Hello all

[chillawag]

Hello

 

 

[Imatk]

I'd get in touch with Tousley Ford and buy a 2010 model clutch kit.

 

I have this kit and it's a HUGE difference in driveability.

 

Very smooth, nice clutch pedal and no chatter.

[SVTpower]

forget oem.......unless it's a free repair, buy a McLeod RXT street kit

[txcobra]

forget oem.......unless it's a free repair, buy a McLeod RXT street kit

 

 

Isn't that a pretty harsh pedal?

[SVTpower]

nope.......I'll let others respond who have it and all very happy. RST also avail but diff. material, RXT tougher. Lethal perf sells both, and both are kits with a lightened steel flywheel (same weight as a stocker assembly) Mine from Lethal is on the way.

[texaggie]

I just purchased the SPEC SS from Lethal. It should be in by friday (tomorrow). It is a complete kit as well. Many good reviews in TS for SPEC. I'll know more after I put it in.

[Pete500]

I agree with not going for the OEM product too many issues and expecting a different result with a new one will not happen. When my clutch started slipping and the dealer would not budge from his position that it was normal wear and tear I replaced it with a Centerforce dual plate model and steel flywheel it has really improved the drivability especially in traffic. As the technician had to drop the transmission I had a Steeda Triax shifter installed at the same time which again has made a positive change to the car. Steel or billet flywheel really depends on where you intend to drive if it's mainly track use I would go for billet if it's going to be a street car then steel is better as the billet units can overheat if used for urban driving.

[chillawag]

thanks for the input guys this is mostly a weekend car with a few long road trips in between also my plans are 373 gears larger heat exchanger and i just ordered the Degas bottle from roush and occasional drag strip visits but i would like to retain as much streetability as possible and i really dont want to do this again in 25000 miles and while i am at it i was planning on doing the KR shifter any one have any negative thoughts on this shifter When it is time to do the clutch i will take pics of the whole process and get them posted so you can see them Thanks Jim

[lawdude]

Isn't that a pretty harsh pedal?

 

 

Just finished breaking mine in today. Pedal easier than stock. Pre-breakin chatter and grabbiness gone - pedal engages progressively. Lawdude happy.

 

Heading to drag strip Saturday to have some fun.

[chillawag]

a

 

 

[lawdude]

what clutch do you have lawdude and how many miles to breakin the clutch was it hwy driving or city or a mix of both

 

 

 

McLeod RXT with steel flywheel. 500 city miles. I drove like a fiend since last Friday. 500 breakin miles are not as much fun as 500 regular miles.

[Imatk]

nope.......I'll let others respond who have it and all very happy. RST also avail but diff. material, RXT tougher. Lethal perf sells both, and both are kits with a lightened steel flywheel (same weight as a stocker assembly) Mine from Lethal is on the way.

 

 

So you're recommending a clutch you don't even have yet?

[frydguy79]

So you're recommending a clutch you don't even have yet?

 

 

 

i have the RXT and it is smooth,, very light pedal and it is pretty quiet

 

i went with the HEAVIER flywheel it raps quicker now

[Whammer]

So you're recommending a clutch you don't even have yet?

 

 

He did say he would let OTHERS respond. So he's been pleased with how the others like the clutch enough to purchase it himself.

[goldgus]

thanks for the input guys this is mostly a weekend car with a few long road trips in between also my plans are 373 gears larger heat exchanger and i just ordered the Degas bottle from roush and occasional drag strip visits but i would like to retain as much streetability as possible and i really dont want to do this again in 25000 miles and while i am at it i was planning on doing the KR shifter any one have any negative thoughts on this shifter When it is time to do the clutch i will take pics of the whole process and get them posted so you can see them Thanks Jim

 

 

I wont quote on the clutch as i am on my original 2010 clutch with 18K miles, and it still feels like brand new. But I will tell you, the 2010 "supposedly" has the "KR" shifter and I wasn't thrilled with it. It has lots of flex and slop so I replaced with the MGW (link) billet shifter. I think you'd be REALLY happy with it. Also have the Shelby dual-fan H/E, its a real quality piece... Wait until they have the 15% sale again before you pull the trigger on the H/E, will save you over $100.

