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What is a must have option for a SGT/SC?


SWEDEMAN

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Brakes, upgraded tensioner, and oil catch can.

 

 

 

 

Chris

 

Brakes for sure, ya gotta stop it once ya get it going. I don't know about the tensioner, I still shredded belts with the Thump-RRR. Catch can makes sense. I know others have spoke of the upgraded intercooler also. I know mine runs pretty warm, needle at about 12:00 on the stock gauge.

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While they have it apart if you want Cam Covers now is the time. I did the Dynotech 1 piece drive-shaft as well. I agree with brakes, all I did was upgrade the lines, pads, and rotors and they are fine for my driving.

 

Good luck, much different machine after you are SC'd!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Brakes for sure, ya gotta stop it once ya get it going. I don't know about the tensioner, I still shredded belts with the Thump-RRR. Catch can makes sense. .

 

 

 

 

I should add this. I have (knock on wood) never had a belt issue. I may have only put 2k miles on it since the blower install, but they were not easy miles. I do have a RRR tensioner, and a SPP support bracket and have never installed either. I have however put a laser on my pulleys and they are all perfectly in line. I will get around to installing them one day. I suggested the tensioner because loads of people have had belt issues. I would really love to have the set up you have. I am just to tight.

 

 

 

 

While they have it apart if you want Cam Covers now is the time. I did the Dynotech 1 piece drive-shaft as well. I agree with brakes, all I did was upgrade the lines, pads, and rotors and they are fine for my driving.

 

Good luck, much different machine after you are SC'd!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

+1

I was waiting on the SA pieces which is why I didn't have mine done at install. Now that I see how big of a pain in the ass it will be to install them I now wish I would have just gone ahead and had the blue ones installed at time of GT/SC conversion.

 

 

 

Chris

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If it's a Whipple, I'd look at the 10-rib kit honestly. If you're like most guys, you'll be shredding belts left and right no matter what tensioner you're running.

It's a decent time to look at aftermarket clutches also, since your stocker will be pushed to it's limits (McLeod RST is a good choice).

Good luck

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Regarding the dreaded "belt shredding" that some of us have experienced, you night want to review my thread on the Gates belts. After about my third belt, we finally determined that my belt was "walking-off" the inside edge of the100mm idler pulley. The sharp edges on the back of the pulley was causing the belt to shred. This pulley is located on the timing chain cover, as well as some of the other pulleys. The pulley can be shimmed from the back to move it out, but short of milling the pulley shoulder of the timing chain cover, you can not move the pulley in closer to the timing chain cover to correct this problem. (You would need to remove the timing chain cover to mill these shoulders.)

 

I had some custom, 100mm pulleys made by Thumperrr Racing which moved the pulley closer to the timing chain cover which centers the belt better and keeps it on the pulley. I also had flanges or "lips" added to the 100mm pulley which also keeps the belt from sliding off the inside of the pulley. Previously, I added the ThumpRRR tensioner arm which is a great addition to remove flex from the belt. Lastly, I purchased a Gatorback 7- rib belt, removed a complete rib, and replaced my Gates belt with the Gatorback.

 

The shredding belts has been a frustration for many of the Whipple 'chargered 4.6L Mustangs. Make sure your belt isn't riding on the backside of the 100mm idler pulley, and the other non-ribbed pulleys, and you should be good to go. Don't forget the ThumpRRR tensioner arm either, which will keep the flex out of your belt. The thread below has photos indicating where the 100mm pulley is located and comparison photos of where the original pulley was riding on the timing chain cover vs where the custom made 100mm ThumpRRR idler pulley fits now.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63906-are-gates-belts-inferior-for-supercharged-whipples/

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Thanks all, I appreciate all the support and help. Is there any other adds that one wished they had done while at SA? Brake ducts, driving lights, Alcoas, etc...etc..? Please chime in. Car goes on Friday, the ETA to be back in my garage is approxiomately 5 weeks, I hope! :)

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Thanks all, I appreciate all the support and help. Is there any other adds that one wished they had done while at SA? Brake ducts, driving lights, Alcoas, etc...etc..? Please chime in. Car goes on Friday, the ETA to be back in my garage is approxiomately 5 weeks, I hope! :)

 

 

 

If you are considering brake ducts, I would go ahead and get them done now, being that it is the only way as of now to get them. Also be advised, if you want driving lights, no brake ducts. They both wont work together, er not well, the heat exchanger gets in the way. Especially if you get the upgraded heat exchanger.

