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bigger rear tires


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1/4" plywood, its the back side of the new donut hole cover it is hinged so it can be opened for access; without removing it or everything on top. The top is covered with the same material used on the back side of the trunk lid.

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Thxs R

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sorry all for the delayed response. i don't check back here too often.

 

the tire size up front is the 285/35/20 on a 10" wide wheel with +33 offset. the rear is a 315/30/20 on a 12" wheel with +61 offset. the front fits great with a little camber (1.7° up front), which is what i wanted to run on this car as it is. had I gone with a more conservative offset (the wheel has et33 offset), i could have run less. the suspension i use has adjustable camber plates (kw clubsports). the only reason I went so aggressive on the front offset is for a little extra clearance at full lock with brake ducts. i used to have a 19x10" et43 wheel with a 15mm spacer (effectively being +28 offset) that still fit just fine up front, but the tire was a slightly smaller overall diameter. the nice thing about a custom wheel company is that you can iron out little quirks like this. the pad on the back of the hub/center of the wheel (where it bolts to the hub of the car) has 7mm of material that can be safely shaved off, so if i wanted to make the wheel a little less conservative and go with some roush steering limiters, that's an open avenue.

 

i'd like to point out that the 12" wheel with the toyo r888 315s tend to rub more and more as you lower ride height in the rear. my car has coilovers, so curiosity bit me and i cranked it down to see what it looked like. i liked the look, but it rubbed on the inside of the wheel wells when the axle articulated and rode like crap (expected). 3mm spacers didn't fix the rub completely and also introduced a little rub on the lips of the fenders, so i deemed the "slammed" look out of the question. i like functional suspension geometry anyways--this was just to see what the car would look like. as soon as these toyos wear out, i'll throw 335s on the rear and see if i can raise the ride height a little bit to help stuff it in the fender.

 

below are pictures of different ride heights. you can see how close the tire gets to the fender when its all the way down.

 

rear all the way down

IMG_2159.jpg

 

 

raised back up a little

 

IMG_3515.jpg

 

IMG_3519.jpg

 

IMG_3520.jpg

 

here's how the front wheels tuck into the fender with a little camber.

IMG_3523.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

sorry for the long post. hope this helps!

 

Your set up is fantastic.

 

You seem to be running a rear wheel/tire combo that is equal to or even a bit smaller than others on this thread that do not have rubbing. Obviously even when you were way low, that should be close to others when fully compressed.

 

How much space do you still have between the inner fender sheetmetal like the bumpstop bracket? Would removing the bumpstop bracket solve your rubbing?

 

Really love the stance and the filled fenders, looks incredible. :thumbsup:

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is a watts link like a pan hard bar? as far as adjusting from left to right or is it once its on there thats it? i need to move my wheels 1/4" to the pass side as it is for the wider wheels

Mine has adjustable arm links that go from the center pivot arm of the unit to the mounting arms that can be used to help center the rear-end. It will keep everything in place as long as nothing is broken bent or missing. But you will want to center your rear end as best you can prior to installing it. You can also raise or lower the body and adjust the tires angle with a watts unit.

I have the Fays2 watts unit and like it. Go to his web site http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_13_.html and read up on watts system and what they do for your car.

 

The rear-end can be off center from the factory as much as 3/32" or just under 1/8"

I have not seen one ¼” off unless you're tires are out performing your suspension pulling your rear end to the left.

This could happen if something is bent on your rear suspension like bent lowering brackets... tires that out perform you suspension will physically yank the rear-end to the drive side a bit or far it can travel. I’ve seen 1/2” travel. So CHECK your rear suspension and make sure there are no missing bolts, nothing is broken or bent.

 

Give Jim a call he can explain thing far better then I and is a good source if useful info..... Jim Fay at 920.279.0875 8 am to 8 pm Central Time

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interesting, i noticed my rear wheels needs to go to the pass side about a 1/4" maybe 3/8", it was all just installed and laser track alligned. my 285/??/18 hancocks hook very well though. i also got info back from cs wheels. when all was said and done to your alcoas, how wide was the total rim? theyre telling me if i go 11.75" the total rim will be about 12.75"

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I never liked using offsets. Can one of you who are successfully running 12" rears without trouble give us an actual physical BACKSPACE measurement in inches?

 

Neema, with 61mm offset on a 12" wheel, your backspace is 8.4", correct?

 

 

Is Super Hiss correct that your wheels are wider than the advertised 12 inches?

 

Do the 2010 and earlier cars have more clearance than the 2011 and later cars as suggested earlier?

.

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Car Arrives this week. I will attempt to provide as many answers as I can, but hope some of the trailblazers in this thread can put a tape measure to their successfully wide wheels.

.

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We widened our Super Snake wheels to 11 3/4" and removed the bump stop. We were able to get the P-Zero's 335x30x20 on the rear with only a tiny bit of rubbing on the inside. The problem I had with the fit is that they stuck out of the fender (tire bulge) by a hair. I put the rear tires/wheels 10's on the front, didn't need to replace them. We ended up putting the P-Zero 305x35 on the rear, the 315's were too tall. Didn't see a reason to replace all four tires. The 305's look great and match the fronts perfectly as far as the way they fit on the wheel. We are happy with the tire/wheel size and also went with a 160 compound so the tires grip so much better.

