Madlock Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 In preparation for making my GT500 go faster, I'm starting my upgrades by making sure it can stop. Tons of options exist, and I'm considering the Shelby/Baer/Eradispeed/PlusPro/Extreme for BOTH the front AND rear. I'm hoping some folks who've chosen any of these sets may be able tooffer some first-person insight into how much of an improvement they've seen –and the relative value proposition of each set and front/rear combination. Since the OE Brembo front brakes offer a fairly good startingpoint, only the Plus Pro or Extreme really make sense. Even with the Plus set's slotted and cross-drilledrotors which may cool better continuously on a track, I can't see swapping-out the4-piston front calipers for a 2-piston set when I'll also be driving the car onthe road a decent amount of time. With the practical options for the front pretty-much beingupgrading the rotors only (to a non-Baer/Shelby type) or going with a whole-hogShelby Plus Pro or Extreme 6-Piston Set. How much of an improvement am I likely to see in both everyday roaddriving and track use? Will a front set of Extreme brakes make a quantum differenceover the Brembos with improved rotors and pads – or at least enough to make theprice difference worthwhile? Would I besilly to consider anything else – regardless of the price difference? How differently do the ceramic Extreme brake pads behavefrom the sport touring pads used with the Plus Pro brakes – beyond mitigatingfade? The rear is a different kettle of fish – as Ford has givenit the most room for improvement, but also because it's so easily-improved (atleast in terms of reducing track fade) by a simple rotor swap and caliperrelocation. Unfortunately, it's also abugger in terms Shelby/Baer's premium systems being SO much more expensive forthe rear than front. Even if a set of Extreme rear brakes would do for the rear asmuch as it would do for the front, it has nearly twice the price hurdle toclear. Although I'm not likely to makesuch an investment without upgrading BOTH the front and rear to an equaldegree, would I be doing MORE for my car by doing the rear (if I were forced tochoose between them)? I'd really appreciate any first-hand experience with theseproducts or advice as to things I might not be fully considering that I should. Ironically, as I continue to acquire the parts to upgradethe vehicle to what I want (U/LCA's, Torsen, drive shaft, A-Arms, adjustabledampers and now brakes), the more I'm beginning to think ONLY my desire toeventually go to 750hp makes the GT500 worthwhile over a 5.0 L GT – with a 624hp supercharger upgrade. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVT NAJA Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Madlock, Given the above considerations that you're deliberating, what is the delta between going it alone and sending your Shelby to Tasca for a Super Snake upgrade, as much of what you want comes with the package??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madlock Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Madlock, Given the above considerations that you're deliberating, what is the delta between going it alone and sending your Shelby to Tasca for a Super Snake upgrade, as much of what you want comes with the package??? Huge - as the brakes are almost entirely additional. About the only thing I'd actually want of the SuperSnake that isn't otherwise available is rear cooling ducts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 I use brembos with slotted and dimpled rotors as well as ceramic pads and ss brake lines on track front straight speeds from 145 down to 30 and some corners 90+ never had a problem no fade no warpage. I wonder how far the braking can go with the modern ABS systems,,I guess bigger and better would negate fade to some extent but so would cooling ducting I wish there was an unbiased shootout between the Shelby/baer and brembo upgraded I do know stock gt to brembo 100-0 was 20 shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingrider Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby.GT500 Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Based on my research, since I've been planning on upgrading my brakes, drilled and slotted rotors are just for looks so save your money. 6 pistons do not make much difference over the 4 pistons, you wont even feel it. What you would feel and an upgrade in performance is changing your brake pads to Hawk pads and change your brake lines to stainless steel. Also, if I have the money, I will get the the Bear Extremes because they just look badazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madlock Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Based on my research, since I've been planning on upgrading my brakes, drilled and slotted rotors are just for looks so save your money. 6 pistons do not make much difference over the 4 pistons, you wont even feel it. What you would feel and an upgrade in performance is changing your brake pads to Hawk pads and change your brake lines to stainless steel. I appreciate your input. I plan to tracking my car more often, so I'm as concerned about matters like fade in addition to one-time 100-to-zero stopping distance. In THAT respect, I DO believe there's some merit to slotted and cross-drilled rotors (though their marketing benefit can't be denied) - which is likely to show itself on the 50th time the brakes are applied rather than the 5th. I definitely plan on upgrading the lines anyway, but I'm willing to pay a little more to have the piece of mind. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby.GT500 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 If you are going to track your car often, then slotted or drilled rotors are a bad idea. By having the rotors drilled or slotted, it made the rotors weaker and now have a chance that it will crack. What I also learned from reading articles is that most people believe that because the rotors are drilled, they help cool the brakes. It is true but the rotors heat up much faster as well than the non slotted or drilled rotors. Just FYI, I wanted to share what I've learned so far. Good luck to yah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 slotted and dimpled were my choice but for hardcore track time cooling ducts are a big priority Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby.GT500 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Here is some info I found on some sites which a forum member posted: Wilwoods Website Quote: Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted? A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity. Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications. Stop-Tech Website Quote: Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors? STOPTECH provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madlock Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 slotted and dimpled were my choice but for hardcore... There's a REALLY lurid joke just WAITING to be made here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 slotted and dimpled were my choice but for hardcore track time cooling ducts are a big priority Where'd you get the SR center caps? I have as much Roush parts as I have Shelby parts on my car so I was thinking about having a rocker made with SR 750 on it (Shelby-Roush 750HP). Those caps would go along nicely with that! TIA, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby.GT500 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 I think you can get them at www.americanmuscle.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Where'd you get the SR center caps? I have as much Roush parts as I have Shelby parts on my car so I was thinking about having a rocker made with SR 750 on it (Shelby-Roush 750HP). Those caps would go along nicely with that! TIA, Phill they came with the wheels they actually say STR got them @ american muscle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madlock Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Here is some info I found on some sites which a forum member posted: I appreciate the additional reference information. The fact of the matter is that finding rotors that are EITHER slotted or cross-drilled rather than BOTH is pretty difficult nowadays - particularly given the limited selection for buyers who want to stay brand-specific. As a aggressively as I hope to put them to use, it's simply not likely to be of the severity or duration that's more likely to result in a fractured rotor because they were drilled. But I DO appreciate your interest - and wanting to ensure whatever I did was well-informed. Hopefully, the entire matter won't be moot. I tried to buy the Extreme Front AND Rear Brakes Thursday evening - (along with the up-rated radiator and inter-cooler and some other items), but I couldn't get the discount to apply properly. I intended to call Shelby on Friday, but when I did, they'd already closed early for the holiday weekend. I wrote them immediately and am hopeful they will honor the promotion appropriately. I'm eager to get everything installed (once my '2012 arrives) so I can then take her to 750hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 I appreciate the additional reference information. The fact of the matter is that finding rotors that are EITHER slotted or cross-drilled rather than BOTH is pretty difficult nowadays - particularly given the limited selection for buyers who want to stay brand-specific. As a aggressively as I hope to put them to use, it's simply not likely to be of the severity or duration that's more likely to result in a fractured rotor because they were drilled. But I DO appreciate your interest - and wanting to ensure whatever I did was well-informed. Hopefully, the entire matter won't be moot. I tried to buy the Extreme Front AND Rear Brakes Thursday evening - (along with the up-rated radiator and inter-cooler and some other items), but I couldn't get the discount to apply properly. I intended to call Shelby on Friday, but when I did, they'd already closed early for the holiday weekend. I wrote them immediately and am hopeful they will honor the promotion appropriately. I'm eager to get everything installed (once my '2012 arrives) so I can then take her to 750hp. Madlock, Are you trying to out pace everyone with your mod schedule ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_B Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 I appreciate the additional reference information. The fact of the matter is that finding rotors that are EITHER slotted or cross-drilled rather than BOTH is pretty difficult nowadays - particularly given the limited selection for buyers who want to stay brand-specific. It is very easy to find slotted-only or drilled-only, or at least no more difficult than the combo cross-drilled and slotted pattern. What do you find so difficult about it? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingrider Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Van has slotted rotors on his site... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 I have slotted and dimpled performance brake rotors! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madlock Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 I have slotted and dimpled performance brake rotors! I like to be different....I went with dimpled and slotted performance rotors m'self. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby.GT500 Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 check this thread before deciding on the drilled rotors: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/57332-cracked-rotors/page__pid__978647#entry978647 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hess Motorsports Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 OK so I will try to keep this response short. I have had the distinct pleasure of having the ability to use ALL of the following systems on my very own carfor testing purposes. Wilwood W6A, Brembo Grand Turismo, Baer Extreme 6S, Stop Tech, and now the AP Racing system. For a car I drive every day, and use on tracks on weekends, I can easily say without any doubt that the AP system is hands down the LAST kit I will ever put on my car. Each system has their own design however the AP system uses a completely new fully fixed position 4 piston rear kit which gives me the balance I need and the benefits of having a real rear brake system. These cars have more than enough understeer why would nayone add a giant front only brake system and just change out the rear pad and rotor? The other manufacturers haven't done enough homework on the rear kit to handle the c-clip axle rear brakes but AP spent a ton of time in this issue. They have come up with a seriously trick rear caliper that uses Titanium knock back springs to handle the float without leaving the driver with a soft pedal. So there is finally a balanced brake system out there for the masses. And it still included a new rear internal parking brake that uses the factory handle. Plus the caliper and apd sizes the use gives me about 10-15 different pad compounds to choose from anywhere from a ceramic low dust pad up the the full on Mintex F3R that NASCAR uses. We sell the higher end systems for almost all makes and models and so far the feedback we have gotten from our AP users, especially GT500 owners, has been nothing short of amazing! PM for details or pictures! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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