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Fayes 2 Watts link


09TSpony
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Well, I have a stock suspension and I just bit the bullet and purchased a Fayes 2 Watts link through the Shelby store. I am wanting a little more stability around corners since I do not desire to run 1/4 mile runs. Does anyone have any input on additional parts to compliment the watts link. Do I need a UCA? Do I need relocation brackets and LCA? Any help would be appreciated.

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Get a grade 8 bolt to replace the grade 5 bolt used as the propeller bolt!

 

 

I assume that is a more sturdy bolt than the bolt in the kit. Is the shear strength of the stock bolt an issue? Where would you purchase one?

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I have heard of several and witnessed one propeller bolt breaking. (luckily not mine) You should be able to pick one up at the Home Depot or Lowe's of your choice

 

The one I witnessed breaking was on a Terlingua, and not on the track when it broke.

Edited by 07SGT4578
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I have heard of several and witnessed one propeller bolt breaking. (luckily not mine) You should be able to pick one up at the Home Depot or Lowe's of your choice

 

The one I witnessed breaking was on a Terlingua, and not on the track when it broke.

 

 

I will upgrade the bolt. Any other mods that you recommend since I have just a stock suspension? Did you notice a difference after installing the watts link?

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I will upgrade the bolt. Any other mods that you recommend since I have just a stock suspension? Did you notice a difference after installing the watts link?

 

 

I would want to get rid of the hop that is inherent with the stock suspension. Easiest way to do this is at least an UCA but most do UCA and LCAs. I would definitely do this at the same time as the Watts. The other suspension pieces (springs, sway bars and shocks/struts) would be the next step after control arms and Watts in this case. Relocation brackets are for when you lower the car.

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I would want to get rid of the hop that is inherent with the stock suspension. Easiest way to do this is at least an UCA but most do UCA and LCAs. I would definitely do this at the same time as the Watts. The other suspension pieces (springs, sway bars and shocks/struts) would be the next step after control arms and Watts in this case. Relocation brackets are for when you lower the car.

 

 

Any recommendations on LCA's and UCA? I was looking at the unmarked steeda brand.

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OK, I've never even heard of a Watts link. I've read a little bit about them now and kinda understand the purpose it serves. My impression is this is a true add on and not replacement type thing correct?

 

Sorry - don't make fun of the new guy .... :happy feet:

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OK, I've never even heard of a Watts link. I've read a little bit about them now and kinda understand the purpose it serves. My impression is this is a true add on and not replacement type thing correct?

 

Sorry - don't make fun of the new guy .... :happy feet:

 

 

It replaces the panhard rod and brace. I moves the pivot point to the centerline rather than on on edge like the panhard, therefore keeping the rear axle better centered under the car. Also the instant center is adjustable by raising or lowering the pivot point in the center.

 

Mike

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Get a grade 8 bolt to replace the grade 5 bolt used as the propeller bolt!

 

This is one of those times for me to chime in. During initial evaluation of the S197 F2WL, we determined that a grade 5 center pivot bolt would be the correct choice over a grade 8.

 

See http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_12_.html

 

Particularly:

"We found the main PROPELLER BOLT had been bent approximately 2 degress from straight due to the lateral force exerted on the axle during the sideways slide through grass and dirt at high speed. I believe it is a testament to the strength of the components that a .75" diameter hardened bolt actually bent with no effect whatsoever on any other component. I'm not sure you should replace this bolt with an even higher grade, hardened bolt. This occurred due to very unusual circumstances that would be rarely encountered by the majority of users. Further, it's much less expensive, and easier, to replace a bolt than any other component."

 

We decided that under extreme situations the bolt is easier to replace than the entire frame. Now having said that, if any of you know a customer I can contact that did in fact break the grade 5 bolt please let me know so we can revisit our decision. I will say that in 6 years of having our setup on the market we have not heard of the center bolt breaking...including cars involved in accidents.

 

If you do decide to replace the center bolt with a grade 8 make sure you buy a 4.25 or 4.5 inch long bolt and cut it down like we do to insure you have sufficient shoulder length on the bolt for the propeller bearings to ride on.

 

One more issue. Some of you may have noticed that my return phone calls are taking a little extra time to happen (sometimes even a day later). Here's the reason: Through this May and then again this September through December I am taking some additional metallurgy and engineering classes along with some AutoCad and Catia software upgrades to tweak my product decisions and refinements. In the long run it should benefit all of you so thanks for your patience.

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This is one of those times for me to chime in. During initial evaluation of the S197 F2WL, we determined that a grade 5 center pivot bolt would be the correct choice over a grade 8.

 

See http://www.fays2.net...s_link_12_.html

 

Particularly:

"We found the main PROPELLER BOLT had been bent approximately 2 degress from straight due to the lateral force exerted on the axle during the sideways slide through grass and dirt at high speed. I believe it is a testament to the strength of the components that a .75" diameter hardened bolt actually bent with no effect whatsoever on any other component. I'm not sure you should replace this bolt with an even higher grade, hardened bolt. This occurred due to very unusual circumstances that would be rarely encountered by the majority of users. Further, it's much less expensive, and easier, to replace a bolt than any other component."

 

We decided that under extreme situations the bolt is easier to replace than the entire frame. Now having said that, if any of you know a customer I can contact that did in fact break the grade 5 bolt please let me know so we can revisit our decision. I will say that in 6 years of having our setup on the market we have not heard of the center bolt breaking...including cars involved in accidents.

