TheKurgan Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Yeah that Graphix Off I heard about from another member on here. Just brush it on with a paint brush and let it sit about 5 minutes then those come right off. It does not hurt the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Plastic razor blades are your friend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 A standard "blow dryer" doesn't get hot enough but a heat gun will - it does require care, however, it can melt plastic and burn paint! Best time to remove stripes is in the Summer - let it sit outside in the bright sun and this will help soften the vinyl. All you ever wanted to know about the scoops is in the Hood Scoop thread! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Alright I'm going to tackle the original stripe removal soon. I have all the following stuff either purchased or on order: - 1500W Steamer from Harbor Freight - 16oz GraphxOff (and applicator brush) - GraphxOff 3"x4" plastic scraper - Plastic scraper that holds plastic razor blades (10ct of those) - 8oz Goo Gone - Lil Chizler scrapers (3pk) I'm still dreading the job but having the right tools and working at my leisure in garage should get me through it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 A professional removal will take care of all the tools, time and hassle. You will have to have a professional install them anyway, wont you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Just finished reading this old thread going back to Randy's original posts. Takes me down memory lane with all the original owners dealing with replacement strips, replacement hoods, and what type of rivet to use. We have all come a long way since we purchased our Shelbys new. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 The car has it's own place in the garage and isn't a DD, so I'll take my time and do it and then give it fresh wax. If it takes me 80 hours, so be it, but I'll take very good care of the paint. As for install of the new stripes... my plan right now is to do it myself. But that may change... that's obviously much easier but it also has to be done right fairly quickly... so 4 experienced hands working under lot of shop lights may be the way to go. I've installed vinyl on my Jeep and it isn't all that hard, but there just really isn't as much room for error with the Shelby. A professional removal will take care of all the tools, time and hassle. You will have to have a professional install them anyway, wont you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 I was quoted $1300 to have the stripes removed by a professional automotive vinyl graphics guy local to me and $500 by a semi-professional detailer. Damaging the paint has been my greatest frear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 Hard water (and any water period, left standing) on our stripes is a HUGE The sun added in for good measure on the above is the final dagger!! I know guys that drive their cars all the time and have lots and lots of miles, and their stripes look like mine. It’s all about care and maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfield2a Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 Hotrod cam's? I can't make out the exhause on your car. What you got goin' on with that beast? The idle note is really good. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 Hotrod cam's? I can't make out the exhause on your car. What you got goin' on with that beast? The idle note is really good. Yes. It's the original stock 4.6L, mod list copied from another forum below. I've had it on 2 dynos... one made 590whp and the other 530whp. The first dyno is known to read high so I take more stock in the second one. I haven't raced it in a year or two, but it reliably traps 118-120mph here in Denver, DA is usually around 6,000' ASL. I've never been good at launching it.... I can get 11.7x-11.9x "all day" but have landed a few runs in the 11.5x range. ENGINE AND FUEL 4.6L 3V, STOCK, Dyno= 530rwhp (1.15CF, Carz Performance), Dyno=590whp (1.23CF, RWR Motorsports) Whipple HO Supercharger Kit (3.1" pulley, 9.5PSI) GT500 Fuel Pumps Kenne Bell GT500 Dual Boost-a-pumps 60lbs Injectors GT500 Throttle Body Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Blower Cams SCT Tuner on 91oct tune N2MB WOT box (for LC and FFS) MAFia MAF Extender DRIVETRAIN 5 speed manual Exedy 500 Clutch One-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft 3.73 Gears SLP Line Lock Kit SUSPENSION Ford Racing Suspension Kit J&M Lower Control Arms J&M Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm K-Member Brace Sway Bar Relocation Kit TIRES AND WHEELS DarkStar 17x7 Front Firestone Ziex 912 225/17/55 Front DarkStar 17x9.5 Rear Mickey Thompson Street Radial II 285/45/17 Rear EXHAUST Pypes Long Tube Headers Pypes X-Pipes Pypes High Flow Cats Ford Racing Axle Back Mufflers INTERIOR MGW Rally Shifter Roush Vent Pods Carbon Fiber Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauges Push to Start EXTERIOR Shelby Hood Pins Shelby Window Covers Shelby Fuel Door & Grille Shelby Grille Raxiom Gen5 2013 Style Tail Lights MISCELLANEOUS UPR Billet Tensioner Sequential Lights Shorty Antenna Here is a run at the strip... sorry to hijack this thread and get it so off