MGW SHIFTER INSTALLED AND NO MORE GRIND

[Radical08]

So in my other post you will see information about the 1-2 shift and 2nd gear grind. The parts replaced are listed, contacts etc. The mechanic that did the trans rebuild has done numerous Tremec 6060's from the previous GT500's that had issues. Guess I got lucky there and why I went to the biggest dealer in Jacksonville and made it know what I expect from the start.

 

This thing is smooth and quiet and no gear grind anywhere. I took her all the way up the scale and no problems at all.

 

Now for the shifter. Once I got that factory one out, what a piece of stamped steel crap it is. The mechanic even said it felt sloppy. It took me about 3 hours to install the MGW shifter only because the front rail clip was a major PITA for me to get released. The actual design and install is superb and this is what should have been installed in here. If there are ever any issues down the line it will be very easy to remove and repair what ever because of how this is put together. A top quality product and George was very good in answering my questions. The shift difference is night and day. Smooth and crisp and no doubt what gear your in or going to and no missing any gear what so ever now. It looks like it came that way when you look at it now. I went with the black ball with silver stripes and cobra snake on the side.

 

I was going to keep the stock one but why, I will never ever re-install it so in the trash it will go and the white ball is toast anyway. Ford put enough lock tight on there to survive a shuttle launch. I had to use a 14" pipe wrench with great force for at least 4 full turns to get it loose and off. Anyway the new shifter was a welcome and must mod for any GT500.

[lawdude]

So in my other post you will see information about the 1-2 shift and 2nd gear grind. The parts replaced are listed, contacts etc. The mechanic that did the trans rebuild has done numerous Tremec 6060's from the previous GT500's that had issues. Guess I got lucky there and why I went to the biggest dealer in Jacksonville and made it know what I expect from the start.

 

This thing is smooth and quiet and no gear grind anywhere. I took her all the way up the scale and no problems at all.

 

Now for the shifter. Once I got that factory one out, what a piece of stamped steel crap it is. The mechanic even said it felt sloppy. It took me about 3 hours to install the MGW shifter only because the front rail clip was a major PITA for me to get released. The actual design and install is superb and this is what should have been installed in here. If there are ever any issues down the line it will be very easy to remove and repair what ever because of how this is put together. A top quality product and George was very good in answering my questions. The shift difference is night and day. Smooth and crisp and no doubt what gear your in or going to and no missing any gear what so ever now. It looks like it came that way when you look at it now. I went with the black ball with silver stripes and cobra snake on the side.

 

I was going to keep the stock one but why, I will never ever re-install it so in the trash it will go and the white ball is toast anyway. Ford put enough lock tight on there to survive a shuttle launch. I had to use a 14" pipe wrench with great force for at least 4 full turns to get it loose and off. Anyway the new shifter was a welcome and must mod for any GT500.

 

 

 

Where'd you get it, how much, and what is delivery time?

[GOTSVT?]

I love my mgw! I can shift the begeezuz out of it at the track.

[davegt500]

Could it actually be that all the problems with high rpm 1-2 shifts are the result of a sloppy FoMoCo shifter? Those with the MGW should be able to let all the rest of us know!

 

Imagine that, if true.

 

Much akin to the cheapo vinyl tape unwanted-by-some, "racing stripes," that will only not be applied if the customer pays an additional $3500 for an equally unwanted rough riding suspension and higher numerical ratio differential which causes accelerated drive train wear rates and lower mileage on road trips.

 

Thank You, FoMoCo

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Where'd you get it, how much, and what is delivery time?

 

 

I got mine directly from MGW. I think it was $350.00 for the shifter but I bought a whole bunch of other stuff too. A second handle with course threads (vs. the stock fine thread) and a White w/Blue double stripes shifter ball plus a bunch of chrome dress up goodies.

 

ALL of it is premium top quality merchandise.

 

The URL is http://www.mgwltd.com/

 

Click on the Mustang pic and then on the year era you have.

 

FWIW, I bought a bunch of stuff from the '07-'09 section for my 2010 and it all fits.

 

You can either use the online shopping cart and buy without human intervention or call the number on the home page and get a person (I spoke to a lady) to handle your order if you have questions you need answerd.