 

 

 

Chris

 

 

 

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If it's a Whipple, I'd look at the 10-rib kit honestly. If you're like most guys, you'll be shredding belts left and right no matter what tensioner you're running.

It's a decent time to look at aftermarket clutches also, since your stocker will be pushed to it's limits (McLeod RST is a good choice).

Good luck

 

if ya go with the 10 rib system you will have to lower the motor slightly, no not enough to use the strut bar. the snout is longer and you will have hood clearance issues.

 

I forgot about the clutch! If you can get an aftermarket twin disc clutch, go for it! I lucked out somewhat, they had the tranny pulled for the synco TSB so the install was cheaper.

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Signature # 1. There's going to be a lot of members disappointed when Mr. Shelby is no longer able to sign signatures. Anything else can be done later. You already have brembos so you already have pretty good brakes. The tensioner from Thumper is easy to install at home. The clutch will certainly be in your future but you could do that when your clutch wears a little more.The dual fan heat exchanger is a great mod that you could use immediately as summer is just around the corner.The skys the limit on mods.Good luck on your install, i know you will be excited about having your new car.

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I installed the Eradispeed+2 Brake Set for the rear of the car. This was done by me at the same time when I upgraded my fronts to the Brembo's. Get the supercharger gauge package. I have been trying to buy one since November of last year and have been told more than once they are out of stock. I have the S/C package and have not upgraded the belt or pulleys yet. The signature is a must have since it's there. Mine left his shop with a signature and so should yours. Good luck and enjoy your new found power. - Kevin

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Brakes for sure. Then Heat exchanger. Then valve covers. But first, Carrolls sig!

 

I'm one that has had zero problems with belts. Close to 8000 trouble-free (spirited) SC miles, now! :happy feet:

Since you already have the Brembos, and since they'll rip apart the front end of your car anyway, I'd go with of the exchanger...

The seats would be very cool too, if they weren't so expensive!

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if ya go with the 10 rib system you will have to lower the motor slightly, no not enough to use the strut bar. the snout is longer and you will have hood clearance issues.

 

I forgot about the clutch! If you can get an aftermarket twin disc clutch, go for it! I lucked out somewhat, they had the tranny pulled for the synco TSB so the install was cheaper.

 

 

Please tell us more about the synco TSB and what it is supposed to fix.

 

TIA

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Please tell us more about the synco TSB and what it is supposed to fix.

 

TIA

 

 

I just had this done on my SGT. The TSB is to replace the syncros in the tranny to fix the gear grinding from 2nd to 3rd gear when the temp is below 50 degrees.

Mine would do it fresh out of the garage on a crisp morning the first time I would make the shift into 3rd....that sound is worse than fingernails on a chalk board!! Even shifting lightly it would still grind hard.

 

I wish I would have thought about the upgrade to the clutch...even though I only have 10,400 miles on it. It would have been a lot easier on the wallet to do it then.

Sure wish I could afford an SC install right now...

 

 

Andy.

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Please tell us more about the synco TSB and what it is supposed to fix.

 

TIA

 

 

I just had this done on my SGT. The TSB is to replace the syncros in the tranny to fix the gear grinding from 2nd to 3rd gear when the temp is below 50 degrees.

Mine would do it fresh out of the garage on a crisp morning the first time I would make the shift into 3rd....that sound is worse than fingernails on a chalk board!! Even shifting lightly it would still grind hard.

 

I wish I would have thought about the upgrade to the clutch...even though I only have 10,400 miles on it. It would have been a lot easier on the wallet to do it then.

Sure wish I could afford an SC install right now...

 

 

Andy.

 

 

not to mention mine use to hang up in the netural gate on both up and down shifts..... scary stuff!

 

here's a .pdf of the TSB....

