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Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft


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Obviously the stock two piece driveshaft isn't strong enough to handle the power from a Supercharged car, but even before I get my car S/C'd is this a good mod? It's quite expensive for a driveshaft. I can get it for $730 the cheapest. Any of you guys install one on your N/A car and notice a big difference? (Quickness, acceleration difference?)

 

Also, does anyone know where you can get one for less than 700 bucks?

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Shaftmaster makes a nice one that is a direct bolt in style.My link

 

This will be the one I get. I had the 4" but it rubbed a little on the top of the tunnel. Very smooth and super easy to install

 

 

Nice find! What is the difference between the direct bolt on and the pinion flang kit? Same price. Is the direct bolt on better? :headscratch:

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It says 16ftlbs of tq increase and 14hp. Has anyone ever dyno'd the car to prove this statement? Obviously the lighter driveshaft frees up power, I'm just curious if noticeable power will get to the wheels. My guess is a few hp/ ftlbs of tq.

Edited by sgt1020
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I installed a Coast alum DS last spring. I was lucky as far as the price went, E-bay had a $100.00 coupon on any purchase on ebay motors. Coast had knocked 10% off already so the whole thing only cost me 519.00. As far as performance goes I didn't notice any difference, but you'd almost have to dyno before and after to find out.

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Nice find! What is the difference between the direct bolt on and the pinion flang kit? Same price. Is the direct bolt on better? :headscratch:

 

 

My understanding is a direct bolt on with no spacer plate will be smoother and stronger. That is what I was told, my 4" Shaftmaster DS was smooth and it had a flange kit. The 3.5 should work better on our cars since they are lowered. I honestly couldn't tell a difference with the one piece over the stock DS. My guess is to truly measure you would have to dyno back to back and see if on paper. I have had an aluminum flywheel and that made a huge difference in feel, but that is for another thread.

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In both our cars I installed the "Leonards/SpyderShaft", that included the Ford replacement pinion..

 

I believe it's the same one now sold by Steeda

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-aluminum-driveshafts-ford-mustang.html

 

Here is a nice how to video-

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDif6bq-lng

 

Also a good time to install a driveline loop, I installed a BMR unit on the Roush-

 

P4181381.jpg

 

The results- The response/acceleration feels much quicker/faster at all speeds, since this driveline requires a pinion replacement there is less chance of having vibrations issues that some adapter styles have.

 

 

 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=--

Edited by FordFan1
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My understanding is a direct bolt on with no spacer plate will be smoother and stronger. That is what I was told, my 4" Shaftmaster DS was smooth and it had a flange kit. The 3.5 should work better on our cars since they are lowered. I honestly couldn't tell a difference with the one piece over the stock DS. My guess is to truly measure you would have to dyno back to back and see if on paper. I have had an aluminum flywheel and that made a huge difference in feel, but that is for another thread.

 

 

What difference did the aluminum flywheel make? And I'm guessing you got a new clutch obviously. I might look into doing so too although my stock clutch is holding up okay for now. Is the Super-twin clutch from shelby not necessary? The stage3+ looks like a solid clutch. Maybe even the stage5, although it says it isn't necessarily street friendly.

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^For a street car, you most definitely do NOT want a stage 5.

I have the stage 3+ and I should have done a twin disc. It's way too grabby and irritating to drive around town with this clutch. The stage 2 or 3 (or any Spec without the +) is infinitely worse, because each has a solid hub (race only).

As for DS, I'm still running the stock 2 piece without issue. I've heard from some that they picked up a little HP on the dyno. I've heard from others that they gained nothing but a headache (vibration, failures, etc).

If I do go with a 1 piece, it'll be the Coast unit.

 

 

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^For a street car, you most definitely do NOT want a stage 5.

I have the stage 3+ and I should have done a twin disc. It's way too grabby and irritating to drive around town with this clutch. The stage 2 or 3 (or any Spec without the +) is infinitely worse, because each has a solid hub (race only).

As for DS, I'm still running the stock 2 piece without issue. I've heard from some that they picked up a little HP on the dyno. I've heard from others that they gained nothing but a headache (vibration, failures, etc).

If I do go with a 1 piece, it'll be the Coast unit.

 

 

Here is the Coast link:

 

Coast Aluminum Driveshafts

 

Edit - Check out the instructions (pdf link) - note requirement for adjustable 3rd link and pinion angle, plus other stuff, for lowered vehicles (such as our SGT's)! Looks like I'm going to have to get that 3rd link too... :rant2:

 

Kahmann, why do you prefer Coast? I do like the write-up on their web page. I don't mind paying more to make sure its done right.

Edited by ilmor
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^For a street car, you most definitely do NOT want a stage 5.

I have the stage 3+ and I should have done a twin disc. It's way too grabby and irritating to drive around town with this clutch. The stage 2 or 3 (or any Spec without the +) is infinitely worse, because each has a solid hub (race only).

As for DS, I'm still running the stock 2 piece without issue. I've heard from some that they picked up a little HP on the dyno. I've heard from others that they gained nothing but a headache (vibration, failures, etc).

If I do go with a 1 piece, it'll be the Coast unit.

