What are you using to wash & dry the KR with

[tommythetech]

Going to wash the KR for the first time, just wanting to know from other team members what are you using. Mine is black and i am worried about scratches. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

[jo137649]

Going to wash the KR for the first time, just wanting to know from other team members what are you using. Mine is black and i am worried about scratches. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

 

 

First thing first and it goes without saying...never take the KR to any car washes regardless if it advertises hand wash cuz they will leave scratches. No one will ever wash your baby better than you can.

 

I personally use the Mequiars gold class shampoo & conditioner. I don't use any of these fancy soaps that advertise a protectant wax or coat...most will do more harm than good. Use just the amount on the label or less (you dont want it super soapy cuz it will take longer to rinse off your car) Remember you just want to remove the surface contaminants not a scrub down.

Use a very soft wash mitt (use the soft side that wont scratch your car). apply light to moderate pressure when washing you car with the mit.

i was the car in sections so i dont hose the whole car so that water spots dont settle as you are washing other sections.

water dry the soap off (this technique leave minimal beads of water for you to dry off)

your either a shammy or a very soft towel and get the remaining beads off.

 

 

once every 4 months i do a clay bar treatment to get the contaminants out of your paint and then apply wax. I dont wax everytime i wash...doesnt need it. It feels silky smooth after you do it.

[jo137649]

Ive owned my KR for almost two years now and people are amazed that it looks like i drove it off the showroom floor. i just do what i mentioned above.

[terumi71]

I use Mcguires soap (sp), also.

 

The BIGGEST problem, especially with black that throws ALL the light....is contamination of the rag. THAT'S where you get swirls. And that's why never let anyone else wash it even if they hand wash. Their rags are contaminated.

 

As so, my philosophy on washing the car is based on contamination. First, I do the wheels. Microfiber for everything of the car, including the rims. I will use about 5 microfiber towels (Costco sells them by the stack for I think $16.00). Wheels first.

 

Then the whole car gets rinsed real good...trying to get as much dirt off as I can before I touch the paint with a rag.

 

Then I use another microfiber and wash all the areas that have the most dirt....down low and on the back of the car. Once that's done, then I do the rest of the car with other microfiber towels.

 

i constantly check...like CONSTANTLY, the rag I'm using, looking for any foreign particles. I rinse them real good BEFORE I put it back in the bucket with soap and constantly flip them while wiping.

 

Dry with microfiber towels. I don't use a shammy. In my experience, even though you think you have the shammy completely and UNIFORMILY damp, there can be edges/creases where there is little/no water. And these areas scratch the car. Maybe its just me, I don't know. I use the microfibers the whole way. Wipe off the excess water, and get the water level on the paint to a minimum, then go over it with a bone dry microfiber towel to completely lift the water spots.

 

I finish with a light spray wax each time. Others don't do this. But I was told it will help over time.

 

There's a guy I met at a carshow that details cars in Costa Mesa CA. He said to come over and he will show me step by step how to keep the paint baby smooth. So I'm gonna do that one of these days.

 

And still, you'll get swirls. A lot less. But you'll get them. Thats where the clay bar comes in. And hopefully this detail guy who says he's going to give me all the secrets. But in day-to-day washing, that's what I do. In my mind, its all about the contamination. I like to see the soap bucket after I'm done, sparkling clean. Not even a hint of brown dishwater appearance. Sparkling clean. Then I feel like I've done all I can to keep the contamination out.

 

I don't know whether its true or not, but I heard it, so I do it. When wiping, especially on a black car, don't wipe in circles. Wipe in straight lines. Any swirls will later be much easier removed than if you wash by wiping in circles. Don't know if its true or not, but that's what I do!

[Mustang_Scotty]

Let me just say this. Purchase an electric leaf blower just for the KR. ( dont ever use it for anything else and dont put the blower flat down on the ground, always on its side) And after every wash, blow the car dry. The blower takes out every drop of water from every crevice on the KR, behind the letters and logos, rear view mirrors, gas cap door, door seams, wheels etc. I even open the hood, trunk and doors and blow them out also. And you cannot believe how much water will keep coming out between the front splitter and the body of the car. There is no way any rag or towel can do this and stops the stain drips if you didnt use the blower. You cannot beat the way that the blower works on the car especially if the car is waxed properly the water just flows off the car.. You will be amazed.

[08KR525]

I agree with Scotty completely. I purchased an electric blower for my HDs. Then I realized how effective it was on my other vehicles, but it is only used in my wash room.

[SicShelby]

If you want a step by step, read these threads and adhere to them - there's a TON of great information in here on how to properly care for your car:

 

< Auto Detailing Guide >

 

< How to Properly Wash and Dry a Car >

 

I have personally met Todd Cooprider, when I lived in Columbus. He's the owner of Esoteric Detail, and he provides a lot of help on the Detailed Image website. I think his work speaks for itself.

 

Happy cleaning!

 

P.S. This is a great one too (in fact everything on that site is awesome IMO):

 

< 2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl (Part 1) >

[09KR0058]

I use all Zaino products. Order one of the kits, and they send you detailed instructions. Follow them, and you won't believe the long lasting shine.

 

Oh, and +1,000 on the electric leaf blower.

[Mustang_Scotty]

Also forgot to tell you. After rinsing the car, take the nozzle off the hose and run the water at around half pressure. Trickle the water from top to bottom of the car. If the car is waxed the water from the hose will basically dry the car or take off 80% of the water off. Check the video.

 

[twicebitten]

i use pinnacle products and fourstar . here is a link to browse.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/

[jerseygator]

Also forgot to tell you. After rinsing the car, take the nozzle off the hose and run the water at around half pressure. Trickle the water from top to bottom of the car. If the car is waxed the water from the hose will basically dry the car or take off 80% of the water off. Check the video.

 

 

 

 

+1

I use Adams products http://www.adamspolishes.com/ (It's process more than product)

They call this process "pooling" the water. I only do this if I'm hand drying (with detail spray). I don't find it necessary to do this if using a leafblower as mentioned above. It blows almost every drop of water off the car. I wouldn't wash a well wax car with out a leafblower! Then a detal spray wipe down.

[Don Breech]

So, what do you use on the tape stripes? Especially matte black ones?

 

Don

[Wayne Grey]

I have a Black 1974 Plymouth that has never had a great finish. I have tried all types of waxes and treatments with limited success until Turtle Wax brought out the BLACK BOX. It is only for black cars. I did the treatment on the Plymouth and it looked like it was a new paint job. This is on original paint (the car just turned 10,000 miles - I bought it new) which has no clear coat unlike the new Shelbys, but the testimonies on the Turtle Wax Black Box site have glowing reports from new car owners that are using it on clear coated cars. It is a whole 3 step treatment (I did each step twice).