09-19-17.pdf

09-19-17.pdf

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I was going to put this in the PM, but one of the things I think you'll find you need is.....

 

 

.....

 

....

 

Sticky Tires!

 

With the increased and almost immediate power you get to the rear end you will find that the stock factory tires will have trouble staying connected to the pavement. This can be good or bad. If you want to spin through the set doing burnouts you won't have any trouble. But if you want to accelerate into a left turn merge lane and don't want to do a cookie in the middle of a state highway you might consider some different rubber :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

My car will be leaving soon and I don't want to miss the "must have" option for my car. So SGT/SC owners please chime in and let me know if you had to do it again what option would you put on the SCT/SC while your car was at Shelby?

Thanks-

 

Shelby gauge pod is one of the coolest mods.

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Update: SC installed, 490 RWHP per Shelby dyno. Starting to feel that HP rush already.

 

Just be very very careful Swede.... I've read this on several forums.... and have my own experience... this thing will get away from you in a heartbeat get use to it slowly....

 

borrowed from the wrecked 40th thread.....

 

Someone once said occasional drivers need to drive these cars more often to get a real feel for what they can and can't do. Cobrafan said, ''If you are an occasional driver and get on it in the wrong way, you are in trouble immediately''. Once I get my new daily driver ( CO Boss) I will finally gain experence on how to drive the 40th. I'm really good after four years at sounding like an FI car racing while being parked in the garage.:shift::hysterical: I think this is around the 11th wrecked 40th that we know about, which would be around 5% of all 40ths. This number must be higher than average for any model.:headscratch:

 

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I thank you for your caution and advice information it is very real to me. I have driven and owned many fast and awesome automobiles, but I have never had one that was SC'd with 500 RWHP. The strongest car I have ever had was approximately 425 at the crank and it was extremely fun to drive but I had to repsect it all the time and never let it get away from me. All of my cars have been NA cars with strong HP, very well tolerated cars and I drove them well. I am not shouting out but I feel I know how to drive well and have taken good advice many times that saved my ass. Yes I am excited but very respectful of what almost 500 RWHP can do. I will slowy but surely get used to this car and respect it 100% of the time ....when my foot is in the throttle or not. :hysterical:

But I am upbeat about the newness of this car.

Thanks.

 

EDITED:

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If it's a Whipple, I'd look at the 10-rib kit honestly. If you're like most guys, you'll be shredding belts left and right no matter what tensioner you're running.

It's a decent time to look at aftermarket clutches also, since your stocker will be pushed to it's limits (McLeod RST is a good choice).

Good luck

 

 

If your pullies are actually lined up after the install you wont have any problems with belts..........

 

it is not the tensioner that is the problem..........it is the misalignment of the pullies, specifically the power steering one.........

 

if you shred a belt............especially right after the sc goes on......look their first.......

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If your pullies are actually lined up after the install you wont have any problems with belts..........

 

it is not the tensioner that is the problem..........it is the misalignment of the pullies, specifically the power steering one.........

 

if you shred a belt............especially right after the sc goes on......look their first.......

 

 

+1

Over 7000 miles or smiles since the whipple install, several passes down the 1/4 mile and 2 different track events, and not a single problem.

 

Pulley alignment is crucial.

 

Dan

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I thank you for your caution and advice information it is very real to me. I have driven and owned many fast and awesome automobiles, but I have never had one that was SC'd with 500 RWHP. The strongest car I have ever had was approximately 425 at the crank and it was extremely fun to drive but I had to repsect it all the time and never let it get away from me. All of my cars have been NA cars with strong HP, very well tolerated cars and I drove them well. I am not shouting out but I feel I know how to drive well and have taken good advice many times that saved my ass. Yes I am excited but very respectful of what almost 500 RWHP can do. I will slowy but surely get used to this car and respect it 100% of the time ....when my foot is in the throttle or not. :hysterical:

But I am upbeat about the newness of this car.

Thanks.

 

EDITED:

 

Sorry Swede... I was thinking of myself.... the most powerful car I ever drove was my SGT before being SC'd... afterwords it scared the crap outta me.... have a blast with it man!

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