KCMO-GT500 Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 sometimes a reminder of these things is good: Driving a manual performance car can be a challenge if the proper elements do not come together. Proper gearing in the transmission and rear end, matching flywheel weight, and driving style are essential. Extreme street cars will sacrifice some driveability to get the necessary holding capacity in a clutch system, and still work effectively at the race track. Several factors affect the life and durability of the clutch system. The key word is load; specifically the higher the load on the clutch the more likely it is to slip. Chassis Dynos Most people wouldn't think it, but the chassis dyno provides the single largest load you can place on your clutch system. There is no tire slip during the run and any lugging the engine at all can cause the clutch to slip. Your dyno time is more strenuous on your clutch system than actual passes at the drag strip. At the drag strip Here are a few suggestions for the drag strip that can greatly improve the life of your clutch system. On the burnout make sure the tires are wet but not in the water, and as the tires start to grab the pavement push the clutch in. Do not attempt to extend the burnout toward the tree. The point that the tires hook puts a heavy load on the clutch, especially in 3rd or 4th gear. Trying to drive on out will place a tremendous and unnecessary load on the clutch system. While it sounds so simple, make sure the car is in first gear before you leave the starting line. Leaving the line in 3rd gear will pretty much wipe out your clutch system. Checking up to be sure your in 1st gear prior to pre-staging can save your clutch system. 'Hot lapping' can put severe heat into the clutch. Some events require this, but try to avoid back to back consecutive runs without allowing the clutch time to cool down. Focus on making quality runs and not quantity. Hard starts and downshifting Hard launches on the street are usually not as hard on the clutch since the tires tend to spin, but still put a good load on the clutch. If you run a sticky tire that will bite on the street, then it is no different than at the race track, the clutch will be loaded harder and wear is going to be accelerated. Many drivers misunderstand downshifting. The clutch is not a brake. However, if you shift to a lower gear and let the pedal back out with no throttle, the resulting 'surge' you feel is loading the clutch braking the engine. This is extremely harmful to your clutch system and will greatly reduce its service life. Under this condition the clutch center hub is loaded very hard and can cause the drive center to break in extreme situations. The straps that retain the pressure ring on diaphragm clutches may also buckle under this severe strain. The proper method is to 'match' engine speeds on a downshift. To do this, add some throttle and raise the rpm's as you engage the clutch so the engine and driveline speeds are closer matched when the clutch engages. Avoid sharp downshifting. Match engine speed when it is appropriate to achieve optimum service life. The result is a smoother transition, which does not load the clutch and disc so hard. If you watch road racers using a clutch, you will see they do this all the time. With some practice you will be able to make the downshift without even feeling it. How long should a clutch last? It is nearly impossible to predict clutch life as everything including the driver will affect the service life. In a street vehicle that is raced often, track passes add up quickly. This will reduce the life of your clutch system for street use. To optimize service life it is a good idea to over clutch an application. Using too weak of clutch system will lead to premature clutch failure, whereas, over clutching your vehicle will allow to handle additional load you may want to place on your clutch system in the future. In full race vehicles it is common to see between 75 and 150 passes on a clutch system between rebuilds. An optimally tuned system might only get 30-40 passes between major servicing. Remember, to optimize your clutch system for the fastest run, the clutch operates on the very edge of slippage. Street driving an aggressive clutch system While not easy, it is possible to master smooth operation on the street with an aggressive clutch setup. The foundation is efficient rear and low gearing and adequate flywheel weight so that the minimal amount of slippage is required on takeoff to make a smooth transition. Experiment with different RPM levels and the amount of 'pedal' you give the clutch on engagement. Get it engaged as quickly as possible to avoid excessive wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraegar Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 sometimes a reminder of these things is good:Driving a manual performance car can be a challenge if the proper elements do not come together. Proper gearing in the transmission and rear end, matching flywheel weight, and driving style are essential. Extreme street cars will sacrifice some driveability to get the necessary holding capacity in a clutch system, and still work effectively at the race track. Several factors affect the life and durability of the clutch system. The key word is load; specifically the higher the load on the clutch the more likely it is to slip. Chassis Dynos Most people wouldn't think it, but the chassis dyno provides the single largest