Lee N. Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Hey guys, I totally understand that if you are going to go with an 11.5 and have to trim might as well go with the 11.75 and get the 335 and go all the way, Iam trying to figure out a way to get a litt,e more meat and not have to do the extra work. I understand that the metal is really nothing and the dust boot cover is no biggie, and the fact that it cost the same to do 11.0 to 12.0, but let say we did 11.25? how would that come into play? waying out options for the other guys that really dont want to pay 400 plus for rear tires and have to cut anything or worry about the longevity of an exposed shock i am only looking for the most amount of tire with an alcoa wheel...right now i have 295/30 toyo and it seems to clear everything. but if i can go a few bigger, would be somewhat reasnable Several guys are running 305's on the stock Alcoa wheel. I have not heard any horror stories about doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Never said there was no reason, just that for our application we should be ok without them. I did not think the Eibach kit had boots, but mine has the FRP so all I have done is look at pictures of the kit. Biggest thing that comes to my mind as to a reason for any type of shock boot is salt. If you are driving in an area that salts the roads quite often due to ice I can see the dust boots helping extend the life of the shocks. Salt sitting on a shock shaft will pit it after a while. The pitting could cause your seals to wear out early or the top of the shaft might rust over time. Even with that said "I" would prefer not having them even in those conditions because without them I can clean the shock shafts. Can not do that with the boots on. But granted most people would not go to the trouble. Also keep in mind these shocks were not made specifically for the Super Snake. I seriously doubt many (if any) SS owners use there car as a daily driver, much less in the snow, ice and rain. As far as adding expense to the shocks I take it you have not mess with them yet. I can not imagine they add much more than a nickle to the manufacturing cost of the shock. I easily cut mine off with a simple box knife. It all comes down to a choice. You can keep your 295's and not remove the dust cover dust covers and slide all over the road, or cut the things off and slap your 335's on (then you slide all over the road a little less). To me its a no-brainer! Lee - I am wayyyy past 275's, 295's, or 315's. The 12's were paid for this morning and they will be heading my way from Weldcraft on Thurs. I am, or will be where you are........all the way out..........335/30's and 12" Alcoa's. You may be right about salt, it seems to deteriorate everything, even the better of the metals. I did notice on the Eibach site that the studio picture of my shock/strut kit does not show them with boots. Maybe they are with the kit (in the box) but not "pretty" for photo pictures. I still would like to know what they say about the boots. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee N. Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I did notice on the Eibach site that the studio picture of my shock/strut kit does not show them with boots. Maybe they are with the kit (in the box) but not "pretty" for photo pictures. I still would like to know what they say about the boots. R I would like to know what he says as well. Hopefully you will find a tech that will get you some good info and not just a canned answer. I would ask if the warranty is void if you do not run the boots on and if he says "yes" ask why there advertisment does not show the boots. It will be interesting to see what he comes back with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Several guys are running 305's on the stock Alcoa wheel. I have not heard any horror stories about doing that. Here is a picture of Reg's 305 on a 10" Alcoa. ******Reg also shortened his axle by 1/2" on each side so the tires sit in a little, but this picture is mainly for the fitment of a 305 on a 10" Aolcoa. This tire is a Pirelli P Zero I believe. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breoland Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 The half inch that is saved by the rear is all the difference. I can tell right now that if I had those same tires on my car instead of the 295, that i would have rubbing issues. Im really close right now and that is with the tire sticking out a lil pass the fender lip. I put about 8in of wood under the one tire and nothing on the other to see if it would touch, it clears! those tires on the wheels with the rear cut down, makes all the difference. it looks like that is the way they should have come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breoland Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Several guys are running 305's on the stock Alcoa wheel. I have not heard any horror stories about doing that. I think the ones that are, are at stock ride hight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 The half inch that is saved by the rear is all