Car Capsule and Winterization

[F150 Duke]

Well I had more than a few good laughs at Grabber's expense two years ago when I saw his GT500 in a "bubble" for the winter. Now that I'm finally the owner of an '11 GT500 and live in Minnesota, I fully realize this car is getting parked from November through April. It’s starting to sink in that I’m really making payments on something that I’ll only be driving 6 months out of the year. We live in a neighborhood that is surrounding by farm fields; as such, we have field mice galore.

 

I now see the need and purpose of a Car Capsule. I’d like to verify my approach for winterization. I’d usually just copy Grabber all out but there are a couple items I’ve seen him do in his winterization that the Car Capsule people advise differently. I just want to make sure I take the right approach.

 

1. Oil change (dealer)

2. Air filter replacement or cleaning (dealer)

3. Fuel stabilizer in gas tank and then run car for 5 minutes to let it get into the engine

4. Extra 3 psi in each tire

5. Full detail of exterior

 

• 
   
  
• Wash
  
• Clay
  
• NXT wax
  
• Second coat of NXT wax
  
• Finishing coat of yellow wax
  
• Tire shine
  
• Polish rims and exhaust pipes
  
• Detail engine bay (not sure what to use at this point)
  
• Shine black plastic on exterior with “ICE” quick detailer
  

6. Full detail of interior

 

• 
   
  
• Vacuum
  
• Hot and wet microfiber towel to wipe down interior
  
• Wipe down windows
  
• Shampoo carpet
  
• Leather cleaner and conditioner
  

7. Pull car on capsule cover base. Hook up the battery tender.

8. This step is where Grabber and the Car Capsule people differ. Grabber puts the car cover on the car and then seals it in the bubble. The Car Capsule people say to leave the windows open and the car uncovered. I’m on the fence as to which way to go. I’d like to be able to see the car through the bubble to admire it while I freeze for 5 months, but then I also don’t even want a chance of dust (even tiny particles) sitting on the paint or going in through the windows for 5 months. The other downside I see to putting the cover on though and leaving the windows up is that it won’t vent appropriately and could build up moisture in the car if it doesn’t quickly vent out the windows. Any help or guidance here?

9. Zip it up, blow up the bubble and start counting down the days until April or a good rain to wash off the road salt on the Minnesota roads.

[Ezareth]

Well I had more than a few good laughs at Grabber's expense two years ago when I saw his GT500 in a "bubble" for the winter. Now that I'm finally the owner of an '11 GT500 and live in Minnesota, I fully realize this car is getting parked from November through April. It’s starting to sink in that I’m really making payments on something that I’ll only be driving 6 months out of the year. We live in a neighborhood that is surrounding by farm fields; as such, we have field mice galore.

 

I now see the need and purpose of a Car Capsule. I’d like to verify my approach for winterization. I’d usually just copy Grabber all out but there are a couple items I’ve seen him do in his winterization that the Car Capsule people advise differently. I just want to make sure I take the right approach.

 

1. Oil change (dealer)

2. Air filter replacement or cleaning (dealer)

3. Fuel stabilizer in gas tank and then run car for 5 minutes to let it get into the engine

4. Extra 3 psi in each tire

5. Full detail of exterior

• 
   
  
• Wash
  
• Clay
  
• NXT wax
  
• Second coat of NXT wax
  
• Finishing coat of yellow wax
  
• Tire shine
  
• Polish rims and exhaust pipes
  
• Detail engine bay (not sure what to use at this point)
  
• Shine black plastic on exterior with “ICE” quick detailer
  

6. Full detail of interior

• 
   
  
• Vacuum
  
• Hot and wet microfiber towel to wipe down interior
  
• Wipe down windows
  
• Shampoo carpet
  
• Leather cleaner and conditioner
  

7. Pull car on capsule cover base. Hook up the battery tender.

8. This step is where Grabber and the Car Capsule people differ. Grabber puts the car cover on the car and then seals it in the bubble. The Car Capsule people say to leave the windows open and the car uncovered. I’m on the fence as to which way to go. I’d like to be able to see the car through the bubble to admire it while I freeze for 5 months, but then I also don’t even want a chance of dust (even tiny particles) sitting on the paint or going in through the windows for 5 months. The other downside I see to putting the cover on though and leaving the windows up is that it won’t vent appropriately and could build up moisture in the car if it doesn’t quickly vent out the windows. Any help or guidance here?

