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3.73 Gear Noise


Shelbyville

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So I take it a noise set can be fixed.

 

 

Sure, should be able to!

 

It could be the pinion depth (how the pinion meshes with the ring/crown gear ,too deep or too shallow), it could be pinion bearing pre-load (too tight), it could be carrier side bearing pre-load (too tight or too lose), it could be back-lash (the clearnece between the pinion gear and the ring gear), it could be a multitude of things.

 

They're all adjustable. Some are easy to adjust (pinion bearing pre-load) and some are a real bitch (carrier bearing pre-load). Carrier bearing pre-load may require you to pull the carrier out 10 time before you get it right, if you don't know what you're doing (i.e. have a lot of experience). You set the pre-load with a shim pack and when you set the pre-load with a shim, it might change the backlash because you moved the carrier (which the ring gear bolts to) off to one side just a hair...

 

Some guys still try to set back-lash with a paper sack (that was OLD school). The right way to do it is with a damn dial indicator with a magnetic base. Pinion bearing pre-load: If you overdo it the first time there is a crush sleeve that you have to REPLACE because you crushed the first (new) one too far.

 

I always used the old motto/creedo "measure twice, cut (tighten) once" that Carpenters so often tell you. You can cut a piece of wood shorter that you first did but you can NOT cut it longer. The same applies with a crush sleeve...once you crush it beyond where it was supposed to be crushed (too short), you gotta get a new one. You can make it shorter (crush it farther) but you can NOT make it longer! Crush sleeves are cheap so there shouldn't be a problem if a guy crushes it too much...just get another one!

 

 

Phill

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ask the tech to show you all of the critical measurements with his precision instruments needed to install the gears, and have him mark the gear pattern on the gears and you take a picture of it, post the spec'd numbers he shows you (i mean actually shows you on the car while you are watching), post the pics, and numbers and these master techs on here can call b.s. for sure. you paid, you have the right to see for yourself, or get your money back.

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Sure, should be able to!

 

It could be the pinion depth (how the pinion meshes with the ring/crown gear ,too deep or too shallow), it could be pinion bearing pre-load (too tight), it could be carrier side bearing pre-load (too tight or too lose), it could be back-lash (the clearnece between the pinion gear and the ring gear), it could be a multitude of things.

 

They're all adjustable. Some are easy to adjust (pinion bearing pre-load) and some are a real bitch (carrier bearing pre-load). Carrier bearing pre-load may require you to pull the carrier out 10 time before you get it right, if you don't know what you're doing (i.e. have a lot of experience). You set the pre-load with a shim pack and when you set the pre-load with a shim, it might change the backlash because you moved the carrier (which the ring gear bolts to) off to one side just a hair...

 

Some guys still try to set back-lash with a paper sack (that was OLD school). The right way to do it is with a damn dial indicator with a magnetic base. Pinion bearing pre-load: If you overdo it the first time there is a crush sleeve that you have to REPLACE because you crushed the first (new) one too far.

 

I always used the old motto/creedo "measure twice, cut (tighten) once" that Carpenters so often tell you. You can cut a piece of wood shorter that you first did but you can NOT cut it longer. The same applies with a crush sleeve...once you crush it beyond where it was supposed to be crushed (too short), you gotta get a new one. You can make it shorter (crush it farther) but you can NOT make it longer! Crush sleeves are cheap so there shouldn't be a problem if a guy crushes it too much...just get another one!

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

I feel the pain with the pinion bearing pre-load I have a stack of used crush sleeves.

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Car is back home. Went to the dealership on Sat., took the information from this forum plus some other info I had and requested the job be done correctly. Yesterday when I got home around 8:00 had a bunch of calls on the answer machine telling me in no uncertain terms to come get the car, its in the way. They did not call the number I had given them which was my work number. Took off work today and went up to get the car. When I got there I asked what had been done to the car and they said NOTHING HAD BEEN DONE. (my guess is since in their opinion the work was done correctly there was no reason to do anything) Why they let the car sit there for a week is a mystery. At one point the service writer tried to tell me there was no record of me being at the dealership on Sat.