load you can place on your clutch system. There is no tire slip during the run and any lugging the engine at all can cause the clutch to slip. Your dyno time is more strenuous on your clutch system than actual passes at the drag strip. At the drag strip Here are a few suggestions for the drag strip that can greatly improve the life of your clutch system. On the burnout make sure the tires are wet but not in the water, and as the tires start to grab the pavement push the clutch in. Do not attempt to extend the burnout toward the tree. The point that the tires hook puts a heavy load on the clutch, especially in 3rd or 4th gear. Trying to drive on out will place a tremendous and unnecessary load on the clutch system. While it sounds so simple, make sure the car is in first gear before you leave the starting line. Leaving the line in 3rd gear will pretty much wipe out your clutch system. Checking up to be sure your in 1st gear prior to pre-staging can save your clutch system. 'Hot lapping' can put severe heat into the clutch. Some events require this, but try to avoid back to back consecutive runs without allowing the clutch time to cool down. Focus on making quality runs and not quantity. Hard starts and downshifting Hard launches on the street are usually not as hard on the clutch since the tires tend to spin, but still put a good load on the clutch. If you run a sticky tire that will bite on the street, then it is no different than at the race track, the clutch will be loaded harder and wear is going to be accelerated. Many drivers misunderstand downshifting. The clutch is not a brake. However, if you shift to a lower gear and let the pedal back out with no throttle, the resulting 'surge' you feel is loading the clutch braking the engine. This is extremely harmful to your clutch system and will greatly reduce its service life. Under this condition the clutch center hub is loaded very hard and can cause the drive center to break in extreme situations. The straps that retain the pressure ring on diaphragm clutches may also buckle under this severe strain. The proper method is to 'match' engine speeds on a downshift. To do this, add some throttle and raise the rpm's as you engage the clutch so the engine and driveline speeds are closer matched when the clutch engages. Avoid sharp downshifting. Match engine speed when it is appropriate to achieve optimum service life. The result is a smoother transition, which does not load the clutch and disc so hard. If you watch road racers using a clutch, you will see they do this all the time. With some practice you will be able to make the downshift without even feeling it. How long should a clutch last? It is nearly impossible to predict clutch life as everything including the driver will affect the service life. In a street vehicle that is raced often, track passes add up quickly. This will reduce the life of your clutch system for street use. To optimize service life it is a good idea to over clutch an application. Using too weak of clutch system will lead to premature clutch failure, whereas, over clutching your vehicle will allow to handle additional load you may want to place on your clutch system in the future. In full race vehicles it is common to see between 75 and 150 passes on a clutch system between rebuilds. An optimally tuned system might only get 30-40 passes between major servicing. Remember, to optimize your clutch system for the fastest run, the clutch operates on the very edge of slippage. Street driving an aggressive clutch system While not easy, it is possible to master smooth operation on the street with an aggressive clutch setup. The foundation is efficient rear and low gearing and adequate flywheel weight so that the minimal amount of slippage is required on takeoff to make a smooth transition. Experiment with different RPM levels and the amount of 'pedal' you give the clutch on engagement. Get it engaged as quickly as possible to avoid excessive wear. Thanks for posting this. I've often wondered if I let the clutch out too slowly when shifting, especially when taking off in first. Going by this, I think I am. Going to have to work on a compromise between that, and dropping the clutch too hard. Good info. - Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpretzel Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Wow! A plethora of great info. Thanks, KCMO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckstang Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 So wait, on the street, you should try and not take the clutch out slowly? If I start off and let the clutch out quickly it is jerky. I noticed the smoothest shifts when letting the clutch out slowly. Is this bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
