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Wheel Hop


hp275

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I have a 2007 GT500

1,700 miles

Mods:

-2.6 Pulley

-Idler pulley

-JLT cold air

-SCT tune

-JLT oil separator

-Cherry Bomb Axle back exhaust

 

I need input on putting a stop to the nasty wheel hop!

Some say only replace the top control arm??

I want something to fix and eliminate the issue!

Just like everyone I have a budget but still want quality...

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Your going to hear a lot of advice on what's worked and hasn't for others. The UCA is the most important piece to cure wheel hop.

 

If your never going to lower the car or put in a 1-piece DS then I would use: The Roush UCA Wheel hop reduction kit cost $296.60 on the Roush website..

 

If you may ever lower the car or put in a 1-piece DS then what I use is: The J&M double adjustable "Street Version", it cost close to $175.00 off hotparts.com, maybe less.

This way you can dial in your pinion angle more aggressively. Don't worry about the "street version" J&M uca, it's tough enough to handle 10 second passes with very little added NVH. I've also heard the Roush part has very little added NVH, but I have no direct experience with it. I did both the adj. UCA & LCA and have zero wheel hop.

 

Estimated labor ($100.00 / hour): UCA = 2.5 hours; LCA = 1.5 - 2 hours

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Your going to hear a lot of advice on what's worked and hasn't for others. The UCA is the most important piece to cure wheel hop.

 

If your never going to lower the car or put in a 1-piece DS then I would use: The Roush UCA Wheel hop reduction kit cost $296.60 on the Roush website..

 

If you may ever lower the car or put in a 1-piece DS then what I use is: The J&M double adjustable "Street Version", it cost close to $175.00 off hotparts.com, maybe less.

This way you can dial in your pinion angle more aggressively. Don't worry about the "street version" J&M uca, it's tough enough to handle 10 second passes with very little added NVH. I've also heard the Roush part has very little added NVH, but I have no direct experience with it. I did both the adj. UCA & LCA and have zero wheel hop.

 

Estimated labor ($100.00 / hour): UCA = 2.5 hours; LCA = 1.5 - 2 hours

 

 

So if lowered, would you just do the J&M double adj. "Street Version" LCA only then?

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So if lowered, would you just do the J&M double adj. "Street Version" LCA only then?

 

 

If lowered I'd get the double adj. UCA (J&M street version), and the LCAs (BMR, J&M are great). The difference is since your lowered you need "relocation brackets" welded in for the LCAs. Once lowered you throw off your center and the relocation brackets get you dialed back in for maximum traction (there is much more detailed / specific info. on this if you search around).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have experience with the Shelby anti-wheel hop rear control arm relocation brackets (at the Shelby store)? I trust these are for the upper control arms.

Thanks,

Al

Merry Christmas!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

I had severe wheel hop on my 09 gt500.....just installed J&M rear lower control arms (stock height) 95% of wheel hop is gone,,,very happy with results

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