 

If you do decide to replace the center bolt with a grade 8 make sure you buy a 4.25 or 4.5 inch long bolt and cut it down like we do to insure you have sufficient shoulder length on the bolt for the propeller bearings to ride on.

 

One more issue. Some of you may have noticed that my return phone calls are taking a little extra time to happen (sometimes even a day later). Here's the reason: Through this May and then again this September through December I am taking some additional metallurgy and engineering classes along with some AutoCad and Catia software upgrades to tweak my product decisions and refinements. In the long run it should benefit all of you so thanks for your patience.

 

 

Jim, I meant no disrespect in my post, was just trying to inform a potential customer with my experience. PM sent

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Any recommendations on LCA's and UCA? I was looking at the unmarked steeda brand.

 

Here is your suspension upgrade shopping list:

 

1. Shelby Fays2 Watts Link:

BILLET: http://www.shelbysto.../s5m-5649-m.htm

http://www.shelbysto.../s7ma-5649-.htm

http://fays2.net/

 

2. Shelby/Ford Racing Handling Pack, Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit:

Eibach makes the FRPP Sway bars = identical = different color = blue

F: 35mm, R: 24mm

http://www.shelbysto...s7mk-5490-c.htm

 

or:

2A. H&R Front & Rear sway bars: = beefiest on the market.

http://www.maximummo...roducts_id=1270

Front: Part # 70655. 36MM

Rear: Part # 71655. 26MM

 

3. Billet Front Swaybar Mounts: Steeda Part # 555-8113

Only works with the 35mm sway bar, NOT H&R

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

4. Front Sway Bar End links:

Shelby/Scott Drake: Part #: 5S3Z-5A486-R

http://www.shelbysto...s3z-5a486-r.htm

 

5. Steeda Front Swaybar mount brace: Part # 555-5553

Does NOT work with Steeda billet swaybar mounts above.

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

6. FRPP "KR" SHELBY SVT/GT500 STRUT TOWER BRACE: FRPP Part # M-20201-C

http://www.shelbysto...p/m-20201-c.htm

 

7. Steeda Rear LCA's: Part # 555-4406

Billet Rear Control Arms - Spherical Bearings

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

7A. Shelby Rear LCA: Part # Z25-S5MA-5538-A

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/z25-s5ma-5538-a.htm

 

8. Carriage House Engineering (CHE) LCA relocation brackets: Part # CHE1L

http://www.cheperfor...ie/prod-209.htm

 

9. Carriage House Engineering (CHE)

K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters Part # CHE7LA

http://www.cheperfor...ie/prod-208.htm

 

10. Steeda (UCA) Street/Competition Rear Upper 3rd Link: part # 555-4109

http://www.steeda.co...ontrol-arm.html

http://www.fordgt500...read.php?t=6873

 

or

10A. J&M UCA part # 23985 with stock factory mounting bracket

http://www.hotpart.c...uct_detail&p=21

 

11. UCA 2nd bushing that is mounted above the rear differential:

I ordered the Prothane bushing, from CJ Pony.

http://www.cjponypar...5-2011/p/CAB46/

 

Prothane Part Number: 6-315 = Axle Side Kit

Ford replacement part # 5A638

 

12. Maxium Motorsports/Shelby American Caster Camber Plate Kit

http://www.shelbysto...5ma-18183-a.htm

http://www.maximummo...roducts_id=1151

 

13. Tokico D-Spec complete strut/shock kit: Part # DSP-12

http://www.maximummo...products_id=805

 

14. Springs: FRPP PART # M-5300-L, lowers approx 1.25"

Shock & Springs:

http://www.teamshelb...792-new-shocks/

 

FYI: If you lower your GT500, it is highly recommended to trim the rear axle orange rubber bump stops.

 

See zombeat post #28

http://www.teamshelb...06#entry1155706

Edited by dbackg
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Anyone know where I can get the "black" Fays2...there used to be a vendor, but I can't seem to find them anymore.

 

Also, some like the Roush 3rd link. http://store.roushpe...ail.aspx?ID=772

 

 

Call Jim Fay

http://www.fays2.net/

 

I spoke to Jim last week, Thursday.

 

He said black ones will be ready and available in two weeks, April 24th.

 

 

 

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I would want to get rid of the hop that is inherent with the stock suspension. Easiest way to do this is at least an UCA but most do UCA and LCAs. I would definitely do this at the same time as the Watts. The other suspension pieces (springs, sway bars and shocks/struts) would be the next step after control arms and Watts in this case. Relocation brackets are for when you lower the car.

 

 

 

Are you saying that you only need the relocation brackets if you want to lower the car, or when you lower the car? What additional parts/mods does lowering the car require? Right now the suspension on my Dad's GT500 is stock and we're looking to make the rear end more solid and stick to the road better under hard accelerating and cornering. We were originally looking at the Fays2 Watts Link and upper/lower CA's with the relocation brackets for each. Is this the best 1st step in the right direction or do we need to be thinking about more for the rear end?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Are you saying that you only need the relocation brackets if you want to lower the car, or when you lower the car? What additional parts/mods does lowering the car require? Right now the suspension on my Dad's GT500 is stock and we're looking to make the rear end more solid and stick to the road better under hard accelerating and cornering. We were originally looking at the Fays2 Watts Link and upper/lower CA's with the relocation brackets for each. Is this the best 1st step in the right direction or do we need to be thinking about more for the rear end?

 

 

Yes relocation brackets are used when you lower the car or for drag racing setup's. Lowering the car is done by using different (shorter) springs. Sounds like a great first step.

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