150man Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Didn't realize it is hard on a clutch to downshift and let out the clutch without matching speeds. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCMO-GT500 Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 So wait, on the street, you should try and not take the clutch out slowly? If I start off and let the clutch out quickly it is jerky. I noticed the smoothest shifts when letting the clutch out slowly. Is this bad? ..from what I can piece together, yes it can be bad, especially as you reach higher hp levels. Since the clutch issue has shown up on the shelbys, I have been experimenting with launching mine. I tell you what, I can get that puppy going smoothly with very little rpm, and very quick clutch engagement. You just have to work a bit at it. The shelby is a hard car to bog down on the start, you just have to give it a little rpm, and get that clutch released. Chuck, as far as clutch slip, just picture sandpaper against a hard surface, the harder you push (clamping) and the harder and longer you turn (hp and release time) the more heat and wear you have. Everything on the shelby is magnified as far as force and pressure, so you have to be a bit cautious driving it, and make sure you know what is hard on a drivetrain. For example, I was surprised by the statement regarding how hard a dyno is on a clutch. that is the first time I have ever heard that mentioned. think of the shelby owners who have volunteered their car so that some of these manufacturers can develop new mods. You are talking about a whole bunch of dyno runs. I wonder if they would have been willing to take their shelby full force down a drag strip that many times for a free part? for what it's worth, I mentally am already planning for a new clutch that will have a longer life and better friction materials, and that will be serviceable. I would not recommend putting back an oem ford clutch. I am sleeping easier at night having this planned out :hyper: John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orf Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 I noticed from day one that my car does not like soft starts. It likes a slightly more aggressive take off. I learned on a 1978 diesel Rabbit, so feathering the clutch was a must, especially with the hills we have in southwestern PA. Feathering this clutch results in the dreaded shudder. When I get to a line of cars at a stop light, I tend to let the person in front of me get a little head start so I can take off properly. It probably seems odd to the people behind me, but like I said this clutch does not like to be feathered. I know what a good take off sounds like in my car now, so my ear is tuned to it. Regarding the downshifting, I was taught the prefered method mentioned above. Been doing it that way since I was 14. I was taught by my dad, who spent 6 years as a taxi driver in a large German city before coming to this country. After coming here, he participated in SCCA road rallies with the likes of Don Yenko, Donna Mae Mimms, etc. Localstuff, nothing national, but I'd say he was a pretty good driver. I remember him saying "Upshift. Now, downshift. Match the revs. Feel that lugging? You did it wrong. Do it again." At the time, I thought he was being difficult, but I know I'll be doing the same things with my daughters when the time comes. Sorry for the nostalgia trip. I agree completely with what KCMO posted above. I've ridden with plenty of people who can give you motion sickness with how they drive a car with a manual transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCMO-GT500 Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 ..Orf, sounds like some good memories. thanks for sharing. I am actually going to print off that article and periodically review, since I am prone to fall back into bad habits. from my above post, I hope no one thinks what I explained (quick clutch engagement with low rpm) means a soft launch. Once engaged, you darn well need to give it gas, or it definitely will bog down. And as Orf said, that means you need some room ahead of you, and a clear road (no walls ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orf Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 from my above post, I hope no one thinks what I explained (quick clutch engagement with low rpm) means a soft launch. I hope my reply didn't confuse you, either. To me, a soft launch is feathering the clutch and slowly adding throttle. That was expected in my 1978 Rabbit, not this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Didn't realize it is hard on a clutch to downshift and let out the clutch without matching speeds. Thanks! The best way = Clutch in - put in neutral, clutch out Gun up to RPM's where you will be when you downshift Clutch in - put in gear, quickly let clutch out It takes some practice but when you do it you can save a ton of wear and tear, and get some awesome jaw dropping downshifts that are smooth and powerful. LOTS OF PRACTICE THOUGH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraegar Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 The best way = Clutch in - put in neutral, clutch out Gun up to RPM's where you will be when you downshift Clutch in - put in gear, quickly let clutch out It takes some practice but when you do it you can save a ton of wear and tear, and get some awesome jaw dropping downshifts that are smooth and powerful. LOTS OF PRACTICE THOUGH. Are you giving it gas when putting it in gear? Or just when engaging the clutch. (I know, I don't have a gt500, just looking for general principles). During normal driving I put the car in gear with no throttle, and only give it some gas when I begin to let the clutch out. Is that not advised? (I learned to drive stick in a tractor, and have most of my practice on it in my 1980 jeep cj-7, and some smaller imports, so any mustang is a big difference.) - Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Funny you should post that. I had a talk with SVT the other day (about something unrealated to clutches and trannys) but decided I would take the opportunity to ask about the clutch/tranny failures. According to an