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What is wrong with my transmission?


Salar
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I can't put it into reveres, press the clutch pedal to the floor, and it wouldn't go into reveres, and if I push the gear leaver harder it grinds... I got no reveres gear. What is the problem?

 

 

Sounds like it's time for a warranty replacement of the clutch assembly (and tranny rebuilt only if needed) under the GT500 clutch TSB. Dealer will verify using a specific procedure to determine what all needs replacement, They'll now replace with the revised design '10+ organic clutch assembly (nearly identical to the 'vette ZR1) vs the earlier design(s) using the cerametalic clutch. Do some searches and you'll find all the info on the clutch TSB... it's s 'sticky' topic (I don't have the link handy) in the tech section, I beleive.

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I can't put it into reveres, press the clutch pedal to the floor, and it wouldn't go into reveres, and if I push the gear leaver harder it grinds... I got no reveres gear. What is the problem?

 

 

Do you have the stock clutch? If so and you haven't had the recent TSB, sounds to me like your flywheel may have warped and now your syncro's in your tranny might be screwed? If the other gears work, it may not be the clutch at all and it might just be the syncros.

 

Jim

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I can't put it into reveres, press the clutch pedal to the floor, and it wouldn't go into reveres, and if I push the gear leaver harder it grinds... I got no reveres gear. What is the problem?

 

Ford didn't lubricate the input shaft that your clutch disc assembly slides on. As other stated, they ( ford dealership) should do the TSB. If you want to get it going in the meantime, you can push the clutch pedal in several times and free it up, but it will just freeze up again after it sits awhile.

You should be able to get a new clutch and flywheel out of the deal.

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Sounds like the clutch, will it go into reverse with the engine off? Bill

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Sounds like the clutch, will it go into reverse with the engine off? Bill

 

 

Good point.

 

Also, will it go into 1st without any problem? Or do you have to push on the stick for a couple of seconds before it will go into first?

 

If it goes into 1st without ANY problem I'd look at your reverse lock-out solenoid.

 

I had a problem with mine after I pulled it out and reinstalled it for my MGW shifter install. After the install (with engine off) I could not get it to go into R for nothin'. I thought maybe I had my shifter throw too short so I added 2 turns to the shifter. Still no go.

 

I pulled the reverse lock-out solenoid and noticed I could NOT push the plunger in by hand. Not knowing exactly how the solenoid works (to keep you from sticking it in R while moving) I noticed a snap-ring on the plunger. I got my snap-ring pliers out, pulled the snap ring and the plunger came out with a small spring behind it. I pulled them out and looked down the bore to see a small "tang" sticking out. I reached in, pushed the tang in one time then put the spring/plunger back in, replaced the snap ring and could now push the plunger in easily with my thumb.

 

I reinstalled the reverse lock-out solenoid and now I can put it into Reverse without ANY problem.

 

My *suspicion* is that the solenoid may be locking you out but allowing JUST enough fork movemen to allow your reverse gear to touch the counter gear just enough so the teeth touch and grind where normally you would be able to push it past that point and engage the counter gear and reverse gear. I'm thinking that it's acting kind of like a limiter and limiting the throw JUST enough to allow the gears to touch (and therefor grind) but not engage.

 

It's easy to check...just pull the solenoid (the one on the left/drivers side of the trans tailshaft cone) and see if you can push the plunger in. If you can not, pull the snap ring and unbind whatever it is that binds. Reinstall and try it again..

 

However, if you have to "force" the car into 1st, it indicates that the clutch friction disc is NOT completely disengaging. What that does is allow the tranmission input shaft to turn and since your reverse gear does NOT have a syncro on it, there's nothing to syncronize the gears and they grind where as your first (or second, third, forth, fifth and sixth) gear has a snycro and will allow you to get the input shaft to stop by using the syncro as a "brake" (so to speak).

 

If the car goes into reverse with the engine off, it is NOT the reverse lock-out solenoid (as I showed with my car as my engine is not running at present) so that's a good place to start.

 

If you can put it in first, then pull it out and IMMEDIATELY put it in reverse, it indicates your clutch is dragging (warped friction plate, bad pressure plate, warped flywheel, bad/binding input shaft bushing/bearing, etc.).

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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