skiph Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 Well, it's the first year that my '08 has needed an actual emissions test done before renewing my registration. They plug right into the computer through the connector under the dash and everything looks great. Test finishes fast, but FAILS The printout indicates all my sensors have not been initialized yet and the guy there says he's seen it before after the battery has been disconnected (which it was many months and miles ago), and I need to drive 100 to 150 miles (no problemo so far) at UNDER 60 MPH...OK, that can be a problem. I'll get run over going that slow around here. Then the real kicker. The 100-150 miles at less than 60 MPH need to be contiguous! They can be a little at a time, with breaks between the miles, but go over 60 MPH and...start over from 0.... So thought I would throw this one out there to see if it sounds familiar to anyone, and if there might be a way by dealer can do something to get around this issue. Really...less then 60 MPH around here and I'll get run over by a Semi... Thoughts anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbymotorsports Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Well, it's the first year that my '08 has needed an actual emissions test done before renewing my registration. They plug right into the computer through the connector under the dash and everything looks great. Test finishes fast, but FAILS The printout indicates all my sensors have not been initialized yet and the guy there says he's seen it before after the battery has been disconnected (which it was many months and miles ago), and I need to drive 100 to 150 miles (no problemo so far) at UNDER 60 MPH...OK, that can be a problem. I'll get run over going that slow around here. Then the real kicker. The 100-150 miles at less than 60 MPH need to be contiguous! They can be a little at a time, with breaks between the miles, but go over 60 MPH and...start over from 0.... So thought I would throw this one out there to see if it sounds familiar to anyone, and if there might be a way by dealer can do something to get around this issue. Really...less then 60 MPH around here and I'll get run over by a Semi... Thoughts anyone? I wouldn't go back to that guy if that's his advice. I'm sure you'll have better luck at the dealership since federal law requires the manufacturer to fix anything that is stopping the car from passing its check, well anything that has been monkied with. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Well, it's the first year that my '08 has needed an actual emissions test done before renewing my registration. They plug right into the computer through the connector under the dash and everything looks great. Test finishes fast, but FAILS The printout indicates all my sensors have not been initialized yet and the guy there says he's seen it before after the battery has been disconnected (which it was many months and miles ago), and I need to drive 100 to 150 miles (no problemo so far) at UNDER 60 MPH...OK, that can be a problem. I'll get run over going that slow around here. Then the real kicker. The 100-150 miles at less than 60 MPH need to be contiguous! They can be a little at a time, with breaks between the miles, but go over 60 MPH and...start over from 0.... So thought I would throw this one out there to see if it sounds familiar to anyone, and if there might be a way by dealer can do something to get around this issue. Really...less then 60 MPH around here and I'll get run over by a Semi... Thoughts anyone? Yes - after resetting the PCM, it takes a while for the sensors to register. The PCM may not recognize the O2 sensors, the CATS, etc for some time. It can likely be 100-150 miles - and I've heard differing opinions after that on how the miles are driven. Tho what I'm not sure about - you say it was many months and miles since the battery was disconnected. If that's the case - I say punt and start over. Disconnect it again to rest - and then drive it aty highway speeds for a couple hundred miles. If it still doesn't register the sensors - I'd check wiring. Beyond that - you'll need better expertise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5spd07gt Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Same thing happened to me but the dealership told me to put 30 miles on it and bring it back. So I ended up putting about 40 miles on it, all city driving, took it back the next day and it passed just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 I wouldn't go back to that guy if that's his advice. I'm sure you'll have better luck at the dealership since federal law requires the manufacturer to fix anything that is stopping the car from passing its check, well anything that has been monkied with. Steve This is very common in VA - maybe some states are more stringent with the emissions test. I don't want to say I've had personal experience, tho let's say you can have a highly modified car and have several tunes. One in which actually includes cats and O2 sensors. You might install a tune - and none of these emissions control devices register immediately. It simply takes time for them to check in. Let's just say I know a guy where it took 4 trips before all sensors registered - after about 150 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks folks. Yea GT500FLYBOY, many months and many miles ago. But less then 60 MPH I'll drive a bit, but see if I can slip in a trip to the dealer as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbymotorsports Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 This is very common in VA - maybe some states are more stringent with the emissions test. I don't want to say I've had personal experience, tho let's say you can have a highly modified car and have several tunes. One in which actually includes cats and O2 sensors. You might install a tune - and none of these emissions control devices register immediately. It simply takes time for them to check in. Let's just say I know a guy where it took 4 trips before all sensors registered - after about 150 miles. No state is stricter than California and no way do we have to drive a car 150 miles because the battery was disconnected. The OP didn't mention an aftermarket tune but if that is true then all bets are off. I still say go to the dealer. They will get it to pass. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcthorne Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 IF the battery was disconnected, it takes less than 50 miles and 3 start / drive cycles with at least 1 minute of hot idle at some point to get all emmissions sensors to register. Whoever told you to drive 150 miles below 60mph is blowing smoke. Go somewhere else that actually has a clue. If your battery was not recently disconnected and you have the factory tune, either take it to the dealer or a good mechanic and find out which sensor is not cleared. The inspection shop should have given you this information when he failed you. If you have an aftermarket tune, you need to get with your tuner and get this cleared up. The OBDII online emissions check is the same in all 50 states where its used. Its a programmed part of the tune in the car, not the test station. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starkie Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yeah same thing happened to me. I spent about 40 mins driving around locally, stop and start traffic, went back, went right through. Starkie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin00Stang Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 The 60mph thing is bogus, but I have heard the fuel tank can't be too full or too empty, or the evap readiness test won't get run. Basically the pcm needs to run checks no all the emissions systems before it can give a completed and you can pass an obd2 inspection, the battery disconnect or a pcm reflash with a tuner clears all these checks so they need 50-100mph to run again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 snake Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Well, it's the first year that my '08 has needed an actual emissions test done before renewing my registration. They plug right into the computer through the connector under the dash and everything looks great. Test finishes fast, but FAILS The printout indicates all my sensors have not been initialized yet and the guy there says he's seen it before after the battery has been disconnected (which it was many months and miles ago), and I need to drive 100 to 150 miles (no problemo so far) at UNDER 60 MPH...OK, that can be a problem. I'll get run over going that slow around here. Then the real kicker. The 100-150 miles at less than 60 MPH need to be contiguous! They can be a little at a time, with breaks between the miles, but go over 60 MPH and...start over from 0.... So thought I would throw this one out there to see if it sounds familiar to anyone, and if there might be a way by dealer can do something to get around this issue. Really...less then 60 MPH around here and I'll get run over by a Semi... Thoughts anyone? Hey Skip I had to deal with this last fall.I was told i did not have enough miles on my car and that i needed to drive it more.(It had 5200 miles on it at the time and it was 2 years old) They also said if I didn't want to drive it every day to start the car at least once a day.I said it's not gonna happen on either account. So long story short they gave me a two year extension.It will be due in Oct.2012.So we will see what happens then.... I'm not sure how many miles needs to be on the car for the sensors to register with their computer I should say my car did not actually fail the test it just came back as incomplete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks all. I'll know in about a week or so if the driving is enough as it will take through Saturday to get a good chunk of miles on the 'stang. If it's the tune, I can always put it back to stock for the test. But if that was it, I would have think a number of '07s or '08s would have run into this and had to go back to stock. The emissions test printout could be canned, but says.. Your vehicle did not pass inspection because the on-board computer is "Not Ready" to determine the status of the pollution control systems on the vehicle. Drive your vehicle for 1-2 weeks under normal conditions, including some highway driving. You may also contact your vehicle manufacturer for detailed information regarding completing the "drive cycle" on your vehicle. We'll see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eagledriver Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Hmmm, here in PA if you drive less than 5K miles per year you are exempt from the emissions testing. You could be running straight O/R exhaust and as long as you are under that magic 5K miles you get a free pass. That being said I had my KR tested along with the annual general safety inspection. It has 700 miles on it and it passed fine. It had 4 miles on it since I reconnected the battery and got it out of winter storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apachefixer Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks all. I'll know in about a week or so if the driving is enough as it will take through Saturday to get a good chunk of miles on the 'stang. If it's the tune, I can always put it back to stock for the test. But if that was it, I would have think a number of '07s or '08s would have run into this and had to go back to stock. The emissions test printout could be canned, but says.. Your vehicle