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Got some work done on my car yesterday...


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Since I either dont have access to the tech section or it got deleted, I will post this here...

 

rear passenger brake ducting that got broke off on the LVMS track is now repainted and fixed. I had carbon trac lock put in, and changed my gearing to 3.55s. Before, with the 3.73s I had surging issues, and driving on the road and track was a little unfriendly due to hitting my rev limiter on the straights in 4th at 120mph. NOW the gearing works much more like it should. Will this translate to a drop in performance? I dont know, but driving it on the road seems like I have all the power I need- I can break loose in 4th gear no problem, but Im shifting into 5th at 75-80 instead of 60. I also changed out the rear exhaust hangers to a more solid piece, as the drivers side finally broke off. The new ones are more of a very hard rubber/plastic as compared to the originals that are way to stretchy. While we had it on the lift, I spent an hour wiping down the wheel wells and under trim with Goof off, (like goo gone) a citrus all natural tar and gunk remover. It worked GREAT! For the final touch up for show appearance, I decided to steal an idea from our great friend Alex Mackenzie, and I now have a painted rear axle. The rust was getting out of hand, and this car hasnt even been in a humid environment.

rustybutt.JPG

 

Also, this one is for you John- The rear hangers will bend under the torque, so I added a brace to the hangers on each side. In addition, once it was adjusted properly, over adjust the driver's side by 3/8 inch, then tack weld the joints right above the axle. Then go really hammer it to let the torque set the pipe where it will settle in. The left side even after welding will drop that 3/8 of an inch in my case. That should fix your problem, John.

hanger.JPG

rustybutt.JPG

hanger.JPG

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Since I either dont have access to the tech section or it got deleted, I will post this here...

 

rear passenger brake ducting that got broke off on the LVMS track is now repainted and fixed. I had carbon trac lock put in, and changed my gearing to 3.55s. Before, with the 3.73s I had surging issues, and driving on the road and track was a little unfriendly due to hitting my rev limiter on the straights in 4th at 120mph. NOW the gearing works much more like it should. Will this translate to a drop in performance? I dont know, but driving it on the road seems like I have all the power I need- I can break loose in 4th gear no problem, but Im shifting into 5th at 75-80 instead of 60. I also changed out the rear exhaust hangers to a more solid piece, as the drivers side finally broke off. The new ones are more of a very hard rubber/plastic as compared to the originals that are way to stretchy. While we had it on the lift, I spent an hour wiping down the wheel wells and under trim with Goof off, (like goo gone) a citrus all natural tar and gunk remover. It worked GREAT! For the final touch up for show appearance, I decided to steal an idea from our great friend Alex Mackenzie, and I now have a painted rear axle. The rust was getting out of hand, and this car hasnt even been in a humid environment.

rustybutt.JPG

 

Also, this one is for you John- The rear hangers will bend under the torque, so I added a brace to the hangers on each side. In addition, once it was adjusted properly, over adjust the driver's side by 3/8 inch, then tack weld the joints right above the axle. Then go really hammer it to let the torque set the pipe where it will settle in. The left side even after welding will drop that 3/8 of an inch in my case. That should fix your problem, John.

hanger.JPG

 

 

Warren,

 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I really hate jumping out of the car and grabbing and pulling up the left pipe to align with the right one every time I stop for a while....it's either that or park on the side of a hill :hysterical:.

 

John

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Warren

 

Please keep me posted on the gear change. I can drive around the "surging" you describe but it was a bit of a pia. If the new gearing works well on the track and the street, please let me know. I can have this repair done while doing the other repairs.

 

For all in nicer climates, go for a ride for me. My ford transit connect and '99 ranger are just not cutting it. :angry22:

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Since I either dont have access to the tech section or it got deleted, I will post this here...

