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  • 3 weeks later...
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I have nitto nto5 315x20 on my SS rims. I put the rear rims on the front and sent the front 20xx9.5 wheels to Eric to have them widened to 20x11.75. Brought them back to the shop that removed the tires and stripped the rim down. He said "DAM these wheel required less weight then before they were widened" after Eric widened them one no longer require inner weights but the same exact amount of outer weight. the other wheel was not quite as good it required less inner weight and one less outter weight. Looks good people don't even notice - unless they get up close and inspect the wheels.

 

Eric is a one man shop and tends to get busy so be patiant its worth the wait

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My question after reading two hours of threads, will the nitto nt05 315/35/20 fit on the rear with eric vaugn widening to 11.75? I am prepared to modify the bump stop and shock covers. The wheels have been widened and are in transit.

 

Thank you in advance for your advice and reply.

 

2008 super snake with eighbach pro street suspension and Baer 6 piston calipers. upgrade all from SA LV

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My question after reading two hours of threads, will the nitto nt05 315/35/20 fit on the rear with eric vaugn widening to 11.75? I am prepared to modify the bump stop and shock covers. The wheels have been widened and are in transit.

 

Thank you in advance for your advice and reply.

 

2008 super snake with eighbach pro street suspension and Baer 6 piston calipers. upgrade all from SA LV

 

 

 

Here is my 2008 with the Eibach option and Baer 6 piston rears. The Alcoa's have been widened to 12" and the rear tires are 325/30's.............

 

 

011-4.jpg

 

The only "required" items that I had to remove were the Eibach rear shock boots and the rear brake ducts shown below.........

 

001-5.jpg

 

 

0012-3.jpg

 

 

On the front of my car are the original 10" rear Alcoa's with the 275/35 tire that matches the rear 325/30.

 

 

 

R

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My question after reading two hours of threads, will the nitto nt05 315/35/20 fit on the rear with eric vaugn widening to 11.75? I am prepared to modify the bump stop and shock covers. The wheels have been widened and are in transit.

 

Thank you in advance for your advice and reply.

 

2008 super snake with eighbach pro street suspension and Baer 6 piston calipers. upgrade all from SA LV

 

 

I am running the Nitto 315x20x35 on 20x 11.75 wheels widened by Eric on the rear on my car, the clearance between the wheel well inner lip and the tire is enough to slide my fat fingers between and that’s about it. I have a 07 convertible supper snake, it been lowered with springs, lowering brackets relocation brackets. I have watts fays 2 and relocation brackets for the bump stops. NO RUBBING...

 

But you can no longer run the rear cooling ducting it will rub on the inside of the wheel during hard cornering on a track. The car turn so hard the plastic duct rubs the inside corner of the wheel and contacts the wheel weights making what sounds like metal slapping against metal as you turn into the turn it get louder, then softer as you come out of the turn. Yet fays 2 keeps body level the whole time so watchers have no real idea how hard the car is really turning.

 

If your car is stock height with stock wheel, you have no need to worry about rubbing.

If you are lowered with stupid crazy RWHP like I am the nitto nto5 315 on 20x10 wheels will add a whole lot of grab power that can physically shift your rear end into the wheel well on the side that grabs causing tire rubbing, which the watts fays 2 and welded bracket will resolve allowing you to spin circles in either direction without any body roll. The watts fays2 will keep the body perfectly level during full out circles and hard tack cornering preventing tire to metal contact. You will be amazed on how hard you can turn with only finger tip clearance between your tire and wheel well.....

 

Keep in mind when you widen the wheel for the nitto 315 tire you will reduce the side wall on the nitto, less side wall less straight line traction. The other effect is, it WILL reduced the tire hop you get with the tall side walls during normal turning at normal freewqy speeds, I did not like it, it was the same as the undesired wheel hop of stock 07 gt500 as driven off the show room floor.

