SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 So as some of you know I have been redoing my corroded hood and spotted stripes, so I figure hey why not get some new hood pins and plates... Well my review is that they are much better than the originals as the pins are stainless not chrome plated and the retainer clips are stainless and high quality not chromplated cast mystery metal. Also the lanyards have a nice swivel on the retainer ring end that is very very cool.... The Irony you ask well..... The kit comes with the same stainless screws that made the hood corrode in the first place. too much I was really laughing by this point And the Lanyards were corroding inside the plastic coating.... Seriously funny I am gonna run them and they are gonna be popriveted to the hood. It is all part of what makes a Shelby a Shelby...I love this car I swear! Can't wait to get it back on the track where it belongs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormeaston Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Ain't that the truth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 This does not make any sense at all. I too want to replace my hood pins and rusty lanyards but why would I spend any more money to get the same defective product. I am going to try to POP rivit my 08 Hood Pin Plates with some aluminum rivits. And because of all this Aluminum and steel components causing corrosion I am also taking off the Shelby Aluminum Gas door that was on my car when I bought it used and spend $100 to get the factory gas door and have it painted Blue. I am paranoid that I will be buying a quarter panel in the future because they chose to sell an aluminum product that comes in contact with steel. I know they state that it is clear coated to prevent corrosion but I am not taking any chances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Well you won't have to replace the quarter if it happens you'd have to match the paint!! haha Seriously though galvanic corrosion happens easier between Aluminum and stainless. Stainless and steel should be much less corrosive when in contact with one another...google galvanic scale. The more noble and less noble metals when in contact corrode. IMO the new pin kit or the one I got sent is better by far to the original 07 ones on my car, the lanyards are a little funky but then again I am not going to Pebble Beach anytime soon...;@) The new kit is worth the money just say no to the screws though IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2BIGFRED Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Not trying to hijack but I got a brand new set of the black shelby hood pins if anyone is interested in them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Not trying to hijack but I got a brand new set of the black shelby hood pins if anyone is interested in them.. Where did you get them? OK back on thread now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2BIGFRED Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Where did you get them? OK back on thread now! From the Shelby store.. Back to thread......lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Kocon 2417 Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 When I got my hood repainted, re-striped, and new scoop, Shelby sent new aluminum screws along with the stripes and scoop. I would think you'd be able to get them from Shelby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 AAAAhhhhh the solution is real!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 When I got my hood repainted, re-striped, and new scoop, Shelby sent new aluminum screws along with the stripes and scoop. I would think you'd be able to get them from Shelby. Just curious if you double made sure if they were aluminum? Or did they just tell you they were aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Chad just use pop rivets it will match the scoop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Kocon 2417 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Just curious if you double made sure if they were aluminum? Or did they just tell you they were aluminum? They are aluminum; I checked them before the dealer installed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks Bob...I'll make the call on Monday and ask....SA as always was very helpful when I called for a scoop stripe...they sent a rivet set and a stripe, I asked to pay but they sent it N/C. The parts came 3 days after the afternoon I spoke to them... Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 From the Shelby store.. Back to thread......lol How muc do you want? BTH...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2BIGFRED Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 If I remember right they were right at $100 so if you want them I will let you have them for $70.. They are the black ones that have Shelby written on them.. I have not looked if they are cheaper let me know. I also have a rear carbon fiber fascia from raceskinz never used i would like to sell. I decided to keep mine black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I used poprivets.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 I too just got a brand new hood pin kit replacement from Shelby and my dealership didn't use the screws that they sent with it. They used stainless because they said it wouldn't cause rust against the aluminum. So that is not correct though? I still have the little bag of screws that Shelby included. How can you tell if they are aluminum? See if they don't react to a magnet? Thanks! Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Does anybody have some thoughts or advice about stainless screws on the aluminum hood? I don't want the rust blisters under the plates to happen again. Thanks, Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 I too just got a brand new hood pin kit replacement from Shelby and my dealership didn't use the screws that they sent with it. They used stainless because they said it wouldn't cause rust against the aluminum. So that is not correct though? I still have the little bag of screws that Shelby included. How can you tell if they are aluminum? See if they don't react to a magnet? Thanks! Dana Use a magnet. You could Google "Galvanic Corrosion" , the stainless screws WILL cause corrosion with Aluminum hood. Pop-rivets match the scoop. Dealer strikes again...haha. Cheers! edit: If these are going to react my theory is that the relatively thin flange of the Pop-Rivet withh start to corrode first and you will see it. I have some considerable time with big boats in Salt water and I have noticed that the thinner less noble metal will corrode first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 I tried a magnet on the screws that were included with my hood pin kit. They had a very, very slight magnetism to them. So does that definitely mean they are NOT aluminum? Are aluminum sheet metal screws a hard item to find? What about going with aluminum button head screws all the way through the hood. Then secure with tiny lock washes and nuts? These new hood pins and screws have been on my freshly painted and restriped hood for 5 months now and I am going to pretty upset if I pull them and discover rust again. Even the scoop was replaced. Thanks for the tips! Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Aluminum has no magnetic pull you have stainless screws. Get them off the car would be what I would do. Try Tacoma screw for the aluminum screws or read above and call Shelby. I used pop rivets. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hi there, I just pulled the pin plates & screws and thank God no corrosion! So now stuck in the small town of Walla Walla I will head to True Value. If they have nothing in stock then I will order some in. Thanks again for your swift responses, much appreciated! Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 No sweat...Shelby On! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Stainless screws are not magnetic!!!!!!!!!!!!! If they are phillips head screws I'd bet they are stainless steel. Do not use stainless as they cause galvanic corrosion. Aluminum is very light and it will mark easy if you file on it. It is very hard to find phillips head aluminum screws. I ended up going with flat head screws. The heads were too large so I had to mill them smaller and they fit very nice now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Hi there, well I searched high n low and found no Phillips head aluminum screws. I did find the straight kind though but holding out for Phillips. I don't know how to POP rivet so I don't really wish to go down that ave. I did something pretty cool though. I had decided that I wanted the option to put my lanyards on only for show so I didn't have my dealership rivet the new ones on. Plus I received 2 sets of lanyards w/ the cotter pins that go through the large bolt. So on one set I pullrd the lanyards and will run this for daily. I then used a 4mm tap and tapped the holes where the lanyards attach to car. I bought 2 really nice stainless button type screws n washers in 4mm. The kind that utilize an Allen wrench. Then I can put my other set of lanyards on super fast for car shows. And then of course take them right back off. Looks clean and sharp! Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalSGT Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hey Guys, I'm not sure of the exact size you're looking for, but here's a sample. This company has always been great for steering me towards a supplier if they didn't carry something. I use them a lot for woodworking supplies and they're quality is absolutely number one. Might be worth a try. http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0606-PAS/6-x-34quot-Aluminum-Pan-Head-Screws John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 My solution which matches the scoop.... Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Holmes Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Okay - Aluminum Screw Dilemma resolved! I contacted Shelby American and spoke to Tim at the parts department. He put me in touch with Juan of SA. I actually e-mailed Juan and he replied back promptly so thank you to both Tim and Juan of SA! Juan gave me this phone number to call (800-367-3788). I didn't realize it until I called but it is SVT in Detroit? Anyhow, this is the same number we have all called for warranty service on our warped hood scoops and rusted hoods, etc. I just gave them the last 6 digits of my VIN # and my shipping address and they shipped them to me via UPS. The screws left them either late Monday or early Tuesday and they were at my door Friday (yesterday) and are now installed on my SGT. Although we only need 8 of them FORD ships you a bag of 10 screws. They