did not pass inspection because the on-board computer is "Not Ready" to determine the status of the pollution control systems on the vehicle. Drive your vehicle for 1-2 weeks under normal conditions, including some highway driving. You may also contact your vehicle manufacturer for detailed information regarding completing the "drive cycle" on your vehicle. We'll see... Had the exact same issue with a 2004 Mach 1 after I came back from Iraq. Battery died while I was gone. Replaced it and tried to get the emissions test. Could not because some sensors were "Not Ready". Mechanic gave me the AllData drive cycle procedure. it included multiple starts and stops. Half throttle acceleration to 60 MPH, Cruise at various speeds for specific times and deceleration from 60 MPH to 30 MPH without using brakes. Followed this procedure and passed with no problems. Maybe a local dealership could give you this info. Completed mine early on a Sunday morning to keep from getting run over. http://ratstangrestoration.com/drive-cycle.pdf This is a link to the procedure I used. Just follow the driving portions, don't worry about having a scan tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Krider Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 It's your tune thats causing this , usually shows up as secondary o2 N/S or catalyst N/S . I have an 08 and ran into this same issue. I had to reinstall the stock intake tube and airbox and reload the stock tune. Even tho I have the 2.6 pulley on the blower you can still drive the car with the stock tune as long as you stay out of boost . Drive it for about 20 miles and it should set sensors and pass test . Then change back to your C&L and reload aftermarket tune . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcthorne Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks all. I'll know in about a week or so if the driving is enough as it will take through Saturday to get a good chunk of miles on the 'stang. If it's the tune, I can always put it back to stock for the test. But if that was it, I would have think a number of '07s or '08s would have run into this and had to go back to stock. The emissions test printout could be canned, but says.. Your vehicle did not pass inspection because the on-board computer is "Not Ready" to determine the status of the pollution control systems on the vehicle. Drive your vehicle for 1-2 weeks under normal conditions, including some highway driving. You may also contact your vehicle manufacturer for detailed information regarding completing the "drive cycle" on your vehicle. We'll see... Its your tune. Driving 2 weeks will just delay this, will not fix it. Also there is no minimum miles to drive per year for this to pass. Just has to clear all tests since the battery or PCM was reset. You do NOT need to go back to stock. You need to get with whomever tuned your car and have it done correctly. If they turned off the rear o2 sensors it will not pass. There is no reason to do this on an emissions legal IE cats still installed, car. My 07 is tuned by VMP and passes this test just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Just drive it you have to get the heat in the cats stable to "turn on the sensors" there is nothing wrong with your car or tune it just needs to be driven untill all sensors are ready. if you want go to the auto parts store and have them scan it there is a obd2 emission test on most scanners that will tell you what is not ready!!!! DO nNOT HAQVE THE AUTO PARTS STORE RESET YOUR COMPUTER THOUGH IT WILL ZERO OUT AGAIN AND RESET ALL YOUR SENSORS AND YOU WILL HAVE TO COMPLETE THE DRIVE CYCLES... In nevada the dmv has a page that tells you approx driving conditions to activate emessions sensors here is an example from FORD Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle Description of OBDII Drive Cycle The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the OBDII monitors and to clear the Ford P1000, I/M readiness code. To complete a specific monitor for repair verification, follow steps 1 through 4, then continue with the step described by the appropriate monitor found under the "OBDII Monitor Exercised" column. When the ambient air temperature is outside 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F), or the altitude is above 2438 meters (8000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 code must be cleared in these conditions, the PCM must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be "bypassed" and the P1000 cleared. The Evap "bypassing" procedure is described in the following drive cycle. The OBDII Drive Cycle will be performed using a scan tool. Consult the instruction manual for each described function. NOTE: A detailed description of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset is found in this section, refer to the table of contents. Drive Cycle Recommendations: Most OBDII monitors will complete more readily using a "steady foot" driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a "smooth" fashion will minimize the time required for monitor completion. Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 fill with 3/4 fill being the most desirable. The Evaporative Monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize "fuel slosh". WARNING STRICT OBSERVANCE OF POSTED SPEED LIMITS AND ATTENTION TO DRIVING CONDITIONS ARE MANDATORY WHEN PROCEEDING THROUGH THE FOLLOWING DRIVE CYCLES. For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible: OBDII Monitor Exercised Drive Cycle Procedure Purpose of Drive Cycle Procedure Drive Cycle Preparation 1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset. Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status. 