 

Delivery time was less than a week...four days if I remember right. And they sent me a tracking number so I could see where it was from there to here.

 

 

HTH,

Phill

[cbarile]

I had the 1-2 shift grind at high rpms and quick shifting. I installed a steeda shifter and no more grind. My car is a 2007 gt500. There are other posts about the 1-2 shift grind going away after a shifter install.

[BA500]

Could it actually be that all the problems with high rpm 1-2 shifts are the result of a sloppy FoMoCo shifter? Those with the MGW should be able to let all the rest of us know!

 

Imagine that, if true.

 

Much akin to the cheapo vinyl tape unwanted-by-some, "racing stripes," that will only not be applied if the customer pays an additional $3500 for an equally unwanted rough riding suspension and higher numerical ratio differential which causes accelerated drive train wear rates and lower mileage on road trips.

 

Thank You, FoMoCo

 

 

Hi Radical 08 (sorry if I am double posting, but wherever the answer to this question goes best...)

 

So I am just wondering, BEFORE you had installed the MGW shifter, but after the repair...

 

Did the car shift BETTER than it did new, or just as well?

 

I am basically wondering if the stock shifter causes a few bad shifts and then grinds to the point of failing the syncros etc,

 

...or is the transmission just bad to begin with, and the stock shifter would be okay to use after the repair but you just prefer the MGW.

 

...or a combination of both?

 

In other words, if I just replaced my shifter with the MGW to begin with, do you think it would prevent me from developing the grind, or are the transmissions just bad to begin with.

 

Currently, mine is VERY notchy and I must use the HARD pull to the left and concentrate very hard to avoid the grind into second. It is not nearly as easy to shift as a friend of mine's car who has an 07-09 where it almost 'falls' into second in comparison.

 

Maybe SVT should just replace the shifters before they destroy all the trans's, or maybe I have a good trans but with continued use of the stock shifter, it wont be...? ...or a combination of both? bad trans's AND poor shifters?

 

You have posted the most on this, and I appreciate your details and opinion as to what could be affecting these cars.

 

If you think better shifters would eliminate damage that seems like it would be better than tech's tearing into all the trans's out there, but if the trans's are bad, then I will just seee if it becomes more of a problem.

 

I was considering a 2011, but I drove one recently, and I enjoyed driving it so much I forgot to concentrate, and the very first spirited 1-2 shift caused "the grind" (and by spirited, I mean I was not excessively abusing it or power shifting).

 

I will not be buying a new one unelss it doesn't grind, or I know the shifters are just crappy and an easy fix... or there is a TSB

 

Thanks for your detailed updates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Radical08]

Hi Radical 08 (sorry if I am double posting, but wherever the answer to this question goes best...)

 

So I am just wondering, BEFORE you had installed the MGW shifter, but after the repair...

 

Did the car shift BETTER than it did new, or just as well?

 

I am basically wondering if the stock shifter causes a few bad shifts and then grinds to the point of failing the syncros etc,

 

...or is the transmission just bad to begin with, and the stock shifter would be okay to use after the repair but you just prefer the MGW.

 

...or a combination of both?

 

In other words, if I just replaced my shifter with the MGW to begin with, do you think it would prevent me from developing the grind, or are the transmissions just bad to begin with.

 

Currently, mine is VERY notchy and I must use the HARD pull to the left and concentrate very hard to avoid the grind into second. It is not nearly as easy to shift as a friend of mine's car who has an 07-09 where it almost 'falls' into second in comparison.

 

Maybe SVT should just replace the shifters before they destroy all the trans's, or maybe I have a good trans but with continued use of the stock shifter, it wont be...? ...or a combination of both? bad trans's AND poor shifters?

 

You have posted the most on this, and I appreciate your details and opinion as to what could be affecting these cars.

 

If you think better shifters would eliminate damage that seems like it would be better than tech's tearing into all the trans's out there, but if the trans's are bad, then I will just seee if it becomes more of a problem.

 

I was considering a 2011, but I drove one recently, and I enjoyed driving it so much I forgot to concentrate, and the very first spirited 1-2 shift caused "the grind" (and by spirited, I mean I was not excessively abusing it or power shifting).

