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So, you changed your Shelby Suspension


Suspension Change Made  

48 members have voted

  1. 1. What kit did you install on your Shelby

  2. 2. Did you have post suspension mod changes (Additional Parts) due to changes not expected?

  3. 3. Do you regret changing your Shelby



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I am about to upgrade (I hope) my suspension on my 2008 Shelby, with the Eibach Pro kit. I may need to obtain additional parts etc.

 

My question is, considering the fact that all I'm after is a little drop on the car, and a better ride, is this mod worth it or will I live to regret it.

 

So, I am asking you all to be honest and tell it like it is.

 

My concern is I may get what I'm after here, but will I get some issues I don't want?

 

Please post your kit, or specific suspension mods, the effect of the changes, and if your satisified or if you regret making the leap.

Edited by Mustangmike57
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Just posted up.

 

I put the BMR drag pack on my car with QA1 adjustable shocks and coupe springs on my vert to drop the rear end a bit. My biggest complaint is the UCA from BMR rattles like a wagon. I will pull it out soon and throw it away.

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Might I suggest you have an idea of what you want your Shelby to do before you start your mods.

 

I'm not a road tracker, nor drag racer. I drive it spiritedly on the road. And show it.

 

There were "kits" out back in 06 when I got mine, so I used the best parts available at the time. Most didn't even have springs for the convertible at all.

 

I installed the Steeda "vert" springs, along with BMR LCAs and adj Panhard Bar. The next week after a test drive to make sure everything worked good, I mounted a set of Shelby Razors with 20" Nitto INVOs and a set of hubcentric rings.

 

My car now takes turns at 70 that with the old setup I could only take at 55, with no problems at all. No wheel hop and a great stance.

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I had bad luck with the BMR lca and upper, replace them with steeda parts, but I did use the BMR panrod bar so far that is staying together, also used the steeda lowering springs. Car handles great on track.

Edited by Hans
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Griggs GR40RT

 

Noisy as hell, but it is a road race car with no windows or interior anyways.

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I had bad luck with the BMR lca and upper, replace them with steeda parts, but I did use the BMR panrod bar so far that is staying together, also used the steeda lowering springs. Car handles great on track.

 

 

How are the steeda UCA & LCA working as far as nvh Hans?

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How are the steeda UCA & LCA working as far as nvh Hans?

 

 

Was at Sebring raceway last month and pushed the car hard in the corners and straights to red line. It was hot out also, all my mods held the car together and had no issues. The steeda parts do make a bit of noise from time to time Clicking sound, I think it is the upper adjustable link. I like the way those parts help keep the power to the rear wheels and it does not try to come around on you when you get on it. :shift: Hope this is a answer to your question.

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I purchased the KR springs/struts/shocks for my GT500 and couldn't be happier. It dropped the car appx 2" overall. I bought the parts new off of eBay for a total of $378 shipped to my door. A buddy and I did the swap in my garage in a couple of hours. We did go to a friends shop and use his spring compressor which made the job a breeze. While doing the job I was appauled by the rust on the differential housing and associated parts. I took the extra time to clean that up and repaint it which made a big difference in apprearance.

 

I've lowered some previous Mustangs and was very unhappy with the ride afterwards. The last Cobra I used HR racing springs which gave the car a great look but it would remove dental work going over bumps. This KR setup is just the ticket. The ride is very similar to stock for normal driving but it really improved the cornering ability and gave, in my opinion, a great look too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I installed the full Griggs ST (as in "Street" Toy) setup: front SLA, rear torque arm, etc. As far as I'm concerned it pretty much destroyed the streetability of the car due to the frickin' noise from the front control arms. Is there anybody with the Griggs SLA frontend that doesn't have almost constant metal to metal rattling over any surface that isn't billiard table smooth? The compliance of the suspension is quite good and the handling is great, but the noise is torture. Unfortunately these issues don't come to light when you're hurtling around Infineon Raceway in the passenger seat during a demo ride.

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A cheap mod that I feel is a must on a lowered car are lower control arm relocation brackets.

 

One you drop the car x inch(s), you loose that much wheel travel. The LCA relocation brackets restore that wheel travel and give you the correct LCA angle and geometry. Best $125 I spent.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am about to upgrade (I hope) my suspension on my 2008 Shelby, with the Eibach Pro kit. I may need to obtain additional parts etc.

 

My question is, considering the fact that all I'm after is a little drop on the car, and a better ride, is this mod worth it or will I live to regret it.

 

So, I am asking you all to be honest and tell it like it is.

 

My concern is I may get what I'm after here, but will I get some issues I don't want?

 

Please post your kit, or specific suspension mods, the effect of the changes, and if your satisified or if you regret making the leap.

 

 

Installed the steeda upper control control arm with upgraded control mount. the sperical rod end made too much noise I replaced is soon after. Would never go with spherical rod ends again!!!!

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I am about to upgrade (I hope) my suspension on my 2008 Shelby, with the Eibach Pro kit. I may need to obtain additional parts etc.

 

My question is, considering the fact that all I'm after is a little drop on the car, and a better ride, is this mod worth it or will I live to regret it.

 

So, I am asking you all to be honest and tell it like it is.

 

My concern is I may get what I'm after here, but will I get some issues I don't want?

 

Please post your kit, or specific suspension mods, the effect of the changes, and if your satisified or if you regret making the leap.

 

 

Suspension-wise, I have the following:

 

FRPP suspension pack (springs, shocks, sway bars, strut tower brace)

BMR LCAs (spherical/poly ends)

LCA relocation brackets

Griggs torque arm

Griggs Watts link (on order)

Steeda camber plates

Steeda bump steer kit (not yet installed)

Steeda front lower balljoints (not yet installed)

 

The FRPP kit made a definite improvement in handling but resulted in some additional noise in the rear.

 

The BMR LCAs & brackets made things feel more stable under acceleration out back, but didn't seem to result in any additional impact harshness or noise.

 

The Girggs torque arm has completely eliminated any trace of wheel hop but has also introduced a background "whirring"/bearing noise that I hope to eliminate or reduce with some Dynamat.

 

The Steeda camber plates do what their supposed to with no noise or other issues.

 

Everything else is TBD.

 

If I had to do it over again, I would have gone with the KW Variant 3 coil overs and H&R sway bars (F: 36 mm, R: 26 mm) instead of the FRPP kit. This would have allowed adjustment of the ride height, corner weights, and independent adjustment of rebound and compression damping. The company has a great reputation, the coilovers are made from stainless steel, and they look cool ;-)

 

The other mod I've made that has had a significant effect on handling is adding a set of Michelin PS2s (F: 285/35-20, R: 335/25-20) and wider wheels (F: 20x9.875, R: 20x11.5). This combination is slightly heavier than stock and there is a slight feeling of increased inertia in transient response but corning and straight line traction have improved noticably. Impact harshness over small bumps is reduced (vs, the stock Goodyears), but harshness over large bumbs (like speed bumps) is definitely greater.

 

All things consider, I'm happy with the changes I've made, but will probably upgrade to the KWs and H&R bars. I'm also looking forward to installing the Griggs Watts link,

Edited by marsh2o
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A cheap mod that I feel is a must on a lowered car are lower control arm relocation brackets.

 

One you drop the car x inch(s), you loose that much wheel travel. The LCA relocation brackets restore that wheel travel and give you the correct LCA angle and geometry. Best $125 I spent.

 

 

+1

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