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So what did you finally do with the bracket? and the tire clearance?

 

R

 

 

I cut the bracket and the shock boots. I left a little more of the outboard side of the bracket in tact, but I cut off the vertical portion. I used a die grinder to smooth everything out then undercoated it all after cleaning it up.

 

I test drove the car for about 4 miles and all seemed well. It sat for a week and noticed a low tire. I took it out for a quick errand and noticed it rubbed once at full bump. Checked the pressures later and DS was 30psi with the PS at 15psi.

 

About to jack it up to double check for any sharpies in the PS tire, fill it to about 25psi to get to the tire place then have them check the valves.

 

I also plan to center the axle a little better and recheck clearance.

 

 

I'm off to Vegas with it tomorrow evening so hopefully I can sort it all out this afternoon.

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I cut the bracket and the shock boots. I left a little more of the outboard side of the bracket in tact, but I cut off the vertical portion. I used a die grinder to smooth everything out then undercoated it all after cleaning it up.

 

I test drove the car for about 4 miles and all seemed well. It sat for a week and noticed a low tire. I took it out for a quick errand and noticed it rubbed once at full bump. Checked the pressures later and DS was 30psi with the PS at 15psi.

 

About to jack it up to double check for any sharpies in the PS tire, fill it to about 25psi to get to the tire place then have them check the valves.

 

I also plan to center the axle a little better and recheck clearance.

 

 

I'm off to Vegas with it tomorrow evening so hopefully I can sort it all out this afternoon.

 

 

If you get a chance, could you snap a couple pictures of how you modded and finished your bracket, and cut the shock boot? Just so I can see optional ways to clearance this........

 

R

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2 issues noted:

 

 

1: The Undercoating below where the Spot Welds were cut got rubbed off onto the inside of the tire. I checked both the clearance with the axle sitting on jack stands as well as with the axle at full droop. Neither spots or anything in between rubs this area. :headscratch:

 

IMG00771-20101102-1554.jpg

(Plastic plug is where Spot Welds were).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2: The FRPP sway bar offers very minimal clearance from the Passenger side to the Driver Side. Can this be adjusted? I couldn't seem to pry it one way or the other.

 

 

Passenger:

IMG00778-20101102-1643.jpg

 

 

Driver:

IMG00779-20101102-1644.jpg

 

 

 

 

HELP! :angry22:

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2 issues noted:

 

 

1: The Undercoating below where the Spot Welds were cut got rubbed off onto the inside of the tire. I checked both the clearance with the axle sitting on jack stands as well as with the axle at full droop. Neither spots or anything in between rubs this area. :headscratch:

 

IMG00771-20101102-1554.jpg

(Plastic plug is where Spot Welds were).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2: The FRPP sway bar offers very minimal clearance from the Passenger side to the Driver Side. Can this be adjusted? I couldn't seem to pry it one way or the other.

 

 

Passenger:

IMG00778-20101102-1643.jpg

 

 

Driver:

IMG00779-20101102-1644.jpg

 

 

 

 

HELP! :angry22:

 

 

The axle is rubbing under articulation (when one tire goes up and the other goes down). Mine did the same. I had to offset the axle about 1/8 to the passenger side. I also had to scrape all the factory undercoating from a few spots. I had some that was 1/4 thick. Mine does not rub anymore. You can adjust the sway-bar. You may need to take it off in order to slide the mounts and re-install it.

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The axle is rubbing under articulation (when one tire goes up and the other goes down). Mine did the same. I had to offset the axle about 1/8 to the passenger side. I also had to scrape all the factory undercoating from a few spots. I had some that was 1/4 thick. Mine does not rub anymore. You can adjust the sway-bar. You may need to take it off in order to slide the mounts and re-install it.

 

 

I slowly started to figure this out last night. It'll rub on certain steep driveways going in at a 45 degree angle, but not all.

 

I normally turn right into driveways and it doesn't always do it.

 

 

 

 

For reference, here's the Passenger Side:

 

IMG00772-20101102-1604.jpg

 

Less rub than the Driver Side, but still the same area. It looks like it might have even rubbed the remaining portion of the bracket that was cut, but not sure how it is possible considering at full droop the inside of the rim still has plenty of clearance.