the difference. I can tell right now that if I had those same tires on my car instead of the 295, that i would have rubbing issues. Im really close right now and that is with the tire sticking out a lil pass the fender lip. I put about 8in of wood under the one tire and nothing on the other to see if it would touch, it clears! those tires on the wheels with the rear cut down, makes all the difference. it looks like that is the way they should have come Pulling the tire/wheel's in by 1/2 inch on each side also makes it a 1/2 inch less of tire/wheel room toward the inside on each side, so a 335/30 would be out of the question with a shortened axle, and a 315 would probably be as tight as a normal non-shortened axle with a 335. I don't remember if Reg used a 305/30 or a 305/35? The 305 that he used was taller than the original 275/35 and the 335/30. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodger Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Here is a picture of Reg's 305 on a 10" Alcoa. ******Reg also shortened his axle by 1/2" on each side so the tires sit in a little, but this picture is mainly for the fitment of a 305 on a 10" Aolcoa. This tire is a Pirelli P Zero I believe. R Hi Are you guys running 305s on the stock Alcoa's with out extra loading, as the Pirelli 305s in the UK are not extra load? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Hi Are you guys running 305s on the stock Alcoa's with out extra loading, as the Pirelli 305s in the UK are not extra load? TireRack.com lists the 305/35 Pirelli P Zero at 1984lbs. max. load. They are also 28.4" tall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowShelby Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 I see most of the widening was done on the earlier style Shelby. Is everything still the same on the 2010+? I would love some 335s out back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 DSG Snake Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Sidenote: Did you guys with the widened Alcoas need a fairly large amount of weights to balance the modified rims and large tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowShelby Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Since the widening is taking place on the inside of the rim, wouldn't that make the effective offset of a 20x12 right around a +62. It seems the new centerline would be moved 1" further away form the mounting flange and the offset would increase by ~25.4mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 If anybody is interested.................... I have two Front 20 x 9 Shelby Alcoa Rims at Weldcraft waiting for instruction as to what width they are to be made to. Lee N. and I have spoken about this. The difference with the offset on the front rim versus the rear rim in offset is 12.7 MM. The outer edge of the rim actually sits in slightly further from what Lee observed. Also, the front offset still clears the Baer 6 Piston Big Brakes in the rear. These wheels will work nicely for someone wanting to run a 315 or less and possibly not wanting to remove anything from the car (brackets etc.) Lee and I discussed it and 10.5 with this rim will have enough clearance without requiring any cutting. If you are willing to cut the discussed brackets 11.25 to 11 3/8ths is the maximum width for the rim. Best part...................The wheels are ready to be made to order and both wheels will have weld seam smoothing shipped to your door for $1,700.00 OBO. Shoot me an email or give me a call if you are interested. Van Collier Revan Racing, Inc. 561-445-7702 dvancollier@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee N. Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 If anybody is interested.................... I have two Front 20 x 9 Shelby Alcoa Rims at Weldcraft waiting for instruction as to what width they are to be made to. Lee N. and I have spoken about this. The difference with the offset on the front rim versus the rear rim in offset is 12.7 MM. The outer edge of the rim actually sits in slightly further from what Lee observed. Also, the front offset still clears the Baer 6 Piston Big Brakes in the rear. These wheels will work nicely for someone wanting to run a 315 or less and possibly not wanting to remove anything from the car (brackets etc.) Lee and I discussed it and 10.5 with this rim will have enough clearance without requiring any cutting. If you are willing to cut the discussed brackets 11.25 to 11 3/8ths is the maximum width for the rim. Best part...................The wheels are ready to be made to order and both wheels will have weld seam smoothing shipped to your door for $1,700.00 OBO. Shoot me an email or give me a call if you are interested. Van Collier Revan Racing, Inc. 561-445-7702 dvancollier@gmail.com It looked to me when taking the measurements that widening a front rim for a rear application would be a really good way to go because of the slightly deeper offset. It will tuck the lip of the rim in enough where you would not have any issues with a taller tire. The very popular 315/35/20 size could finally become a great option with these widened to11". Might really be on to something here!