bigger rear tires

[breoland]

so whats the verdict here, 12in widen by 2in will do the trick, 335/30 and a 1/8 spacer? no bumpstop removal or dust boot unless suspension is completely extended like on a lift.

I think i am getting closer to doing this just want to know the avail of the michelen tires

 

dsg if you are willing to sell the rears alone, lets talk maybe we can work something out, i just noticed so cal is a lil to far

[dbackg]

SS Alcoas back from Eric Vaughn @ www.ericvaughnmachine.com, located in Monrovia, California.

 

11.75" WOW! They look amazing.

 

Michelin PS2's 335/30's are installed on the wheel @ the tire shop.

 

Also ordered 275/35 Nitto Invo's for the fronts.

 

The reason I opted for Eric Vaughn, two reasons.

 

He has been doing this for 30+ years and comes highly recommended.

 

He does not add material to make the wheel wider, therefore, there is only one weld bead. He actually cuts your rim and adds another backside from another wheel he modified. Since he has been doing this for 30+ years, he has a tremendous amount excess inventory.

 

Turn around. 3-4 weeks.

Cost $300 per wheel plus shipping.

Wheels/Tires will be installed on my girl tomorrow @ the alignment shop.

Will post pics in a few. I have to figure how to resize.

[Lee N.]

so whats the verdict here, 12in widen by 2in will do the trick, 335/30 and a 1/8 spacer? no bumpstop removal or dust boot unless suspension is completely extended like on a lift.

I think i am getting closer to doing this just want to know the avail of the michelen tires

 

dsg if you are willing to sell the rears alone, lets talk maybe we can work something out, i just noticed so cal is a lil to far

 

 

I run the 12's with a 335. Mine hit the dust covers on compression so I had to remove them. They also hit the bumpstop bracket, but it was at full flex so I cut them just to be safe. I am running 1/8 spacers just for a little extra clearance.

[Robert M]

so whats the verdict here, 12in widen by 2in will do the trick, 335/30 and a 1/8 spacer? no bumpstop removal or dust boot unless suspension is completely extended like on a lift.

I think i am getting closer to doing this just want to know the avail of the michelen tires

 

dsg if you are willing to sell the rears alone, lets talk maybe we can work something out, i just noticed so cal is a lil to far

 

 

 

I did 12" like Lee N. The first contact point was the rear brake ducts and then the rear shock boots. This was while the tire/wheel was in the normal position. When partially compressing my suspension one side at a time, I had no contact with the bumpstop bracket on either side, that is why I decided to leave them in place. With partial compression I did notice slight contact with the sound deadener, so I added the 1/8" spacers on each side. That seemed to do the trick for my driving conditions locally including my 45 degree incline driveway.

 

and now to throw the other "wide tire option" into the discussion, the installed 325/30 Sport Maxx GT @27.7" tall.

 

 

This is on my 12" Alcoa without any spacers. I will be checking clearance over the next couple of days.

 

 

 

 

R

[breoland]

thanks for all the input. I hope michelin still continues to make the 335/30

[JimC]

 

Ok I have read this from beginning to end.

 

I have the FRRP suspension with a Watts linkage system.

 

I installed the nitto 315x35x20 on the stock 20x10 SS rim and had to put the stock GT500 rear springs back on for height clearance, after that no issues.

 

I wanted to see how the tire handled before I widen the wheels.

Here are the problems I found.

1. regardless of what I did I could no longer keep the rear-end aligned. Every time I took off in a slightly spirited fashion, the rear-end shifted ½ inch to the right. Every time no exception. This is why I had to put the stock rear springs on.

2. The taller side wall flexed more then I liked.

 

Traction was Great!!!

I went back to 275x35x20 in the rear put the FRPP springs back on, re-aligned the read and no problem regardless of how hard I take off.

 

Am I missing something?

I would like to widen the wheel and re-install the nitto 315x35x20 tires and run a the 275x35x20 up front.

 

The reasons for widening the wheels is to reduce the side wall height, to reduce the sidewall flex, and maintain the lower profile.

If I am reading right, a 315x35x20 tire will fit on an 11.5 or 11/75 wheel but both will require wheel well modifications so why not go with the 11.75

 

Has anyone else had problems with the rear-end shifting?

Any suggestions?

