bigger rear tires

[pucky]

HI LEE

I GOT THE 335-30-20 . I BELIEVE YOU GOT THE SAME ??? MY CAR IS BEING SUPER SNAKED NOW SHOULD HAVE IT BACK IN ABOUT TWO WEEKS CANT WAIT :happy feet: :happy feet:

[Joker45]

I mentioned this a few months ago, the 10" rears moved to the front. I don't think anyone has attempted this yet.

 

I'd be happy to at least regain the original 9.5 width on the front.

 

R

 

 

Is anyone running 275/35-20 up front?

[03 DSG Snake]

Is anyone running 275/35-20 up front?

 

 

I run a 275 up front on the 20x9 with Nitto 555s.

[Joker45]

I run a 275 up front on the 20x9 with Nitto 555s.

 

 

Awesome info! Any info as far as handeling differences, rubbing issues etc vs. the 255 would be appreciated. I'm planning on running the NT05's on mine.

 

Thanks!

[03 DSG Snake]

Here are a couple of mine. You need to cut the upper portion off the bracket. If you compare these to the one on your car you will see. Real easy.

 

What's the easiest way to cut the bracket and dust cover?

[03 DSG Snake]

Awesome info! Any info as far as handeling differences, rubbing issues etc vs. the 255 would be appreciated. I'm planning on running the NT05's on mine.

 

Thanks!

 

Haven't had any issues with mine. I'm on the FRPP springs. I plan to replace the Nitto555 up front with the Michelin PS2s. I like the NT05 but the 315/35/20 rear is too tall for my taste.

 

[Joker45]

Haven't had any issues with mine. I'm on the FRPP springs. I plan to replace the Nitto555 up front with the Michelin PS2s. I like the NT05 but the 315/35/20 rear is too tall for my taste.

 

 

 

Cool. I'm going with the 275's up front then. I have the Eibach but I'm sure it will be fine. I don't have wider rims yet so the 315's are out of the question anyway. I'll get there one day.

[Lee N.]

HI LEE

I GOT THE 335-30-20 . I BELIEVE YOU GOT THE SAME ??? MY CAR IS BEING SUPER SNAKED NOW SHOULD HAVE IT BACK IN ABOUT TWO WEEKS CANT WAIT :happy feet: :happy feet:

 

 

Your gonna love it!

[Lee N.]

What's the easiest way to cut the bracket and dust cover?

 

 

Grinder with a really skinny blade is the best way to cut the bracket. Make sure you get the entire side of the bracket off the frame. My wheels were so close I even had to scrap the undercoating off (its about 1/4" thick in spots. The dust boot you can cut with a box knife. Its a flimsy POS.

[frazierfreud]

i'm wondering if the nitto invo 345/25/20 would fit on al 11.75" alcoa ss, and not rub anything? it is about 26.66" tall...a little short. better traction with the invo that ps2 335/35/20? my whole deal is that i don't want to lose traction even if i accelerate hard in my car in 2nd gear. currently i accomplish this with a mt drag radial and it works great. i am considering the alcoa ss wheels and i would like a true street tire for handling/cornering. but, if i can't use my car's power, what is the point of having 700rwhp? lee n. said he was spinning at 75mph recently with his 335/35/20 ps2's. i have been strongly considering lee's setup, but i NEED my traction.

 

thoughts?

[Robert M]

i'm wondering if the nitto invo 345/25/20 would fit on al 11.75" alcoa ss, and not rub anything? it is about 26.66" tall...a little short. better traction with the invo that ps2 335/35/20? my whole deal is that i don't want to lose traction even if i accelerate hard in my car in 2nd gear. currently i accomplish this with a mt drag radial and it works great. i am considering the alcoa ss wheels and i would like a true street tire for handling/cornering. but, if i can't use my car's power, what is the point of having 700rwhp? lee n. said he was spinning at 75mph recently with his 335/35/20 ps2's. i have been strongly considering lee's setup, but i NEED my traction.

 

thoughts?

 

When comparing the manufacturers specs on the two tires listed above, I see an overall width difference of 13.5 (PS2) and 13.66 (Invo), to me that minute difference will not be noticed from a traction stand point. "If" the Invo has a superior rubber compound or tread design, then that could make a difference. I know that the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 has been highly regarded as a Great tire across the performance car spectrum and I know that the Invo is a reasonably price performance tire. My question would be fitment on a 11.75" rim in the Super Snake Alcoa application. Since Lee N. has found that the difference of .25" rim width (11.75" vs. 12") makes a difference with tire to inner wheel well contact, my guess is that the difference in 13.5" and 13.66" could also "possibly" be an issue. As for the Invo 345/25 being shorter by 1"+, could this shorter tire spin sooner under load than a taller tire?