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 It looked to me when taking the measurements that widening a front rim for a rear application would be a really good way to go because of the slightly deeper offset. It will tuck the lip of the rim in enough where you would not have any issues with a taller tire. The very popular 315/35/20 size could finally become a great option with these widened to11". Might really be on to something here!! Tell me more about what you all are talking about and widening the front 9" Alcoa for the rear application? I compared a bare 9" and a 10" Alcoa side-by-side face down a few months ago with a straight edge across the back side lip and found that when measuring from the brake mounting surface to the back edge of the bare rim, the 10" Alcoa was exactly 1" wider/taller to the rear lip, from the mounting surface. So where is the slightly deeper/different offset? Thanks, R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Tell me more about what you all are talking about and widening the front 9" Alcoa for the rear application? I compared a bare 9" and a 10" Alcoa side-by-side face down a few months ago with a straight edge across the back side lip and found that when measuring from the brake mounting surface to the back edge of the bare rim, the 10" Alcoa was exactly 1" wider/taller to the rear lip, from the mounting surface. So where is the slightly deeper/different offset? Thanks, R Robert If you had both bare rims on a smooth surface and measure from the mounting surface toward the front of the rim through the center hole you'll see the different offset. Van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbackg Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 12.7 MM = 1/2 inch So yes, may be onto something here. How wide can you go then? If the 10" rear can be widen to 12" with an 1/8 spacer, I think yes you could add 2.25 to 2.375" to the 9" rim for the rear application. Must remove the bracket and shock boot, and trim the bump stop. Brand new! Who makes the 315/35/20? Michelin Pilot Super Sport @ Tire Rack priced @ $479 http://www.tirerack....romCompare1=yes No specs yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Exactly. 11.375 would be maximum width from what Lee N. was able to measure with one of his front wheels mounted on a stock GT500 with all factory pieces in place. Brackets, shock covers etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbackg Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Exactly. 11.375 would be maximum width from what Lee N. was able to measure with one of his front wheels mounted on a stock GT500 with all factory pieces in place. Brackets, shock covers etc. Thanks Van, this is such great info. Just to be clear, in your previous post, #253, widen 1.5" to 10.5 = no modifications needed. widen 2.375" to 11.375" on the front 20 x 9" alcoas would be the maximum, however, you must: 1. remove the bracket 2. shock boot (dust cover) 3. trim the bump stop. From my research, http://ejelta.com/tiresize/index.html?ws20=1 315/35/20 will be approx 28.68" tall, almost a complete inch taller than the stock SS rear tire setup. = 27.7 Michelin 335/30/20 PS2. = 28" tall 335mm = 13.188976" 315mm = 12.401575" = .787401 difference x 2 = 1.574802" more tire on the road. I still like Robert's setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breoland Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I hate this place! THats a great find there Lee... a 315 on a 10.5 wheel without any mods, what more could I want:) no the only thing is what do I do with my rears with brand new tires:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee N. Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I hate this place! THats a great find there Lee... a 315 on a 10.5 wheel without any mods, what more could I want:) no the only thing is what do I do with my rears with brand new tires:) All I did was stick a tape measure to it. Its Van's brilliant idea! Or at least it was him that stumbled hopelessly into this discovery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelin Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I think post said aleast 11 inch with 315 with no mods?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbackg Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Go to (1:23 ) mark. alcoa actually scanned the GT 500 wheel well. hmmm. really? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revan Racing Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Exactly. 