[03KBSonicBlue]

About to pull the trigger on a set of alcoa's. Just wondering if I could run a 305/35/20 nitto 555r out back? Car is at stock ride height and I don't plan on lowering. If the tires will fit what else will I need to make them work- adjustable pan hard bar?

 

Thanks

Justin

[03 DSG Snake]

About to pull the trigger on a set of alcoa's. Just wondering if I could run a 305/35/20 nitto 555r out back? Car is at stock ride height and I don't plan on lowering. If the tires will fit what else will I need to make them work- adjustable pan hard bar?

 

Thanks

Justin

 

 

If youre not lowered it should work if you center with a panhard bar.

 

I ran that size with FRPP springs for 2 years with minimal rubbing.

[Tob]

SVT PP 20" Wheels Widened by Weld Craft Wheels. They added 2" to the inside of the wheel. I Installed Nitto NT05R 315/35/20. I had to remove bump stops and use 1/8" spacer. My Adjustable panhard

will be in this week so I can center rear end better. Shock Boots touches when on lift.

Defever, do you have any other shots of the wheels post widening either on the car or before you mounted the tires?

 

Tob

[dbackg]

 

I have the FRRP suspension with a Watts linkage system.

 

I installed the nitto 315x35x20 on the stock 20x10 SS rim and had to put the stock GT500 rear springs back on for height clearance, after that no issues.

I went back to 275x35x20 in the rear put the FRPP springs back on, re-aligned the read and no problem regardless of how hard I take off.

 

Am I missing something?

I would like to widen the wheel and re-install the nitto 315x35x20 tires and run a the 275x35x20 up front.

 

The reasons for widening the wheels is to reduce the side wall height, to reduce the sidewall flex, and maintain the lower profile.

If I am reading right, a 315x35x20 tire will fit on an 11.5 or 11/75 wheel but both will require wheel well modifications so why not go with the 11.75

 

Has anyone else had problems with the rear-end shifting?

Any suggestions?

 

 

How does your rear-end shift with a watts link? That is really perplexing?

 

I have the SS/BMR adjustable panhard and I am considering the watts link.

 

What else do you have for rear end suspension components?

[03 DSG Snake]

 

Ok I have read this from beginning to end.

 

I have the FRRP suspension with a Watts linkage system.

 

I installed the nitto 315x35x20 on the stock 20x10 SS rim and had to put the stock GT500 rear springs back on for height clearance, after that no issues.

 

I wanted to see how the tire handled before I widen the wheels.

Here are the problems I found.

1. regardless of what I did I could no longer keep the rear-end aligned. Every time I took off in a slightly spirited fashion, the rear-end shifted ½ inch to the right. Every time no exception. This is why I had to put the stock rear springs on.

2. The taller side wall flexed more then I liked.

 

Traction was Great!!!

I went back to 275x35x20 in the rear put the FRPP springs back on, re-aligned the read and no problem regardless of how hard I take off.

 

Am I missing something?

I would like to widen the wheel and re-install the nitto 315x35x20 tires and run a the 275x35x20 up front.

 

The reasons for widening the wheels is to reduce the side wall height, to reduce the sidewall flex, and maintain the lower profile.

If I am reading right, a 315x35x20 tire will fit on an 11.5 or 11/75 wheel but both will require wheel well modifications so why not go with the 11.75

 

Has anyone else had problems with the rear-end shifting?

Any suggestions?

 

 

315 definitely too wide for the 20x10. I ran the 305/35/20 555R with minimal rubbing, but still had some on full compression.

 

275/35/20 will work on the front.

[JimC]

315 definitely too wide for the 20x10. I ran the 305/35/20 555R with minimal rubbing, but still had some on full compression.

 

275/35/20 will work on the front.

 

 

 

Thank you for the info.

Info for consideration.

I have Nittos NTO5 315x35x20 tires.

They did fit and worked only with the stock GT500 springs, and the Watts Fays2 system to prevent body roll.

With this set up the tires fit and there is/ was no contact.

I tested it in full hard turn circles to the right and left under throttle. No body-roll no rubbing no modification to the wheel wells.

 

I took them off for three reasons.

1. My car is lowered using the FRPP suspension package and putting the stock springs back on defeated the purpose of lowering the car.

2. There was too much sidewall and I could feel the sidewall flex when cornering, I did not like it, the car felt like it was hopping around corners.