2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off. 3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F). Prep for Monitor Entry 4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM. HEGO 5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor. EVAP 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F)) Catalyst 7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor. EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor. SEC AIR/CCM (Engine) 9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM. CCM (Trans) 10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM. Misfire & Fuel Monitors 11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor. Readiness Check 12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines if any monitor has not completed. Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check 13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor. Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed. Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000. Evap Monitor "Bypass" 14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1. Allow the "bypass" counter to increment to two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 There you go - spoken with the voice of actual authority... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 The 60mph thing is bogus, but I have heard the fuel tank can't be too full or too empty, or the evap readiness test won't get run. Basically the pcm needs to run checks no all the emissions systems before it can give a completed and you can pass an obd2 inspection, the battery disconnect or a pcm reflash with a tuner clears all these checks so they need 50-100mph to run again. Hey Justin. Had to read this closer to get it. So I have my SCT-X3 Tuner with my VMP Tune on it. So if I re-flash the fune it will clear this up? That would be sooo much easier. If so, would I need to flash it back to stock, then re-flash the custom tune, or just re-flash the fune that is in there. Also wondering if there is a way with the SCT-X3 to tell if the computer has changed from "Not Ready" to "Ready". Thanks as always and VMP Rocks! Update - My dealer did not have a "procedure" to follow. Just said drive 40 miles in normal city driving, and 40 miles of normal highway driving (but nothing about having to be below 60 MPH). Key is to have it between 3/4 full and 1/4 full. It would be still be great to know if the SCT-X3 had a way to tell if/when it changes from "No Ready" to "Ready" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Hey Justin. Had to read this closer to get it. So I have my SCT-X3 Tuner with my VMP Tune on it. So if I re-flash the fune it will clear this up? That would be sooo much easier. If so, would I need to flash it back to stock, then re-flash the custom tune, or just re-flash the fune that is in there. Also wondering if there is a way with the SCT-X3 to tell if the computer has changed from "Not Ready" to "Ready". Thanks as always and VMP Rocks! Update - My dealer did not have a "procedure" to follow. Just said drive 40 miles in normal city driving, and 40 miles of normal highway driving (but nothing about having to be below 60 MPH). Key is to have it between 3/4 full and 1/4 full. It would be still be great to know if the SCT-X3 had a way to tell if/when it changes from "No Ready" to "Ready" EVERY TIME you reflash... your cars computer is reset !!!!and you will HAVE to repeat the drive cycle procedure!!!!!!!!! auto parts stores have a code scanner that will check your IM status. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpmcobra Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 That's why it's great living here in Pennsylvania. You put less then 5000 miles a year on the vehicle it is exempt from the emmissions test. Sorry did'nt see the earlier post from PA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zporta Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 i wish that was my case, ill be dreading that notice in the mail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 EVERY TIME you reflash... your cars computer is reset !!!!and you will HAVE to repeat the drive cycle procedure!!!!!!!!! auto parts stores have a code scanner that will check your IM status. Thanks much! Unfortunately I called a couple of Auto-Zone's around here and they have no idea what I'm talking about that I was told they could do, or sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Closing the loop on this one. I checked with the techs in the shop at my dealer and was told the key is to put 40 miles of City-Driving and 40 miles of highway driving on it (saying the not going over 60 MPH was nothing he had heard of before). With a key being to have the tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full during that time. So off I went. Put 40 City and 40 Highway miles on it. Have to admit, I did not go over 60 MPH when on the highway (not an easy thing to do around here) just in case that was important. Poof...just passed emissions! :D So closing the loop here in case it helps someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twawsico Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Digging up this old thread to add a note in case it helps someone in future searches. I just got this from the 2008 manual, and the manual for my 2013 says the same so hopefully it applies to all late-model Mustangs. To tell if your car is ready for inspection/emissions or not: "To determine if the vehicle is ready for I/M testing, turn the ignition key to the ON position for 15 seconds without cranking the engine. If the Service engine soon indicator blinks eight times, it means that the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing; if the Service engine soon indicator stays on solid, it means that the vehicle is ready for I/M testing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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