 

I will not be buying a new one unelss it doesn't grind, or I know the shifters are just crappy and an easy fix... or there is a TSB

 

Thanks for your detailed updates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

If there would have been an MGW shifter back in Feb 2010 when I bought the car I would have installed it then. My crap ass shifter was the same sloppy feel before and after the repairs and I don't trust it to hit the gear. A bad shifter can cause missed shifts and maybe start the grind leading to big issues in my opinion. I've had zero problems now that the shifter has been replaced. I'm surprised Hurst does not have one but the MGW is top of the line. I ordered the shifter, new stick and knob for about $425 shipped, and installed it myself. That cost far outweighs 30 days in the shop and grinding. I would replace it.

[davegt500]

Hi Radical 08 (sorry if I am double posting, but wherever the answer to this question goes best...)

 

So I am just wondering, BEFORE you had installed the MGW shifter, but after the repair...

 

Did the car shift BETTER than it did new, or just as well?

 

I am basically wondering if the stock shifter causes a few bad shifts and then grinds to the point of failing the syncros etc,

 

...or is the transmission just bad to begin with, and the stock shifter would be okay to use after the repair but you just prefer the MGW.

 

...or a combination of both?

 

In other words, if I just replaced my shifter with the MGW to begin with, do you think it would prevent me from developing the grind, or are the transmissions just bad to begin with.

 

Currently, mine is VERY notchy and I must use the HARD pull to the left and concentrate very hard to avoid the grind into second. It is not nearly as easy to shift as a friend of mine's car who has an 07-09 where it almost 'falls' into second in comparison.

 

Maybe SVT should just replace the shifters before they destroy all the trans's, or maybe I have a good trans but with continued use of the stock shifter, it wont be...? ...or a combination of both? bad trans's AND poor shifters?

 

You have posted the most on this, and I appreciate your details and opinion as to what could be affecting these cars.

 

If you think better shifters would eliminate damage that seems like it would be better than tech's tearing into all the trans's out there, but if the trans's are bad, then I will just seee if it becomes more of a problem.

 

I was considering a 2011, but I drove one recently, and I enjoyed driving it so much I forgot to concentrate, and the very first spirited 1-2 shift caused "the grind" (and by spirited, I mean I was not excessively abusing it or power shifting).

 

I will not be buying a new one unelss it doesn't grind, or I know the shifters are just crappy and an easy fix... or there is a TSB

 

Thanks for your detailed updates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Exactly! What if there is indeed nothing whatsoever wrong with the Tremec 6060 transmission! All along it was you, Alfredo!!?

[MattR]

Radical08,

 

How many turns out did you set the shifter at? I have often thought the throw is a little short on my 2011 and causes the notchy feel. Does it have a stock throw, shorter or longer?

 

Thanks,

 

Mine grinds and rejects second gear every time. I was on my way home last night when a 2010-11 Camaro came up behind me. As you would guess I ended up next to him at a red light with not another sole on the road. Guess what? Yup he wanted to race, I would have loved to have ran up to 70 to show him what a Shelby is all about. BUT I knew I would miss second gear, so I just waved like a douche bag and he left me in the dust. Thanks Ford.

 

My dealer has never worked on a Shelby or TR-6060. Im parking it in 4 weeks anyway, so Ill take it back in the spring.

[Radical08]

Radical08,

 

How many turns out did you set the shifter at? I have often thought the throw is a little short on my 2011 and causes the notchy feel. Does it have a stock throw, shorter or longer?

 

Thanks,

 

Mine grinds and rejects second gear every time. I was on my way home last night when a 2010-11 Camaro came up behind me. As you would guess I ended up next to him at a red light with not another sole on the road. Guess what? Yup he wanted to race, I would have loved to have ran up to 70 to show him what a Shelby is all about. BUT I knew I would miss second gear, so I just waved like a douche bag and he left me in the dust. Thanks Ford.

 

My dealer has never worked on a Shelby or TR-6060. Im parking it in 4 weeks anyway, so Ill take it back in the spring.