9. Zip it up, blow up the bubble and start counting down the days until April or a good rain to wash off the road salt on the Minnesota roads.

 

I don't know if this car is deserving of such measures but to each their own.

 

Personally what I've done for my car in the past is take off the cover, start the car up and let it run reving the engine here and there for about 30 minutes a few times throughout the winter. This dries up any moisture buildup and allows oil to circulate, keeps rubber from cracking and all that jazz. Of course maybe I'm wrong but I never had any problems or issues in 10 years of storing my Saleen.

[ati]

My car goes in the Car Capsule (bubble) every winter and I leave the cover off and the windows down about 2'' so its ventilated properly. Some people put the cover on so the car doesn't get scratched from the zipper on the bubble. If you can get someone to help you, the bubble cover can be lifted over the car without the risk of scratching it. I enjoy going into the garage in the dead of winter and looking at my Shelby through the bubble. I detail the car before storage and when I open it up in the spring it is dust free and ready to go.

[Cdvision]

This will be my first winter living in a place where I can drive my beast year round. I'm looking forward to a nice December cruise.

[Grabber]

[Torch40]

I would do number 1 and 2 myself. The less your car sees a dealer the better. Or you can add a 2a. Clean and detail frame after dealer oiler change.

[2sharpie]

What kind of battery tender are you guys using?? I was thinking of getting the one tht came with the Ford GT since I can get it at cost.

[GOTVENOMGT500]

Hey 2Shaprie ~ I've had good luck with the Battery Tender Jr. by Deltran BatteryTender.com. I originally bought it to maintain the battery on my old motorcycle, as many of you know that ride, motorcycle batteries are notorious for going dead. After having good luck with the bike I started to use it on my 97 during the winter and have had the same battery for 5-6 years now. You can decid which model works best for you, they even have a unit that has leads to charge up to 10 batteries simultaneously (Jay Leno). What I like about the Batt. Tender Jr. is how small it is, fits in my tool box, easy to set up and change from the bike to the car and it's really deal for the price.

 

I've seen the best prices on E-bay also Amazon.com has a decent price. The other day a friend told me about a Cigarette lighter lead so you don't even need to pop the hood.

 

 

 

Also you don't "need" to get a Battery Tender brand charger, I've just had good luck with mine so it's what I like and recommend. Have a friend with a ZO6 who picked a tender up from Sears he told does the job just fine, he's actually the one who mentioned using the cigarette lighter lead. Since you have a line on the same tender used on the Ford GT at cost that sound like a killer deal.

 

Anyway hope that was helpful

[Grabber]

I have been using a battery tender that I got from Griots for the last 3 years. I also use them on my motorcycle and other cars. I have the quick disconnect wired in that it comes with so it makes hook up only take a couple seconds.

 

 

[Grabber]

It's on my car now.

 

[Grabber]

My car goes in the Car Capsule (bubble) every winter and I leave the cover off and the windows down about 2'' so its ventilated properly. Some people put the cover on so the car doesn't get scratched from the zipper on the bubble. If you can get someone to help you, the bubble cover can be lifted over the car without the risk of scratching it. I enjoy going into the garage in the dead of winter and looking at my Shelby through the bubble. I detail the car before storage and when I open it up in the spring it is dust free and ready to go.

 

Alan has some good points. I have left my windows up for the last 4 winterizing seasons and not had a mold or moisture problem. The car is dry on the inside and outside and there is no moisture to let out. I guess I could crack the windows like Alan does but did not think of it. The cover does protect the finish from rolling out the thick clear plastic bubble on the car. When I do this most of the time no one is home to help me, so like I said, the cover is just a layer of extra protection.

 

Here's my bubble video.