 

I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

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Car is back home. Went to the dealership on Sat., took the information from this forum plus some other info I had and requested the job be done correctly. Yesterday when I got home around 8:00 had a bunch of calls on the answer machine telling me in no uncertain terms to come get the car, its in the way. They did not call the number I had given them which was my work number. Took off work today and went up to get the car. When I got there I asked what had been done to the car and they said NOTHING HAD BEEN DONE. (my guess is since in their opinion the work was done correctly there was no reason to do anything) Why they let the car sit there for a week is a mystery. At one point the service writer tried to tell me there was no record of me being at the dealership on Sat.

 

I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

 

 

That sucks! :redcard:

 

Sorry to hear they aren't stepping up. It's very disappointing...

Good luck and keep us updated on the progress.

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I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

 

 

From the sound of it, they got pissed at all the "information" you gave them that contridicted their stance that "they all do that".

 

Do you have a driveline specialty shop in your area? One that specializes in intalling rear gear-sets?

 

I'd take it to a indy before I EVER took it to a dealership. I won't get into the "why's and why nots" right now, but the first thing you can deduce is that a shop that SPECIALIZES in rear ends is going to have Tech's that work there that have A. done their fair share of rear gear set-ups and B. aren't paid min. wage (so they WILL do the job right, the first time).

 

It shouldn't cost you much in parts. A few shims, maybe a crush sleeve, and that's it...unless they overloaded a bearing or two and even then bearing cups/cones are not THAT much.

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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I feel very fortunate with my FFRP 3.73 gear swap this past tuesday. Alternative Auto (all Mustang shop) in Michigan did the work. The tech has 8 years experience and does 1-3 mustang gear swaps a week. He let me watch and photo the install. A Torque wrench was used on all bolts including my rims. He cleaned everything to perfection. Backlash was set at .008 and the pattern was excellent and at my request he installed a new bearing and seals.

 

I supplied Amsoil 75-140 diff fluid and Amsoil Slip Lock modifier. Out the door price was $600 cash plus a cool T-shirt , in addition they swapped my trans oil with my supplied Amsoil ATF synthectic at no extra cost. Lidio the owner said that I pay only when satisfied after a 6 mile test drive.

 

The gears are factory quiet with only a very slight whine at 70-73 mph, nothing before or after. I am quite satisfied with the gear, install and new performance.

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Car is back home. Went to the dealership on Sat., took the information from this forum plus some other info I had and requested the job be done correctly. Yesterday when I got home around 8:00 had a bunch of calls on the answer machine telling me in no uncertain terms to come get the car, its in the way. They did not call the number I had given them which was my work number. Took off work today and went up to get the car. When I got there I asked what had been done to the car and they said NOTHING HAD BEEN DONE. (my guess is since in their opinion the work was done correctly there was no reason to do anything) Why they let the car sit there for a week is a mystery. At one point the service writer tried to tell me there was no record of me being at the dealership on Sat.

 

I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

 

 

Send them the bill they will file it in the lost and never found

 

circular file. Then if they are true butt wipe’s they will attach a note about you and or your car on the ford service computer system that will not help you and follow you car everywhere you take it.

 

Best bet, find a dealer in your area based on recommendation or take it to a non-ford shop. Get the gear re-installed correctly document the old backlash and as well as the corrected back lash.

Write a letter to Ford with copies, ask for your refund -good luck-then call and file a complaint and post up the results for the world to see.

 

FMC pays attention to complaints, paper complaints can get lost in the circulare filed. Phone call are recorded making harder for them to get lost in the circulare file.

 

Been down the shitty Ford dealer road, I hope you find a good service provider.

 

 

A good dealer is worth its weight in gold, we need to Post/ Serve up who they are so others can patronize them.

