Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

New Extreme front brakes installed but leaking.......


notstock
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have an 08 GT-500 with stock wheels and had a professional mechanic install the brakes. When i went to pick it up and was backing up he stopped me as he noticed some brake fluid on the pavement. He removed the passenger side wheel and checked the fittings. All seemed well and it seemed the banjo fitting (top one on the backside of the caliper) was the culprit. I seemed tight but he tightened it some more and i drove home ok. When i got home i noticed the drivers side now leaking........i called him, and i then removed the wheel and the same fitting was good and snug but i tightened it some more carefully. I went for a test drive and when i returned all was well on the drivers side but now the passenger side was leaking again!!!! I removed that wheel and again had to tighten the fitting on the upper back. After another test drive neither one seems to be leaking, but i will need to test drive it again after the rains predicted the next couple of days. My mechanic was surprised as these fittings are aluminum into aluminum and should not have to be tightened that much. No torque settings are in the instructions. So....anyone else had this issue???? Are these fittings designed to be tightened down pretty hard????? They are pretty tight now and hopefully won't still leak, but it's dissapointing after getting them installed, looking so good, and trying to keep brake fluid off my car!! Any input on this much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an 08 GT-500 with stock wheels and had a professional mechanic install the brakes. When i went to pick it up and was backing up he stopped me as he noticed some brake fluid on the pavement. He removed the passenger side wheel and checked the fittings. All seemed well and it seemed the banjo fitting (top one on the backside of the caliper) was the culprit. I seemed tight but he tightened it some more and i drove home ok. When i got home i noticed the drivers side now leaking........i called him, and i then removed the wheel and the same fitting was good and snug but i tightened it some more carefully. I went for a test drive and when i returned all was well on the drivers side but now the passenger side was leaking again!!!! I removed that wheel and again had to tighten the fitting on the upper back. After another test drive neither one seems to be leaking, but i will need to test drive it again after the rains predicted the next couple of days. My mechanic was surprised as these fittings are aluminum into aluminum and should not have to be tightened that much. No torque settings are in the instructions. So....anyone else had this issue???? Are these fittings designed to be tightened down pretty hard????? They are pretty tight now and hopefully won't still leak, but it's dissapointing after getting them installed, looking so good, and trying to keep brake fluid off my car!! Any input on this much appreciated.

 

 

 

Many brake line connections use copper washers to seal. Are they in place on yours?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am in the middle of installing a Baer 6P setup on my gt500. Pretty much the same thing. There is a copper washer on both sides of the banjo fitting that goes into the back of the caliper. They are supposed to be changed out if you take the line off. One time use only. Many people reuse them but I had leaking problems before by reusing them. I would change them out and rebleed the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think i may have given misleading info. The fitting that it seems to be leaking from is the fitting on the top of the inner side of the caliper that has a rubber cap on it.

I think this may be the bleeder? The only other fitting with a rubber cap is on the outside (front) part of the caliper. Does the fitting on the inner side with the rubber cap have to be tightened more?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think i may have given misleading info. The fitting that it seems to be leaking from is the fitting on the top of the inner side of the caliper that has a rubber cap on it.

I think this may be the bleeder? The only other fitting with a rubber cap is on the outside (front) part of the caliper. Does the fitting on the inner side with the rubber cap have to be tightened more?

 

 

