ShelbyLt Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 When I last went to the drag strip I lost about .2 seconds with every pass. Starting at 12.69 and working up to about 13.50. Ambient temp. was getting warmer all day, starting at about 85 and ending around 105 degrees. It appears to be a heat issue although the temp gauge did not go past the 'm' in normal. I would like to get other opinions about which would help more an upgraded radiator or an upgraded intercooler. Any ideas of what is the best value? Also, has anyone run a temp gauge in an intercooler. How many HP can you get before you need these upgrades? Any thoughts on any of this would also be appreciated. ShelbyLt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkGT500nCA Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Heat soak can be a problem even with stock GT500's. I upgraded my heat exchanger with the Revan/Shelby one and absolutely love it. The radiator is still on my to do list, but the H/E makes a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyLt Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Thanks for the info. Do you go to the track? Has it helped keep consistent times all by itself? ShelbyLt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustanggt500 Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 Thanks for the info. Do you go to the track? Has it helped keep consistent times all by itself? ShelbyLt The HE will definitely keep your times more consistent. After an hour of driving on the freeway at 70 on an 80 degree day last weekend, my supercharger temp was holding consistent at 91 degrees. Keep the supercharger cool first then worry about the engine temp after. Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyLt Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 The HE will definitely keep your times more consistent. After an hour of driving on the freeway at 70 on an 80 degree day last weekend, my supercharger temp was holding consistent at 91 degrees. Keep the supercharger cool first then worry about the engine temp after. Nic That sounds like a plan. Now all I have to do is decide which one to buy and how much to spend. ShelbyLt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2kgt281 Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 I like many others will give high marks for the Revan Racing unit. Awesome piece and does the job of keeping the SC cool. I have yet to get the computer to pull timing no matter how hard I beat on it where with the stock unit, just a few minutes of flogging had the computer pulling the timing. A side benefit of the Revan unit is that my AC gets colder since the install, just proves how much air those dual fans are moving, which probably helps the radiator shed a bit of heat as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TX STIG Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Go with the HE. It should consistently keep you about 21-25 degrees above ambient. I have my gauge set to light up when it gets above 140 degrees (which is where the computer pulls timing), and it only does that after the car has been run, then turned off, and back on before the engine has cooled down. It gets A LOT hotter after the car is turned off, and the Revan unit does a great job of cooling it back down almost as soon as you start moving. The upgraded radiator is really not needed unless your running on a track. My temps stay pretty much 193-198. I have the light set to go off at 205, but I've never seen it. Right now it's over 100 degrees in TX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010 Grabber Blue Shelby Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Go with the HE. It should consistently keep you about 21-25 degrees above ambient. I have my gauge set to light up when it gets above 140 degrees (which is where the computer pulls timing), and it only does that after the car has been run, then turned off, and back on before the engine has cooled down. It gets A LOT hotter after the car is turned off, and the Revan unit does a great job of cooling it back down almost as soon as you start moving. The upgraded radiator is really not needed unless your running on a track. My temps stay pretty much 193-198. I have the light set to go off at 205, but I've never seen it. Right now it's over 100 degrees in TX. off topic, but did you have to do any mods to fit those 20X11 rear wheels on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TX STIG Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 off topic, but did you have to do any mods to fit those 20X11 rear wheels on your car? I used a dremel to remove the bump-stop bracket. Since my car is not lowered I'd have to hit a HUGE bump for the suspension to move that far. Even if it was lowered I doubt it would be an issue. I also removed the shock dust covers, but in hindsight I probably didn't need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2011 P8J Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Go with the HE. It should consistently keep you about 21-25 degrees above ambient. I have my gauge set to light up when it gets above 140 degrees (which is where the computer pulls timing), and it only does that after the car has been run, then turned off, and back on before the engine has cooled down. It gets A LOT hotter after the car is turned off, and the Revan unit does a great job of cooling it back down almost as soon as you start moving. The upgraded radiator is really not needed unless your running on a track. My temps stay pretty much 193-198. I have the light set to go off at 205, but I've never seen it. Right now it's over 100 degrees in TX. Forgive my igrorance, but are you talking about the stock gauge cluster, or aftermarket? I have heard that you can set the SVT light to go of at a certain RPM (like a shift light) but did not know you could set it as a warning light for other paramiters. Furthermore I did not know you could see IC temp or water/radiator temp. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TX STIG Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Forgive my igrorance, but are you talking about the stock gauge cluster, or aftermarket? I have heard that you can set the SVT light to go of at a certain RPM (like a shift light) but did not know you could set it as a warning light for other paramiters. Furthermore I did not know you could see IC temp or water/radiator temp. Thanks. Look up the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge and Roush vent pod. Makes for a nice, clean setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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