 

 

I plan to adjust the swaybar after work today then I am off to SEMA. I think the undercoating rub will be ok for now as it only seems to happen on a steep driveway event. I won't be hitting the corkscrew at Laguna this weekend. :dance:

 

I should be good for now, right? :headscratch:

 

I think when I return I will also cut the bracket some more, just to be safe.

 

 

 

 

If it is rubbing on both sides, will shifting towards the passenger side correct for both?

 

Also, after removing the undercoating to cut off the bracket, I sprayed a few coats of Duplicolor undercoating. I imagine some of it added to the thickness of the stock material, which is about the area it is rubbing now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all. I know I've had tons of questions on this stuff but be gentle, it's my first time [with 335s]. :hysterical:

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I slowly started to figure this out last night. It'll rub on certain steep driveways going in at a 45 degree angle, but not all.

 

I normally turn right into driveways and it doesn't always do it.

 

 

 

 

For reference, here's the Passenger Side:

 

IMG00772-20101102-1604.jpg

 

Less rub than the Driver Side, but still the same area. It looks like it might have even rubbed the remaining portion of the bracket that was cut, but not sure how it is possible considering at full droop the inside of the rim still has plenty of clearance.

 

 

I plan to adjust the swaybar after work today then I am off to SEMA. I think the undercoating rub will be ok for now as it only seems to happen on a steep driveway event. I won't be hitting the corkscrew at Laguna this weekend. :dance:

 

I should be good for now, right? :headscratch:

 

I think when I return I will also cut the bracket some more, just to be safe.

 

 

 

 

If it is rubbing on both sides, will shifting towards the passenger side correct for both?

 

Also, after removing the undercoating to cut off the bracket, I sprayed a few coats of Duplicolor undercoating. I imagine some of it added to the thickness of the stock material, which is about the area it is rubbing now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all. I know I've had tons of questions on this stuff but be gentle, it's my first time [with 335s]. :hysterical:

 

 

 

One other thing I thought about today............................If you are adjusting your panhard bar, you are basically pulling the body to the right or to the left, is this correct? If so, since the panhard bar is connected to the rear suspension and to the body, wouldn't the rear sway bar need to be disconnected to make the panhard adjustments? The rear sway bar is also connected to the body and the rear suspension and it would seem that the sway bar, if connected during the panhard adjustment, would work against any adjustments? I thought about this further after you showed pictures of the rear tire almost touching the rear sway bar on one side.

 

R

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One other thing I thought about today............................If you are adjusting your panhard bar, you are basically pulling the body to the right or to the left, is this correct? If so, since the panhard bar is connected to the rear suspension and to the body, wouldn't the rear sway bar need to be disconnected to make the panhard adjustments? The rear sway bar is also connected to the body and the rear suspension and it would seem that the sway bar, if connected during the panhard adjustment, would work against any adjustments? I thought about this further after you showed pictures of the rear tire almost touching the rear sway bar on one side.

 

R

 

 

The swaybar is relatively straight in the middle area, so it is basically going to 'slide' left to right through the bushings connected to the chassis as the axle is adjusted.

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The swaybar is relatively straight in the middle area, so it is basically going to 'slide' left to right through the bushings connected to the chassis as the axle is adjusted.

 

 

 

Does it slide that easily? Ok, I was not sure how easy it would slide in the frame bushings..

 

R

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I slowly started to figure this out last night. It'll rub on certain steep driveways going in at a 45 degree angle, but not all.

 

I normally turn right into driveways and it doesn't always do it.

 

 

 

 

For reference, here's the Passenger Side:

 

IMG00772-20101102-1604.jpg

 

Less rub than the Driver Side, but still the same area. It looks like it might have even rubbed the remaining portion of the bracket that was cut, but not sure how it is possible considering at full droop the inside of the rim still has plenty of clearance.

 

 

I plan to adjust the swaybar after work today then I am off to SEMA. I think the undercoating rub will be ok for now as it only seems to happen on a steep driveway event. I won't be hitting the corkscrew at Laguna this weekend. :dance:

 

I should be good for now, right? :headscratch:

 

I think when I return I will also cut the bracket some more, just to be safe.

