First Oil Change (?)

[Madlock]

I've run-up 500 on the odometer, and I have to admit both the 5.4 L AND the Tremec 6 are beginning to unwind nicely. The engine becomes more willing with each trip out, and each shift is just a little bit less notchy. I doubt shifting will ever be a truly elegant mechanical maneuver with this particular model of transmission, but I have to admit absolutely loving the short throws.

 

So, I've been contemplating my first oil change. I'd intended to have it done at 500 miles, but I've heard (admittedly anecdotally) from more than one Ford service tech and Mustang tuning shop that Ford is recommending NOT changing the oil for at least the first 2,500 miles by virtue of additives that would be lost when dumping the maiden oil. I've been told it's not exactly "break-in oil", but nonetheless different from oil that'd be used thereafter, and it's best to run the engine for a considerable period (up to 5,000 or 6 months) before the first change.

 

I'm certainly not doubting any of the people who've told me this as they certainly have more experience than I, but I remain somewhat concerned about simply accepting it as gospel because despite their veracity, none could point to a single published recommendation from Ford to that effect. Not to mention the fact that most local Ford dealers - the ones that just can't help themselves from slapping that $10,000 ADM sticker on their showroom Shelbys - don't even stock the Motorcraft Synthetic 5W-50 oil the GT500 requires or FRPP Oil Filters.

 

I'd welcome any insight or helpful recommendations from others about my GT500's first oil change (when, etc.).

 

I'm an admitted Mobil 1 devotee, and it's about the only way I ever tend to deviate from the OEM's published specs. After a week of trying to track-down a local source for Mobil 1 5W-50, I managed to get in-touch with a shop in a neighboring state who performs Mobil 1 5W-50 changes and was good enough to put me in-touch with its distributor who happens to be local to me. So, when they had 9 quart-cases on-hand, I bought them all - and I picked-up a half-dozen Ford Racing Oil Filters to go with them. I figure I should be good-to-go in terms of having my oil changed at any Ford dealer (at MY convenience instead of theirs) for at least the first 25,000.

 

Thanks for any help others may choose to share.

[Shelby.GT500]

+1 . I would also like to know the step by step on how to change oil in the 2011 GT500. I mean I know it is simple (drain the oil, replace the filter, and put the new oil) and i've done my own oil changes for all my previous cars. I just want to confirm the steps I guess or if something we need to watch out for. My car has only 112 miles and I will probably do the oil change at 5k miles.

[inyadreems]

As far as I know Ford Motorcraft and Castrol are the only 2 oils that meet Ford WSS-M2C931-B; not sure about Mobile 1.

 

I use Castrol with a FRPP Filter and change the oil every 2k miles or about every 6 months. I drive the car about 2,500 miles a year. Do a search and you will find a ton of info on oil changes.[/url]

[Madlock]

As far as I know Ford Motorcraft and Castrol are the only 2 oils that meet Ford WSS-M2C931-B; not sure about Mobile 1.

 

I use Castrol with a FRPP Filter and change the oil every 2k miles or about every 6 months. I drive the car about 2,500 miles a year. Do a search and you will find a ton of info on oil changes.

 

 

 

Wow! Only 2,500 miles per year? You have FAR better impulse control than I. My hat's off.

 

You raise a VERY good point. I hope I didn't just pull a "ready, FIRE... aim" with $450.00 worth of oil. I've just never been partial to Castrol - so I would default to Motorcraft's Synthetic 5W-50 as the OEM spec.

 

I've searched and read a great deal about GT500 oil changes, and especially with respect to 2011 and the aluminum block, well... you know what they say about opinions. There's just no specific clarity - or bulletin to point to for guidance as to whether or not the first oil change interval should be different than any others - and if so, how.

 

I'll be giving SVT a call on Monday about the Mobil 1. Thanks for your help!

 

 

[gr8snkbite]

Funny Ford doesn't mention anywhere about these special additives in the orig oil.....if it's any diff then the required oil, I'd like to know. Changed mine at around 1800 miles after a long cross country drive back with it...got a good break in.

 

As for changing it yourself, nothing special. Gotta drop the new plastic protective cover under the car to get access to the filter. I generally loosen the filter after draining the pan, and allow the excess to dribble down the filter into the pan. No mess. Once it's done, I slowly remove it. Then add a new FRPP oil filter filling it half way first with new oil. Put the remaining 6.5qts in and check the level. Usually is good.