3. The rear-end kept moving to the left, too much traction improvement from the tires ,and I wanted to correct this.

 

It looks like the rear-end moving part will be resolved. If 275x35x20 tires will fit correctly on the front 20x9.5 wheel and work on the front then all that is left is to decide how wide do I go. Do I go for 11.5 or 11.75-inch rear wheel?

 

Question, will the 275x35x20 tires fit the 20x9.5 wheel correctly or are you leaving the tires on the 20x10 wheels and moving the 20x10 wheel/ tire to the front?

[JimC]

How does your rear-end shift with a watts link? That is really perplexing?

 

I have the SS/BMR adjustable panhard and I am considering the watts link.

 

What else do you have for rear end suspension components?

 

 

 

Good consideration- choice.

 

I took the car to David's Racing they are looking into it.

So far, they said that they would like to lower the car one notch, and re-set the alignment.

He went to L.V. Speedway this weekend, and will start on the car Tuesday.

 

From what it sounds like.

When I installed the watts we had a hard time fighting angles, the curved arm needed for the convertible that goes over the frame brace limits the positioning of the arms due to the confined area.

If I understand him correctly moving the center, bolt upwards one notch to lower the car may do the trick.

 

For anyone wanting to install a watts system here is a suggestion.

Put the car on wheel stands that raise the wheel 18 inches off the ground. I didn't have that when I installed the system. So I had to raise the car on a lift install the system then lower the car so the weigh was on the wheels and suck in my fat gut and slide under the car to aligne and set it. Barely enough room to get the job done.<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"><BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

 

With the set up Mike is using the car weight is on the wheels (18 inches off the ground), there is plenty of room to clearly see and work. You get a better perspective when you can clearly see the whole set up from under the car instead of part of it depending on what side of the car you are under.

 

 

May be a case of, I did not having the right tools to do the job right.

That is all I know for now.

 

Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace .

 

BMR Fabrication Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets

 

BMR Fabrication Upper Control Arm Mount

 

BMR Fabrication Adjustable Upper Control Arm

 

Evolution Billet Lower Control Arms with Poly Bushings

 

Fay’s 3-Watts System

[dbackg]

Good consideration- choice.

 

I took the car to David's Racing they are looking into it.

So far, they said that they would like to lower the car one notch, and re-set the alignment.

He went to L.V. Speedway this weekend, and will start on the car Tuesday.

 

From what it sounds like.

When I installed the watts we had a hard time fighting angles, the curved arm needed for the convertible that goes over the frame brace limits the positioning of the arms due to the confined area.

If I understand him correctly moving the center, bolt upwards one notch to lower the car may do the trick.

 

For anyone wanting to install a watts system here is a suggestion.

Put the car on wheel stands that raise the wheel 18 inches off the ground. I didn't have that when I installed the system. So I had to raise the car on a lift install the system then lower the car so the weigh was on the wheels and suck in my fat gut and slide under the car to aligne and set it. Barely enough room to get the job done.<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"><BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

 

With the set up Mike is using the car weight is on the wheels (18 inches off the ground), there is plenty of room to clearly see and work. You get a better perspective when you can clearly see the whole set up from under the car instead of part of it depending on what side of the car you are under.

 

 

May be a case of, I did not having the right tools to do the job right.

That is all I know for now.

 

Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace

 

BMR Fabrication Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets

 

BMR Fabrication Upper Control Arm Mount

 

BMR Fabrication Adjustable Upper Control Arm

 

Evolution Billet Lower Control Arms with Poly Bushings

 

Fay's 3-Watts System

 

 

Great feedback Jim. Thank you.

 

I too have a black SS vert.

 

My current suspension setup.