 

Bad dealer are not worth the time it takes to say their names, We need to expose them so others can avoid them.

 

 

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Car is back home. Went to the dealership on Sat., took the information from this forum plus some other info I had and requested the job be done correctly. Yesterday when I got home around 8:00 had a bunch of calls on the answer machine telling me in no uncertain terms to come get the car, its in the way. They did not call the number I had given them which was my work number. Took off work today and went up to get the car. When I got there I asked what had been done to the car and they said NOTHING HAD BEEN DONE. (my guess is since in their opinion the work was done correctly there was no reason to do anything) Why they let the car sit there for a week is a mystery. At one point the service writer tried to tell me there was no record of me being at the dealership on Sat.

 

I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

 

 

Send them the bill they will file it in the lost and never found

 

circular file. Then if they are true butt wipe’s they will attach a note about you and or your car on the ford service computer system that will not help you and follow you car everywhere you take it.

 

Best bet, find a dealer in your area based on recommendation or take it to a non-ford shop. Get the gear re-installed correctly document the old backlash and as well as the corrected back lash.

Write a letter to Ford with copies, ask for your refund -good luck-then call and file a complaint and post up the results for the world to see.

 

FMC pays attention to complaints, paper complaints can get lost in the circulare filed. Phone call are recorded making harder for them to get lost in the circulare file.

 

Been down the shitty Ford dealer road, I hope you find a good service provider.

 

 

A good dealer is worth its weight in gold, we need to Post/ Serve up who they are so others can patronize them.

 

Bad dealer are not worth the time it takes to say their names, We need to expose them so others can avoid them.

 

 

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Car is back home. Went to the dealership on Sat., took the information from this forum plus some other info I had and requested the job be done correctly. Yesterday when I got home around 8:00 had a bunch of calls on the answer machine telling me in no uncertain terms to come get the car, its in the way. They did not call the number I had given them which was my work number. Took off work today and went up to get the car. When I got there I asked what had been done to the car and they said NOTHING HAD BEEN DONE. (my guess is since in their opinion the work was done correctly there was no reason to do anything) Why they let the car sit there for a week is a mystery. At one point the service writer tried to tell me there was no record of me being at the dealership on Sat.

 

I am pondering my next move, perhaps finding a Ford dealer that CAN do it right and then send the bill to the first dealer?

 

Bottom line: if you care about your car and want the job done right DO NOT take it to Skillman Ford in Greenwood!

 

 

Send them the bill, they will file it in the lost and never found circular file. Then if they are true butt wipe's they will attach a note about you and or your car on the ford service computer system that will not help you and follow you car everywhere you take it.

 

Best bet, find a dealer in your area based on recommendation or take it to a independent shop. Get the gear re-installed correctly document the old backlash and as well as the corrected back lash.

Write a letter to Ford with copies, ask for your refund -good luck-then call the FMC hot line and file a complaint and post up the results for the world to see.

 

FMC pays attention to complaints, paper complaints can get lost in the circular filed. Phone calls are recorded, making it harder for them to get lost in the circular file.

 

Been down the shitty Ford dealer road, I hope you find a good service provider.

A good dealer is worth its weight in gold, we need to serve them up so others can patronize them.

Bad dealer are not worth the time it takes to say their names, we need to expose them so others can avoid them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Over the winter I had the Ford dealer install several items on the car one of which was 3.73s. When the weather cleared I took the car out for a test and the noise from the rear end was terrible. When I called to make an appt. to take the car in the service writer said noise from the rear end was completely normal (said it will sound like a bearing going out) and that it will take 750 miles of gentle driving for the gears to wear in. The car is going in this afternoon. Opinions on what I should tell him? I know a ton of you on here have put in 3.73s - were they that noisy?