 

I have the 335's for sale 160 compound, they only have 30 miles on them. Drove the car to a local show then back home. I am asking $350.00 per tire which is about half of what I paid for them. Please PM me if anyone is interested.

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  • 2 months later...

Michelin just released a new sticky 325 30 20 Pilot Sport Cup 2.

This tire will replace my Dunlop 325 30 20.

 

http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/category/ultra-high-performance-sport/pilot-sport-cup-2/tire-details

 

 

YEAH!!!

 

Another option for the 325/30 size!!

 

Finally!

 

I thought Dunlop was going to continue to be the only source for the 325/30/20 but it is nice to know that another vendor has now stepped up and added this size to their tire line-up.

 

 

I just glanced at the Michelin 325/30 specs, still the same 27.7" overall diameter as the original Super Snake rear 275/35 Pirelli P-Zero's.........Great!!

 

 

They are pricey, but they do look more agressive than the Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT's................and 180 TW vs. the 220 TW Dunlops << (If I remember correctly).

 

 

 

R

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I do not think you can run a 315 without trimming the bumpstop bracket. Especially since the 315 Nitto DR's are a 35 ratio which is 28.5" tall. A better 315 would be the Toyo 888's. They are a 315/30 which is only 27.6 tall. 28" is about max height unless they are skinny. If you do not want to trim the bracket you had better go 11" and run a 305.

Get the bump stop relocating kit.

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Robert, I was hoping you would notice my post. The Michelin 325's are still less expensive than the Dunlops and more grippy too.

 

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

Someone told me the 325/30 Dunlops had come down in price, from where they were at $800ea.? I think I heard $500-$600ea.? <<<<but I am not sure of this.........

 

 

 

R

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Robert, The Dunlops can be found better than in the $900 ea. range if you shop around. A few months back I found a new set (Dunlop 325) with stickers on Ebay for $500/pr + $80 shipping....a steal!

I am waiting to hear back from Discount Tire Direct regarding the M Cup 2 in 325.

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Robert, The Dunlops can be found better than in the $900 ea. range if you shop around. A few months back I found a new set (Dunlop 325) with stickers on Ebay for $500/pr + $80 shipping....a steal!

I am waiting to hear back from Discount Tire Direct regarding the M Cup 2 in 325.

 

 

I would think that the Cup 2 tires would be a better choice for overall performance especially in the higher hp Super Snake applications for sure. I will be looking that direction when it comes time to change tires.

 

 

 

 

R

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Thanks for posting this.

 

Someone told me the 325/30 Dunlops had come down in price, from where they were at $800ea.? I think I heard $500-$600ea.? <<<<but I am not sure of this.........

 

 

 

R

Robert, Dunlops are $525 ea at the Tire Rack and tread wear is 240 vs Michelin @ 180.

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Robert, Dunlops are $525 ea at the Tire Rack and tread wear is 240 vs Michelin @ 180.

 

 

Ok Cool! so the Michelins are much stickier, than the Dunlops.

 

Yes, I had heard that the Dunlops are less expensive now. $525 now vs. $800 originally is quite a difference, probably enough difference to also be able to buy a matching pair of matching 275/35's for the front.

 

Thanks

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Both are 325 30 20 and 27.7 tall. The Michelin sport Cup 2 specs the tread width 1/2" wider, we shall see when they arrive.

 

 

That is why I like the 325/30, it is the same 27.7" overall diameter as the 275/35 that is installed as part of the Super Snake build and from all outward appearances keeps my car looking as it did when it left Shelby Las Vegas.........except with wider Alcoa's and rubber on the rear.

 

 

 

R

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I ordered a pair of Sport Cup 2 in 325 30 20 today for $575 ea. Also, the Michelins are 5 pounds lighter ea than the Dunlops in 325.

I believe you have 11.75 inch wheels on the back? Please let me know how they fit, I currently have 11.75 inch rear wheel s with nitto nt05 315x35x20 they just fit in side the wheel well with a finger sized gap between the tire and the outer wheel well lip, no rubbing. I would like to go to a tire like the Sport cup. My car was lowered then lowered.

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Jim, my Boze Tach's were widened to 11.5". The 325 Sport Cup 2's have arrived I'll pick them up tomorrow. I stiil have a bit of life left in the Dunlop 325's. The Dunlops fit perfect on the 11.5"

 

 

I have seen the 325/30 Dunlops on an 11.5" rim, they look and fit great as shown below.

 

Picture026.jpg

 

^^^The problem with using these tires with widened Alcoa's is that the bulge of the 325/30 Dunlop on the 11.5" width will get out past the fender lip because of the Alcoa offset.......<<I think?? If it does not get too much on the bulge side of fitting, I wouldn't mind doing 11.5 or 11.75 Alcoa's on the rear of my car instead of 12".

 

 

 

R

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