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Clutch Toast???


bpmurr
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My car is not holding the power while its in gear. If I have the car say in 4th gear at 2k, step on it, the tach will raise crazy fast. Then the car will catch, tach drops, and I smell clutch. Is this a sign that my clutch is toast or something else?

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It proves your clutch is toast..........First 2010 clutch failure I have read about..........

 

 

Wow, I don't even do burnouts or any other crazy stuff. I just have a 2.6 pulley and tune. I would surely hope the clutch could handle that power level.

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That's the general test for slippage. Slippage in higher gears at the mid and upper rpms is generally the first indication. My first question is how are you brining the power in when it slips, side stepping the clutch and full bore or easing into the accelerator? If you are bring up the rpms quickly and its already in gear and then you start to smell lining burning, its time for disc and possibly pressure plate at the minimum.

 

In the old days you used to ge tto about 30 mph, put it in the highest gear bring the rpms to about 3-5k and side step the clutch, if the rpms dropped or it bogged you were ok, I would not recommend that test on these because of the increased power and boost range, something else will break.

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If you are bring up the rpms quickly and its already in gear and then you start to smell lining burning, its time for disc and possibly pressure plate at the minimum.

 

 

That's exactly what is happening.

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Odd. Based on the symptoms listed in your post, it does seem that your clutch may not be completely cooked, but it sounds like it's on it's way to being so. But there is a slight behavorial difference with the 07-09 clutch failure and what your experiencing, that difference being when a 07-09 clutch goes out, it only grabs at very low RPM's and then immeadately starts slipping again when the slightest load is placed on the engine.

 

I'm very suprised to hear that the second generation clutch is giving you trouble, but it might not be an issue with heat buildup/dissipation problem like the 07-09's have. It's possible that your engine's rear seal might be leaking oil which has migrated onto the clutch disc, or it's possible that your CNC bearing (throw out) has gone bad (but that would usually make a howling noise and gears would grind while shifting). There may be a leak in the system that caused air to be introduced into the slave cylinder and hydraulic lines; is your fluid level correct?

 

Do you do any/much stop and go traffic driving with the car? That usually triggers the clutch failure do to heat buildup, but again the second generation clutch and flywheel design is supposed to resolve that issue. Is your 2010 and early build car? It's not likely, but maybe your car had the old design clutch installed in it.

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Odd. Based on the symptoms listed in your post, it does seem that your clutch may not be completely cooked, but it sounds like it's on it's way to being so. But there is a slight behavorial difference with the 07-09 clutch failure and what your experiencing, that difference being when a 07-09 clutch goes out, it only grabs at very low RPM's and then immeadately starts slipping again when the slightest load is placed on the engine.

 

I'm very suprised to hear that the second generation clutch is giving you trouble, but it might not be an issue with heat buildup/dissipation problem like the 07-09's have. It's possible that your engine's rear seal might be leaking oil which has migrated onto the clutch disc, or it's possible that your CNC bearing (throw out) has gone bad (but that would usually make a howling noise and gears would grind while shifting). There may be a leak in the system that caused air to be introduced into the slave cylinder and hydraulic lines; is your fluid level correct?

 

Do you do any/much stop and go traffic driving with the car? That usually triggers the clutch failure do to heat buildup, but again the second generation clutch and flywheel design is supposed to resolve that issue. Is your 2010 and early build car? It's not likely, but maybe your car had the old design clutch installed in it.

 

 

The car was built in June of 09. I do a lot of stop and go driving at times. The car has about 9,600 miles on it at the moment.

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The car was built in June of 09. I do a lot of stop and go driving at times. The car has about 9,600 miles on it at the moment.

 

 

Well that would be an early build car, so it's possible that your car has the first generation clutch in it. Stop and go driving DEFINATELY is the main trigger for the heat buildup failure. I'm sorry to confrim what you already know, but it's time to take the car in for repair.

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Well that would be an early build car, so it's possible that your car has the first generation clutch in it. Stop and go driving DEFINATELY is the main trigger for the heat buildup failure. I'm sorry to confrim what you already know, but it's time to take the car in for repair.

 

 

I was told on another forum the clutch might just be glazed. That I should drive the car around normally and it might clear up.

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I was told on another forum the clutch might just be glazed. That I should drive the car around normally and it might clear up.

 

 

Why wait? Just take it to your dealer and have the tech ride with you while you show them "proof". There should be no hesitation on their part for a complete replacement clutch,flywheel, etc...

 

Good Luck!

Andy

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I was told on another forum the clutch might just be glazed. That I should drive the car around normally and it might clear up.

 

 

I suggest you drive close to the service dealer of your choice to an open safe area without servailance

and give your clutch the "PASS OR FAIL" test...........Proving to yourself that it has failed you would now

be close to your service dealer and not have to shell out for a tow.....................

 

Ford should be all over this one being a 2010 clutch failure.........