 

[2sharpie]

Hey 2Shaprie ~ I've had good luck with the Battery Tender Jr. by Deltran BatteryTender.com. I originally bought it to maintain the battery on my old motorcycle, as many of you know that ride, motorcycle batteries are notorious for going dead. After having good luck with the bike I started to use it on my 97 during the winter and have had the same battery for 5-6 years now. You can decid which model works best for you, they even have a unit that has leads to charge up to 10 batteries simultaneously (Jay Leno). What I like about the Batt. Tender Jr. is how small it is, fits in my tool box, easy to set up and change from the bike to the car and it's really deal for the price.

 

 

Also you don't "need" to get a Battery Tender brand charger, I've just had good luck with mine so it's what I like and recommend. Have a friend with a ZO6 who picked a tender up from Sears he told does the job just fine, he's actually the one who mentioned using the cigarette lighter lead. Since you have a line on the same tender used on the Ford GT at cost that sound like a killer deal.

 

Anyway hope that was helpful

 

 

Thanks a bunch.........that was helpful. I'm waiting to hear about the price for the GT charger, but I like the additional indicators the Battery Tender Jr has (and Amazon has it for $23!!) There is a kit put together with a mount and 25' cord for the GT that I am waiting to hear if it'll work for our cars (but not sure if its worth the $60.

 

http://www.cooltechllc.com/ford/gt_chargeport_gt_float_charger_kit.htm

 

And thanks GRABBER............I'm checking out the Griots charger and think that may be the way to go. Does it come with a long enough cord??

[William Rodgers]

Grabber, what size is your Capsule?? My garage is not deep, I only have like 6 inches on either end because of my work-bench, do you think this would work?

[HARALD KELLEY]

I am sure Grabber will chime in but I recall him posting the capsule was 16 feet.

[F150 Duke]

Hey Fellas,

 

Thank you everyone for opining! I can confirm through reading just about all of Grabber's winterization threads that it's the 16 foot CC16 model. I purchased mine from http://www.autotoystore.com/carcapsule.html which is a Minnesota store offering free shipping. They are the same price as Grabbers link where he bought his and it's the same product. PDK makes it and all these companies resell it. They also price matched another vendor that I found online selling them for $310 plus $20 shipping, for a total of $330. I should have it by the end of this week.

 

In brutal honesty and some embarrassment, I have not yet changed my oil on any vehicle myself. Ive just always had what I considered daily drivers and just paid for a quick lube oil change. Obviously that is not the case now, but now Im nervous about changing the oil wrong and damaging the engine. The current plan is to have the SVT tech at my dealership change the oil and oil filter. Though its going to be pricy at $10 per quart for what I was told was 7 quarts. Then $20 in labor brings it to a total of just under $100.

 

Now I also need to read up on the stock air filter and its replacement schedule. It looks to be a non-oil paper element. But the replacement cost for an OEM one is roughly $130 per the parts manager at my dealer. Seems like a bit much to do every 5,000 miles which I do on my other cars; this one will probably be every 3,000 miles.

 

I'm also going to put the windows down halfway on the car and then put the car cover on. This way I can ensure its vented but the cover will protect the paint against the bubble and its zipper during installation.

 

Lastly, I'm looking at Griots for a battery tender. They don't have the one Grabber uses anymore but I'm considering this

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/battery+care/battery+manager+iv.do

 

or

 

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/battery+care/3-in-1+battery+charger+maintainer+tester.do

[Grabber]

Hey Fellas,

 

Thank you everyone for opining! I can confirm through reading just about all of Grabber's winterization threads that it's the 16 foot CC16 model. I purchased mine from http://www.autotoyst...carcapsule.html which is a Minnesota store offering free shipping. They are the same price as Grabbers link where he bought his and it's the same product. PDK makes it and all these companies resell it. They also price matched another vendor that I found online selling them for $310 plus $20 shipping, for a total of $330. I should have it by the end of this week.

 

In brutal honesty and some embarrassment, I have not yet changed my oil on any vehicle myself. I’ve just always had what I considered daily drivers and just paid for a quick lube oil change. Obviously that is not the case now, but now I’m nervous about changing the oil wrong and damaging the engine. The current plan is to have the SVT tech at my dealership change the oil and oil filter. Though it’s going to be pricy at $10 per quart for what I was told was 7 quarts. Then $20 in labor brings it to a total of just under $100.