 

P. S. They were FRPP gears

 

 

hi any further update on your rear end problem? Are they covering under warranty? I'm going thru the same thing with 372 ford racing gears.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Time to update this thread. Before the Dearborn trip I took the car to a small town Ford dealer (how small, you ask? they have exactly ONE mustang on the new car lot) that has a tech that likes mustangs and drives a 2008 GT. He listened to my story, knew exactly what was wrong and had the car fixed inside of two hours. While there is no way to know for sure, his opinion is that the original dealer REUSED the crush sleeve thus screwing up the pinion setting. The oil they drained out looked terrible and the race from the bearing on the pinion was pitted and scarred. I put ~ 1000 miles on the car to and from Dearborn at speeds up to (somewhat) :) over 100 MPH and never heard a peep from the gears. He even found a vibration in the driveshaft and got it replaced under warranty :D

 

Now - what do you suppose the odds are that I can get the bill paid by dealer #1?

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Time to update this thread. Before the Dearborn trip I took the car to a small town Ford dealer (how small, you ask? they have exactly ONE mustang on the new car lot) that has a tech that likes mustangs and drives a 2008 GT. He listened to my story, knew exactly what was wrong and had the car fixed inside of two hours. While there is no way to know for sure, his opinion is that the original dealer REUSED the crush sleeve thus screwing up the pinion setting. The oil they drained out looked terrible and the race from the bearing on the pinion was pitted and scarred. I put ~ 1000 miles on the car to and from Dearborn at speeds up to (somewhat) :) over 100 MPH and never heard a peep from the gears. He even found a vibration in the driveshaft and got it replaced under warranty :D

 

Now - what do you suppose the odds are that I can get the bill paid by dealer #1?

Interesting. So he corrected the problem after your dearborn trip? I have the same issue... Got gears put in right before the event. Loud from 65-73MPH. Need to take back...

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Interesting. So he corrected the problem after your dearborn trip? I have the same issue... Got gears put in right before the event. Loud from 65-73MPH. Need to take back...

 

 

 

Hey Farmdog! Nice to finally meet you at Dearborn!

 

No, problem was taken care of before the trip. The noise would have been completely unbearable on a drive that long. They were noisy all the time, louder with increasing speed. Literally sounded like a bearing with NO lube.

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  • 2 weeks later...

What is the difference between installation kits??? I notice three different options on ford racing parts direct website.

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/category_s/223.htm

What is the best option for the ford racing 3.73's:

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/Ford_Racing_8_8_3_73_gear_set_p/m-4209-f373n.htm

do I also need to buy a rebuild kit??

Looking at american mustangs website there was this option

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-373-0510gt.html

Thanks

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All 3 links show up as dead links on my computer.

EDIT for spelling error.

 

Phill

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Just had FRPP 3.73s installed a couple weeks ago and they are whisper quiet. I call BS on the "break-in" theory. I know guys who have installed new gears and raced on the same day. If installed properly, then they should not whine... or at least not to the degree that you have described.

 

+1, broke mine in with a smoky burn out.

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For those fighting ignoramous techs @ dealerships...

 

Find a good offroad truck shop in your area. Most are used to regearing axles and rebuilding them and can properly install gearsets without issue.

 

 

 

Yep, absolutely a great tip, a lot of off road shops are excellent choices for gear installations, setting pinion angles and diagnosing drive train vibrations. I don't take my vehicles in for service very often but when I do I give my money to a local off road shop. They straightened out my Excursion after the dealer screwed up an alignment job.

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I took my Shelby out to California a few weeks ago. When I was driving back home, there was a noise coming from the rear end that sounded like an old washing machine.

 

I took it into the dealer to have checked out. The service writer called me and asked me who installed the 3.73 gears in my car. I told him that his dealership did a few years ago. He said the gears have gone bad and he wanted $1800 to put the factory 4.10 gears back in. After damn near having a heart attack, I told him I will pick my car up.

 

I bought a new 3.73 ring and pinon along with a Ford Racing stainless rear diff cover for $300. I also found a driveline shop to do the install for around $325.

 

I will get it done next week and will keep an update on the new gears.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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