 

rear passenger brake ducting that got broke off on the LVMS track is now repainted and fixed. I had carbon trac lock put in, and changed my gearing to 3.55s. Before, with the 3.73s I had surging issues, and driving on the road and track was a little unfriendly due to hitting my rev limiter on the straights in 4th at 120mph. NOW the gearing works much more like it should. Will this translate to a drop in performance? I dont know, but driving it on the road seems like I have all the power I need- I can break loose in 4th gear no problem, but Im shifting into 5th at 75-80 instead of 60. I also changed out the rear exhaust hangers to a more solid piece, as the drivers side finally broke off. The new ones are more of a very hard rubber/plastic as compared to the originals that are way to stretchy. While we had it on the lift, I spent an hour wiping down the wheel wells and under trim with Goof off, (like goo gone) a citrus all natural tar and gunk remover. It worked GREAT! For the final touch up for show appearance, I decided to steal an idea from our great friend Alex Mackenzie, and I now have a painted rear axle. The rust was getting out of hand, and this car hasnt even been in a humid environment.

rustybutt.JPG

 

Also, this one is for you John- The rear hangers will bend under the torque, so I added a brace to the hangers on each side. In addition, once it was adjusted properly, over adjust the driver's side by 3/8 inch, then tack weld the joints right above the axle. Then go really hammer it to let the torque set the pipe where it will settle in. The left side even after welding will drop that 3/8 of an inch in my case. That should fix your problem, John.

hanger.JPG

 

 

Warren,

 

Thanks for the update !

Gimme your feedback on the carbon Trac Lock. After my near-miss with my diff at the Bash, I started shopping, and the Eaton True Trac was calling out to me... BTW, did I tell you I figured out my clicking sound? I gotta type the story for you and Jeff to laugh at...

 

Jer

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Warren

 

Please keep me posted on the gear change. I can drive around the "surging" you describe but it was a bit of a pia. If the new gearing works well on the track and the street, please let me know. I can have this repair done while doing the other repairs.

 

For all in nicer climates, go for a ride for me. My ford transit connect and '99 ranger are just not cutting it. :angry22:

 

 

Done!.....It was bit breezy along the coast with an on-shore flow, barely into the 70's, so it's a little wintry here today. But as I stopped and watched the surfers I made a toast for you to Odin that he might help get your car back quickly. Let me know whenever I can help!

 

:hide:

 

John

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Done!.....It was bit breezy along the coast with an on-shore flow, barely into the 70's, so it's a little wintry here today. But as I stopped and watched the surfers I made a toast for you to Odin that he might help get your car back quickly. Let me know whenever I can help!

 

:hide:

 

John

 

 

You da man!! Thanks. I actually think I can hear your Borla - how sweet it is. :roses:

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Warren,

 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I really hate jumping out of the car and grabbing and pulling up the left pipe to align with the right one every time I stop for a while....it's either that or park on the side of a hill :hysterical:.

 

John

 

 

They are still having problems with the left tail pipe leaning? I don’t have my car yet but I gotta tell you it does not sound like the dream car that’s going to ease this waiting pain! I hope I’m wrong.

 

 

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They are still having problems with the left tail pipe leaning? I don't have my car yet but I gotta tell you it does not sound like the dream car that's going to ease this waiting pain! I hope I'm wrong.

 

 

 

I have to agree with you. I have left a message with SAI about this subject to see if they are planning on rectifying this situation now that they are aware of the problem. Guess what................ no response!

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I think he was just going to talk about how the car would blend in with blizzard in Roy, UT he was in the middle of...

 

LOL

 

 

Ya, that and how the parts are falling off your 80K GT 350, OH wait did I really say that, LOL. But really, come on! All in good humor man. I hope if they are having issues they fix it.

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Nothing falling off, just trouble with how much the engine torques on the left exhaust pipe. Even a slight change that you would expect on ANY GT500 or other mustang, is magnified by how close together the tailpipes are on the 350. My pipes were no less even on my gt500, but you just couldnt tell unless you put a level on it or looked at it from the side at 10 inches off the ground.

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Yeah, a clamp is only going to have so much it can do against the twisting motion of the engine, so it is completely understandable that this is an issue. Think about it like this, if you drove a GT500 back to the dealer and told them the exhaust pipes were off by 3/8 of an inch, they would probably laugh you out of the shop. Heck, you can barely find a dealer that will cover known issues with TSBs...I never did find one that would perform the vert top TSB because mine was wearing prematurely.

 

Now, I do think BORLA could have done two things just a little bit better-

1. The rear hangers are not thick enough to keep from bending under heavy torque, so I had to add a secondary brace

2. The hanger clips are to stretchy, and so I went with a more solid rubber fitting

 

SA didnt design the exhaust, Borla did, so fingerpointing should be done towards the correct designers of this. Its just one of those things that you would like to see a little bit better on the cars, but any good mod shop with a welder can easily fix by welding the pipe joint above the axle.