 

Now I also need to read up on the stock air filter and its replacement schedule. It looks to be a non-oil paper element. But the replacement cost for an OEM one is roughly $130 per the parts manager at my dealer. Seems like a bit much to do every 5,000 miles which I do on my other cars; this one will probably be every 3,000 miles.

 

I'm also going to put the windows down halfway on the car and then put the car cover on. This way I can ensure its vented but the cover will protect the paint against the bubble and it’s zipper during installation.

 

Lastly, I'm looking at Griots for a battery tender. They don't have the one Grabber uses anymore but I'm considering this

http://www.griotsgar...y+manager+iv.do

 

or

 

http://www.griotsgar...ainer+tester.do

 

 

Thanks for confirming the size. My internet time is very limited these days while I'm working 1650 miles from home and living in a extended stay these days. Working some long hours and I sleep the rest of the time. That Griots tender you posted up is there new and inproved one. They make good stuff. It analizes the battery and just gives it what it needs. Rob

 

PS

Make sure they only put in 6-1/2 quarts and have them give you the extra 1/2 QT so you can verify they put the right amount in and used the right stuff. If you need to put a tad bit more in next summer, you will have some too!!

[F150 Duke]

Thanks for confirming the size. My internet time is very limited these days while I'm working 1650 miles from home and living in a extended stay these days. Working some long hours and I sleep the rest of the time. That Griots tender you posted up is there new and inproved one. They make good stuff. It analizes the battery and just gives it what it needs. Rob

 

PS

Make sure they only put in 6-1/2 quarts and have them give you the extra 1/2 QT so you can verify they put the right amount in and used the right stuff. If you need to put a tad bit more in next summer, you will have some too!!

 

 

Hey Rob! Sorry again to hear about the difficult work schedule, I know that has to be very taxing.

 

That is the approach I’ll take on the oil. However, in the short term I’m going to do some digging and learn about doing oil changes myself and see if I cannot get to the point where I feel comfortable about doing it myself. I had to buy those drive up lifts anyhow for the car to take off the front splitter to attach the hideaway license plate bracket.

[Grabber]

Hey Rob! Sorry again to hear about the difficult work schedule, I know that has to be very taxing.

 

That is the approach I'll take on the oil. However, in the short term I'm going to do some digging and learn about doing oil changes myself and see if I cannot get to the point where I feel comfortable about doing it myself. I had to buy those drive up lifts anyhow for the car to take off the front splitter to attach the hideaway license plate bracket.

 

 

When you get ready to do your oil change, pm me your number and I can talk you thru it. I have done all my changes and I know the little tricks that make it easy.

 

Rob

[F150 Duke]

When you get ready to do your oil change, pm me your number and I can talk you thru it. I have done all my changes and I know the little tricks that make it easy.

 

Rob

 

 

Awesome, thanks Rob! I'll probably be doing it in the latter part of Oct.

 

Jason

[glroy]

This will be my first winter living in a place where I can drive my beast year round. I'm looking forward to a nice December cruise.

 

 

be careful with that

cold wet roads = no traction

cold = more HP

 

mine is not much of a water snake it likes dry roads and warm weather

[11ShelbyGT500]

How necessary is this capsule if the car is in a heated garage for the winter? Reading the posts people suggest to cover the car. They also suggest to open the windows of the car so the air can circulate. But, how does the air circulate with the car cover on?

[2010KB]

Or, Yawl could just move to the Great State of Texas and never have to make those decisions. We drive year round down here.

[John Allen]

How necessary is this capsule if the car is in a heated garage for the winter? Reading the posts people suggest to cover the car. They also suggest to open the windows of the car so the air can circulate. But, how does the air circulate with the car cover on?

 

 

 

I don't understand why you would cover the car if in a capsule?? The whole idea of the capsule is to protect/preserve the car and at the same time show it off.

[Ezkill]

I'll add my question to here instead of starting a new topic because it's highly related.