 

 

 

 

If it is rubbing on both sides, will shifting towards the passenger side correct for both?

 

Also, after removing the undercoating to cut off the bracket, I sprayed a few coats of Duplicolor undercoating. I imagine some of it added to the thickness of the stock material, which is about the area it is rubbing now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all. I know I've had tons of questions on this stuff but be gentle, it's my first time [with 335s]. :hysterical:

 

 

You should be fine. I bet you have 1/8 to 1/4" worth of undercoating. Mine rubbed until I scraped it off. I would trim your bracket more. Thats the only thing that might cause you some trouble. If you still have some rubbing issues when crossed up you can put some thin 1/8 spacers on. Those 335's do not leave ANY room left over under there.

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Quick intermission, WHat is the verdict on the bump stop bracket, is it a bump stop bracket or is it a lifting point for fords assembly line?

 

 

The bumpstop hits the bottom of the bracket right under the frame. The side is for assembly line. Cutting the side off does not effect the performance of the bumpstop.

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awesome. I just picked up a set of alcoas wrapped i nitto nt05. standerd sizes for now while my car is somewhat stock. when Im ready for new tires, i'll be making the cut. I just hope by then there will be more 315s out there that are a lot shorter than whats out there now

 

What........you want shorter than a 30 aspect ratio? a 315/25 ratio will look like a rubber band. Do you understand how tire sizes work? the 30 is a %, so in a 315/30/20, 30% of 315mm is the height of the sidewall.

 

Hope this helps

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The bumpstop hits the bottom of the bracket right under the frame. The side is for assembly line. Cutting the side off does not effect the performance of the bumpstop.

 

 

I would also think that this assy. line bracket wraps around the bottom of the rear frame rail so that when the body was picked up, the frame rail would support the weight, not just the inner fender sheet metal.

 

R

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What........you want shorter than a 30 aspect ratio? a 315/25 ratio will look like a rubber band. Do you understand how tire sizes work? the 30 is a %, so in a 315/30/20, 30% of 315mm is the height of the sidewall.

 

Hope this helps

 

I agree. I did not like the 335/25's because I though thtye were too short. The 315's would look really small! Also a shorter sidewall lowers your traction.

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the tire sizes are confusing but from what i have seen is that most of the 315/35/20's that are out there are about 28.8 in tall. there are none out there that are 28 or 27 which is closer to the stock hieght. most of them were way too tall or way to short. would love to see one come out 27.5

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the tire sizes are confusing but from what i have seen is that most of the 315/35/20's that are out there are about 28.8 in tall. there are none out there that are 28 or 27 which is closer to the stock hieght. most of them were way too tall or way to short. would love to see one come out 27.5

 

 

I believe it is going to be a 315/30 that will be the closest to stock height or slightly shorter, like the Toyo R888, and then the 335/30 which is slightly taller like the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2.

 

R

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the tire sizes are confusing but from what i have seen is that most of the 315/35/20's that are out there are about 28.8 in tall. there are none out there that are 28 or 27 which is closer to the stock hieght. most of them were way too tall or way to short. would love to see one come out 27.5

 

Not confusing, simple math.

 

You will never see a 315/35/20 be 28 or 27 tall, if it were, it won't be a 315/35/20. Want 27.5 tall????, then you have to settle with a 315/30 at 27.6 tall or mine 325/30 at 27.7 tall. 335/30/20 is 28.0 tall.

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Not confusing, simple math.

 

You will never see a 315/35/20 be 28 or 27 tall, if it were, it won't be a 315/35/20. Want 27.5 tall????, then you have to settle with a 315/30 at 27.6 tall or mine 325/30 at 27.7 tall. 335/30/20 is 28.0 tall.

 

 

yep. what he said.

i have 315/30/20 and they are 27.7. very close to stock height.