SVT employee, there seem to be more "reports" of failures than there are failures....that is unless the dealerships aren't reporting them (which they said is unlikely because they're supposed to report everything about this car). It seems the clutches that have failed appear to (a) been quarter-miled on dynos (gee...sounds familiar to your post, huh) and (B) have had a number of 2nd and 3rd gear hard starts (read: drop the clutch). Again, sounds familiar. They said it didn't matter if it's 500 or 600 hp at the tires....they just aren't built to deal with those two types of abuse. As for the trannys. Less than a half dozen problem cases. Primarily 1st/Rev syncro. As has been stated a number of times....this box is very similar to that in the Viper and they run the snot out of them with mucho mods and very few failures. According to another source, two failures have been ripping into reverse at high speeds. Ooops...thought that was 5th!!! Thanks for the post bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCMO-GT500 Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 hey bj Thanks for the additional background information. I really posted that information, not so much to address the failures that we know about from this board and others, but to provide some info to everyone on how to treat their clutches for long life, and maybe to help everyone fully understand why the clutch in a car like this is not a "forever" type of item, even though it has been touted as extremely heavy duty. As for myself, I intend to continue to enjoy mine as a somewhat daily driver with spirited driving, while trying to avoid needless abuse of the clutch and tranny. I am ok with putting a clutch in it at 25-50K. I would be disappointed if I got less than 25K, but if it happens it happens. Since I am putting in the stage 2 next week, I am just going to handle the eventual clutch replacement (non ford) myself so I don't even need to stress over the warranty. The only thing I would stress over is a busted block, and I an convinced it would take a lot of abuse/rpms to make that happen. John edit; help an old fool out, doesn't the shifter have any type of lockout to keep you from reverse at speed? By now I thought that would have been designed in? and no, I am NOT going to go out tonight and try it out to see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 hey bj Thanks for the additional background information. I really posted that information, not so much to address the failures that we know about from this board and others, but to provide some info to everyone on how to treat their clutches for long life, and maybe to help everyone fully understand why the clutch in a car like this is not a "forever" type of item, even though it has been touted as extremely heavy duty. As for myself, I intend to continue to enjoy mine as a somewhat daily driver with spirited driving, while trying to avoid needless abuse of the clutch and tranny. I am ok with putting a clutch in it at 25-50K. I would be disappointed if I got less than 25K, but if it happens it happens. Since I am putting in the stage 2 next week, I am just going to handle the eventual clutch replacement (non ford) myself so I don't even need to stress over the warranty. The only thing I would stress over is a busted block, and I an convinced it would take a lot of abuse/rpms to make that happen. John edit; help an old fool out, doesn't the shifter have any type of lockout to keep you from reverse at speed? By now I thought that would have been designed in? and no, I am NOT going to go out tonight and try it out to see Haven't tried it but I'm not gonna either. I'll take their word for it. bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 hey bj Thanks for the additional background information. I really posted that information, not so much to address the failures that we know about from this board and others, but to provide some info to everyone on how to treat their clutches for long life, and maybe to help everyone fully understand why the clutch in a car like this is not a "forever" type of item, even though it has been touted as extremely heavy duty. As for myself, I intend to continue to enjoy mine as a somewhat daily driver with spirited driving, while trying to avoid needless abuse of the clutch and tranny. I am ok with putting a clutch in it at 25-50K. I would be disappointed if I got less than 25K, but if it happens it happens. Since I am putting in the stage 2 next week, I am just going to handle the eventual clutch replacement (non ford) myself so I don't even need to stress over the warranty. The only thing I would stress over is a busted block, and I an convinced it would take a lot of abuse/rpms to make that happen. John edit; help an old fool out, doesn't the shifter have any type of lockout to keep you from reverse at speed? By now I thought that would have been designed in? and no, I am NOT going to go out tonight and try it out to see I actually tested the lock out on the stock shifter and it was fine. I didn't really push it but was afraid I might go for 5th and ooops. So I got up to speed and tried to push it all the way right and up and wouldn't go farther right than 5th....I was not going to let the clutch out but based on how it went to 6th I know it was 5th. I've never again had to worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Are you giving it gas when putting it in gear? Or just when engaging the clutch. (I know, I don't have