 

My Shelby is new and the driving season has been so "craptastic" that it will get wintered with around 1000 miles or so on the clock. Endless rain and the sidewalks in front of my house/my road torn up for weeks.. I'm really starting to hate new houses.

 

Would it in this case be prudent to do an oil change before it gets parked or would it better to do an oil change in the spring? It's not really a cost thing I'm just not sure if there is any benefit to changing the oil for winter storage with such a low mile vehicle.

[09vistablue]

Hey Fellas,

 

Thank you everyone for opining! I can confirm through reading just about all of Grabber's winterization threads that it's the 16 foot CC16 model. I purchased mine from http://www.autotoystore.com/carcapsule.html which is a Minnesota store offering free shipping. They are the same price as Grabbers link where he bought his and it's the same product. PDK makes it and all these companies resell it. They also price matched another vendor that I found online selling them for $310 plus $20 shipping, for a total of $330. I should have it by the end of this week.

 

In brutal honesty and some embarrassment, I have not yet changed my oil on any vehicle myself. I’ve just always had what I considered daily drivers and just paid for a quick lube oil change. Obviously that is not the case now, but now I’m nervous about changing the oil wrong and damaging the engine. The current plan is to have the SVT tech at my dealership change the oil and oil filter. Though it’s going to be pricy at $10 per quart for what I was told was 7 quarts. Then $20 in labor brings it to a total of just under $100.

 

Now I also need to read up on the stock air filter and its replacement schedule. It looks to be a non-oil paper element. But the replacement cost for an OEM one is roughly $130 per the parts manager at my dealer. Seems like a bit much to do every 5,000 miles which I do on my other cars; this one will probably be every 3,000 miles.

 

I'm also going to put the windows down halfway on the car and then put the car cover on. This way I can ensure its vented but the cover will protect the paint against the bubble and it’s zipper during installation.

 

Lastly, I'm looking at Griots for a battery tender. They don't have the one Grabber uses anymore but I'm considering this

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/battery+care/battery+manager+iv.do

 

or

 

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/battery+care/3-in-1+battery+charger+maintainer+tester.do

 

[09vistablue]

Just confirming you guys are using the 16 foot model, the guy at car capsule told me to go with the 18 how have you guys found the fit with the 16 foot model ???

[BDrool]

I'll add my question to here instead of starting a new topic because it's highly related.

 

My Shelby is new and the driving season has been so "craptastic" that it will get wintered with around 1000 miles or so on the clock. Endless rain and the sidewalks in front of my house/my road torn up for weeks.. I'm really starting to hate new houses.

 

Would it in this case be prudent to do an oil change before it gets parked or would it better to do an oil change in the spring? It's not really a cost thing I'm just not sure if there is any benefit to changing the oil for winter storage with such a low mile vehicle.

 

 

That's the mileage I did my first oil change and I was still driving it. To me the first is the most important to get all the manufacturing stuff out of the motor, I'm fairly OCD when it comes to oil, however.

[SVT NAJA]

That's the mileage I did my first oil change and I was still driving it. To me the first is the most important to get all the manufacturing stuff out of the motor, I'm fairly OCD when it comes to oil, however.

 

 

+1 on changing the oil / filter at 1k miles. If your garage temperature is fairly stable during the winter, condensation shouldn't be a problem. Probably a good idea to connect a battery tender though.

[briankmet@shaw.ca]

I'm not interested in a car bubble but I would like to know the optimal winter storage procedure for my '11 GT500. It will go into a heated garage where I wash my other vehicles in the dead cold of a Canadian winter. The humidity level climbs quite a bit after I wash other cars in the same heated garage. I was thinking of a dehumidifier but haven't found one. Any advice on winter storage and/or a dehumidifier is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[71sixpack]

All the moisture could cause some light rust issues on the undercarriage. If I were going to be storing my car in my heated garage where the wife parks I would use the capsule to protect it from all the road salt and moisture that comes in with her car over the winter. I always crack my windows about 3in and put dryer sheets in the interior, trunk, and engine bay in the rare event we get a mouse. I crack the windows so the weatherstripping isn't sitting compressed for 6mos over the winter. Probably not needed but we all have our quirks.

 

Joe