CrzyHorse Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Hey guys my friend has a GT500KR which has the same brakes as a regular GT500 if I am not mistaken. He recently heard some sounds from his brakes a kind of grinding rough sound. His brakes also started to get soft. Upon inspection he saw his rear rotors scratched deep. His front brakes look like they are in mint condition. Is there any possible reason why his rears would go out before his fronts. He has about 8000 miles on them. No drifting with the e-brake or anything of that sort. All babied miles. What is the life of the rear pads generally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 traction control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker45 Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 traction control. +1 Bet he drives around with his traction control on all the time, even when he's going to get on it alot. First thing I do after I start my car is turn the T/C off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastPhil Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Hey guys my friend has a GT500KR which has the same brakes as a regular GT500 if I am not mistaken. He recently heard some sounds from his brakes a kind of grinding rough sound. His brakes also started to get soft. Upon inspection he saw his rear rotors scratched deep. His front brakes look like they are in mint condition. Is there any possible reason why his rears would go out before his fronts. He has about 8000 miles on them. No drifting with the e-brake or anything of that sort. All babied miles. What is the life of the rear pads generally? +10, Traction Control, clamps the rear brakes when it sees anything close to slippage, but the car has enough torque to drive thru the brakes, thus you end up with destroyed rear Pads (and eventually rotors) without ever feeling it or knowing it. Have seen this happen in a single track event due to not turning off the Trac Control. Just replace brakes and then remember to turn off each time you start as mentioned above. Praise will be to the guy who can make the traction control be off as the norm in an SCT tune, and then we turn on if we need it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSGT500 Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Could the parking brake cables be adjusted too tightly? From my experience, there should be at least 4 clicks needed on the lever to apply the brakes. If the rear lower control arms have been changed, it's also possible that the cables are routed in a manner that is causing the rear pads to drag. Will the car roll gently to a stop without the brakes applied or does it feel like something is dragging? I run with my traction control on all the time and have not encounterd what I would consider excessive rear brake pad wear. That includes track events. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfarmdog Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 I thought traction control pulled timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasShelby Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Mine did the exact same thing, so have a couple other owners I know. Something about the float pin gets stuck in the rear brakes. It almost ruined my rears at only 20k and no notice, by the time you hear it, the damage is done. I replaced mine with Porterfield pads and have had great performance from them and almost no brake dust, but follow the instructions exactly or they will squeak. (myroadster.net) A lot of guys have replaced theirs with AutoZone's Duramax Gold with similar reports of reduced brake dust issues. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Is there any possible reason why his rears would go out before his fronts. He has about 8000 miles on them. No drifting with the e-brake or anything of that sort. All babied miles. What is the life of the rear pads generally? Is the outer pad worn and the inner looks good? That would be the caliper pin/s binding. Is one side worn and the other good? That *could* be traction control using one brake to keep the wheel from spinning which *could* indicate a bad limited slip clutch pack. Or it could just be that one side wore faster. Both rear brakes worn out? I'd look at your parking brake adjustment or caliper piston binding (a well known problem with e-brakes on discs). EDIT: Oh yeah, generally you get 2:1 or 3:1 brake pad wear, front to rear (2-3 front changes for each rear change) as the fronts do about 70% of the work on a brake system. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 I replaced my brake pads at 6700 miles not because of wear but because of the excessive brake dust. The OEM pads I removed still had plenty of life left. 1. Suggest removing the slider pins, inspecting and lubing. 2. Make sure the caliper rests over the springs on the back side of the pads straight-on and not at an angle 3. Make sure the piston face is positioned correctly so that the notch on the face of the piston fits over the pin on the backside of the inboard pad. 4. Check e-brake adjustment. There shouldn't be any binding when you turn the tire with the e-brake off. Here's how the rear brakes are assembled: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/655290-replacing-rear-brake-pads.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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