Isn't there two bleeders on the caliper? Both on the top. One on the inside and one on the outside, just like the stock Brembo. The bleeders should be under the rubber caps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are correct. The one on the inside/top of the caliper is where the leaking is taking place on both sides. I tightened them a little more than before, and will find out tomorrow if still leaking on either. I just wonder how much you can tighten these??? It's like you can't feel them seat, but they do feel tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great info, thanks. That's only about 7 foot lbs. I just took the old Brembo's out and it took a bit of force to break it loose, but it had a "good feel" when you tighten it as you can tell it's seated. With my Baer, they do not seat like this, it feels like you can just keep tightening them.........i wonder if they just didn't get them seated at the factory....i'll call them as i'm afraid of stripping them. Just my luck, the one area that is supposed to allow fluid to flow, doesn't want to stop it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tightened the inner bleeders some more and i believe the leaks are taken care of. I spoke with a factory rep, and these bleeders are larger than others, and do not give you a "feeling of seating" like you would feel on iron calipers. I did check the inner bleeder on my removed Brembo's and they have a distinct seating feel.......I will keep a close eye on them as heat cycles may warrant a retight. Also, the rep told me that these bleeders can take 15-20 ft lbs, but that's not noted in any instructions, etc, and i don't want to risk stripping them. Whoever does a lot of bleeding with these brakes must just tighten them down pretty well. Thanks to those who responded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tightened the inner bleeders some more and i believe the leaks are taken care of. I spoke with a factory rep, and these bleeders are larger than others, and do not give you a "feeling of seating" like you would feel on iron calipers. I did check the inner bleeder on my removed Brembo's and they have a distinct seating feel.......I will keep a close eye on them as heat cycles may warrant a retight. Also, the rep told me that these bleeders can take 15-20 ft lbs, but that's not noted in any instructions, etc, and i don't want to risk stripping them. Whoever does a lot of bleeding with these brakes must just tighten them down pretty well. Thanks to those who responded.

 

 

Yup I also have the same problem. I don't like bleeding these brakes because they always seem to leak a little for a while. I also have to tighten the crap out of them. I also don't want to strip them so I use a very small wrench. This is one thing they could improve. Keep an eye on them because the brake fluid can stain the caliper paint. Wipe it up immediately. Never had this problem with other calipers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I brought the Shelby in today to have my Extreme brakes installed at my local Ford dealership by a tech there that has worked on my cars in the past. Later in the afternoon, the service writer called and said my car was ready. He also commented to me that the tech told him that the new brakes work great, but the tech said that he really had to torque the bleeder valves down when compared to my previous calipers. Tomorrow I'm picking the car up and I'll talk with the tech to see what he has to say about the bleeder valves.

Edited by springer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies, i know it's not just my calipers now. I've driven it for 20 or so miles now and no leakage. I have a slight stain on one of the caliper's as we didn't immediately know it had an issue. I never dreamed i'd buy a brake system of Supersnake fame and expense and end up having these conversations. If i worked at Shelby i would be chatting with Baer about this issue (hint, hint).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked the Shelby up today and talked with the tech that did the install on my Baer Extremes. He said that there are two bleeder valves on each caliper and that while screwing them in, they had a slot wobble unlike the stock calipers. He said that he had to tighten them more than he thought was necessary before they quit leaking after he finished bleeding the brakes.

 

It sounds like everyone is having the same issues - but they do seal and it doesn't sound like anyone has stripped one out yet.

 

Tomorrow I'm going out and try to "season" the brakes as described on Baer's instruction sheet. It sounds like this is a two day process.

 

By the way, my install was on 18" CS 69 wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked the Shelby up today and talked with the tech that did the install on my Baer Extremes. He said that there are two bleeder valves on each caliper and that while screwing them in, they had a slot wobble unlike the stock calipers. He said that he had to tighten them more than he thought was necessary before they quit leaking after he finished bleeding the brakes.

 

It sounds like everyone is having the same issues - but they do seal and it doesn't sound like anyone has stripped one out yet.

 

Tomorrow I'm going out and try to "season" the brakes as described on Baer's instruction sheet. It sounds like this is a two day process.

 

By the way, my install was on 18" CS 69 wheels.

 

 

Don't forget to put some miles on it first and wear through the coating...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what i was going to say. I was told to put around 300 to 400 normal driving type miles on them, and then go through the detailed process outlined in the instructions. They don't want any hard braking on them for quite a few miles.