 

Under heavy acceleration, my left pipe also makes contact with the rear axle, so I believe my pipes need some complete readjusting. I'll get that done this week. Makes for an annoying little rattling noise under WOT.

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Ya, that and how the parts are falling off your 80K GT 350, OH wait did I really say that, LOL. But really, come on! All in good humor man. I hope if they are having issues they fix it.

 

 

So, what color Prius do you drive?

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Hearing alot about the problem with the sagging exhaust alot on this forum ,with the cost of this car I would hope they are fixing this problem before they are sending these cars out

to people knowing that the problem exists! I dont think Shelby would like to hear about how his car has a sagging tail pipe problem with his name on it? Hope we hear something about what they are doing to take care of this problem!:shrug:

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Yeah, a clamp is only going to have so much it can do against the twisting motion of the engine, so it is completely understandable that this is an issue. Think about it like this, if you drove a GT500 back to the dealer and told them the exhaust pipes were off by 3/8 of an inch, they would probably laugh you out of the shop. Heck, you can barely find a dealer that will cover known issues with TSBs...I never did find one that would perform the vert top TSB because mine was wearing prematurely.

 

Now, I do think BORLA could have done two things just a little bit better-

1. The rear hangers are not thick enough to keep from bending under heavy torque, so I had to add a secondary brace

2. The hanger clips are to stretchy, and so I went with a more solid rubber fitting

 

SA didnt design the exhaust, Borla did, so fingerpointing should be done towards the correct designers of this. Its just one of those things that you would like to see a little bit better on the cars, but any good mod shop with a welder can easily fix by welding the pipe joint above the axle.

 

Under heavy acceleration, my left pipe also makes contact with the rear axle, so I believe my pipes need some complete readjusting. I'll get that done this week. Makes for an annoying little rattling noise under WOT.

 

Warren,

 

I hear what you're saying about the design/WOT/etc, etc. The issue I have is that I haven't driven the car to the max yet and I have the pipe problem. The pipe drooped just from normal driving on the trip home from SAI. I can pull the pipe back into its correct position and it'll sit there until I drive over a bump and then it falls into it's sagging position.

 

Just this morning I took the car out for a spin and my wife happen to be following me in her car. As soon as I went over a small (and I mean SMALL) dip in the road, she saw the pipe sag. So it had nothing to do with torque, it's just a flaw in the exhaust system that could/should be corrected ahead of time by tack-welding the left pipe or lowering the right pipe so they're both at the same height. Either way it just doesn't seem like we should have to start looking for a repair shop as the first order of business upon receipt of the GT350. And we really don't have any choice because it looks so bad if we don't fix it.

 

Just sayin'.....

 

John

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Agreed, and Im sure SA would be happy to fix it if you bring it to them, but I live too far away for that, and didnt have the patience to wait until the bash to have them fix it because I was hitting car shows and events the second I picked it up. I just couldnt wait and have that issue like that.

 

I also havent had my car in a week, because it has been at a Ford dealer getting Ford issues fixed on it. It had a TSB for a new clutch pedal assembly and a fuel pump issue. They are now having a problem findout why it wont take gas refills. The pump shuts off after 1/10th of a gallon like its full, so filling can take 20 minutes or longer. Mind you, these are Ford issues with 5.0s built before April 15, 2011.

 

Funny side story- They looked up the VIN after telling me that my warranty may be void and I would have to pay for repairs, and as soon as they saw I had a pre-production 5.0, it was all smiles and "we will take care of these issues no problem Mr. Faris". I guess they figured I am somebody if I got a pre prod 5.0, and I didnt correct them on that line of thinking...:hysterical:

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Agreed, and Im sure SA would be happy to fix it if you bring it to them, but I live too far away for that, and didnt have the patience to wait until the bash to have them fix it because I was hitting car shows and events the second I picked it up. I just couldnt wait and have that issue like that.

 

I also havent had my car in a week, because it has been at a Ford dealer getting Ford issues fixed on it. It had a TSB for a new clutch pedal assembly and a fuel pump issue. They are now having a problem findout why it wont take gas refills. The pump shuts off after 1/10th of a gallon like its full, so filling can take 20 minutes or longer. Mind you, these are Ford issues with 5.0s built before April 15, 2011.