 

Just my thoughts..............

 

 

 

 

*****Updated information..................Both of the tires compared above are rated at a 220 tread wear, so one does not appear to be softer than the other and have a "stickier" advantage.******

 

 

 

R

[frazierfreud]

When comparing the manufacturers specs on the two tires listed above, I see an overall width difference of 13.5 (PS2) and 13.66 (Invo), to me that minute difference will not be noticed from a traction stand point. "If" the Invo has a superior rubber compound or tread design, then that could make a difference. I know that the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 has been highly regarded as a Great tire across the performance car spectrum and I know that the Invo is a reasonably price performance tire. My question would be fitment on a 11.75" rim in the Super Snake Alcoa application. Since Lee N. has found that the difference of .25" rim width (11.75" vs. 12") makes a difference with tire to inner wheel well contact, my guess is that the difference in 13.5" and 13.66" could also "possibly" be an issue. As for the Invo 345/25 being shorter by 1"+, could this shorter tire spin sooner under load than a taller tire?

 

Just my thoughts..............

 

 

 

 

*****Updated information..................Both of the tires compared above are rated at a 220 tread wear, so one does not appear to be softer than the other and have a "stickier" advantage.******

 

 

 

R

 

 

very sound assessment. i'm just totally confused as to what to do. a 13.5" wide 335/20 sounds like it will still lose traction when pushed hard. nitto's nt05 335/30/19 is 26.89" tall and 13.3" wide....wonder if that would hold grip? nitto's nt05r 345/30/19 is 27.3" tall and 13.43" wide...one WIDE dr. then i'm looking at finding a 19" wheel...none i'm really crazy about, that don't require lots of polishing. anybody know of a cool 19" rim with durabright finish? lol.

[supersnake94]

Here are some things I am going to lay on the table;

 

345 rear tires

griggs suspension (GR40ST suggested)

and some weight on the back of the car. Remember that most of the weight is at the front where the engine is and hardly in the back. That's why the tail seems to come out during a burnout or something like that. If you ut some more weight at the back, 0-60 of the line will be much better.

 

 

But I understand if you don't want to make the car a bit heavier. It's just my $0.02

[03 DSG Snake]

 

 

 

Got my wheels and 335s back today, and I just looked at the bump stop bracket. Wow this looks like a lot of chopping. I'm not even sure how to start it.

[pucky]

PLEASE POST SOME PICTURES OF THE WHEELS AND MODS WHEN COMPLETE

 

 

THANKS PAUL

[Robert M]

 

 

 

Got my wheels and 335s back today, and I just looked at the bump stop bracket. Wow this looks like a lot of chopping. I'm not even sure how to start it.

 

 

 

Thank you for the clear pictures of your bump stop bracket. This confirms my thoughts. I will probably use a spot weld cutter and remove my bumpstop bracket as an assy. instead of cutting it up. That way if for some reason it needs to be re-installed it is in one piece and simple mig welding will re-attach it and a little touch up sound deadener will blend it. If there needs to be something supportive for bump stop contact on the bottom portion of the frame rail, a simple plate can be installed and removed if needed for re-installation of the bump stop bracket.

 

I see 3 -4 spot welds at the upper portion of that bracket, and there are probably 2-4, maybe even 6 just around the corner on the bottom side, Nice!!

 

There may even be a couple more spot welds just above the turn under, but they will cut out easily also, and the nice thing is, the bump stop bracket will fit right back in place (if needed).

 

If you don't mind, can you shoot a well lit picture (or pictures) of the rest of that bracket from the bottom, if you still have your car in a position to do so?

 

I may have some additional ideas, but I need to see more...........

 

Thanks.

 

R

[03 DSG Snake]

Thank you for the clear pictures of your bump stop bracket. This confirms my thoughts. I will probably use a spot weld cutter and remove my bumpstop bracket as an assy. instead of cutting it up. That way if for some reason it needs to be re-installed it is in one piece and simple mig welding will re-attach it and a little touch up sound deadener will blend it. If there needs to be something supportive for bump stop contact on the bottom portion of the frame rail, a simple plate can be installed and removed if needed for re-installation of the bump stop bracket.

 

I see 3 -4 spot welds at the upper portion of that bracket, and there are probably 2-4, maybe even 6 just around the corner on the bottom side, Nice!!

 

There may even be a couple more spot welds just above the turn under, but they will cut out easily also, and the nice thing is, the bump stop bracket will fit right back in place (if needed).

 

If you don't mind, can you shoot a well lit picture (or pictures) of the rest of that bracket from the bottom, if you still have your car in a position to do so?

 

I may have some additional ideas, but I need to see more...........

 

Thanks.

 

R

 

 

Still on jackstands, I can get another shot this evening.