GUS

[MMcGuirk]

I have 25k miles on a McLeod RST - great clutch, flawless operation.

[Imatk]

He did say he would let OTHERS respond. So he's been pleased with how the others like the clutch enough to purchase it himself.

 

 

Yeah after someone questioned the pedal feel.

 

I just don't understand this need to contribute advice when there's no base of reference.

 

His first post was "forget oem.......unless it's a free repair, buy a McLeod RXT street kit "

 

Has he tried a 2010 clutch? I don't know... if not how does he know the OP should "forget OEM"?

 

And on top of that he recommended a clutch he doesn't even have but with no disclaimer. (You know the fact that he doesn't actually have the clutch and really has no idea how it performs.)

 

Does anyone have the RXT with more than 500 miles? Or 5000 miles or GASP 28k miles??

 

This kind of stuff just annoys me because I've been modding cars for a long time and there's this notion that aftermarket MUST be better than OEM because it :

 

a. costs more or less

b. is rated for more (fill in the blank... power, torque, etc)

c. simply is aftermarket and you can tell someone that it's "not stock"

 

Sometimes an aftermarket part is better and warranted but in my experience more often than not people throw a lot of money at aftermarket parts that don't perform the way they want because what they WANT is OEM performance, weather they realize it or not.

 

Here's a scenario I've seen play out many many times....someone buys a "race" clutch because it's rated for crazy HP/Torque so it MUST be the best because his friend's brother's cousin told him it was great because he knew a guy that had one and it was really awesome!! So he goes out and buys a race clutch because it sounds cool and then when he has it installed he hates it because the clutch performs like a race clutch (on/off and hard to drive). The car lunges and dies and chatters and he hates the clutch.

 

So he sells said race clutch then buys ANOTHER really cool aftermarket clutch that is rated for high HP because his sister was dating a guy who knew someone that worked for a vendor that said that this was the best clutch his brother's cousin had EVER used!!

 

Then he buys THAT clutch and THAT clutch sucks balls too because the pedal is very heavy and his leg hurts after 20 minutes in traffic. Because he's not using the car on a track he's using it to drive on the street in traffic with lights etc.

 

So what happens in the end?? He goes back to the stock clutch because he finally realizes that his car is a street car and not a race car and he wishes he would have just bought a stock clutch to begin with.

 

Aftermarket isn't always better... sometimes it is but it sure can get expensive very quickly if someone doesn't know what they REALLY need / want, and advice that's second-hand is usually the most expensive advice someone can take.

[DubbsFaris]

I dont think the person you are reffering to was suggesting a stage 3+ SPEC clutch, just aftermarket. If you want a nice stock feeling and comfortable clutch, go with the Mcleod RST or RXT. I have driven cars with both and they are superior to the OEM. Thats just fact.

 

I do agree somewhat with your post in one respect and understand what your point is though- I needed new brake pads on my car at the last track event it went to, and got talked into the race pads. They squealed so bad I regreted buying them. I would rather replace my OEM pads twice as often and keep the nice soft feel and quiet performance than have race pads that sound like Im driving a 83 Dodge Pickup with bad brakes. I would also caution against going with suspension upgrades unless performance is an absolute must. My Eibach SS suspension started clanking pretty bad too after a few thousand miles. I would suggest doing no more than the FRPP suspension unless you are strictly tracking your car, or belong to a track where it sees monthly track time. In the end, even a stock configuration is fun to drive on a track or at the strip, but you dont want to completely loose the driveability of the car as a street cruiser either, and you will see a net enjoyment loss if you do too much race upgrades on a car you drive 75% of your time or more on the street.

[SVTpower]

Yeah after someone questioned the pedal feel.

 

I just don't understand this need to contribute advice when there's no base of reference.

 

His first post was "forget oem.......unless it's a free repair, buy a McLeod RXT street kit "

 

Has he tried a 2010 clutch? I don't know... if not how does he know the OP should "forget OEM"?

 

And on top of that he recommended a clutch he doesn't even have but with no disclaimer. (You know the fact that he doesn't actually have the clutch and really has no idea how it performs.)

 

Does anyone have the RXT with more than 500 miles? Or 5000 miles or GASP 28k miles??