 

Funny side story- They looked up the VIN after telling me that my warranty may be void and I would have to pay for repairs, and as soon as they saw I had a pre-production 5.0, it was all smiles and "we will take care of these issues no problem Mr. Faris". I guess they figured I am somebody if I got a pre prod 5.0, and I didnt correct them on that line of thinking...

 

 

Hey,

 

I think you wanted to say April 15th of 2010. Just an FYI.

 

"Mind you, these are Ford issues with 5.0s built before April 15, 2011"

 

By the way, when I purchased my GT500 in 2007, I picked up a Ford Certificate somewhere which had my VIN, number of vehicles built, date built etc, etc... I cannot remember where I got this from after these four years. (sucks getting old) Anybody know where I can get this again, but now for my new Mustang 5.0? Thanks.

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Since I either dont have access to the tech section or it got deleted, I will post this here...

 

rear passenger brake ducting that got broke off on the LVMS track is now repainted and fixed. I had carbon trac lock put in, and changed my gearing to 3.55s. Before, with the 3.73s I had surging issues, and driving on the road and track was a little unfriendly due to hitting my rev limiter on the straights in 4th at 120mph. NOW the gearing works much more like it should. Will this translate to a drop in performance? I dont know, but driving it on the road seems like I have all the power I need- I can break loose in 4th gear no problem, but Im shifting into 5th at 75-80 instead of 60. I also changed out the rear exhaust hangers to a more solid piece, as the drivers side finally broke off. The new ones are more of a very hard rubber/plastic as compared to the originals that are way to stretchy. While we had it on the lift, I spent an hour wiping down the wheel wells and under trim with Goof off, (like goo gone) a citrus all natural tar and gunk remover. It worked GREAT! For the final touch up for show appearance, I decided to steal an idea from our great friend Alex Mackenzie, and I now have a painted rear axle. The rust was getting out of hand, and this car hasnt even been in a humid environment.

post-11131-0-68903600-1296573896_thumb.jpg

 

Also, this one is for you John- The rear hangers will bend under the torque, so I added a brace to the hangers on each side. In addition, once it was adjusted properly, over adjust the driver's side by 3/8 inch, then tack weld the joints right above the axle. Then go really hammer it to let the torque set the pipe where it will settle in. The left side even after welding will drop that 3/8 of an inch in my case. That should fix your problem, John.

post-11131-0-60091000-1296574131_thumb.jpg

 

 

LOL....looking great Warren.....not stealing the idea from me....Ford actually used to paint the rears in our cars until the start of the 99 model year!!! Another trick to keep rubber from stocking to your wheel wells is to spray PIG SPIT in the underside and wheel wells...it protects everything and nothing sticks to it!!! It is available from most Harley dealerships....

 

Alex

 

Alex

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  • 1 month later...

SA didnt design the exhaust, Borla did, so fingerpointing should be done towards the correct designers of this.

 

 

That's odd. Normally, a "manufacturer" comes up with its own specifications which are finalized after a successful prototype/testing program is completed. Bids are taken for the parts contract and not necessarily given to low bidder, but to the one that (in this case) satisfies Shelby's requirements. So, unless the parts that are supplied to Shelby are somehow defective (as in the case of them not meeting Shelby's design criteria) the finger needs to be pointed the other way.

 

Tob

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Borla designed the exhaust, and Shelby chose it. They have found the problem and are working on the fix now. I won't get into the issue until SA decides to announce how they will get the cars out there fixed right, but I spoke with Roger and it sounds like he has a handle on the problem and a strategy to get everyone fixed up without any hassle. As an owner, I was very satisfied by what he told me. Stuff happens, and you have to take new designs with a bit of flexibility and patience.

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Then what you are saying is that Shelby merely purchased an off the shelf exhaust, and was not built to Shelby's specifications.

 

Caveat emptor shouldn't apply here. If it is a common problem, it would seem as if it could/should have been detected during GT350 vehicle development.

 

I thought the parts on this vehicle were somehow unique to the GT350 and not off the shelf parts. My bad.