 

There is a balance between traction and cornering that is affected by widening the wheel, and only you can decide what that balance is. But the wider wheel will help make your cars weak point the tire and not the rear end. I started by putting the nitto nto5 315x20x35 tire the 20x10 inch wheel which improved my straight line traction to the point that I could no longer down shift on the freeway without instant tire grab that max my rev limiter as soon as I shifted (no more tire spin) and it bend my lowering bracket and kept pulling the rear end to the drivers side moving it just over 1/2 inch every time I took off. With Stock Springs moving a half inch may not be a issue but if you are lowered its serious rub time that may cut into the tire.

 

Bottom line, make sure your rearend/ suspension is solid or you will have problems. If you are lowered you will most likely need to eliminate body roll to prevent tire rub.

As far as the best wheel width for the nitto 315 tire; to mach the driving style you want call nitto they can better help you.

 

Some guys are running 20x12 which requires bump stop relocation and trimming the shock boot. Your pushing the limit running a 20x11.75 wheel which requires relocation brackets and leaves no room for error. I strongly recommend a watts unit, I have the Watts Fays 2; for 3 years now no issues. Hard corning looks as if the car is still going in a straight line. That Fay 2 unit has got to be taking one hell of a beating and it just keeps on going on down the road with no issues.

 

Long winded I know, hope this helps.

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Thank you JimC, I-am new to Watts link but i will do some research and learn more about it. Not sure what SA LV has installed on my super snake. My goal is to achieve more forward bite when accelerating and having fun on back roads and taking advantage of unsuspecting corvettes.

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JimC,

 

Are you using stock bumpstops with the relocation brackets?

 

Yes and they bottom out on the smallest bump in the road usless you do as someone posted cut the top off so that the suspension has a chance to work.

 

Thank you JimC, I-am new to Watts link but i will do some research and learn more about it. Not sure what SA LV has installed on my super snake. My goal is to achieve more forward bite when accelerating and having fun on back roads and taking advantage of unsuspecting corvettes.

 

You should have a Shelby build list that will list everything they installed on your car.

The watts systems were add to the Shelby line up after the 2010 Shelby Bash so you may not have one. Shelby now stocks a couple watts units one of them is Fays2. You can go to Jim Fays directly if you prefer he is great with his follow up support when you call you talk to him. There are a few models you can get I'd think with Fays 2 or the BMR ar the better of them all depending on driving preference.

 

I know this thread is long but there are a lot of folks smarter then I who have contributed some very useful insight that will save you a lot of time money and head aches, read - read and re read.

 

You won't be sorry having Eric widen your wheels.

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Here are a few pics to give you an idea of what the tires look like on different size wheels.

275 tires on stock 20x10 wheels

 

 

315 on stock 20x10 wheels with stock gt500 springs for clearance on rear and FRRP lowered spring on front.

315 on 20x10.jpg

 

315 on 20x11.75 wheels with Lowered FFRP spring from Shelby and Watts Fays2

315 on 20x11.75 1.JPG

315 on 20x11.75.jpg

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RobertM, thank yo for the pics they look fantastic, what make and model of tire and do the stick better than the Pzeros?

 

^^Thanks!

 

I have Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT's on all four corners, 275/35 front, 325/30 rear. Yes, upgrading from the 275/35 P Zero rear tires to a 325/30 gained me a good amount of traction. The 325/30 is exactly the same 27.7" overall diameter as the 275/35 that it replaced. Downside..........only Dunlop makes the 325/30 size, and they are Very Proud of these tires!

 

 

R

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My SS conversion was done August 2011. Are those 315's Nitto'S?

 

 

Nitto NT05 315x20x35

 

^^Thanks!

 

I have Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT's on all four corners, 275/35 front, 325/30 rear. Yes, upgrading from the 275/35 P Zero rear tires to a 325/30 gained me a good amount of traction. The 325/30 is exactly the same 27.7" overall diameter as the 275/35 that it replaced. Downside..........only Dunlop makes the 325/30 size, and they are Very Proud of these tires!

