ACCLERCR Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Guys, I have an insulated garage for my '08 GT-500...I don't use the car cover anymore as it seems like overkill (as my garage is fully insulated), but I was thinking of adding a Dehumidifier to keep the moisture in check. I also do have an area where some black mold is forming, and I've been using Simply Green to spray the painted sheet rock area from time to time....do you guys know any other way to prevent the black mold from coming back. Okay, back on the Dehumidifier area....do any of you use one? If so, what capacitiy do you have and what % do you keep it on? I'm thinking of a 50-pint version and keeping the humidity % setting to around 40%. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zporta Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 i was always told to spray it with bleach... make sure the area has good ventilation when doing this... i have heard that vinegar works as well But i would recommend to tear down the drywall that has mold and replace it... B/c more then likely there is mold behind it as well and you are only killing the mold on the exterior, hence the reason it comes back. So tear it down spray the surrounding areas w/ bleach or vinegar and start over... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubbsFaris Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Dude, I think you are way overthinking here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody81 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Guys, I have an insulated garage for my '08 GT-500...I don't use the car cover anymore as it seems like overkill (as my garage is fully insulated), but I was thinking of adding a Dehumidifier to keep the moisture in check. I also do have an area where some black mold is forming, and I've been using Simply Green to spray the painted sheet rock area from time to time....do you guys know any other way to prevent the black mold from coming back. Okay, back on the Dehumidifier area....do any of you use one? If so, what capacitiy do you have and what % do you keep it on? I'm thinking of a 50-pint version and keeping the humidity % setting to around 40%. Thanks in advance! Yes, you need a dehumidifier. I have a 50 pt and I keep it on 50%. You have a mold problem so you need to set the dehumidifier at the lowest setting, probably 30% to help dry things up for a few months. Mold started growing in my shed after I insulated it and I used bleach to kill it and put in a dehumidifier to prevent anymore. I also have a temperature and humidity gauge to monitor things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeet Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 At one time I had a problem with black mold spots on the white bathroom ceiling. When I did the bathroom over I found an additive for the paint that prevents the growth of mold. That was about 10 years ago and so far no more mold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Use bleach to kill the mold, use Killz to cover it up. Have you considered adding an A/C unit to your garage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpierson Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 i was always told to spray it with bleach... make sure the area has good ventilation when doing this... i have heard that vinegar works as well But i would recommend to tear down the drywall that has mold and replace it... B/c more then likely there is mold behind it as well and you are only killing the mold on the exterior, hence the reason it comes back. So tear it down spray the surrounding areas w/ bleach or vinegar and start over... +1 I'm in Insurance claims. This is the only way to really get rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACCLERCR Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Thank guys for your replies so far! An A/C unit...interesting....I can probably add one to one of the double-hung windows, but then the back of the unit would stick out onto the walk area....do they make a slimline-type unit that does not have that much depth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pucky Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 HI TRUST ME I HAD SO MUCH HUMIDITY IN MY NEW GARAGE WATER WAS FORMING ON THE FLOOR UNDER MY CAR AND WHEN I TOOK THE CAR OUTSIDE I WOULD TURN WET AND THE WINDOWS WOULD HAZE INSTANTLY . I ADDED A DEHUMIFIER AND THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED . I LEAVE MINE ON FULLY AND CAN ALMOST EMPTY IT ONCE A DAY . GOOD LUCK PAUL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Thank guys for your replies so far! An A/C unit...interesting....I can probably add one to one of the double-hung windows, but then the back of the unit would stick out onto the walk area....do they make a slimline-type unit that does not have that much depth? They make units called mini-splits that the inside unit hangs on the wall like a flat screen tv, and the outside unit sets outside. However, you would be well better off just having a complete system installed, as they are not very reliable. Make sure you get one with a variable speed blower motor so that you can control the humidity better. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewheelman Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Mold grows because it has moisture, heat and no circulation. To remedy the problem remove one of the elements (or add air circulation). But likely you're going to have to get into that wall to fully stop it. Dehumidifier would work well. I really want a split a/c for my garage--just to make it tolerable for projects in the summer, heck the car can fend for itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiph Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 With the 95+% humidity here from about May through Sept, I don't want to even think about what having dehumidifiers run full time would cost. Then of course, they do generate heat too. But...I did find out that the only way I can get my Zaino to dry, even with the Z-2 accellerator, was to fire up two pretty beefy dehumidifiers, and leave the door to the house with the A/C running on, with a fan in the door to bring the humidity in the garrage WAY down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACCLERCR Posted August 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 Hello all! Just an update...I cleaned the one section where I had the black mold...cleaned it with diluted clorox...worked perfect. I also purchased a 50-pint dehumidifier....I started running it at Noon today...it's on Continuous mode and High speed (fan). I will check it tonight....once I get things stabilized I will set the unit to maintain 40% to 45% humidity. I will probably run it on a low fan setting. I live in the Northeast so I won't need it on throughout the Fall & Winter months. Any other comments, please shoot away! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukenrock Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I run a standalone April Air dehumidifier and maintain 48%. The building is 32x72x14' high. It does a great job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I run a/c regularly in the summer, so humidity isn't a huge deal during warm months.... but oddly, i get TONS of condensation under the cars during the wintertime.... anybody know what would cure this? it can't be good to have the moisture literally dripping off the bottom like it does... this last winter i didn't have a reason to get under any of them, but two years ago I had a '40 buick I was putting airride on, and I'm assuming the other cars are getting as wet as that one was underneath.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I occasionally run a torpedo heater and sometimes a wood burning furnace during the winter IF I have projects going on.... but as an accountant, not much time to play Jan-Apr.... so most of the time the garage is cold if that matters.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubbsFaris Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Wait, you guys are serious? I guess my lack of living in other places has me ignorant on this...your garages have humidity problems? Ive never had moisture condensation IN the garage, and I guess our humidity levels are very low unless it is actually raining here, which is like 2% of the time. I did live in Houston for many years, and I dont recall having humidity problems inside, but I guess I do remember the floor getting a little sweaty from time to time. Wow, glad I dont have that issue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 It occured to me, and not sure if this is a relevant issue, but when I paint (any time of year), I keep the floor extremely wet.... do any of you think that the concrete could be absorbing that moisture and that could be causing the condensation? I don't really know if that's even possible.... but thought i'd add it to the thread anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I also do have an area where some black mold is forming, and I've been using Simply Green to spray the painted sheet rock area from time to time....do you guys know any other way to prevent the black mold from coming back. Like someone else already said, Bleach. Straight, 100% bleach. Put some in a old spray bottle and give it an occasional spray. With sheetrock, it will get "into" the gypsum so it might try to come back a couple of times before you finally kill it. And DO NOT get it on your Levi's (or any other cotton material). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 An A/C unit...interesting....I can probably add one to one of the double-hung windows, What most people do not realize is that a Air Condidtioner is a air *CONDITIONER*....that is, it is not a "air COOLER", it conditions the air (in your car too). Want your windshield to defrost faster? Turn the AC on when you have the heater system set on defrost, or just put the AC to on and put the mode switch to WS vents. Not only does it cool the air but it removes odors and MOISTURE from the air. It dries the air out. That's why when you park your car after using the AC you get a puddle of fresh water under it. The Evaporator freezes the moisture in the air then when you shut your car down, the ice melts and (hopefully) drains out of the heater box drain. The same thing happens in your house with your home AC. It "dehumidifies" your interior air. Way up here in the Rockies we have the *opposite* problem in the winter....our ambient air gets arid (dry). We actually have humidifiers added to our HVAC systems to ADD moisture into the air via the HVAC system. Wood furnature cracks from drying out, you get zapped everytime you touch a grounded part of the house (the light switch screws, for instance) because you build up so much static electricity, etc. etc. etc. A free standing AC unit in your garage would be perfect for a de-humidifier. You can get portable de-humidifiers and they work WELL...but they also put off a tremendous amount of heat. An AC unit will do just the opposite so you can work on your car in the humid summers. 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other..... Phill (ASE and GM Air Conditioning R&R Certified) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 we run humidifiers inside during winter as well.... so what would cause the condensation on the undercarraige of my cars? I would guess it's not really humidity issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACCLERCR Posted August 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Thanks again all for the last several posts....I dumped out about a bucket and half so far....I will check this time tomorrow to see how much. It is so comfortable in there now. My garage is only 25' X 20" so the 50-pint dehumidifier is doing it's thing. If anyone can send me any links to look at potential A/C units, I would greatly appreciate it. I have 2 double-hung windows plus a side door on one side of my garage...the back and other side has no windows/doors. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody81 Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 I run a/c regularly in the summer, so humidity isn't a huge deal during warm months.... but oddly, i get TONS of condensation under the cars during the wintertime.... anybody know what would cure this? it can't be good to have the moisture literally dripping off the bottom like it does... this last winter i didn't have a reason to get under any of them, but two years ago I had a '40 buick I was putting airride on, and I'm assuming the other cars are getting as wet as that one was underneath.... Concrete is like a brick or cinder block, it will not absorb water. Your problem is the concrete is getting too cold. You have to keep your building at least at 45 degrees all winter. The problem is when it warms up in the spring and the concrete is so cold that it creates a humidity issue. Fire up the wood burner and it should dry everything up. I keep my 35 x 65 shed and 24 x 24 garage at 50 degrees and never have a problem. When the temp. in your building is naturally lower than the air outside it creates very high humidity. When the air temp inside the garage is much higher than the air outside, the humidity will be very low. Keeping the heat on will solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zporta Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 