 

 

 

Mine was set at 4 turns out and what MGW recommended so it's not notchy. Is there an MGW in yours now and still the grind? If so it's a tranny or clutch issue.

[Radical08]

After driving it this weekend I set the turns to 5, that's right in the middle of the adjustment and perfect. I would say either 4 or 5 is where it should be set for the best shifting on the MGW. Any more would be too notchy and may cause shifting problems.

[lawdude]

Just ordered mgw shifter today to be drop-shipped to the dealership for install while waiting for tranny parts.

[GT500Tow]

Any time you increase the weight or size of your clutch disc. You've increase the work load on the syncro's. When you shift. The syncro has to slow down. The input shaft, Clutch disc, Counter shaft. Because its a higher gear the input shaft needs to be slowed down to match the speed of the next gear.. A organic clutch is the heaviest material of any clutch disc made. One reason is the thickness of the martial. Organic wears faster then metallic. This is why its harder to shift at high RPM's with a larger 10 inch organic clutch. Then a 8 1/2 inch metallic clutch or even a 10 inch metallic disc clutch. You can have your trans fixed. But i bet it doesn't last long if your speed shifting at high RPM's. A new shifter inst going to help at all.

[lawdude]

Any time you increase the weight or size of your clutch disc. You've increase the work load on the syncro's. When you shift. The syncro has to slow down. The input shaft, Clutch disc, Counter shaft. Because its a higher gear the input shaft needs to be slowed down to match the speed of the next gear.. A organic clutch is the heaviest material of any clutch disc made. One reason is the thickness of the martial. Organic wears faster then metallic. This is why its harder to shift at high RPM's with a larger 10 inch organic clutch. Then a 8 1/2 inch metallic clutch or even a 10 inch metallic disc clutch. You can have your trans fixed. But i bet it doesn't last long if your speed shifting at high RPM's. A new shifter inst going to help at all.

 

 

Do you have an opinion as to whether a WOT Box will help?

[GT500Tow]

Do you have an opinion as to whether a WOT Box will help?

 

That's a good question. I don't really have an answer for. I don't think so though. Because its the inertia of the heavier clutch disc, that's the problem. Not shift timing.

[GT500Tow]

Do you have an opinion as to whether a WOT Box will help?

 

Sorry...... :jackinbox:

[Radical08]

Attached is my new shifter. I agree with certain points about speed shifting, but if you drive the car with a good shifter and clutch and know what you are doing you are not missing gears like the crap shifter that came in the car. This new shifter is superb and the only way you will know is install it. I went 1-4 high RPM and not even a hint I would not hit the gear. I don't speed shift, and if you do expect failures I guess. There is no reason to need to speed shift the car anyway, it's plenty fast enough as long as you hit the gear. It maybe takes me .5 seconds to hit gears or less and I'm not racing it so good enough for me. If you race the car expect mechanical failures, that's the nature of the beast.

[SVTboy98]

Hey radical, how much length does the fancy jamb nut add? I was going to order that ball with the jamb nut, but I prefer the really short throws personally, so I ordered it without and plan on sticking with the factory knob for now.

[54First]

Hey radical, how much length does the fancy jamb nut add? I was going to order that ball with the jamb nut, but I prefer the really short throws personally, so I ordered it without and plan on sticking with the factory knob for now.

 

 

The fancy jam nut only adds about 1/4". The top quarter inch is threaded but the rest is smooth tube that slides down over the shifter shaft. However, the shaft for the stock knob is threaded 12 x 1.25 and the MGW knobs are 12 x 1.75, so you need to get the 12 x 1.75 shaft to use the fancy jam nut and MGW shift ball.

[Torch500]

Ok guys thanks it seems the MGW is the best and it's priced reasonable and made in the USA as a bonus! So I have an aluminum Shelby shift knob (snake on top no shift pattern inclueded) on the stock shifter, will it go on the MGW shifter without an adaptor??

 

Mark

 

"quote name='54First' timestamp='1290027573' post='1064038']

The fancy jam nut only adds about 1/4". The top quarter inch is threaded but the rest is smooth tube that slides down over the shifter shaft. However, the shaft for the stock knob is threaded 12 x 1.25 and the MGW knobs are 12 x 1.75, so you need to get the 12 x 1.75 shaft to use the fancy jam nut and MGW shift ball.

