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Congrats on the SS; you're gonna be amazed at the power!

 

Featherlite has open and closed car haulers, and I whole heartedly recommend that brand.

 

I have an "open" Featherlite 3110 model (see pic) with a huge air dam / spoiler up front (see pic) with two 3500 lb tandem axles for a max total capacity (including the trailer weight) of 7000 lbs. The trailer weighs about 1500 lbs, so you can carry a 5500 lb car. I've had the trailer four years and it still looks like new, and people always comment on how nice it looks. You don't have to worry about rust per say, and the aluminum always shines like new. I wash it after every trip however, to keep it looking nice. The light weight all aluminum ramps store neatly under the rear of the trailer. This trailer is a "one person" operation; I can push the trailer with minimum force which is a huge plus when hooking / unhooking and general moving around. Plus my sweetheart when helping me was amazed at how light it was so she actually looked forward to helping; a big plus there too!

 

Yes, it will cost more, about 15-20% more than a heavy steel trailer, but definitely worth the extra bread you're forking over IMO. You can customize with all kinds of gadgets. See link below.

 

http://www.fthr.com/car-trailer/

 

Here's a used 3110 for sale. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/other-vehicles-buy-sell-268/605240-featherlite-aluminum-3110-open-car-trailer.html

 

More pics here of a 2011 3110 open car hauler: http://goldengait.com/inventory/details.php?stockNo=5474

Have to agree with you... I've used both open and enclosed and unless you are a full time racer you'd be better off with an open trailer with a front-end guard. The difference in fuel cost is huge but if you got cash to blow then yea do the enclosed

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1. You want an escape door.

2. You want ramps built inside the trailer to drive the car onto so you can use the escape door. Climbing out the car through the window, putting your feet on the seats just sucks. Much easier to open the door and get out normally.

3. You want to install a winch for those times the car dies, you wad it up or break it (or someone else does and you are towing their car while they are driving yours). You also want the battery for the winch by the winch for jump starting if needed. Install a solar trickle charger on your roof too to keep the battery charged when the trailer isn't being used.

 

Everything else all depending on taste. I stack my tires under the car on the floor between the ramps. No need for a tire rack mounted to the wall. If you are going to track your car, you'll soon learn the advantage of A/C. I went for living quarters on this trailer. Installed a memory foam mattress in it, Bluray player and made it mine.

 

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My Raptor fits in my trailer. Barely.

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Full Rig. 46' of trailer goodness with 24' of garage space. The rest is living quarters. Truck has a 96 gallon aux fuel tank in the bed that feeds into the stock fuel tank. 136 gallons of fuel. Only have to stop every 1000 miles for fuel.

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A RAPTOR being towed, c'mon man burn that picture

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Lots of good information. Tires are an issue, 16 with E rating is a good idea. Enclosed is preferable. Like the slope nose pictured will not really cost you a lot in fuel. Bigger trailer? Yea it will decrease. I have a stealth I use. I like the trailer but, I haul lots of tools so, I'm heavier due to that. Be careful with aluminum, Make sure you compare weights. Some aluminum trailers are close to the steel in weight

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OK, the more I read the more I believe I need to save more for this transaction. Enclosed seems like a very good idea, both for storage and protection of vehicle, tools etc. Lots of good recommendations. Now for the lottery ticket...

 

Thanks all,

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Keep in mind total loaded weight and buy accordingly.

 

Many "car haulers" are equipped with #3500 pound axles (3500x2=7000) and weigh well over #3000 lbs empty. If you do the math you'll observe that with our #4000 lb(+/-) cars we may be setting ourselves up for a ticket or much worse.

 

Diligence in selecting the right trailer will save you more than just money, that's why I'm still looking even though I've narrowed it down.

 

My guess is that those that are suggesting an enclosed version have duly "been there" with an open one and not speculating.

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I does sound like 'don't make the mistakes I made type advice'. Lots of good stuff. I never even considered a winch assembly, electricity etc. Because I'd never break down or crash, thus I have no need for power tools etc.

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I does sound like 'don't make the mistakes I made type advice'. Lots of good stuff. I never even considered a winch assembly, electricity etc. Because I'd never break down or crash, thus I have no need for power tools etc.

 

I use my winch a LOT.

 

My car is so low that I can't get under it to cinch the front down so I use the winch to hold it onto the bed and straps on the rear axle to hold the rear in place. Winching it up also allows me to keep a close eye under the car and place 2x12's under the wheels to raise it so it won't high-center. I couldn't do that if I drove the car up.

 

 

Phill

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a couple pics of my 20' United slopenose. I bought it at Trailer World in Bowling Green, Kentucky. Cost was either $8,000 or 8500, can't remember.. delivered to my door. Could have saved $500 picking it up myself in Northern Indiana. I ordered the $300 escape door which is only 7" above floor so most anything except maybe something exotic you should be able to open the door and get out as opposed to climbing out the window. I bought mine to haul my old Boss and Cobra Jet cars but the new Shelby should fit too. I have no plans to race anything so 20' was plenty just for a car, cooler, lawn chairs,etc.

 

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I saw one on a site that had the removal fender which allowed the car door to open on low cars. I like this trailer and am looking for a used one. I will use Slabo's set up for securing the car. Real clean and works with low cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the set up I am looking at for securing the car on future trailer.

 

http://www.autohaulersupply.com/catalog/horizontal-e-track-wheel-straps-268-1.php

 

I need to get something like that (last option is what I want). As it is now, my car is too low to get straps onto the front suspension with the angle to the tie-down anchor so I use my winch with a Y strap and two axle straps. On the rear, no problem since the dovetail slants down and gives me room to climb under and get to the axle tubes.

 

Using the winch is a pain in the butt and makes for longer loading/unloading times because I can't just drive up, cinch down and go.

 

 

Phill

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Does the 18' hold a mustang? Not planning on carrying extra tires etc. That said, 20 seems to be a nice size.

18 is perfect as the bed is 18 and the drive on ramps are another 18 inches beyond the bed. I have the storage compartment on the nose for a shield. Awesome trailer I pull with a new grand Cherokee with brake controller and hardly know its there.

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I don't remember the name of it but I saw it in person so I know it'll work. There is a trailer that instead of ramps it tilts using hydraulics so you can drive right on then it goes down in front as you drive on it. You will pay a little extra but the ease of loading and not killing your back should be a big benefit. Some one has to know the name of it cause I saw it at the B-J auction

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I don't remember the name of it but I saw it in person so I know it'll work. There is a trailer that instead of ramps it tilts using hydraulics so you can drive right on then it goes down in front as you drive on it. You will pay a little extra but the ease of loading and not killing your back should be a big benefit. Some one has to know the name of it cause I saw it at the B-J auction

Go to Jimglo.com and click on tilted drive on trailers. IMHO the best trailer out there. Not the cheapest but the best.

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