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bigger rear tires


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The PS2 comes on the Saleen S7 Twin Turbo, Bugatti Veron, ZR1 Vette, Lingenfelder Vette, and more Ferrari's than you can shake a stick at! Not to mention its 1/2 the price. I can understand if you just like the size, but the Dunlap its not a better tire. Besides the SL65 is not that impressive or a performance car anyway. So I do not think them being on this car (and this car only) would give them the "Top Dog" status. Not trying to start anything here, just trying to understand the choice.

 

 

Show me where I said it was the best..........it's Dunlops best and as I said, doubt they'd put on a crappy tire on that AMG. I wasn't starting anything either, was giving another choice, too bad it's a more pricey choice but works well for me. I do believe that you or I can't tell the difference with our skill level anyways.........especially on the street where we don't get near the limit. I simply needed the right size and that was it for me. Cheers

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Show me where I said it was the best..........it's Dunlops best and as I said, doubt they'd put on a crappy tire on that AMG. I wasn't starting anything either, was giving another choice, too bad it's a more pricey choice but works well for me. I do believe that you or I can't tell the difference with our skill level anyways.........especially on the street where we don't get near the limit. I simply needed the right size and that was it for me. Cheers

 

 

I took your statement "You won't like the price but are Dunlops top dog!" as saying they were better. After re-reading I see. My bad. The Dunlap is NOT a crappy tire. I was not saying that. They make a great tire! This thread was started to talk about options for tires and thats what we are talking about. If you can not discuss the pro's and con's than whats it all for? I have not mounted a set of 325's on my car so I have no first hand knowledge of them. All I know is they are twice the price and not a better performer. No we are down to size. So why do you like the 325 over the 335?

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I took your statement "You won't like the price but are Dunlops top dog!" as saying they were better. After re-reading I see. My bad. The Dunlap is NOT a crappy tire. I was not saying that. They make a great tire! This thread was started to talk about options for tires and thats what we are talking about. If you can not discuss the pro's and con's than whats it all for? I have not mounted a set of 325's on my car so I have no first hand knowledge of them. All I know is they are twice the price and not a better performer. No we are down to size. So why do you like the 325 over the 335?

 

 

It's all good buddy, the size/width along with the overall height of 27.7" and my 11" wheel it was just perfect for me. I'm sure I can fit the 335's the next time but will probably need a 1/16 or max 1/8" spacer but they may stick out a bit. for now, I'm good. cheers

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It's all good buddy, the size/width along with the overall height of 27.7" and my 11" wheel it was just perfect for me. I'm sure I can fit the 335's the next time but will probably need a 1/16 or max 1/8" spacer but they may stick out a bit. for now, I'm good. cheers

 

 

The 11" rim answers the question. The 335 would be sticking out quite a bit. 1/2" farther than mine (mine are stretched to 12"). With it also being taller the 335's would not clear. Good to know you can run that much tire on an 11". Thanks for the info.

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The 11" rim answers the question. The 335 would be sticking out quite a bit. 1/2" farther than mine (mine are stretched to 12"). With it also being taller the 335's would not clear. Good to know you can run that much tire on an 11". Thanks for the info.

 

 

by specs, 10 mm more is 3/8" divided by both sides so 3/16" more on the outer edge than I have now and a 1/4 more on the section width again on the one side......wouldn't be too bad, Yup........my 325 has a recommended 11-12 rim, the 335 I'm guessing a min. of 11.5? I'd still be comfortable putting it on an 11" although the manufacturer doesn't recommend it but I'm good for now. Mine still doesn't hook, not bad once warm and asphalt warm 2nd gear and up but first gear useless for any street tire above stock hp level as you probably know.........and like you if I remember from past posts, don't want a DR tire and worry about safety/rain etc......we're on the same page.

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by specs, 10 mm more is 3/8" divided by both sides so 3/16" more on the outer edge than I have now and a 1/4 more on the section width again on the one side......wouldn't be too bad, Yup........my 325 has a recommended 11-12 rim, the 335 I'm guessing a min. of 11.5? I'd still be comfortable putting it on an 11" although the manufacturer doesn't recommend it but I'm good for now. Mine still doesn't hook, not bad once warm and asphalt warm 2nd gear and up but first gear useless for any street tire above stock hp level as you probably know.........and like you if I remember from past posts, don't want a DR tire and worry about safety/rain etc......we're on the same page.

