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installed VMP 2.59 pulley and idler this morning


skeet

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I did the VMP 2.59 pulley and idler today. It wasn't difficult, the only thing that I had a problem with was figuring out how to release the belt with the tensioner. You should unbolt the coolant tank and push it aside to get access to the tensioner and the idler. When you put the ratchet into the tensioner have the handle parallel with the ground and push down.

 

Justin's removal/install tool worked as advertised. If you can read instructions and know how to use a wrench and ratchet you are good to go.

 

Before you put the belt back on the pulley check the other pulleys, the belt came off the pulley just below the idler, I put it back on and then using the tensioner then I placed the belt on the super charger pulley.

 

I took the car for a short ride and then just to make sure it was working ok. I did not jump on it to check the boost, maybe later tonight.

 

remove.jpg

 

remove1.jpg

 

install.jpg

 

install1-1.jpg

 

 

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Looks good. I just did this on my '07 a few weeks ago. I had some issues flashing my computer, but Justin was able to get them fixed in short order. My project this weekend is to get my LC-1 wideband and new gauge installed so that I can monitor my A/F in real time. I just had the bung welded in this morning, so I guess I know what I'm doing Saturday.

 

Are you going to get your car dyno tested? I did, and I'm glad that I did because it turned out that my car was running really lean up top. The A/F was fine down low, but started to rise at around 4500. It finally topped out at around 13 @ 6k. Everything I read says that these cars should be around 11.5, so the 13 number makes me nervous. This is why I'm putting the wideband on...I'm a bit paranoid, and I figure that the wideband should offer me some cheap insurance.

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Looks good. I just did this on my '07 a few weeks ago. I had some issues flashing my computer, but Justin was able to get them fixed in short order. My project this weekend is to get my LC-1 wideband and new gauge installed so that I can monitor my A/F in real time. I just had the bung welded in this morning, so I guess I know what I'm doing Saturday.

 

Are you going to get your car dyno tested? I did, and I'm glad that I did because it turned out that my car was running really lean up top. The A/F was fine down low, but started to rise at around 4500. It finally topped out at around 13 @ 6k. Everything I read says that these cars should be around 11.5, so the 13 number makes me nervous. This is why I'm putting the wideband on...I'm a bit paranoid, and I figure that the wideband should offer me some cheap insurance.

 

I'm a little concerned. Shouldn"t Justin"s tune have the A/F ratio within a safe margin already. Now your going to have to have the car "retuned" to compensate for a calibration you should of already gotten when you downloaded VMP"s tune? Do you believe that anybody that retunes should dyno just to be sure?

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I'm a little concerned. Shouldn"t Justin"s tune have the A/F ratio within a safe margin already. Now your going to have to have the car "retuned" to compensate for a calibration you should of already gotten when you downloaded VMP"s tune? Do you believe that anybody that retunes should dyno just to be sure?

 

 

You have no worries with Justin's tunes.

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Looks good. I just did this on my '07 a few weeks ago. I had some issues flashing my computer, but Justin was able to get them fixed in short order. My project this weekend is to get my LC-1 wideband and new gauge installed so that I can monitor my A/F in real time. I just had the bung welded in this morning, so I guess I know what I'm doing Saturday.

 

Are you going to get your car dyno tested? I did, and I'm glad that I did because it turned out that my car was running really lean up top. The A/F was fine down low, but started to rise at around 4500. It finally topped out at around 13 @ 6k. Everything I read says that these cars should be around 11.5, so the 13 number makes me nervous. This is why I'm putting the wideband on...I'm a bit paranoid, and I figure that the wideband should offer me some cheap insurance.

 

 

I would recommend the dynojet wideband over the LC1, it seems to be more reliable.

 

I tune a lot of cars locally, and average in all my results so my mail order tunes are normally within 2%, but occasionally you will have outliers. We are also assuming that the dyno you were on had properly maintained and calibrated a/f monitoring equipment...

 

I recently had a customer with an 11 dyno his car, it showed the same types of results as yours. Well the 11s have factory UEGOs (wideband o2 sensors, same as used on a dyno). I had him datalog the car, both factory wideband o2 sensors were showing a perfect 11.7:1 airfuel all the way to 6500rpm, I trust the factory sensors right in the exhaust manifold over a wideband that goes in the tailpipe and uses a vacuum pump to pull the exhaust over the sensor. Must less chance of a reading that has been contaminated with ambient air (which causes it to read leaner) when they are close to the engine.

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I'm a little concerned. Shouldn"t Justin"s tune have the A/F ratio within a safe margin already. Now your going to have to have the car "retuned" to compensate for a calibration you should of already gotten when you downloaded VMP"s tune? Do you believe that anybody that retunes should dyno just to be sure?

 

 

The commanded a/f was .80 lambda or 11.7:1 a/f in the tune. For various reasons, a mass air system can sometimes come out a little differently. If you have a multiple piece CAI, each person puts those two pieces together a little differently than the next. The screen found in the 10+ paper filters effects a/f slightly when its removed. Anything that effects air flow over the MAF sensor has the possibility of changing the air/fuel ratio.

 

I offer updated tunes free of charge, that service is included for anyone that buys a tune from me and datalogs. If you don't provide datalogs for me to make precise adjustments, then the best adjustment to make is on the tuner itself as that is a more coarse overall adjustment.

 

I don't think everyone needs to dyno, I do these cars all the time in the shop and they come in within a few percent on the first shot. In the case of 11 up cars, what you command is what you get due to the factory installed widebands and the closed loop WOT operation.

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