 

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Ok guys thanks it seems the MGW is the best and it's priced reasonable and made in the USA as a bonus! So I have an aluminum Shelby shift knob (snake on top no shift pattern inclueded) on the stock shifter, will it go on the MGW shifter without an adaptor??

 

 

 

MGW makes 3 different shift lever/shafts now. They only made two prior to me finding out my 2010 had a ten millimeter diameter shaft and inquired about having one made. George called and said he was going to make up "a batch" as I'm certainly not the only person that plans to use his stock/OE shift knob on a MGW shifter.

 

They make:

 

1). 10mm X 1.25 (fine)

2). 12mm X 1.25 (fine)

3). 12mm X 1.75 (course)

 

A 2007-2009 GT500 OEM shift knob uses a 12mm X 1.25 (fine thread) shaft.

 

A 2010-2011 GT500 OEM shift knob uses a 10mm X 1.25 (fine thread) shaft (a 12mm shaft with a 10mm threaded end).

 

MGW shift knobs, and MOST (not all) aftermarket shift knobs use a 12mm X 1.75 (course) threaded hole.

 

So between the three available shafts MGW makes, yes, you should be able to use your Shelby shift knob. You just need to know/find out what thread diameter and pitch they used on it. Go to The Home Depot or Lowes with the knob and find the correct bolt that screws into your shift knob. That will tell you what thread pitch/dia. you need on your MGW shift shaft/lever.

 

 

Phill

[QUIKSVT]

This thread and the posts like phills above is exactly why I love this forum.

 

I just ordered the mgw. Can't wait to install it!

[2010KonaBlueGT]

This thread and the posts like phills above is exactly why I love this forum.

I just ordered the mgw. Can't wait to install it!

 

You will NOT be disapointed. I got stalled in my installation when I found the 12mm vs. 10mm problem and I didn't finish the installation...

 

So I have mine sitting on the bench, in pieces. I've put it together, taken it back apart, played with the throw adjustment, played with the different shift shafts/levers and the MGW ball, put it back together, etc. I can't help myself! lol

 

I climbed under my car last night and started to pull the OEM shifter out. I still have the butt end lifted way up in the air but finally just put all of my OEM shocks/springs/sway bar back in so I can set it down on my ramps and lift the front of the car up so I can get under it without squeezing under it (which I found to be the case last night).

 

When I squeezed under the car and got a good look at the rear OEM shifter mount...I could NOT believe how freakin' CHEAP it was built. I can tell you just from looking at and comparing the rear shifter (body) mount, the MGW shifter will be TEN TIMES better than the OEM/stock shifter. What a piece of CRAP the Ford/OE shifter is!

 

I also read over the MGW installation instructions real close. MGW says right in their instruction sheet that the FRONT bushings on the braces are made wider than the OEM shifter bushings to keep the "side slop" out of the shifter (they say it's a known problem). They tell you to lube the sides of the bushings with non petroleum based lube (KY works GREAT for this app) because they ARE going to be tight going in...and are designed that way.

 

After inspecing this thing, I also realized that with TWO front braces, the MGW *WILL* most definately be better/tighter/stronger than the Pro 5.0 or the Steeda Tri Ax shifter. I can't see how a shifter with only one front brace could possibly be kept from having "side slop" in it (NOTE: The Shelby 6-spd shifter is the ONLY other one I've seen with TWO front braces on it).

 

I should be finishing up the install later today, provided it doesn't get any colder than it already is outside.

 

You'll know you did right when you get the MGW in your hand and look at it in person. I'm telling you, it's literally a work of art!

 

 

Phill

[QUIKSVT]

You will NOT be disapointed. I got stalled in my installation when I found the 12mm vs. 10mm problem and I didn't finish the installation...

 

So I have mine sitting on the bench, in pieces. I've put it together, taken it back apart, played with the throw adjustment, played with the different shift shafts/levers and the MGW ball, put it back together, etc. I can't help myself! lol

 

I climbed under my car last night and started to pull the OEM shifter out. I still have the butt end lifted way up in the air but finally just put all of my OEM shocks/springs/sway bar back in so I can set it down on my ramps and lift the front of the car up so I can get under it without squeezing under it (which I found to be the case last night).