 

 

I was comparing a 335 on my 12" to a 335 on your 11's. I have 1" more rim on the inside so youe tires would extend 1/2 out farther than mine. At that width and the 28" tire height the tires would hit the fender lip on full compression. I think you need atleast a 11.5" to run a 335/30. I agree with you 100% on the drag radials. And I do not see how we could ever get these things to hook in 1st!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

can i run this set up with eibach springs? 1.5 front 1.7 rear?

 

 

The height of the springs have no effect on tire clearance for the rear. Lowered car, stock car, it does not matter. They all bottom out at the same point. The lowered car just simply has less compression before it hits the bumpstop.

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Lee,

 

Is there a good picture floating around of what needs to be clearanced on the bumpstop brackets? The few I've seen looks like they are just grinded down on the edge. :headscratch:

 

 

Here are a couple of mine. You need to cut the upper portion off the bracket. If you compare these to the one on your car you will see. Real easy.

post-24857-048518500 1285710482_thumb.jpg

post-24857-072407400 1285710495_thumb.jpg

post-24857-048518500 1285710482_thumb.jpg

post-24857-072407400 1285710495_thumb.jpg

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With the hub of our wheel being pretty thick, has anyone thought of having Weldcraft or another machine shop lathe the inside hub or our wheels by ~ 1/4 inch to bring the wheel into the wheel well more?

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With the hub of our wheel being pretty thick, has anyone thought of having Weldcraft or another machine shop lathe the inside hub or our wheels by ~ 1/4 inch to bring the wheel into the wheel well more?

 

 

 

I have asked that several times and noone came up with an anser for that. even an 1/8 of an inch would help

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With the hub of our wheel being pretty thick, has anyone thought of having Weldcraft or another machine shop lathe the inside hub or our wheels by ~ 1/4 inch to bring the wheel into the wheel well more?

 

 

My guess is that no one would want to be responsible for possibly weakening a wheel at its mounting point. I agree that some material possibly could be removed, but at what point will it cause issues? If it could be thinner in this area, wouldn't Alcoa and Shelby have saved money by not producing the wheel with "extra" material in this area? The lug nut mounting area is very deep in these wheels, by the time you get down to the beveled surface where the lug nuts actually contact the wheel, how thick is it to the mounting flange?

 

R

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My guess is that no one would want to be responsible for possibly weakening a wheel at its mounting point. I agree that some material possibly could be removed, but at what point will it cause issues? If it could be thinner in this area, wouldn't Alcoa and Shelby have saved money by not producing the wheel with "extra" material in this area? The lug nut mounting area is very deep in these wheels, by the time you get down to the beveled surface where the lug nuts actually contact the wheel, how thick is it to the mounting flange?

 

R

 

 

The distance from the lug to the hub, I never thought about the depth there. But a forged wheel is ~ 3x stronger than steel, look how shallow a steel wheel is in the same area maybe an 1/8 of an inch thick? May work? Who wants to try it first???

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The distance from the lug to the hub, I never thought about the depth there. But a forged wheel is ~ 3x stronger than steel, look how shallow a steel wheel is in the same area maybe an 1/8 of an inch thick? May work? Who wants to try it first???

 

 

With the kinda HP we are putting down with these things I would not want to go that route. Best you could get is 1/4 and you would be weakining the wheel. There is a full 2" inches of unused space in there just begging for rubber! Just widen those suckers!

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I just recieved my 335 ps2" today holy ///////// what a difference in width .Sending rims this week what did you guys pay per wheel to have them widened and blended out

 

Belive mine were 275 pluse 50 to blend each wheel blend well worth the 50

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Has anyone thought about putting the Rear 10's up front and widing the fronts for the rear? I know the FR500 cars are running 10's up front although they are 18's

 

 

 

I mentioned this a few months ago, the 10" rears moved to the front. I don't think anyone has attempted this yet.

 

I'd be happy to at least regain the original 9.5 width on the front.

 

R

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Shipping back Monday.

 

 

 

 

How well are the 335 Michelins holding up on the streets for you high HP guys? Still spinning? :headscratch:

 

 

Holding up well, but still spinning. I blew mine loose on the highway the other day at about 75mph.

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I just recieved my 335 ps2" today holy ///////// what a difference in width .Sending rims this week what did you guys pay per wheel to have them widened and blended out

 

 

They are pretty massive looking sitting on the floor. Did you get the 335/25 or 335/30's.

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