 

Cutting that bracket is my Project 'O The Day. Not looking forward to it

[03 DSG Snake]

This is all new to me, I'm trying to pin it down before I dig into it.

 

Looks like a wire wheel will show the spot welds better. Hit the spot welds with a Spot Weld Cutter on a drill, then use a cutting wheel for the lower part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found this around the web:

 

 

For those of you not familiar with spot weld cutters, here's a quick tutorial. The one I used is from Blair (Eastwood sells the identical bit), it's about $18.00.

 

Step 1, below, a quick pass with a wire brush usually reveals the locations of the spot welds.

 

2. After center-punching each spot weld, the spot weld cutter is used in a drill to cut through the top layer of sheet metal. Don't cut too deep or you'll go through both layers.

 

3. This is what they look like after they're cut - the two on the left are cut, haven't done the one on the right yet.

 

4. A stiff putty knife or thin pry bar is used to separate the panels. Usually they'll pop right apart, but that depends on how accurately you punched the centers of the welds, and how much seal sealer is between the panels. Mine popped right apart. Usually you'll bend the edges of the panels a bit when separating them, but that's easily flattened back out with a hammer and dolly.

 

 

 

 

Thanks to: http://www.jeep.com/forum/f8/gaucho-cj-stepside-pickup-build-709132/index12.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Am I on the right track here? I also am going to hit the bare area with 1) Spray Undercoat and 2) Black Paint.

 

[Robert M]

This is all new to me, I'm trying to pin it down before I dig into it.

 

Looks like a wire wheel will show the spot welds better. Hit the spot welds with a Spot Weld Cutter on a drill, then use a cutting wheel for the lower part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found this around the web:

 

 

For those of you not familiar with spot weld cutters, here's a quick tutorial. The one I used is from Blair (Eastwood sells the identical bit), it's about $18.00.

 

Step 1, below, a quick pass with a wire brush usually reveals the locations of the spot welds.

 

2. After center-punching each spot weld, the spot weld cutter is used in a drill to cut through the top layer of sheet metal. Don't cut too deep or you'll go through both layers.

 

3. This is what they look like after they're cut - the two on the left are cut, haven't done the one on the right yet.

 

4. A stiff putty knife or thin pry bar is used to separate the panels. Usually they'll pop right apart, but that depends on how accurately you punched the centers of the welds, and how much seal sealer is between the panels. Mine popped right apart. Usually you'll bend the edges of the panels a bit when separating them, but that's easily flattened back out with a hammer and dolly.

 

 

 

 

Thanks to: http://www.jeep.com/forum/f8/gaucho-cj-stepside-pickup-build-709132/index12.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Am I on the right track here? I also am going to hit the bare area with 1) Spray Undercoat and 2) Black Paint.

 

 

 

 

^^^^This is what I am going to attempt. It is pretty straight forward. My plan is to remove the whole bracket and make no cuts on it, only what it takes to seperate the spot welds. Then I (if needed) am going to work on a contact plate for the bump stop. To be honest, unless the car is in a very unusual situation, is the bump stop going to hit the frame rail? <<<I don't know under what curcumstances the bump stop will hit this bracket, or the frame rail. once the bracket is completely removed?

 

R

[03 DSG Snake]

 

 

 

A Spot Weld Cutter is the proper way to go.

[COBRA SCOTTY]

 

 

 

Got my wheels and 335s back today, and I just looked at the bump stop bracket. Wow this looks like a lot of chopping. I'm not even sure how to start it.

 

 

 

Hi guys if I may chime in. 1st of all what everbody is calling a bump stop bracket is actually called the lift point bracket and is where the bodies are grabbed by the over head hoist and lowered onto the frame of the car during assembly. 2ndly the best way to remove the lift point braket is to use a plasma cutter ot die grinder with a cutting wheel at the base of where the braket starts to protrude from the inner wheel well at is base. Once cut away finnish up by grindind any matterial so the surface is smooth and then use some black undercoating spray just like the factory uses around the braket and it will blend and you will never be able to tell where the protruding part of the bracket ever was. There is absolutely no reason to be drilling at the spot welds and trying to remove the whole lift point bracket. Also if you ever wanted to put the brakets back all you have todo is weld them back and cover with factory style undercoating that they use in the rear wheel wells. So when done you will have a upside down triangled shape piece of the metal removed.

