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Shelby Oil Pan,

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:shades: When will the Shelby new oil pan be back in stock,are these still going to be made again or not ? Its been awhile since the Shelby Store has had any ,



I strongly suspect this is nothing but a re-badged Moroso oil pan, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/pdf_2011/Mustang_Products.pdf


Google the relevant part number and you will find numerous suppliers for this part.

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I strongly suspect this is nothing but a re-badged Moroso oil pan, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/pdf_2011/Mustang_Products.pdf



My understanding is that it's a Canton but in black.


Either way, I have one on my 2010 GT500 and it's a sweet piece of work.




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How was the install?


Like Curt said, the K-member has to come out. With the right tools, it's a piece of cake.


I don't have a rack, I did mine on 4 jackstands. But I also have a engine support bar to lift & support the engine with while you drop the K-member/subframe.


For some reason my pan would NOT just slip up into place. I had to remove the oil pump pickup tube retainer bolt to move the pick-up SLIGHTLY in order to get the pick-up to fit into the baffle. I did that, held the pan up in place with another jackstand, installed the pick-up retainer tab bolt, tightened it up and then put the pan up in place and bolted it down (putting sealant on the four spots where the seams are on the pan sealing surface).


I suppose you could do it without a engine support brace/bar by using a floor jack and a 4x6, on the front harmonic balancer. You don't *have* to lift the motor, just support it.


Once the engine is supported, it's a piece of cake. Just remove the two bolts that hold the stearing rack to the subframe, the one that holds the stearing shaft to the pinion on the rack and then slide the rack forward and wire it up out of the way (you also need to remove a small bolt holding the P-clip PS hose retainer to the rack).


Remove the two motor mount nuts from above (easily accessable), the two lower ball joint nuts/bolts from either spindle and then just remove the 8 (4 per side) subframe bolts to drop the subframe down. I used a motorcycle jack (the kind you can buy at Sears or Harbor Freight for under 100 bucks) to take the rack out just because I didn't want it coming down on top of me then trying to slide out from under the car with about 60-70 pounds of bulk on me.


I installed a set of headers at the same time and with the K-member out, it made it that much easier. Just pull the starter out and the right side header is just about as easy as it would be on a bench. The left side required I trim a hose clip retainer but with the K-member out, that was cake too.


It's really easy. I've probably made it sound much more difficult than it really is.


A rack *would* be nice but it's not at all hard on the ground.


I'm also replacing my subframe and A-arms with the Shelby tubular pieces so that's another reason to remove it for me.





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