topic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfield2a Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Nice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIKEBOY Posted December 8, 2017 Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Nice!! +100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Well I spent 90 minutes on the stripe removal project just now. I just used my new $79 Harbor Freight Steamer and some plastic razor blades and scraper holder for the blades for removal. I had to scrub a bit to get the adhesive off in just a few places, then washed the area and waxed it. I may wax it one more time, but I'm happy to report I've got the confidence and simple tools to do the job myself. I'll just tackle it in small pieces and take my time.... hmmm... time to start shopping for the matte black shelby-style stripes that will be going on once this is done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 Just had a thought... I was planning on removing all the old silver stripes before installing new matte black stripes... but I think I'll have a much better install if I instead remove all the left side stripes, and install the new left side stripes before removing the right... then remove the right and install the right. This way, it will be quite easy to be sure and confident that the new stripes are lined up exactly right since I can use the old silver stripes as a guide to guarantee they are dead-on parallel and correct as they go on... makes sense, eh? So, I'll have a short period of time where I'll have new matte black left stripes and old milky silver stripes on the right... ha.. may drive it like that for a week or two.. but no more than that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Just had a thought... I was planning on removing all the old silver stripes before installing new matte black stripes... but I think I'll have a much better install if I instead remove all the left side stripes, and install the new left side stripes before removing the right... then remove the right and install the right. This way, it will be quite easy to be sure and confident that the new stripes are lined up exactly right since I can use the old silver stripes as a guide to guarantee they are dead-on parallel and correct as they go on... makes sense, eh? So, I'll have a short period of time where I'll have new matte black left stripes and old milky silver stripes on the right... ha.. may drive it like that for a week or two.. but no more than that! Makes sense to me if you are sticking with vinyl Have you thought about painting them on ? Also what are you going to do about the hood scoop, only vinyl on that is the center stripe. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 Yep I'm sticking with vinyl. I'll probably need to go through this every 8-10 years, I guess. I don't have a plan yet for the hood scoop, but definitely need to figure something out. I'm thinking that I'll finish the job and take the car to a body shop and have them paint the silver scoop and match it with the matte black of the new vinyl. At that point, not sure whether I'll have them paint it two-tone (with non-matte black center stripe) or just leave the vinyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfield2a Posted December 10, 2017 Report Share Posted December 10, 2017 If your car is in the garge and you are using UV protectant on the strips they should last a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yep I'm sticking with vinyl. I'll probably need to go through this every 8-10 years, I guess. I don't have a plan yet for the hood scoop, but definitely need to figure something out. I'm thinking that I'll finish the job and take the car to a body shop and have them paint the silver scoop and match it with the matte black of the new vinyl. At that point, not sure whether I'll have them paint it two-tone (with non-matte black center stripe) or just leave the vinyl. after painting the scoop matt black, I would stick with vinyl for the scoop strip since you are going vinyl for the stripes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Unexpected snag on my stripe removal... apparently my hood has an extra layer of clearcoat on it, but only where the stripes weren't. Now that the hood stripes are nearly off, I've got some pretty clear lines running the length of the hood. Unfortunately, while scraping and working the vinyl off, some places where the clearcoat stopped became jagged and or white (where wax borders it.) When I put the new stripes on, I will need to increase the center gap between stripes by around a quarterinch so that I can move the stripes outward so that they nicely cover the line on the hood by about an 18'" where the clearcoat line is. As for this extra layer of clearcoat, I have no idea why it is there. It was not on the roof and I'm near positive the car has never had anything close to an accident (I am the second owner but the original owner just put it in shows and drag raced it and drove it on the weekends). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWEDEMAN Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Maybe it is not clearcoat and it is hardened wax? There should be zero clearcoat on the stripes or around/up to them, unless the car was worked on paint wise. Hmmmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Well dang it... there is indeed extra clear coat, a thick layer of it, on one side of the hood, but not the other. I can't believe it. It abutted the stripe so I never noticed it and both sides of the hood otherwise appear to have an identical finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I will make my own thread on this project shortly... but for now.. I've got the entire front end stripped, cleaned, and waxed. The new matte stripes came in the mail today. I never measured my original silver Shelby stripes but through this forum gathered that they were 10" wide. Well, turns out my original stripes were just 9" wide and the new ones that came are a bit bigger than advertised at almost 10.5" width each. This should look really good and will nicely cover the clear coat seam I've got on the hood. Love when things actually work out better than planned. I'm now 60% done with the stripe removal process and won't have much time to work on it the next week or so... it is time consuming. I've probably got 10 or so hours into the job now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 keep us posted and glad it is working out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 I have done the replacement stripe project myself so I know what your going through. Looks like yours is going very well. Please post some pics. I did a scoop removal and replacement with rivet nuts with my project. I must admit I did not have the patience for the job and hired someone. Got some advice from Bud when he was with Shelby. I needed the paint code for the red color on my Shelby GT/BJ scoop for the Body Shop doing my work. Bud gave a few tips on how they installed stripes at Shelby during original build. I remember him saying make sure you lay down a middle dividing removable hood stripe to keep both hood stripes the same distance on the front as it starts from hood running forward down on the front bumper. Thanks for your updates.......... GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Thanks guys. It is going pretty well, it is just so tedious but I've got good lighting and a big garage with a nice stereo and this isn't my DD, so I'm just tackling it in 60-90 minute increments. As for stripe removal, here is what is working for me: 1) Steam in 2-3" areas, often continuing to apply heat (I'm using a steamer but a heat gun would probably work just as well) while pulling with fingers 2) I'm using a 3"x4" plastic scraping tool to get up enough stripe material to then work it with my fingers 3) While pulling with my fingers, the key is to pull gently but firmly and steadily and apply just enough heat to make this possible 4) After stripe is removed, I'm using the GraphXOff product to remove adhesive residue left behind. (Goo Gone is completely worhtless for this). I am brushing it on, letting it sit a minute, and using that same plastic scraper tool to work the adhesive free. 5) After adhesive removal, there is still a lot of leftover sticky swirly scum and at that point I'm using Goo Gone and paper towels over and over to work that residue free. 6) Then I am waxing and buffing (but, I will remove the wax prior to new stripe install). Here are a couple pictures... one is the hood stripes mostly removed, another is the whole front end removed and cleaned up, and the 3rd shows the new stripe width compared to original stripes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 very nice ...............gg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 "...4) After stripe is removed, I'm using the GraphXOff product to remove adhesive residue left behind. (Goo Gone is completely worhtless for this). I am brushing it on, letting it sit a minute, and using that same plastic scraper tool to work the adhesive free. 5) After adhesive removal, there is still a lot of leftover sticky swirly scum and at that point I'm using Goo Gone and paper towels over and over to work that residue free. ..." My go-to adhesive remover is whatever Spray-n-Wash evolved into (Resolve?). A little spray, a little wait, a little wipe—done. It works on an enzyme principle, so the non-mineral stuff is eaten by the enzymes, transforming it to gooey but non-adhesive stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT3249 Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 Well I got quite a bit more work done on this but wow everything is just so time-consuming. I thought putting the new stripes on would take far less time than removing the old, but it is also taking me forever. Here are some updates... First, fully stripped of stripes, finally! Getting ready for the first stripes.. figured I'd start with the trunk working in smaller sections... And this is how it sits this morning... the trunk is done, except putting the Shelby lettering back one, and I am dreading the rear bumper and getting the cut-out for the license area just perfect. I was not excited about putting that gawdy chome circle trunk badge on and didn't think it would go well with the muted matte black stripes.. so I have this SHR black matte billet trunk emblem coming in the mail... https://www.americanmuscle.com/shr-black-medallion-0509-plain.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 nice progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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