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devildog350
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JMN444, Here is some info for you if you just want a track car only, this is what is done to the car. Start with the front, the brakes were 68 lincoln calipers, with T'Bird rotors-12X1-1/4-the spindles were 68-69 big shaft for larger bearing, the rims were 15" mini Lites, 4" back space to clear larger calipers. The lower A arm runs a sperical bearing, the upper A arm is cut at the outer end, and straightened, reinforced boxed and welded, gives the ball joint less stress and gives negitive wedge. the spring perch has needle bearings installed. Front springs are 600-850#, static at 10-1/2, then set to ride height. strut arms are Heim joint (DO NOT RUN POLY ON STRUT ROD). Poly will break strut arms. The Chassis is stitched welded from front to rear.

The rear end is 9"-56" flange to flange, Big Bearing, 31 spline. Rear springs are 1" width-sperical bearings in front and rear eyes(upper Shakel mount can be done also), Rear end is vented at both sides of the pumpkin, to overflow in trunk. axles are sealed inside at pumpkin if you run Green bearing that is already lubricated. Rear drums are 10-1/2". Watts Link or Panard. Fuel cell(set as low as possible).

All of these parts can be purchased from either COBRA AUTOMOTIVE, or Mike Eisenberg(MACAEO MOTORSPORTS), both are on the web.

This is just the basic for making a track car only, their is a whole bunch more, If you just want to run street and some track, just do it simple, and make it look like it with paint and rims and tires. Keep the engine mild you'll enjoy it more.

 

Frank

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Thanks Frank, are you giving me specs on the car I pictured? or just general build ideas?

 

At this point, it'll be limited track time, but we will see how much I enjoy track time... Likely start with stuff that will benefit the street drivability first, and upgrade from there.

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Thanks Frank, are you giving me specs on the car I pictured? or just general build ideas?

 

At this point, it'll be limited track time, but we will see how much I enjoy track time... Likely start with stuff that will benefit the street drivability first, and upgrade from there.

 

Thats the basics of a full track car, for a period correct car as raced in the day, its less Heim joints. If you need info either way you go let me know if I can help you.

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Thats the basics of a full track car, for a period correct car as raced in the day, its less Heim joints. If you need info either way you go let me know if I can help you.

 

 

Thanks Frank,

 

I am following along as well, if you don't mind.

 

I have the black w/gold stripes 65 pictured before. I have not installed a panhard bar or watts link as of yet. However, I do have the del-a-lum bushings in the leaf springs. Which would be better for a car used for auto cross, track and some very little street use?

 

Thank you

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Thanks Frank,

 

I am following along as well, if you don't mind.

 

I have the black w/gold stripes 65 pictured before. I have not installed a panhard bar or watts link as of yet. However, I do have the del-a-lum bushings in the leaf springs. Which would be better for a car used for auto cross, track and some very little street use?

 

Thank you

 

The del-a-lum bushings bind to much, causes to much jounce in the rear, replace with sperical, Global West cat back has sperical for front and rear instaled already, but doing this you have to go to watts llink or panard to center rear and keep inline. This will be ok for street use, you'll notice the difference. The alumn bushings and heavy springs is the way we did it back in the 60's, times have changed.

Your car looks great

Frank

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The del-a-lum bushings bind to much, causes to much jounce in the rear, replace with sperical, Global West cat back has sperical for front and rear instaled already, but doing this you have to go to watts llink or panard to center rear and keep inline. This will be ok for street use, you'll notice the difference. The alumn bushings and heavy springs is the way we did it back in the 60's, times have changed.

Your car looks great

Frank

 

 

 

Yes, I know what you are talking about with the jounce. I got my rear springs from GW, didn't know about the ones with sperical. Can I get them from GW or do you know?

 

Thanks for the info, trying to make it a better peformer all the time.

 

Joe

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Yes, I know what you are talking about with the jounce. I got my rear springs from GW, didn't know about the ones with sperical. Can I get them from GW or do you know?

 

Thanks for the info, trying to make it a better peformer all the time.

 

Joe

 

Yes, but their a different spring than what you have, their called CAT BACK, the front eye is a different size with the bearing, call and talk with them maybe they can make a deal on your springs? you can ask them to sell you the spring leaf by itself, then you can take your springs apart and replace with the leaf spring with bearings. yes you can bend the spring clips back and seperate leafs. Replace the center stacker bolt new with an allen bolt, it will center the springs in the spring perch better than the bolt that comes with the springs.

 

Frank

Edited by devildog350
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