 

Scotty. Ford motor co Engineer retired / Mustang assembly Quality Control

[Robert M]

Hi guys if I may chime in. 1st of all what everbody is calling a bump stop bracket is actually called the lift point bracket and is where the bodies are grabbed by the over head hoist and lowered onto the frame of the car during assembly. 2ndly the best way to remove the lift point braket is to use a plasma cutter ot die grinder with a cutting wheel at the base of where the braket starts to protrude from the inner wheel well at is base. Once cut away finnish up by grindind any matterial so the surface is smooth and then use some black undercoating spray just like the factory uses around the braket and it will blend and you will never be able to tell where the protruding part of the bracket ever was. There is absolutely no reason to be drilling at the spot welds and trying to remove the whole lift point bracket. Also if you ever wanted to put the brakets back all you have todo is weld them back and cover with factory style undercoating that they use in the rear wheel wells. So when done you will have a upside down triangled shape piece of the metal removed.

 

Scotty. Ford motor co Engineer retired / Mustang assembly Quality Control

 

 

 

Scotty - Ok, this sounds logical, so does this bracket perform any support or double thickness in the area where the bump stop "could" make contact with the frame rail? or can this bracket, since it is an assy. line item only, be completely removed and the wheel well have a clean appearance as if it was never there to start with, with no partially removed and/or modified bracket look?

 

I do agree that if the triangle is the only area that needs to be clearanced, the removal of the triangle could be the "clean look" alternative.

 

I was under the assumption, after reading these wider tire threads, that this bracket served a specific purpose now, after the assy. line, I didn't even think of this being a hanger during production of the car.

 

R

[Lee N.]

i'm wondering if the nitto invo 345/25/20 would fit on al 11.75" alcoa ss, and not rub anything? it is about 26.66" tall...a little short. better traction with the invo that ps2 335/35/20? my whole deal is that i don't want to lose traction even if i accelerate hard in my car in 2nd gear. currently i accomplish this with a mt drag radial and it works great. i am considering the alcoa ss wheels and i would like a true street tire for handling/cornering. but, if i can't use my car's power, what is the point of having 700rwhp? lee n. said he was spinning at 75mph recently with his 335/35/20 ps2's. i have been strongly considering lee's setup, but i NEED my traction.

 

thoughts?

 

I can accelerate my car hard in 2nd gear with my 335's, but I can not come close to giving it all the beans. It takes a nice warm day and good pavement to hold 3rd. I can blow them loose at 75mph at will. Keep in mind my car is up about 125hp or so from stock 725hp SS. There is no suspension mod or tire on the planet that will let you hook up over 850hp on the street (especially with 3.73 gears), Sorry! Not a chance. But there is a reason to have it. Its a blast! Also when some one wants a "roll on" race its astounding! In my opinion the rediculous amount of power is what makes this car so fun to drive. Trying to control the beast! No doubt its a drivers car!

 

I tried the PS2 335/25 and I did not like the look at all. It was about the height of the tire you are talking about. The 30 series is a full 28". It looks really good in the fenderwell. I think you could fit the 345/25 on your car, but all the extra rubber would stick-out from the fenderwell. Since its so short I do not think it would rub on compression either. I don't think you are gaining much with it and I doubt you will like the look compared to the 335/30.

 

One more thing to consider is your rear end. Wide tires, lots of HP and extra traction mean your parts are working harder back there. I immediatly had to add some lower control arms and a torque arm. Also my stock limited slip is toast, so its going to be upgraded ASAP.

[03 DSG Snake]

Had my 335 PS2 mounted for a week.

 

Checked air pressure yesterday, they are 30/15. I think one has a valve leak. Now I have to go BACK to the tire guys.

 

 

 

I also need to adjust the panhard a bit. My initital test drive was good. The second however sounded like it rubbed on full compression. But the tire was also low on that drive.

[one_quik_pony]

There is no suspension mod or tire on the planet that will let you hook up over 850hp on the street (especially with 3.73 gears), Sorry! Not a chance.

 

Give THESE babies a shot...

[Lee N.]

Give THESE babies a shot...

 

If we could run a 15" wheel like those we would have a shot at good traction. Unfortunalty as cool as the 20" rims look they are not the best for traction.

[03 DSG Snake]

So you guys are centering the wheels to the body with the Panhard?

 

 

I don't think plumb bobs will work, but I am going to place a straight edge vertically on the rim and measure the distance from that to the fender.

[SVTpower]

yes, with weight on the axles, centre using the panhard, and yes, plumb string/weight helps too. worst comes to worst, buy 1/16" or 1/8" spacers, you may need only one of them on one side only to help and it's so small, you won't see a difference. UPR sells them, I purchased 1/8" just in case I needed for my 325's but didn't so I was happy

[Robert M]

Give THESE babies a shot...

 

 

 

Looks like something from a D.P. Super Snake..............

 

R

[Robert M]

So you guys are centering the wheels to the body with the Panhard?

 

 

I don't think plumb bobs will work, but I am going to place a straight edge vertically on the rim and measure the distance from that to the fender.

 

 

 

So what did you finally do with the bracket? and the tire clearance?

 

R