Edited by DDT
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Since ford had some much issues with the first gen clutches there may be hope for warranty but most marques say no warranty for any clutch parts "its a wear item" to the dealer. The only plausible past performance issue is the early warping problems which I am pleasantly surprised that ford didnt hang us out to dry with. I have 12k on my 2010 and do a stint or 2 of stop and go with traffic on 270 South. My build date is 10/09 (if i am looking at the right stick, driver door) hoep I have the 2nd gen clutch.

Edited by dbrisson
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Since ford had some much issues with the first gen clutches there may be hope for warranty but most marques say no warranty for any clutch parts "its a wear item" to the dealer. The only plausible past performance issue is the early warping problems which I am pleasantly surprised that ford didnt hang us out to dry with. I have 12k on my 2010 and do a stint or 2 of stop and go with traffic on 270 South. My build date is 10/09 (if i am looking at the right stick, driver door) hoep I have the 2nd gen clutch.

 

 

A clutch should be under warranty for at least the 3 years 36k warranty. Technically all parts of the car "wear" over time.

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I was told on another forum the clutch might just be glazed. That I should drive the car around normally and it might clear up.

 

 

Well, that's possible, and I suspect that you'll find out rather quickly if it is, one way or the other, but glazing in itself is a sign of an overheated clutch which is a heat dissipation issue. The other thing is that even if it is glazed friction material, the disc certainly should not have gotten burnt at only 9,500 mile unless you inadvertantly ride your left foot on the clutch pedal while you are driving, and I doubt that you are.

 

The bottom line is that even if it is "only" a glazed clutch, I would still take it in for warranty repair.

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The car was built in June of 09. I do a lot of stop and go driving at times. The car has about 9,600 miles on it at the moment.

 

 

 

Any 2009 model year GT500 with a Build date after 8/19/08 has the New style flywheel (non slotted thicker 4100 series steel).

 

Since you have a 2010 unit....you do not have the issues that the 2007 - 2009 units had.

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The 07-09 clutch is ceramic, the 10 clutch is 35% bigger and organic. I happen to love the new 10 clutch over the 07-09 pre and post TSB...makes the car much more enjoyable to drive with no chatter. So far I have upgraded 4 10's that have had mods, one of which has 14K miles with 735RWHP and no issues. I also have 2 customers with 07-09's with the 2010 clutch and no issues, one of which drag races his car almost weekly. Hopefully you get good news from your dealer and that it was just a bad luck fluke....

 

Alex

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The 07-09 clutch is ceramic, the 10 clutch is 35% bigger and organic. I happen to love the new 10 clutch over the 07-09 pre and post TSB...makes the car much more enjoyable to drive with no chatter. So far I have upgraded 4 10's that have had mods, one of which has 14K miles with 735RWHP and no issues. I also have 2 customers with 07-09's with the 2010 clutch and no issues, one of which drag races his car almost weekly. Hopefully you get good news from your dealer and that it was just a bad luck fluke....

 

Alex

 

 

I seem to have a string of bad luck with my car. Hopefully it will be replaced under warranty and I'm back on the road soon.

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I talked to the dealer today. They said the clutch is considered a wear item and might not be under warranty. I can't believe the clutch isn't covered for at least the first 3/36.....

Edited by bpmurr
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I talked to the dealer today. They said the clutch is considered a wear item and might not be under warranty. I can't believe the clutch isn't covered for at least the first 3/36.....

 

Man I'd fight tooth and nail about that. Most wear items including tires are normally covered if less than a certain amount of miles. For example, GM will not cover brake pads and tires after 10k miles. I really don't know about Ford since this is the first new Ford that I have owned. Bottom line, with less than 10k miles it should be covered.

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Man I'd fight tooth and nail about that. Most wear items including tires are normally covered if less than a certain amount of miles. For example, GM will not cover brake pads and tires after 10k miles. I really don't know about Ford since this is the first new Ford that I have owned. Bottom line, with less than 10k miles it should be covered.

 

 

I can understand tires and brakes not being covered after a certain point. You are right though. The fact my clutch might not be covered is BS.

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I can understand tires and brakes not being covered after a certain point. You are right though. The fact my clutch might not be covered is BS.

 

 

Just fight it. The dealer is just trying to cover his ass. It IS possible for someone to smoke their clutch if they don't know how to drive, but it should be obvious when they see yours that it is a defect issue.

 

I remember talking to my Saleen dealer years ago and they told me they stopped ordering manuals because they kept having to replace the clutches after people kept smoking them because they didn't know how to drive a car with 400 HP. Dealership is always going to assume its your fault until you prove otherwise.

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They'll probably call in a regional rep. If they refuse call Ford customer service direct. They only problem you may have is they may blame your mods. If all else fails go dealer shopping.

 

 

Yeah I'd reverse that tune if you are able and throw it back on after you get a new clutch. The rest of your mods shouldn't really impact the drivetrain or warrant.

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I just got off the phone with the dealer this morning. The service manager said the clutch is all burnt up and they can't find anything mechanically wrong that caused it. They are going to call Ford and get back to me. I'm not feeling good about this...

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