a gt500, just looking for general principles). During normal driving I put the car in gear with no throttle, and only give it some gas when I begin to let the clutch out. Is that not advised? (I learned to drive stick in a tractor, and have most of my practice on it in my 1980 jeep cj-7, and some smaller imports, so any mustang is a big difference.) - Tony I'm easing into the gas as I release the clutch after bringing it up to the RPM's needed to downshift. You have to apply gast as you re-engage the clutch, as otherwise you loose the RMPs and the clutch takes the hit. It's a practice thing, when I do the shift outlined above it's probably done in about a second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Are you giving it gas when putting it in gear? Or just when engaging the clutch. (I know, I don't have a gt500, just looking for general principles). During normal driving I put the car in gear with no throttle, and only give it some gas when I begin to let the clutch out. Is that not advised? (I learned to drive stick in a tractor, and have most of my practice on it in my 1980 jeep cj-7, and some smaller imports, so any mustang is a big difference.) - Tony Re-reading your post - it's hard to tell what you mean by: During normal driving I put the car in gear with no throttle, and only give it some gas when I begin to let the clutch out. Is that not advised? From a complete stop - yes. If you are driving and shifting up, yes. If you are driving and you are downshifting than no - you need to follow the double clutch method I described, to match RPM's with the gear you are dropping down into. Hope that helps... -DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Son of GT Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I have discussed this action with many gearheads that I know after being told that I was beating my clutch up when I apply throttle during a downshift. Adding throttle during a downshift is old school; going back to the days of non-synchromesh transmissions when you had to double-clutch in order to make a smooth shift transition between gears. In fact, the sound effect of McQueen's Mustang during the chase scene in Bullitt is from a car that is being double clutched during upshifts and downshifts. Adding throttle during downshifts absolutely takes the pressure off the the clutch, transmission, drive shaft, and differental. During performance driving, adding throttle gets/keeps the engine within its optimal power band too. I glad to read that I have been doing the right thing all along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraegar Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Re-reading your post - it's hard to tell what you mean by: During normal driving I put the car in gear with no throttle, and only give it some gas when I begin to let the clutch out. Is that not advised?From a complete stop - yes. If you are driving and shifting up, yes. If you are driving and you are downshifting than no - you need to follow the double clutch method I described, to match RPM's with the gear you are dropping down into. Hope that helps... -DC I don't downshift often, when I do I apply throttle as it's going into gear. Let's see if I can chart this out... Normal, shifting up (same for stopped - > 1st, 1st -> second, etc though I feather the clutch much more going stopped -> first): Clutch in .. put in gear .. clutch out + throttle .. throttle .. let out throttle + clutch in .. put into next gear .. throttle + clutch out. Normal, downshifting: clutch in .. take out of gear .. throttle + put in lower gear .. throttle + clutch out (again, I don't find myself downshifting often) My concern was with the normal shifting up, that during the "move the shifter into the next gear" step, should I apply throttle? I've tried it, and I just can't seem to get the hang of when / why / how much. But then this is where the synchros do their work... will I wear them out quicker for not using throttle there? Reading this over, it might be more confusing now, lol. - Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbfdengineer Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 I When I was in the fire service and learning to drive the old square tooth fire engines. The proper way to double clutch was not to gun the engine and try to catch the RPM when you down shifted. Rather keep constant throttle raise to match road speed and engage. You can shift like an automatic trany. real smooth, real professional. using this method we could shift without the clutch. Not recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckstang Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Wow, Im lost. Who else? I just drive based on feel. If it feels and sounds smooth, you must be doing fine. If its bogging or over revving then your not doing fine. Its only a clutch, I think you guys have over complicated or maybe Im just thick headed because some of the methods described sound like you are describing how to take flight in a jumbo jet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Wow, Im lost. Who else?I just drive based on feel. If it feels and sounds smooth, you must be doing fine. If its bogging or over revving then your not doing fine. Its only a clutch, I think you guys have over complicated or maybe Im just thick headed because some of the methods described sound like you are describing how to take flight in a jumbo jet. I felt the same way when my parents taught me how to downshift