 

When I squeezed under the car and got a good look at the rear OEM shifter mount...I could NOT believe how freakin' CHEAP it was built. I can tell you just from looking at and comparing the rear shifter (body) mount, the MGW shifter will be TEN TIMES better than the OEM/stock shifter. What a piece of CRAP the Ford/OE shifter is!

 

I also read over the MGW installation instructions real close. MGW says right in their instruction sheet that the FRONT bushings on the braces are made wider than the OEM shifter bushings to keep the "side slop" out of the shifter (they say it's a known problem). They tell you to lube the sides of the bushings with non petroleum based lube (KY works GREAT for this app) because they ARE going to be tight going in...and are designed that way.

 

After inspecing this thing, I also realized that with TWO front braces, the MGW *WILL* most definately be better/tighter/stronger than the Pro 5.0 or the Steeda Tri Ax shifter. I can't see how a shifter with only one front brace could possibly be kept from having "side slop" in it (NOTE: The Shelby 6-spd shifter is the ONLY other one I've seen with TWO front braces on it).

 

I should be finishing up the install later today, provided it doesn't get any colder than it already is outside.

 

You'll know you did right when you get the MGW in your hand and look at it in person. I'm telling you, it's literally a work of art!

 

 

Phill

 

Great to hear you're happy with the product. I'll admit that I just watched the install videos on MGW's website and I'm thinking this install is one of those that attempting without a lift could be a major PITA. So your first attempt was with the rear of the car on ramps, with the front on the ground? Man there's no way I think I could fit under there!! The install seems pretty straight foreward, it's just the lack of a lift that makes me think I may have this bad boy shop installed.

[54First]

I did it on front and rear ramps. No problem.

[SVTboy98]

I just got my MGW yesterday, and all I can say is what a nice piece of equipment. I hopped in a buddies super snake with the KR and took a video, took a video of my Pro 5.0, and will take a video of the MGW after I finish the install. I'll post the videos up so everyone can see the "slop" and throw comparison between the 3 of them. I'll also take pictures of the Pro 5.0 next to the MGW so you guys can see the difference. If it works as good as it looks, I'll be thrilled. I should have it installed by the weekend, unless family gets in the way .

[2010KonaBlueGT]

So your first attempt was with the rear of the car on ramps, with the front on the ground? Man there's no way I think I could fit under there!! The install seems pretty straight foreward, it's just the lack of a lift that makes me think I may have this bad boy shop installed.

 

 

Yes, my first attempt was with the back end up in the air. Actually, although I had the ramps under the rear wheels I had jackstands on the top notch under the bracket for the lower arms on the rear axle. That brought the rear end up just a few more inches.

 

I also have the back section of the exhaust off but that didn't help any. I was able to slide under the car from the side and get to the two REAR shifter mount nuts (little 10mm nuts on studs). There was no way I could reach up and get the two pins on the shifter arms though.

 

For that, I'll drop the rear wheels back don ONTO THE RAMPS and jack up the front end then stabilize with jack stands. FOR SURE I'll have enough room then (as I *nearly* had enough with just the rear end up in the air).

 

The rest is pretty much done from up top. At least according to the MGW instruction sheet.

 

A lift would be nice but it doesn't appear mandatory. At least not for this job.

 

And now the talking head on TV says we're supposed to see a HIGH temp of 28d so no telling when I'll drag my big ass out into the garage to finish it up. Guess it's time to fire up the heater and let it run for a bit, THEN go out and attempt to freeze my fingers off.

 

 

HTH,

Phill

[lawdude]

lawdude likes his mgw. money well spent

[goldgus]

Well, my MGW arrived the other day, and I don't have it installed yet - BUT I just HAD to tear into that box and check it out... Also went with the Black/Silver and Cobra on the side shifter ball. It is SWEETNESS.

It is so solid, well-built, and simply GORGEOUS. Cant wait to get it installed this weekend, and I will post up my findings on the install and performance afterwards.

Hope everyone has a HAPPY TURKEY DAY!

GUS