 

This kind of stuff just annoys me because I've been modding cars for a long time and there's this notion that aftermarket MUST be better than OEM because it :

 

a. costs more or less

b. is rated for more (fill in the blank... power, torque, etc)

c. simply is aftermarket and you can tell someone that it's "not stock"

 

Sometimes an aftermarket part is better and warranted but in my experience more often than not people throw a lot of money at aftermarket parts that don't perform the way they want because what they WANT is OEM performance, weather they realize it or not.

 

Here's a scenario I've seen play out many many times....someone buys a "race" clutch because it's rated for crazy HP/Torque so it MUST be the best because his friend's brother's cousin told him it was great because he knew a guy that had one and it was really awesome!! So he goes out and buys a race clutch because it sounds cool and then when he has it installed he hates it because the clutch performs like a race clutch (on/off and hard to drive). The car lunges and dies and chatters and he hates the clutch.

 

So he sells said race clutch then buys ANOTHER really cool aftermarket clutch that is rated for high HP because his sister was dating a guy who knew someone that worked for a vendor that said that this was the best clutch his brother's cousin had EVER used!!

 

Then he buys THAT clutch and THAT clutch sucks balls too because the pedal is very heavy and his leg hurts after 20 minutes in traffic. Because he's not using the car on a track he's using it to drive on the street in traffic with lights etc.

 

So what happens in the end?? He goes back to the stock clutch because he finally realizes that his car is a street car and not a race car and he wishes he would have just bought a stock clutch to begin with.

 

Aftermarket isn't always better... sometimes it is but it sure can get expensive very quickly if someone doesn't know what they REALLY need / want, and advice that's second-hand is usually the most expensive advice someone can take.

 

 

Gee.........having a bad day?? Free country, buy what you like and as was posted by some 'supportive' members, my decision was based on feedback by others including a popular vendor here that sold to many.....same reason I sold my PTrim.......read it wasn't street friendly whereas the McLeod is 'supposed' to be . cheers and hope tomorrow is better than today

[lawdude]

I've had my RXT in for about 700 miles and includes one track day, but now I'm afraid to review it.

[Curt A]

I've had my RXT in for about 700 miles and includes one track day, but now I'm afraid to review it.

 

 

Same here , Mines almost a year old and 400 miles .

[Imatk]

I dont think the person you are reffering to was suggesting a stage 3+ SPEC clutch, just aftermarket. If you want a nice stock feeling and comfortable clutch, go with the Mcleod RST or RXT. I have driven cars with both and they are superior to the OEM. Thats just fact.

 

I do agree somewhat with your post in one respect and understand what your point is though- I needed new brake pads on my car at the last track event it went to, and got talked into the race pads. They squealed so bad I regreted buying them. I would rather replace my OEM pads twice as often and keep the nice soft feel and quiet performance than have race pads that sound like Im driving a 83 Dodge Pickup with bad brakes. I would also caution against going with suspension upgrades unless performance is an absolute must. My Eibach SS suspension started clanking pretty bad too after a few thousand miles. I would suggest doing no more than the FRPP suspension unless you are strictly tracking your car, or belong to a track where it sees monthly track time. In the end, even a stock configuration is fun to drive on a track or at the strip, but you dont want to completely loose the driveability of the car as a street cruiser either, and you will see a net enjoyment loss if you do too much race upgrades on a car you drive 75% of your time or more on the street.

 

 

This is exactly what I was referring to. You bought race pads and weren't happy with them and regretted buying them.

 

This happens A LOT. Sometimes it's a vendor who is trying to push product and other times it's because either the person you asked for advice didn't understand what you wanted the part for (i.e. what was the intended use... track or street) OR they didn't know what they were talking about in the first place.

 

I just don't like to see people throw money away, that's all.

 

I've not ever driven a car with the McLeod RST or RXT so I have no opinion on the clutch... but you do because you have the product and are happy with it. That's fair enough, and helpful... but to dismiss one product over another when you have no frame of reference whatsoever isn't helping anyone.

[Imatk]

Gee.........having a bad day?? Free country, buy what you like and as was posted by some 'supportive' members, my decision was based on feedback by others including a popular vendor here that sold to many.....same reason I sold my PTrim.......read it wasn't street friendly whereas the McLeod is 'supposed' to be . cheers and hope tomorrow is better than today

 

 

I'm not having a bad day at all. I was trying to illustrate why I had posted what I posted earlier.