 

 

 

What clutch would you recommend? I've seen a lot of guys like the twin disc. Another thing is, with an aluminum flywheel, what difference will you feel? Just smoother shifting?

 

^ Coast's website says they have dyno proven that the aluminum DS increases hp and tq....still not sure if I believe that. :talkhand:

Edited by sgt1020
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+1 on the price! I'm sticking with 3.73 though. Going to S/C the car this spring at Shelby, the 4.10's would be a bit annoying with the blower.

 

 

I wonder if you will think that AFTER you drive my car in the Spring! :hysterical:

 

the one piece aluminum drive shaft is 30 lbs lighter than the stock one..........Im just sayin......:shrug:

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I wonder if you will think that AFTER you drive my car in the Spring! :hysterical:

 

the one piece aluminum drive shaft is 30 lbs lighter than the stock one..........Im just sayin......:shrug:

 

 

I bet that those 4.10's are crazy with that Supercharger!!! You really like it? And I think the aluminum DS is a good mod. Just a bit pricey. That stock DS is big, rusted and ugly lookin'.

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Obviously the stock two piece driveshaft isn't strong enough to handle the power from a Supercharged car,

 

 

Where did that come from. The stock, steel two-piece is a LOT stronger with higher critical rpm than virtually any 1-piece, especially aluminum.

 

If I do go with a 1 piece, it'll be the Coast unit.

 

 

I have the Coast 4" that I got through Lightening Force Performance. I paid around $600 delivered. It fit up perfect, no problems.

 

I did a stock dyno (numbers below) and a post DS and Wheels/Tires dyno. (not posted)

The HP dropped about 1 WHP & 2 WTQ overall. Whatever rotational mass I lost from the 2-piece DS, I gained back with the 9.5" 18's...

SOTP, felt more responsive, but I could be projecting... :) I'd stay stock if I did it again...

Good luck

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I bet that those 4.10's are crazy with that Supercharger!!! You really like it? And I think the aluminum DS is a good mod. Just a bit pricey. That stock DS is big, rusted and ugly lookin'.

 

 

I love the set up.......had the 4.10s pre s/c and the installer (Alex) said to leave them in when I mentioned putting 373s in.....he was right.......I really do love them! :happy feet:

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What difference did the aluminum flywheel make? And I'm guessing you got a new clutch obviously. I might look into doing so too although my stock clutch is holding up okay for now. Is the Super-twin clutch from shelby not necessary? The stage3+ looks like a solid clutch. Maybe even the stage5, although it says it isn't necessarily street friendly.

 

 

The aluminum flywheel took a little more encouraging off the line with the throttle, but it certainly rev'd quicker. I am now running a spec 2+ and it has held up well, although it has a very annoying chirp on down shifts. I had a zoom twin disc that was very solid but it had a manufacturing issue and failed around 700 miles. When I get a new clutch it will be the RXT or a Ram twin disc 10.5. from what I have read either will hold up well and are very streetable. I was considering the spec3+ until I read Ken's post.

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What clutch would you recommend? I've seen a lot of guys like the twin disc. Another thing is, with an aluminum flywheel, what difference will you feel? Just smoother shifting?

 

^ Coast's website says they have dyno proven that the aluminum DS increases hp and tq....still not sure if I believe that. :talkhand:

 

 

 

I installed the Fidanza 2.1 with the matching aluminum flywheel

http://www.fidanza.com/2Point1.aspx

http://www.fidanza.com/Aluminum-Flywheels.aspx

 

Compliments the 1-piece driveline, just needs a little more rpm when leaving the stop signs.

Super fun on the track when rev matching the down shifts,

 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Edited by FordFan1
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Seems from these posts so far that, although I love the idea of the lighter weight and looks, the aluminum DS may not be such a great value in terms of actual performance (HP/Torque)....maybe its something that should be saved for later...although, w/ 30 lbs off the car it has to help acceleration....but the 4:10's are a definite.

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Seems from these posts so far that, although I love the idea of the lighter weight and looks, the aluminum DS may not be such a great value in terms of actual performance (HP/Torque)....maybe its something that should be saved for later...although, w/ 30 lbs off the car it has to help acceleration....but the 4:10's are a definite.

 

I have the 4'' aluminum d/s from Axle Exchange. I installed it along with the upper ajustible control so as to set the pinion angle correctly. with a cost of over 900.00 i certainly don't think its worth it.The d/s certainly weighs half the weight of the 2 piece but you just don't get enough bang for your buck.There is a lot better upgrades for the money than a d/s like a a brenspeed tune and or 410's. I've also installed shorty headers and they are not noticeably better either. Now my supercharger, well i have a totally different car now.

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In both our cars I installed the "Leonards/SpyderShaft", that included the Ford replacement pinion..

 

I believe it's the same one now sold by Steeda

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

Here is a nice how to video-

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDif6bq-lng

Also a good time to install a driveline loop, I installed a BMR unit on the Roush-

 

The results- The response/acceleration feels much quicker/faster at all speeds, since this driveline requires a pinion replacement there is less chance of having vibrations issues that some adapter styles have.

 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=--

 

 

Nice post Kerry !

The video makes the instal look fairly straightforward.

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