answer the phone promptly and they already know what I am speaking of before i can even finish my sentence. They must have subcontracted out to somebody or something because these screws appear to be exactly what the doctor ordered not just in the fact that they are aluminum but their length as well. They are not quite as long as the original ones that came with the hood pin kit. I don't know about the rest of you but one thing I noticed fresh from the beginning with my hood pin plates was that they were not totally resting flush on the hood of my car from the beginning. Reason being, Shelby had not drilled completely though both skin layers of the aluminum hood. So when you put the plates on the hood surface and then ran the screw through - it only screwed down tight enough until the tip of the screw hit the second inner layer of the hood! So, either drill all the way through both skins OR use a shorter screw. Those are the kinds of things that I must admit bothered me about getting a genuine Shelby from SA. Why they would allow that car to leave with something like that. Oh well - we all know the saga. Back to the screws. They are 100% aluminum so they are not the shiniest screws in the world but we only see the Phillips heads of them anyhow. So I took some Neverdull and just polished the heads of each screw. They look and work great!! Now I feel confident that I will not meet the rust/ corrosion/ blistered paint issue again! Something so cheap yet hard to track down both in my rural town of Walla Walla and even on the Internet! Just as a cool side note. I also took a tap (4MM in my case because I already owned one and it is the exact perfect fit for their pre-drilled rivet hole!) and I tapped out the holes in the radiator frame where the hood pin lanyards once were riveted. When I got my Shelby back after all of that warranty service I told them not to re-rivet the new lanyards to the car. I choose to run around without the lanyards rubbing on the hood and only place them on the car for show. After tapping out the two holes I picked up really nice stainless steel allen wrench headed button screws and two stainless washers. Now all I have to do for show is just screw each lanyard onto the radiator frame in like 60 seconds and I am good to go. Plus, it just looks sharp. So for those of you wanting those aluminum screws just ring up that # and you will be good to go! Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave870 Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Okay - Aluminum Screw Dilemma resolved! I contacted Shelby American and spoke to Tim at the parts department. He put me in touch with Juan of SA. I actually e-mailed Juan and he replied back promptly so thank you to both Tim and Juan of SA! Juan gave me this phone number to call (800-367-3788). I didn't realize it until I called but it is SVT in Detroit? Anyhow, this is the same number we have all called for warranty service on our warped hood scoops and rusted hoods, etc. I just gave them the last 6 digits of my VIN # and my shipping address and they shipped them to me via UPS. The screws left them either late Monday or early Tuesday and they were at my door Friday (yesterday) and are now installed on my SGT. Although we only need 8 of them FORD ships you a bag of 10 screws. They answer the phone promptly and they already know what I am speaking of before i can even finish my sentence. They must have subcontracted out to somebody or something because these screws appear to be exactly what the doctor ordered not just in the fact that they are aluminum but their length as well. They are not quite as long as the original ones that came with the hood pin kit. I don't know about the rest of you but one thing I noticed fresh from the beginning with my hood pin plates was that they were not totally resting flush on the hood of my car from the beginning. Reason being, Shelby had not drilled completely though both skin layers of the aluminum hood. So when you put the plates on the hood surface and then ran the screw through - it only screwed down tight enough until the tip of the screw hit the second inner layer of the hood! So, either drill all the way through both skins OR use a shorter screw. Those are the kinds of things that I must admit bothered me about getting a genuine Shelby from SA. Why they would allow that car to leave with something like that. Oh well - we all know the saga. Back to the screws. They are 100% aluminum so they are not the shiniest screws in the world but we only see the Phillips heads of them anyhow. So I took some Neverdull and just polished the heads of each screw. They look and work great!! Now I feel confident that I will not meet the rust/ corrosion/ blistered paint issue again! Thanks dana just ordered the screws getting ready to get hood repainted because of bubbling up around hood pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northeast2007SGT Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 Dana and others, My Shelby GT suffered front-end collision damage, and I’ve got a new hood. I’ve asked the body shop to refrain from installing the stock hood pins because of the hideous rust my car experienced. Has anyone found a good long term solution? My car is likely one of the highest mileage 2007 Shelby GTs out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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