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How wide did you go 11.5? did you trim bumpstop and dust cover or just the bumpstop

 

 

 

After speaking with Lee N. further recently, and discussing 11.75" vs. 12", he said that he does not feel that 12" was a bad thing. He has had no contact during his driving experiences since the 12" install, and he said that the only time that there was "slight contact" with the sound deadener (on one side only during the initial install) was when the suspension was fully compressed on that side and fully extended on the other, which most likely will not happen to any of us, or if it does it will be few and far between. He said that he is going to remove his 1/8" spacer from the one side that it was installed, but has not taken the time to do so.

 

After our discussion(s), I have sent my Alcoa's out to Weldcraft for 12" widening. I want my rear 335/30 PS2's to match the 275/35 PS2 profile on the front perfectly and I believe that 12" will provide this look.

 

Here is the 275/35 PS2 9" front, flat side wall with a slight bulge and the rim guard feature fits the rim lip properly......................

 

Picture1855.jpg

 

The 275/35 PS2's have been on nationwide backorder for months, I found one new in PA and the other in CA. Now I see that Tire Rack no longer lists the PS2 in the 275/35/20.........

R

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thanks for the pic robert. i am moving my stock rear 275's to the front now that i have worn out the original tires on raceday(s)!

 

ROn

 

 

 

Yes, the 275/35 P Zero should be a nice fit on the 9" rim.

 

I would have been very happy if Pirelli would have offered a 335 in a regular P Zero but they don't. That would have saved me a bunch of $$$ in my quest to match tires on all four corners. A 335 is offered in a Pirelli P Zero Rosso, but when comparing the specs to a 335 Michelin PS2, the Rosso is slightly wider and as tight as it is going to be already, I didn't want to gamble on a tire that has not been test fitted. I guess that Pirelli and Michelin measure their tires at different locations on the tread surface, as I have found with other tire manufacturers. All tires of the same size are not equal, it all depends upon where the specific manufacturer measures their tread.

 

R

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  • 2 weeks later...
After speaking with Lee N. further recently, and discussing 11.75" vs. 12", he said that he does not feel that 12" was a bad thing. He has had no contact during his driving experiences since the 12" install, and he said that the only time that there was "slight contact" with the sound deadener (on one side only during the initial install) was when the suspension was fully compressed on that side and fully extended on the other, which most likely will not happen to any of us, or if it does it will be few and far between. He said that he is going to remove his 1/8" spacer from the one side that it was installed, but has not taken the time to do so.

 

I get rub like that when entering a driveway at a 45 degree angle.

 

 

I eventually want to swap to a Watts Link to better center the rear through all ranges.

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I get rub like that when entering a driveway at a 45 degree angle.

 

 

I eventually want to swap to a Watts Link to better center the rear through all ranges.

 

 

 

I should be getting a call from James any day now saying my Super Snakes are widened. I know there may be a contact issue and I will space one or both wheels out 1/8" if needed. 1/8" (0.125) is really not much, not even the thickness of two tooth picks.

 

Do you have contact on both sides?

 

R

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So what did you finally do with the bracket? and the tire clearance?

 

R

 

 

http://www.teamshelb...es/page__st__40

 

This is the link on my SS. RE: the removal, undercoating, and blending of the bump stop bracket. Post # 56

I have not widen my wheels yet. Still on the fence.

1. 11.5"

2. 11.75"

3. 12.0"

I really like Robert M, post #173

"275/35 PS2 9 front, flat side wall with a slight bulge and the rim guard feature fits the rim lip properly"

"I want my rear 335/30 PS2's to match the 275/35 PS2 profile on the front perfectly and I believe that 12" will provide this look."

Robert what is your rear end suspension set up? Any upgrades?

This wheel/tire predicament could drive someone crazy. We are dealing with 1/8 inch or less margins.

However re: the rears. Do you think with the 12" widened wheel with the 335/30 PS2 set up you will get the same damage results DSG 03 Snake got in post # 153?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Super Snake guys with the Ford Racing springs:

 

 

Are you using the stock or trimmed axle bumpstops?

 

 

 

 

I think my shorter Ford Racing bumpstops might be causing a little more rub than desired. Such as that when the axle goes 1 up 1 down / at extreme angles (45 degrees into a driveway) it's allowed to twist more with the shorter stops. :headscratch:

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