[6-Speed]

+1 . I would also like to know the step by step on how to change oil in the 2011 GT500. I mean I know it is simple (drain the oil, replace the filter, and put the new oil) and i've done my own oil changes for all my previous cars. I just want to confirm the steps I guess or if something we need to watch out for. My car has only 112 miles and I will probably do the oil change at 5k miles.

 

This thread shows how it's done for a 2007 to 2009 GT500. The basic steps apply to performing an oil change for any vehicle, but the details such as capacity and drain plug torque may not apply. It's a simple process, but some dealer techs have a difficult time getting it right.

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/685466-how-i-change-oil-my-2007-gt500.html

[kgillespie06]

This thread shows how it's done for a 2007 to 2009 GT500. The basic steps apply to performing an oil change for any vehicle, but the details such as capacity and drain plug torque may not apply. It's a simple process, but some dealer techs have a difficult time getting it right.

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/685466-how-i-change-oil-my-2007-gt500.html

 

 

 

Good instructions.

 

I do it a little differently with my 2010. I do not use ramps. I remove the left front wheel to access the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug. With the wheel out of the way, it is easier to protect the frame from the oil that drips from the oil filter. I use a combination of newspapers and oil absorbent pads to protect the frame.

 

As far as oil change intervals, my first oil change was at a little over 1,000 miles. Second change was 6 months later at a little over 2,100 miles. I am not able to drive the car that often, so I use 6 month service intervals.

 

I use the Ford Racing oil filter and, for now, Motorcraft 5W-50 synthetic.

[Madlock]

Funny Ford doesn't mention anywhere about these special additives in the orig oil.....if it's any diff then the required oil, I'd like to know. Changed mine at around 1800 miles after a long cross country drive back with it...got a good break in.

 

 

Yeah, I know. The problem is the plethora of information available from people I'd call "credible" (whether by virtue of being Ford-affiliated or their experience with GT500 in a professional capacity) - who frequently contradict each other, but none of whom can provide a specific document, TSB, published spec, etc. which says, "The optimal first oil change for 2011 GT500 occurs at the following mileages depending upon the following driving conditions" or "Your GT500 comes from the factory with additives...".

 

Of course, in the absence of something specific, one might default to believing the first oil change should occur at the same interval as any other according to the vehicle's maintenance schedule - and while it wouldn't be AS likely that Ford would publish a document to reiterate something that's NOT the case - from the perspective of clarification among one of their most inherently detail-oriented and anal-retentive enthusiast owners, it'd be VERY welcome. On the other hand, anything Ford puts to writing, it owns - including any consequences. You never have the burden of refuting anything you don't say.

 

Just to keep the thread on-topic, the information I'm hoping to find pertains to WHEN the first oil change should occur, not HOW.

 

Many thanks to all who've replied so far.

 

 

 

[skeet]

Make sure that when you remove the old filter that the gasket is on the filter. If it isn't it is stuck to the flange on the car. It can be real messy if you install the new filter on top of the gasket from the old one and start the car.

[Madlock]

Make sure that when you remove the old filter that the gasket is on the filter. If it isn't it is stuck to the flange on the car. It can be real messy if you install the new filter on top of the gasket from the old one and start the car.

 

 

Good advice! Thanks!

 

The other caveat I've been admonished more than once has been to ensure 1/2 quart is poured INTO the new filter, and a well-lubed finger is run around the seal BEFORE the new filter is affixed (get your mind out of the gutter...) I've heard horror stories of oil changes gone wrong by virtue of a single dry startup after an oil change due to an incomplete seal or oil that wasn't staged within the system well enough before ignition.

 

Maybe I'm just paranoid, but for as relatively inexpensive as they happen to be - for all the damage that can result if ignored or done improperly, but I'm an oil change zealot.

 

Although I always have it dealer-serviced, I'm always surprised by how little dealer service staff sometime knows (or cares). A top-notch dealer service department is worth its weight in gold to the customers lucky enough to have one nearby.

[SVT NAJA]

For my 2010 GT500, I followed advice found elsewhere on this site to change oil & filter for the first time at the 1,000 mile mark using the Ford spec oil / filter. Spec oil to preserve warranty and 1,000 miles to remove any fine machining particulates found in most all new engines (that are then captured by the filter). As far as special additives, nothing new here. All hand bulit engines (like the 5.4L produced on the Romeo - Niche Line) use special bulk lubricants during assembly (by this crew http://www.nicheline...m/BUILDERS.html ) to keep moving parts from seizing during installation and startup. These "special" additives are then summarily washed away into the 6.5 quarts of bulk spec oil the engine is primed with. Beyond that, these one time assembly lubricants have no special properties that must remain in the engine.