brick and cinder block do absorb water... that is why you have to parge coat and tar block foundations or else water will soak right thought them over time, and if you mix mortar too wet you can throw a few brick on top to suck some of the water out... No i agree with you that concrete will not absorb water but the others will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 If anyone can send me any links to look at potential A/C units, I would greatly appreciate it. I have 2 double-hung windows plus a side door on one side of my garage...the back and other side has no windows/doors. Use a non-load bearing wall and mount the AC unit in it. A header is easy to build with multi layers of 2 by's. Find a AC unit that fits between 32 inch centers, cut one stud at the top height you want your AC unit at, put 3 2x4's on edge across the cut and nail the first/top on into the cut-off stud, then nail the next two to it in succession. one upright on either end and hand your unit from the header (you'll also need to make a sill below the AC unit). If you don't have drywall already installed, hard wiring the AC unit will be a breeze (no pun intended). If not, you'll need to mount it near an existing ac wall socket. Oh, and get a 110 unit too. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Thanks again all for the last several posts....I dumped out about a bucket and half so far.... And that right there is the big advantage to a permanantly mounted AC unit. No dumping buckets, it drains itself outside! Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmorritt Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 Guys, I have an insulated garage for my '08 GT-500...I don't use the car cover anymore as it seems like overkill (as my garage is fully insulated), but I was thinking of adding a Dehumidifier to keep the moisture in check. I also do have an area where some black mold is forming, and I've been using Simply Green to spray the painted sheet rock area from time to time....do you guys know any other way to prevent the black mold from coming back. Okay, back on the Dehumidifier area....do any of you use one? If so, what capacitiy do you have and what % do you keep it on? I'm thinking of a 50-pint version and keeping the humidity % setting to around 40%. Thanks in advance! This is hysterical. Dehumidifier for your car. Its a car not a Cuban cigar. Not to poke fun, but sometimes you guys crack me up. thanks for the chuckle.. Oh, it s for your garage! Phew-thought your were really losing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomshep Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 I run a/c regularly in the summer, so humidity isn't a huge deal during warm months.... but oddly, i get TONS of condensation under the cars during the wintertime.... anybody know what would cure this? it can't be good to have the moisture literally dripping off the bottom like it does... this last winter i didn't have a reason to get under any of them, but two years ago I had a '40 buick I was putting airride on, and I'm assuming the other cars are getting as wet as that one was underneath.... I sure wouldn't want that much moisture under my car. What about getting a big plastic drop cloth for painting from Home Depot and parking your car on top of it for the winter when not in use? That would be a barrier between the moisture and your undercarriage. I am in S. Texas. I know one of the areas contractors will cut corners here is NOT put plastic UNDER the concrete when they poor a garage. They will put it under the main structure, but not the garage. So, the garage is able to pass moisture from the earth right into the garage. Makes for a real PITA. Maybe that is why some of you are having this problem? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake Doc Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 And that right there is the big advantage to a permanantly mounted AC unit. No dumping buckets, it drains itself outside! Phill I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd comment anyway FWIW. I had a new central heat/air sys installed a few years ago and the guy put in a small pump w/tank to catch condensation and pump it to the outside. My Kenmore 50 pt dehumidifier has a connection for a garden hose to replace the holding tank so I ran a hose to the a/c condensation pump so no longer have to empty the dehumidifier. I've seen those little pumps at Home Depot but don't recall what they are called. The discharge line for the pump is a small plastic line 1/4 or 3/8 diameter. Works great. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 I had a new central heat/air sys installed a few years ago and the guy put in a small pump w/tank to catch condensation and pump it to the outside. My Kenmore 50 pt dehumidifier has a connection for a garden hose to replace the holding tank so I ran a hose to the a/c condensation pump so no longer have to empty the dehumidifier. I've seen those little pumps at Home Depot but don't recall what they are called. The discharge line for the pump is a small plastic line 1/4 or 3/8 diameter. Works great. Wow, I guess I'm lucky. I bought a new home in Co. Springs, CO. It was one of two model homes for the last phase of the 536 home subdivision I live in. It has Central Air and AC with a humidifier attached. To feed the humidifier, they just ran a small copper line from the water heater with a valve on it so I can turn it off during the summer. I think it comes off the "hot" side of the water heater (the water heater and HVAC sytsem are both in a "utility closet" in the basement). Then the excess water is drained via a clear (about 3/8") plastic hose into a drain on the floor of the utility closet. It's there in case the water heater develops a leak, so water won't fill the basement. The AC evaporator also has a solid tube drain (PVC) that is permanantly attached to the drain. But there are no hoses from the outside to the inside to feed the humidifier and no hoses from the inside to the outside to drain the AC and Humidifier..... I suppose it helps that the house is a modern house (only a couple years old now) and was built with all of the creature comforts included as opposed to added on later. Is your AC evaporator (the part that cools the air) near a drain or is your humidifier near a water heater or other water source? The tube to my humidifier was the kind that screws a "tap" into a copper line and punches its own hole in it so it'd be real easy for you to tap into your water heater too (and save you a garden hose from the outside!). Getting WAY off topic, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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