correctly, but once you get it, you won't know why you did it any other way. You get a better reaction on a street downshift, and are immediately in the power band. You don't eat up clutch when you have to downshift and the car doesn't fall on it's face when trying to equalize the RPM's and the clutch. Give it a shot, you will be pleasantly surprised if you get the technique down, and your passengers will thank you for the smooth downshifting and awesome launching at speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 I don't downshift often, when I do I apply throttle as it's going into gear. Let's see if I can chart this out... Normal, shifting up (same for stopped - > 1st, 1st -> second, etc though I feather the clutch much more going stopped -> first): Clutch in .. put in gear .. clutch out + throttle .. throttle .. let out throttle + clutch in .. put into next gear .. throttle + clutch out. Normal, downshifting: clutch in .. take out of gear .. throttle + put in lower gear .. throttle + clutch out (again, I don't find myself downshifting often) My concern was with the normal shifting up, that during the "move the shifter into the next gear" step, should I apply throttle? I've tried it, and I just can't seem to get the hang of when / why / how much. But then this is where the synchros do their work... will I wear them out quicker for not using throttle there? Reading this over, it might be more confusing now, lol. - Tony The only diff thing I do, is release the clutch while in neutral, get it up to RPM's, then engage the clutch, put it in gear and let out the clutch while I floor it. Small difference, not sure how it impacts wear and tear, but I think my way is the less harsh of the two as the clutch isn't engaged while you are getting it up to RPM's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckstang Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 The only diff thing I do, is release the clutch while in neutral, get it up to RPM's, then engage the clutch, put it in gear and let out the clutch while I floor it. Small difference, not sure how it impacts wear and tear, but I think my way is the less harsh of the two as the clutch isn't engaged while you are getting it up to RPM's. Right, but why take the clutch out while the gear selector is in neutral? The car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed, same as if your clutch is out and your gear selector is in neutral. It just seems like you added an unneeded step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianspony Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 I must be doing something wrong. Last year with the traction control on I tried to get a second gear chirp with my son in the car. I got more than a chirp as I released the clutch we went sideways. The other day I tried to do a burnout in first again with the traction control on, but as soon as I let the clutch out again I started to go sideways. Is this something that's normal and something I have to steer to control? I need to go into a vacant lot and try to do some burn outs before I end up killing myself. Any suggestions as to what I can do to prevent going sideways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Right, but why take the clutch out while the gear selector is in neutral? The car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed, same as if your clutch is out and your gear selector is in neutral. It just seems like you added an unneeded step. I guess it's just the way I learned it. When I did it your way, while I was learning, I had an angry South African (my mother) and an equally angry German (my father), telling me I was a dumbkopf (dumbass) and a dreadful driver at the same time. So I did it their way, and I guess it's just the way I have always done it. Now look at my clutch history: 93 Mustang 5.0LX with 350hp. Had it when I was 17, paid for myself by working while going to high school and college. So I had 350hp at the age of 18, with a solid axle and no hop. :happy feet: So you can imagine I was being a teenager in it. Not abusing it because I paid for it, but I was speeding, laying burnouts from time to time. My clutch lasted 85,000 miles. Traded it with 135,000 on the odometer and it was still totally fine, not even close to needing a new one. 1999 Mustang Cobra - 35,000 miles - never changed the clutch 2001 Mustang Cobra - 47,000 miles - never changed the clutch 2004 Mustang Cobra - 35,000 miles - never changed the clutch So maybe my parents were wrong, maybe they were right. Either way it's been working out for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orf Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 When I did it your way, while I was learning, I had an angry South African (my mother) and an equally angry German (my father), telling me I was a dumbkopf (dumbass) and a dreadful driver at the same time. It sounds like we had the same father. Mine taught me to drive, too. My parents immigated from Germany a year before I was born. Similar styles, but I was called worse than a Dumkopf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropping__Chronic Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 It sounds like we had the same father. Mine taught me to drive, too. My parents immigated from Germany a year before I was born. Similar styles, but I was called worse than a Dumkopf. Oh he said plenty worse, but this is a family site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.