 

 

R

 

Dunlop are good tires.

I had P Zero and they were great on the corners never slid out until they wore out, but they had NO straight line traction. They were great for repaving the black tops!!!

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  • 3 months later...

The offset for the rears is 61mm, correct?

What is the offset for the front wheels?

 

+1...............Yes, more front details.

 

CC plates?

 

 

 

R

 

What size tire do you have on the front? 285/35 ZR20 on a 10" rim? What did you do to get them to fit if they are 285s?

 

 

sorry all for the delayed response. i don't check back here too often.

 

the tire size up front is the 285/35/20 on a 10" wide wheel with +33 offset. the rear is a 315/30/20 on a 12" wheel with +61 offset. the front fits great with a little camber (1.7° up front), which is what i wanted to run on this car as it is. had I gone with a more conservative offset (the wheel has et33 offset), i could have run less. the suspension i use has adjustable camber plates (kw clubsports). the only reason I went so aggressive on the front offset is for a little extra clearance at full lock with brake ducts. i used to have a 19x10" et43 wheel with a 15mm spacer (effectively being +28 offset) that still fit just fine up front, but the tire was a slightly smaller overall diameter. the nice thing about a custom wheel company is that you can iron out little quirks like this. the pad on the back of the hub/center of the wheel (where it bolts to the hub of the car) has 7mm of material that can be safely shaved off, so if i wanted to make the wheel a little less conservative and go with some roush steering limiters, that's an open avenue.

 

i'd like to point out that the 12" wheel with the toyo r888 315s tend to rub more and more as you lower ride height in the rear. my car has coilovers, so curiosity bit me and i cranked it down to see what it looked like. i liked the look, but it rubbed on the inside of the wheel wells when the axle articulated and rode like crap (expected). 3mm spacers didn't fix the rub completely and also introduced a little rub on the lips of the fenders, so i deemed the "slammed" look out of the question. i like functional suspension geometry anyways--this was just to see what the car would look like. as soon as these toyos wear out, i'll throw 335s on the rear and see if i can raise the ride height a little bit to help stuff it in the fender.

 

below are pictures of different ride heights. you can see how close the tire gets to the fender when its all the way down.

 

rear all the way down

IMG_2159.jpg

 

 

raised back up a little

 

IMG_3515.jpg

 

IMG_3519.jpg

 

IMG_3520.jpg

 

here's how the front wheels tuck into the fender with a little camber.

IMG_3523.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

sorry for the long post. hope this helps!

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sorry all for the delayed response. i don't check back here too often.

 

the tire size up front is the 285/35/20 on a 10" wide wheel with +33 offset. the rear is a 315/30/20 on a 12" wheel with +61 offset. the front fits great with a little camber (1.7° up front), which is what i wanted to run on this car as it is. had I gone with a more conservative offset (the wheel has et33 offset), i could have run less. the suspension i use has adjustable camber plates (kw clubsports). the only reason I went so aggressive on the front offset is for a little extra clearance at full lock with brake ducts. i used to have a 19x10" et43 wheel with a 15mm spacer (effectively being +28 offset) that still fit just fine up front, but the tire was a slightly smaller overall diameter. the nice thing about a custom wheel company is that you can iron out little quirks like this. the pad on the back of the hub/center of the wheel (where it bolts to the hub of the car) has 7mm of material that can be safely shaved off, so if i wanted to make the wheel a little less conservative and go with some roush steering limiters, that's an open avenue.

 

i'd like to point out that the 12" wheel with the toyo r888 315s tend to rub more and more as you lower ride height in the rear. my car has coilovers, so curiosity bit me and i cranked it down to see what it looked like. i liked the look, but it rubbed on the inside of the wheel wells when the axle articulated and rode like crap (expected). 3mm spacers didn't fix the rub completely and also introduced a little rub on the lips of the fenders, so i deemed the "slammed" look out of the question. i like functional suspension geometry anyways--this was just to see what the car would look like. as soon as these toyos wear out, i'll throw 335s on the rear and see if i can raise the ride height a little bit to help stuff it in the fender.

