frazierfreud Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 just noticed i have really bad wear on inside portion of front tires...showing radials. the rest of the tire's tread looks to be in good shape. i'm not sure what the appropriate terminology is, but i believe my tires are "toed in". what is the fix? i've heard of people using caster/camber plates? do i just have bad springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfarmdog Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 These cars are set up that way from the factory and I believe it has to do with more aggressive handling it provides. I had the same issue and that is what a Ford mechanic told me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaporDude Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 These cars are set up that way from the factory and I believe it has to do with more aggressive handling it provides. I had the same issue and that is what a Ford mechanic told me. It looks like he lowered his car with the FRPP springs. Who changed out your springs? Did they align the car after the springs were installed? Some of these cars need to have the camber/caster relocation brackets installed. Mine was one of those fortunate ones. The car will need to have an alignment done once they are installed. When you lower the car and don't align it, the inside of the tires willl wear prematurely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justindewoody Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I believe that you are experiencing premature tire wear due to LOW BLINKER FLUID. Check the blinker fluid dipstick to make sure you are not low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker45 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 It looks like he lowered his car with the FRPP springs. Who changed out your springs? Did they align the car after the springs were installed? Some of these cars need to have the camber/caster relocation brackets installed. Mine was one of those fortunate ones. The car will need to have an alignment done once they are installed. When you lower the car and don't align it, the inside of the tires willl wear prematurely. I just noticed that there seems to be a different set of camber/caster plates for those with Eibach suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimC Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I just noticed that there seems to be a different set of camber/caster plates for those with Eibach suspension. Yep it is because of the size for the stud and nut used on the shocks. Some brands use larger sizes and hence the difference. Been looking into changing my set up and everyone said I would need adjustable plates, when I said I had them, they all asked the same questions, what kind (wanting to know if they were theirs) then they asked, what was diameter of the opening to make sure the shock stud and nut would fit. Other then that - I think yaw I nose there I goes thunk'en again, an adjustable chamber plate is an adjustable chamber plate except for the hole diameter they all do the same thing. Because they all said my plates would work if the diameter size was large enough to let the parts fit properly..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CobraKaz Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 just noticed i have really bad wear on inside portion of front tires...showing radials. the rest of the tire's tread looks to be in good shape. i'm not sure what the appropriate terminology is, but i believe my tires are "toed in". what is the fix? i've heard of people using caster/camber plates? do i just have bad springs? My old SC 97 Cobra had the same issue . It was because i had the car lowered . It toes the fronts in real bad . Need Caster camber plates and a good shop to re-aline them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker45 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Yep it is because of the size for the stud and nut used on the shocks. Some brands use larger sizes and hence the difference. Been looking into changing my set up and everyone said I would need adjustable plates, when I said I had them, they all asked the same questions, what kind (wanting to know if they were theirs) then they asked, what was diameter of the opening to make sure the shock stud and nut would fit. Other then that - I think – yaw I nose there I goes thunk'en again, an adjustable chamber plate is an adjustable chamber plate except for the hole diameter they all do the same thing. Because they all said my plates would work if the diameter size was large enough to let the parts fit properly..... I'm looking into getting some for my new tires. The Shelby ones are supossed to work with the Eibachs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastPhil Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 just noticed i have really bad wear on inside portion of front tires...showing radials. the rest of the tire's tread looks to be in good shape. i'm not sure what the appropriate terminology is, but i believe my tires are "toed in". what is the fix? i've heard of people using caster/camber plates? do i just have bad springs? You may or may not need the Cas / Camber plates, depends on how much you lowered the car, many cars ship with the wrong alignment from the factory and have this issue even if not lowered, you need a reputable alignment shop to align the car, and they will tell you if they can get in spec with or without the plates. Might also check with other forum members with your spring setup to see if they needed the plates. FP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 If you lower your car, the camber is going to become more negative regardless if it ends up within the -1.5 degree spec. Camber plates just allows you to tailor the camber to your performance needs and tolerance for tire wear. I have my car's camber set to -0.8 and -0.9 degrees using Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates to help my tires last. Toe is also very important for tire wear. Always have your alignment checked whenever you lower the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimC Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 If you lower your car, the camber is going to become more negative regardless if it ends up within the -1.5 degree spec. Camber plates just allows you to tailor the camber to your performance needs and tolerance for tire wear. I have my car's camber set to -0.8 and -0.9 degrees using Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates to help my tires last. Toe is also very important for tire wear. Always have your alignment checked whenever you lower the car. What is the Ideal setting for a car that has been lowered aboutt 1.5 inches wit the FRRP handling Package, is it -08 / -09 ??? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Mine was doing the same thing. I installed FRPP springs right before I changed out the tires. I fixed my issue with camber bolts, which are a great alternative to c/c plates. You can get them from Ingalls for ~$40 or so. The part number is 81260 if I remember correctly. The cam bolt will replace the top strut bolt and allow you more camber. You can get them from < Tire Rack > or see if your mechanic can find them locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frazierfreud Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 thanks for replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimC Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Mine was doing the same thing. I installed FRPP springs right before I changed out the tires. I fixed my issue with camber bolts, which are a great alternative to c/c plates. You can get them from Ingalls for ~$40 or so. The part number is 81260 if I remember correctly. The cam bolt will replace the top strut bolt and allow you more camber. You can get them from < Tire Rack > or see if your mechanic can find them locally. You have the springs, do you have/need/ want the shocks and Struts to go with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glroy Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 stock front end and 34K miles I have wear on my second set of tires inside. front struts use a rubber donuts to hold the struts in place, the rubber will flex on even mildly spirited driving tire will wear on inside. you need to replace those rubber donuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbymustangdan Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 This may be a stupid question..... Once you visually "notice" the inside wear on your front tires, then address the root cause of the problem, have it aligned properly, will the tires eventually wear down into a "normal" wear pattern?? Or will you for ever hear that road rumble until you put new tires on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapor08GT500 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Guys....the camber bolts only slightly help. Like Glen said, there is a 4" diameter rubber bushing in the stock upper strut mount that flexes and causes the tire to not be perpendicular to the road on corners. I use the Shelby/Maximum Motorsports camber caster plate which uses a spherical bearing for proper articulation on every build I do and it not only firms up the front end, you get rid of the inner tire wear. They are WELL worth the money!! Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 What is the Ideal setting for a car that has been lowered aboutt 1.5 inches wit the FRRP handling Package, is it -08 / -09 ??? Thanks This is not optimum if you track the car ... you would be better off with more negative camber, but for normal street driving, my setting is near the -0.75 degree mid point of the specified range for camber and should reduce tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimC Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 This is not optimum if you track the car ... you would be better off with more negative camber, but for normal street driving, my setting is near the -0.75 degree mid point of the specified range for camber and should reduce tire wear. Thanks I do about 70 normal driving and 30 high speed or track. jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 Mine was doing the same thing. I installed FRPP springs right before I changed out the tires. I fixed my issue with camber bolts, which are a great alternative to c/c plates. You can get them from Ingalls for ~$40 or so. The part number is 81260 if I remember correctly. The cam bolt will replace the top strut bolt and allow you more camber. You can get them from < Tire Rack > or see if your mechanic can find them locally. On the 2007 to 2009 models, the two lower strut bolts are torqued to 148 lb-ft. Would you torque only one to 148 lb-ft and the other to 77 lb-ft? That's essentially what you are doing when you install the camber bolts. This is why I prefer the camber plates over the bolts, I can adjust the alignment and keep both strut bolts torqued to spec. Something else to consider, starting with the 2010 models, Ford replaced the lower strut bolts with fine threaded fasteners, that get torqued to 166 lb-ft ... I guess 148 lb-ft wasn't quite enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 You have the springs, do you have/need/ want the shocks and Struts to go with? You have those laying around too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 Guys....the camber bolts only slightly help. Like Glen said, there is a 4" diameter rubber bushing in the stock upper strut mount that flexes and causes the tire to not be perpendicular to the road on corners. I use the Shelby/Maximum Motorsports camber caster plate which uses a spherical bearing for proper articulation on every build I do and it not only firms up the front end, you get rid of the inner tire wear. They are WELL worth the money!! Alex If you have a mild drop, like the FRPP springs, camber bolts are all you need to get the alignment within perfect spec... Fixed my inner tire wear as well. On the 2007 to 2009 models, the two lower strut bolts are torqued to 148 lb-ft. Would you torque only one to 148 lb-ft and the other to 77 lb-ft? That's essentially what you are doing when you install the camber bolts. This is why I prefer the camber plates over the bolts, I can adjust the alignment and keep both strut bolts torqued to spec. Something else to consider, starting with the 2010 models, Ford replaced the lower strut bolts with fine threaded fasteners, that get torqued to 166 lb-ft ... I guess 148 lb-ft wasn't quite enough. I torqued the bolts the the recommended setting per the instructions. Why would that be an issue? If it were a head bolt I would understand, but the struts will be just as good with the cam bolts in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 I torqued the bolts the the recommended setting per the instructions. Why would that be an issue? If it were a head bolt I would understand, but the struts will be just as good with the cam bolts in it. If you installed the springs/struts yourself you would know that those two bolts hold the spindle and its attached wheel in place. I prefer not to compromise the integrity of the clamping force that those two bolts offer ... but to each his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 ^^ I can understand what you mean definitely (having less torque pinching the strut)... but show me a pair that have failed and then I'll worry about it. The strut/spindle/springs/front suspension won't go anywhere with a pair of camber bolts in there. I might be a little more hesitant if you replaced all four... But if you had to do that to get the room you want, then c/c plates might be the route to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelTownStang Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 I noticed this on my OEM set-up. The alignment was fine, the tow needed adjustment. My Razors w/Nittos are tracking fine. As mrfarmdog mentioned, I think that it's intentionally set-up this way from the factory for aid in performance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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