 

 

Just want to add that this forum in general has really helped me in working on my car and this thread is no different - was finishing the install of the front extreme brakes on my car yesterday and thought I had everything sealed up, bleeding the brakes and low and behold, two nice puddles, one under each front assembly - both looked to be the inner bleeder valves but in the end it was those two valves and the crossover fittings on the bottom - took several cycles to get them tightened up but so far, no issues

 

So - thanks to the original post and to all those that replied

 

Dave

Edited by stsltd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting that you had problems with the crossover's, but i'm glad you have her ready to roll. I just finished my rotor seasoning this morning (what a pain), and these things really do perform! WOW, i didn't feel the ABS modulating through the pedal at all, just smooth, straight, and quiet. But, when i got home i was cleaning the wheels from brake dust and noticed the right side rotor (the shiny area just above the black hat portion that the brake pad doesn't engage) had small bubbles in a few places! That rotor is also flaking metal pieces, i assume zinc coating. These chips aren't from the rotor portion that engages the pads, but from the top of the rotor. I called Baer and neither of these issues seem to be a problem functionally, but i'm not too keen on the "bubbling cosmetics". Anyone else heard of these issues?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed my Extreme brakes and had the same problem with the bleeding screws leaking. I torqued them to 15 lbs since I'd read this form first and they leaked. I left the Motive pressure bleeder attached with it at 15 lbs and kept checking them for leaking. Each time I found a leaking one I torqued them another 2.5 lbs and cleaned them up. I'm at 25 lbs of torque right now and one or two are still seeping. I'm calling Baer on Monday to see what they say. Maybe new bleeders. The outside one on the passenger side leans ever so slightly like the tapped hole is not straight. I'll ask about that, too.

Edited by parshal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds to me like Baer has a problem with their bleeders. You shouldn't have to torque the crap out of a bleeder to get it to seal. Every bleeder screw that I've ever seen has a seat on the bottom end. Is Baer not manufacturing something correctly? Is the seat on the bleeder not matching the seat in the caliper? I wonder if Wilwood brakes have this problem? It's important to have brakes that don't leak fluid!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I torqued mine to 18 ftlbs, and cleaned them out real good. This worked for me. I only had to deal with the two inner bleeders leaking. I have now put around 400 miles on the car (much in testing), including the rotor seasoning procedure which included six HARD braking sequences, and still no leakage. At 25 ftlbs, i would indeed call Baer as the last thing you want to do is break off a bleeder, and with no instructions provided in the brake kit concerning this issue i would listen to what they have to say about it.

Edited by notstock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I called Baer and spoke with Rick this morning. He said the first time you torque those down it would be in the 20 - 25 ft. lbs. range. He agreed that it's much higher than stock. He said the next time you bleed and retighten it would be in the 15 - 18 ft. lbs. range to keep them from leaking. He also said you need to clean out the center of the bleeder after tightening it down with brake cleaner or light compressed air. He said that's about 1" deep and it will seep up making it look like the bleeder is still seeping.

 

The first time I took mine out I heard what sounded like the front tires rubbing and it got louder/quicker as I drove. I never made it 200 yards from the driveway. I think it may be the heat shields that I bent back so I could keep the brake cooling kit. I asked Baer about that and he said the zinc coating on the rotors will make some strange noises for the first 15 - 20 miles and it could be that but to pay close attention to see if it doesn't go away. I'm figuring it's the brake shields but when I jack up the wheel and spin it all I hear is the rotor dragging on the pads.

 

One other note, after the first drive I saw brake fluid all over the inside of the driver's side wheel. The caliper was leaking at the crossover tube on the bottom of the caliper. I tightened that up pretty good and it's stopped for now. Baer said that that was unusual. He'd seen one like that in the last year but to just tighten it up.

 

I'll report back after I've put some miles on it to see how things hold up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting Parshal. I know my backing plates were removed by my mechanic. I intend to put the new Shelby backing plates/duct kit on it, and per the sales team they will fit with the Extreme brakes. I also had a lot of the rotor coating flaking off but did not experience the noise you are describing. I'd say since i installed these that they are no noisier than the brakes that were removed (quiet).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting Parshal. I know my backing plates were removed by my mechanic.

 

I used a plastic dead-blow hammer to "massage" the backing plate to fit the rotor. I used tin snips to cut the edges near the calipers so they did not touch. I'm going to take another look at it tonight and see what's happening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To keep this discussion going since I also had no instructions - on the outside of the brake calipers are two black bolts, 12 point I believe - mine were completely loose, free spinning - I tightened them but was wondering if they needed to be tightened more and if so how much - going to call Baer this morning but thought I would post up here in case anyone else already has an answer - have anew rattle in the front end now and wondering if it is the calipers

 

thanks

Edited by stsltd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...
...