 

below are pictures of different ride heights. you can see how close the tire gets to the fender when its all the way down.

 

rear all the way down

IMG_2159.jpg

 

 

raised back up a little

 

IMG_3515.jpg

 

IMG_3519.jpg

 

IMG_3520.jpg

 

here's how the front wheels tuck into the fender with a little camber.

IMG_3523.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

sorry for the long post. hope this helps!

 

 

Your car looks good!

 

 

Thanks for info. and pictures.

 

 

 

R

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  • 3 weeks later...

are the nitto nt05 315/35/20 that everyone is refering to, are they the R version which are the drag radial?

 

I am asking this because i would like to put them on my 11.75 alcoa with frpp lowering springs and bumps stops removed and want to know if they are going to rubb up top or anywhere else. the R version is very a tall tire compared to stock ride hieght

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are the nitto nt05 315/35/20 that everyone is refering to, are they the R version which are the drag radial?

 

I am asking this because i would like to put them on my 11.75 alcoa with frpp lowering springs and bumps stops removed and want to know if they are going to rubb up top or anywhere else. the R version is very a tall tire compared to stock ride hieght

 

 

 

 

I think they are the Toyo R888's shown in the link below........

 

http://toyotires.com/tires/competition-tires

 

 

 

 

 

R

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From what I have heard the NTO5 drag version does not do well on the street,

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  • 6 months later...

since i finally read every page within this topic... i see this dates back to 2010. all those original player, i.e. lee and other super snake owner who went 11.75" or 12" how are the cars now? any regrets or advise? i didnt know crap about the watts link but ill get griggs in the future along with sub frame connectors once its all actually lined up. i despise know that a corvet can win only due to aero dynamics and rear tire grip. at first i thought of maybe the widdening kit for the back but thats alot and youd have to have a deep dish wheel for that. just checking on things before i send 9" or 10" cs40s to vaughn for 11.75" on black wheels... if i can get to atleast 325 id be happy

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since i finally read every page within this topic... i see this dates back to 2010. all those original player, i.e. lee and other super snake owner who went 11.75" or 12" how are the cars now? any regrets or advise? i didnt know crap about the watts link but ill get griggs in the future along with sub frame connectors once its all actually lined up. i despise know that a corvet can win only due to aero dynamics and rear tire grip. at first i thought of maybe the widdening kit for the back but thats alot and youd have to have a deep dish wheel for that. just checking on things before i send 9" or 10" cs40s to vaughn for 11.75" on black wheels... if i can get to atleast 325 id be happy

Regrets yes an no, but I'm a perfectionist and nothing is ever perfect. Do my 11.75 x 20 super snake wheels that were widened by Van with 315x35x20 tires tires on them work - Yes they do.

Have I had and rubbing issues - No I have not.

Have I driven the car hard - yes I have.

 

Is there a trade off - yes there is.

When you go to a 11.75 or 12 inch you're choice of tire is limited. Brand and type tires are not a plenty when you are looking for a large tire. And you are stuck with the limited selection of tires you have locked yourself into.

As long as you know what you want you should not regret your choice.

If I were to do it again the only thing I would have done different would have been to get a second set of rear wheels. Other then that my 11.75x 20 are still issue free. Just follow the recommendations of those that paved the way.

Jim

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i hear you, im keeping the oem wheels, i guess they took yours when they converted it. heres what i think you guys might have done wrong. go 11.5" you can fit tires 305-335 on there ranging from the mid 300$- those costly dunlaps you guys talked about. i plan to do this and if youre still self conscious about the shocks not being covered, im sure zip ties, a rubber ribbed covereing could fix that.

 

thoughts???