 

Your decision was based on feedback by others including a popular vendor here.

 

But the fact is you don't have the clutch installed and have no frame of reference other than what someone else has told you.

 

Have you driven a 2010 clutch on the GT500?

 

Again, this was what I was trying to show before that many people will dismiss OEM just because it's OEM. Even when they have no idea of the application or performance of the OEM part.

 

Do you have a PTrim in your car now? I seem to remember you advising others to buy a PTrim not too long ago.

 

Why did you buy the PTrim? Was it because a vendor told you it was good?

 

All I'm saying is that giving advice on a part when you have no actual experience with the part isn't helping.

 

As for a vendor giving you advice... I wouldn't exactly say it's an unbiased opinion since it benefits the vendor selling the part.

 

In other words the vendor selling the aftermarket part doesn't make any money if you buy an OEM part so it's not in their interest to give you that advice.

 

I've just been doing this a long time and am tired of seeing people throw money away on parts before they REALLY know what they need / want.

[SVTpower]

I'm not having a bad day at all. I was trying to illustrate why I had posted what I posted earlier.

 

Your decision was based on feedback by others including a popular vendor here.

 

But the fact is you don't have the clutch installed and have no frame of reference other than what someone else has told you.

 

Have you driven a 2010 clutch on the GT500?

 

Again, this was what I was trying to show before that many people will dismiss OEM just because it's OEM. Even when they have no idea of the application or performance of the OEM part.

 

Do you have a PTrim in your car now? I seem to remember you advising others to buy a PTrim not too long ago.

 

Why did you buy the PTrim? Was it because a vendor told you it was good?

 

All I'm saying is that giving advice on a part when you have no actual experience with the part isn't helping.

 

As for a vendor giving you advice... I wouldn't exactly say it's an unbiased opinion since it benefits the vendor selling the part.

 

In other words the vendor selling the aftermarket part doesn't make any money if you buy an OEM part so it's not in their interest to give you that advice.

 

I've just been doing this a long time and am tired of seeing people throw money away on parts before they REALLY know what they need / want.

 

 

Ptrim was my decision, in fact I should have gone the SS trim and maybe still would have kept it but I went P due to my power level and possibly more changes down the road. I sold the P trim after several said they found it to be too on/off/ not smooth........I didn't want that. My decision was based on those that had it installed........same with the RXT......decision based on those that have installed and are happy.

 

Now take it easy, I appreciate you looking after my money but it is mine. thanks anyways, cheers

[Imatk]

Ptrim was my decision, in fact I should have gone the SS trim and maybe still would have kept it but I went P due to my power level and possibly more changes down the road. I sold the P trim after several said they found it to be too on/off/ not smooth........I didn't want that. My decision was based on those that had it installed........same with the RXT......decision based on those that have installed and are happy.

 

Now take it easy, I appreciate you looking after my money but it is mine. thanks anyways, cheers

 

 

Umm ok I'll "take it easy," I'm not really sure why you think I'm attacking you in some way... or that I'm hostile.

 

I'm just stating facts and trying to show that sometimes its best to not chime in when you have nothing to chime in about.

 

You bought a PTrim clutch on the advice of no one... just went ahead and picked it out of the blue? That seems odd.

 

But then you didn't install it and you sold it and are now buying the RXT (this is and was my point BTW) so you spent money on the PTrim and then spent some more money on the RXT.

 

A year ago you gave advice on the PTrim about how it was great... also without having it installed... and now you're giving the same advice about the RXT without having it installed.... do you see my point?

 

I'm not trying to "look after your money" just trying to show others that not all advice is valid.

 

Other people have responded who actually HAVE the RXT wouldn't you give THEIR opinions a bit more weight? Or am I out of left field here?

 

I'm sure you are just trying to help, but I would suggest to help on subjects you have first-hand knowledge of or at the very LEAST give a disclaimer stating you have no experience with the RXT but have been told by (fill in the blank) that it's a good product.

[03 DSG Snake]

What's the reasoning for putting a heavier flywheel on the RXT?

