drive. The car feels strong! I will do some more testing tomorrow and try to do some data logging to verify everything looks normal.

 

A big thanks goes out to Van for his help! This is an issue that has plagued me for a while and I am optimistic that I have it sorted out now.

 

Van I owe you!

 

 

 

Well done farmdog. Glad I could help and now that we have this taken care of................I still recommend you do the fuel filter change as well. Don't forget to log Fuel Pump Duty cycle and injector cycle and battery voltage in the data log along with IAT and IAT2. do a couple of 2 to 3 minute drive logs with a wot hit here and there and send them over. I'll see if there is anything going on. You still have a config file for logging?

 

Van

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...
...