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Geez dude, dont have such a hard on to blame Shelby! Shelby told them what they wanted and Borla made them...Shelby tells them where the pipes come out and what size and the shape, but none of those things caused the problem, but if the pipes slip and move while clamped, how is that an error Shelby made? Designing pipes goes like this- I want 3" pipes that will fit the chassis of a 2011+ Mustang with dual rear exit at the center of the car with an opening 9" wide in the middle of the rear fascia. You overthink this thing. Its not like Ford, where there are 6 buildings full of staff engineers to figure out the thread count of every bolt. The GT350 is a modded mustang, not a completely scratch designed vehicle.

 

YOUR answer suggests that if I order a custom windshield banner from a graphics guy and the thing doesnt stick to the windshield, it was MY fault because I sent the design of the graphic. Why do you have to be so AaronStiles about this?:hysterical:

 

Now if Shelby told them to make it out of plastic and it melted, or told them to make it out of very thin aluminum, and it bent, then, yeah, that I could see being their fault, but the problem is not either of those things, it has to do with where the pipe joints are slipping.

 

And what does Caveat Emptor have to do with anything other than one less useless phrase from law school I have no more need to remember? as I stated before, Shelby is going to make the cars shipped out right with a change on the midpipes, so the buyer is not left with anything to beware of. Just let them do their thing and it will all be corrected by the time you get your GT350 anyway. :salute:

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Geez dude, dont have such a hard on to blame Shelby!

I'm not "blaming" anyone. Go back and read my posts.

 

 

Shelby told them what they wanted and Borla made them...Shelby tells them where the pipes come out and what size and the shape

So, now you are implying that Shelby did spec the system (however generalized your comments may be)?

 

...but none of those things caused the problem...

I never said they did.

 

 

...but if the pipes slip and move while clamped, how is that an error Shelby made?

Um, based on your comments...remember when you stated the following?

 

1. The rear hangers are not thick enough to keep from bending under heavy torque, so I had to add a secondary brace

2. The hanger clips are to stretchy, and so I went with a more solid rubber fitting

 

Designing pipes goes like this- I want 3" pipes that will fit the chassis of a 2011+ Mustang with dual rear exit at the center of the car with an opening 9" wide in the middle of the rear fascia. You overthink this thing. Its not like Ford, where there are 6 buildings full of staff engineers to figure out the thread count of every bolt.

That isn't designing. That's requesting. And as I stated before, the specifications of which are made by Shelby - unless, as I stated before, the item is a simple off the shelf item.

 

 

The GT350 is a modded mustang, not a completely scratch designed vehicle.

It's a post title modified vehicle - nobody is arguing that point.

 

[sNIP]

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YOUR answer suggests that if I order a custom windshield banner from a graphics guy and the thing doesnt stick to the windshield, it was MY fault because I sent the design of the graphic.

If you contract an item to be manufactured and the item in question fails because of your specification or design then you can't fault the manufacturer for meeting your standards (although there is a lawyer on every street corner that'll try). :speedie:

 

Now if Shelby told them to make it out of plastic and it melted, or told them to make it out of very thin aluminum, and it bent, then, yeah, that I could see being their fault, but the problem is not either of those things, it has to do with where the pipe joints are slipping.

Look, it isn't really that complicated. And nobody is talking about plastic. You already mentioned that you feel that the material used for the hanger wasn't thick enough and as a result was deflecting. I mentioned that "If it was a common problem, it would seem as if it could/should have been detected during GT350 vehicle development" but apparently, Shelby missed it. If the issue isn't unique to you and is fairly common, one would assume that Shelby would develop a cure and/or work with Borla to revise the part used on the GT350.

 

And what does Caveat Emptor have to do with anything other than one less useless phrase from law school I have no more need to remember?

If it is simply a useless phrase that you no longer need to remember, I can't help you with the context here. Hint - if your issue is common, it should have been detected and addressed so you wouldn't have to address it on your own. It wasn't and the world will still stay on its axis.

 

...as I stated before, Shelby is going to make the cars shipped out right with a change on the midpipes, so the buyer is not left with anything to beware of. Just let them do their thing and it will all be corrected by the time you get your GT350 anyway.

 

Good to hear they are addressing the issue you had so others won't have to deal with it. Since I'm not so enamored with this offering, it probably won't keep me up at night reviewing law school Latinese. :spiteful: I like 'em scratch built.

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