11.375 would be maximum width from what Lee N. was able to measure with one of his front wheels mounted on a stock GT500 with all factory pieces in place. Brackets, shock covers etc. Wheels are spoken for. Other guys are going to be running this set up. When we have some pics we'll post them up for all to see. Thanks Van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 DSG Snake Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Ok so here's something whacky. Got my wheels back 2 months or so ago. Had them mounted and came home. Next day the RR was at around 16psi and the LR was at 26-28. Took it back to the tire store, he said the RR was leaking on the inside bead, and that the PS2 has a bead that is picky about being seated. He remounted and balanced the tire, this time using a LOT less weights than originally. Drove it around, up to SEMA and back, around town, etc. It does rub now and then on steep driveways, I need to reinstall the original bumpstops and center the panhard better. It was centered when I put the widened wheels on but now it appears to be biased to the left. 3 weeks ago a low tire popped up, the LR was slowly losing air and down to 24. Parked it for 2 weeks, went to fill them with the compressor in the garage and both tires were at 10 or lower. ummmmm.... Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Go to (1:23 ) mark. alcoa actually scanned the GT 500 wheel well. hmmm. really? Since the Super Snake is shown in this Alcoa ad, as well as the 40th, and the Super Snake comes from Shelby with rear brake ducts (I'm not sure if the 40th does or not?) I'm sure that when the wheel well was scanned, the rear ducts were in place and taken into consideration. If the wheels/tires were any wider, either the rear ducts would have to be redesigned, or they would have to be deleted. So the Alcoas fit the area that they (Alcoa) worked with, on a production Super Snake. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee N. Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Ok so here's something whacky. Got my wheels back 2 months or so ago. Had them mounted and came home. Next day the RR was at around 16psi and the LR was at 26-28. Took it back to the tire store, he said the RR was leaking on the inside bead, and that the PS2 has a bead that is picky about being seated. He remounted and balanced the tire, this time using a LOT less weights than originally. Drove it around, up to SEMA and back, around town, etc. It does rub now and then on steep driveways, I need to reinstall the original bumpstops and center the panhard better. It was centered when I put the widened wheels on but now it appears to be biased to the left. 3 weeks ago a low tire popped up, the LR was slowly losing air and down to 24. Parked it for 2 weeks, went to fill them with the compressor in the garage and both tires were at 10 or lower. ummmmm.... Ideas? Loosing air seems really odd. Might be the way they seated the beads?? Maybe valve stems?? Not sure. I have never lost ANY air in mine. I can see the rubbing because of the shorter bumpstops and the non centered panhard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbackg Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Loosing air seems really odd. Might be the way they seated the beads?? Maybe valve stems?? Not sure. I have never lost ANY air in mine. I can see the rubbing because of the shorter bumpstops and the non centered panhard. I have the same exact problem as DSG on another vehicle with a custom wheel/tire application. I will be going to the tire shop sometime within the next week. I will post what I find out. RE: Brake ducts, Alcoa scanned wheel wells. Robert, yes you are correct, but Alcoa has scanned dimensions, so they should be able to disclose what the ideal wheel size and offset should be along with tires size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 RE: Brake ducts, Alcoa scanned wheel wells. Robert, yes you are correct, but Alcoa has scanned dimensions, so they should be able to disclose what the ideal wheel size and offset should be along with tires size. Do you mean for tire and wheel applications that are modified from what Shelby provided? The wheel width itself is out to the outer edge of the fender lip so there is no more room outward, and if the wheel was wider to the inside, the tire would contact the brake duct. For what they had to work with, there are not many other options without modifications. The only thing that "may" work, is a larger tire on the 10" Alcoa, maybe a 295, but I think that even then there will be brake duct contact, but I am not sure of that contact. If you are saying that they should be able to provide ideal wheel size and tire width if things were removed and modified, they probably could, but I would guess that they were scanning for what needed to be designed and built for the specific application, and that closed down the other/wider options. One other thought that may come into play is who owns the data for the Super Snake Alcoa? Since SA has a lock on these wheels, any information related to the design and research including the wheel well scanning (that I'm sure was paid for by SA) may be "locked" information and Alcoa is not able to release anything related to these wheels unless approved by SA? Just a thought. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500forme Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I am currently running 295's on my Alcoa's and have about 3/8" clearance between the tire and brake ducts. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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