 

 

I'm looking to swap my OEM out soon and I'm out of warranty anyways.

[Sherri Leicht]

I have over 2k miles on my new Spec Twin SS. Love it! I have driven friends that have the McCleod and the 2010 clutches. Both of these have very little pedal effort, seems you could push your foot thru the firewall. My Twin SS has more pressure.

 

Congrats on making it 28k miles. I only made it to 25k.

[DrBob]

as the title says 28164 miles and my clutch started slipping i took it to the dealer and they stated that the clutch is a normal wear item and not covered by powertrain warranty the car was built 8-23-06 and was put into service 9-21-06 on 1-18-10 a new transmission part number 8R3Z 7003AC was installed at 19640 miles the problem was harsh bearing noise the dealer took the unit apart and determined that the 1st and 2nd gears needed replacing upon further inspection they determined that the case was improperly casted now here i am 9 months later with a slipping clutch i purchased the car with 22000 miles on it 7 months ago it still wears the original tires (they are almost bald) and thru carfax i found that the car was owned by a woman before me its funny when i took it to the dealer the first thing the svt mechanic did was look at the rear tires and then he looked under the rear of the car then he raised the hood for a quick 5 seconds before he got in for a test what do you think he was looking for well he did not find it the car is all stock after much discuddion with him he looked into the history of the car for me and stated that the trans was all he could find he did tell me that the latest trans was installed 7R3V7003AJ but the clutch was not replaced at the time dont you think they would of done that with 19000 miles knowing the clutches only last about 20000 miles Well any way i am shopping for e new clutch and i need your input this is my plan steeda cai 2,6 upper pulley IW lower pulley tune and some suspension work also on the flywheel what would you recomend steel or billet any input is greatly app as i am gonna do this job myself with a couple of friends in a nice warm garage as it is winter here and i am in no hurry to get er done thanks Jim

 

My clutch went out at 17k miles, last November. Ford was great. They determined that the source of the pre-mature wear was the flywheel, which is warranteed for 5 years, so they fixed it for free. They replaced everything as specified in the latest TSB with 2010 parts, and it works great. It has a lighter touch on the pedal, and is smoother to engage. Call the Ford Customer Service Line and get them involved.

[frydguy79]

What's the reasoning for putting a heavier flywheel on the RXT?

 

 

I'm looking to swap my OEM out soon and I'm out of warranty anyways.

 

 

 

heavier flywheel has more mass so you when you shift your rpm's don't drop as fast as they do with a stock or lighter flywheel, which in turn should make for lower et's

[mobeydick]

as the title says 28164 miles and my clutch started slipping i took it to the dealer and they stated that the clutch is a normal wear item and not covered by powertrain warranty the car was built 8-23-06 and was put into service 9-21-06 on 1-18-10 a new transmission part number 8R3Z 7003AC was installed at 19640 miles the problem was harsh bearing noise the dealer took the unit apart and determined that the 1st and 2nd gears needed replacing upon further inspection they determined that the case was improperly casted now here i am 9 months later with a slipping clutch i purchased the car with 22000 miles on it 7 months ago it still wears the original tires (they are almost bald) and thru carfax i found that the car was owned by a woman before me its funny when i took it to the dealer the first thing the svt mechanic did was look at the rear tires and then he looked under the rear of the car then he raised the hood for a quick 5 seconds before he got in for a test what do you think he was looking for well he did not find it the car is all stock after much discuddion with him he looked into the history of the car for me and stated that the trans was all he could find he did tell me that the latest trans was installed 7R3V7003AJ but the clutch was not replaced at the time dont you think they would of done that with 19000 miles knowing the clutches only last about 20000 miles Well any way i am shopping for e new clutch and i need your input this is my plan steeda cai 2,6 upper pulley IW lower pulley tune and some suspension work also on the flywheel what would you recomend steel or billet any input is greatly app as i am gonna do this job myself with a couple of friends in a nice warm garage as it is winter here and i am in no hurry to get er done thanks Jim

 

Only drawing from my own experience, over 40,000 miles (100 1/4 miles passes) on my 07 OEM clutch I'm not sure about that comment! I would love to be able to buy a NEW 07 OEM Clutch for my 07 just for when mine does go bad!