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i hear you, im keeping the oem wheels, i guess they took yours when they converted it. heres what i think you guys might have done wrong. go 11.5" you can fit tires 305-335 on there ranging from the mid 300$- those costly dunlaps you guys talked about. i plan to do this and if youre still self conscious about the shocks not being covered, im sure zip ties, a rubber ribbed covereing could fix that.

 

thoughts???

 

If I were to do it again, I would probably go 11.75 instead of 12", not because of rubbing, but because a slight more tire bulge would be acceptable, it would only be about 1/8" additional bulge with my 325's but it would still look ok.

 

If a 11.5 Alcoa were to be used with a 325, the bulge would get out beyond the rear fender, with a 335 it would be even more..........I had a 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 on my 12's and the bulge was not the look I wanted. If I would have done 11.5 instead the bulge would have been 1/4" more, that would really have looked "fat/too large for the rim" because of the amount it would have stuck out beyond the fender lip.

 

Here is the 335/30 on a 12"..................

 

Picture1960.jpg

 

If this same tire were installed on a 11.5" Alcoa, the sidewall would stick out 1/4" more than it is already sticking out. To me that is too much already since it is well beyond the fender lip to the point of the tread getting out past the lip, not just the sidewall..........

 

 

R

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point taken, makes sense. my cars done tomorrow at at the shop but i stopped over there with a tape measure, i dont see how the shock cover or the bump stop area should really effect the wheel or tire. but then again ive always been a have to see it learner. i guess ill take youre advise and go with a 11.75" i just have to figure out why the cs40 20x10 wheels say rear only on the carrol shelby site. the off sets of the cs40 front are +30 and rears are +45. with your experience do i sound ok with those measurements?

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point taken, makes sense. my cars done tomorrow at at the shop but i stopped over there with a tape measure, i dont see how the shock cover or the bump stop area should really effect the wheel or tire. but then again ive always been a have to see it learner. i guess ill take youre advise and go with a 11.75" i just have to figure out why the cs40 20x10 wheels say rear only on the carrol shelby site. the off sets of the cs40 front are +30 and rears are +45. with your experience do i sound ok with those measurements?

 

 

I don't know much about the CS40's and the +30 and +45 doesn't sound like numbers I have heard as it relates to the 9" and 10" Alcoa wheels, so I would not be the one to advise you on CS40 widening or fitment.

 

 

 

R

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To expand on Roberts point,

 

In the first photo my 315x35x20 tires are on the stock 10x20 wheels notice how tire protrude out of the wheel well, which would not be an issue if the tire (sidewall) wasn't so tall, this could cause rubbing under the wrong conditions....

 

Now look at the second & third photos, the same tire mounted on the widened 11.75x20 wheel, zero issues under extreme cornering conditions. The tire fits inside the wheel well and is not as tall. Also notice there is not much space between the tire and the inside edge of the wheel well.

Lake Tahoe  Hood Lights.jpg

20121020_120521.jpg

20.jpg

Lake Tahoe  Hood Lights.jpg

20121020_120521.jpg

20.jpg

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makes sense. new project for me i suppose to figure out the off sets of the cs40s. i emailed the shelby wheel site for help well see. ill go to 11.75. i like how you had to show off the winning photos of your ss and the car show :)

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Those were the only/ best photos I had to point out the difference..... How did you know I won, the photo of my car with the trophy was too big to post, were yo at that car show?


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To expand on Roberts point,

 

In the first photo my 315x35x20 tires are on the stock 10x20 wheels notice how tire protrude out of the wheel well, which would not be an issue if the tire (sidewall) wasn't so tall, this could cause rubbing under the wrong conditions....

 

Now look at the second & third photos, the same tire mounted on the widened 11.75x20 wheel, zero issues under extreme cornering conditions. The tire fits inside the wheel well and is not as tall. Also notice there is not much space between the tire and the inside edge of the wheel well.

 

 

Jim - That looks Nice!!

 

 

 

R

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