 

Installed:

1. Steeda Rear LCA's: Part # 555-4406: Billet Rear Control Arms - Spherical Bearings

2. Carriage House Engineering (CHE) LCA relocation brackets: Part # CHE1L

3. Steeda adjustable UCA

4. Maxium Motorsports/Shelby Caster Camber Plate Kit

5. H&R Front & Rear sway bars: Front: Part # 70655: 36MM, Rear: Part # 71655: 26MM

6. Tokico D-Spec complete strut/shock kit: Part # DSP-12

7. FRPP SVT/GT500 Strut Tower Brace: FRPP Part # M-20201-C

8. Shelby/BMR SS adjustable panhard: Part # PHR006 - Shelby part # Z25-S5MA-4264-A

9. FRPP FR3 lowering springs: FRPP Part # M-5300-L

 

My final three todo list suspension parts for me:

1. Billet Front Sway bar mounts

2. Front Sway Bar End links

3. Shelby Billet Watts link

 

 

Installing these soon:

Billet Front Swaybar Mounts: Steeda Part # 555-8113

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

Installing these soon:

Front Sway Bar End links: 7075-T6 billet = Black anodized with laser etched CS logo

Shelby/Scott Drake: Part #: 5S3Z-5A486-R

http://stang-aholics...ROD%20ENDS.aspx

 

You can only get these end links through Stang-aholics: phone order only: must speak to Ryan.

 

Scott Drake makes them too, however, they are anodized "RED" with Scott Drake laser etched logo

 

*** Do you have any pics of your [Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace] installed on your vert? ***

[Robert M]

Question, will the 275x35x20 tires fit the 20x9.5 wheel correctly or are you leaving the tires on the 20x10 wheels and moving the 20x10 wheel/ tire to the front?

 

 

If you are asking about the Alcoa's, the front width is 9", not 9.5.

 

Yes the 275/35/20 does fit the 9" Alcoa without a flappy looking sidewall.

 

This is a Michelin Pilot Sport PS2, other 275/35's may fit differently................

 

 

Here is a rear 10" Alcoa with the original 275/35/20 Pirelli P Zero moved to the front.

 

 

For some, keeping the wider 10" Alcoa's for the front and widening the narrower 9's for the rear may be a better option.

 

R

[JimC]

Thanks Robert,

When you say "For some, keeping the wider 10" Alcoa's for the front and widening the narrower 9's for the rear may be a better option".

 

Will the 10 improve handling and cornering? or is it for curb appeal?

 

My goal is more towards safety, stability & handling, not curb appeal. However, if I can get the curb appeal as well , I'll gladly take it.

[JimC]

Great feedback Jim. Thank you.

 

I too have a black SS vert.

 

My current suspension setup.

 

Installed:

1. Steeda Rear LCA's: Part # 555-4406: Billet Rear Control Arms - Spherical Bearings

2. Carriage House Engineering (CHE) LCA relocation brackets: Part # CHE1L

3. Steeda adjustable UCA

4. Maxium Motorsports/Shelby Caster Camber Plate Kit

5. H&R Front & Rear sway bars: Front: Part # 70655: 36MM, Rear: Part # 71655: 26MM

6. Tokico D-Spec complete strut/shock kit: Part # DSP-12

7. FRPP SVT/GT500 Strut Tower Brace: FRPP Part # M-20201-C

8. Shelby/BMR SS adjustable panhard: Part # PHR006 - Shelby part # Z25-S5MA-4264-A

9. FRPP FR3 lowering springs: FRPP Part # M-5300-L

 

My final three todo list suspension parts for me:

1. Billet Front Sway bar mounts

2. Front Sway Bar End links

3. Shelby Billet Watts link

 

 

Installing these soon:

Billet Front Swaybar Mounts: Steeda Part # 555-8113

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

Installing these soon:

Front Sway Bar End links: 7075-T6 billet = Black anodized with laser etched CS logo

Shelby/Scott Drake: Part #: 5S3Z-5A486-R

http://stang-aholics...ROD%20ENDS.aspx

 

You can only get these end links through Stang-aholics: phone order only: must speak to Ryan.

 

Scott Drake makes them too, however, they are anodized "RED" with Scott Drake laser etched logo

 

*** Do you have any pics of your [Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace] installed on your vert? ***

 

 

You will notice an improvement after you install the watts system.

Another thing to keep in mind, with all the mods we put on our cars; some of them change the dynamics which may require setting up the system a bit differently then what the instruction state.

 

I started to have doubts about the watts system because of the rear-end shifting,

Jim Fays has been there helping all the way, but because of all the mods on the car I think having someone who knows the dynamics of how the watts system's work, under the car for a visual so they can make the adjustments accordingly, is the way to go.

 

I feel confident that David's racing will get it squared away correctly; Mikes father installed Watts systems on the cars he raced and know the system quite well.

Stay tuned give me a couple weeks (I will need to do some test-driving) and I will let you know what the finial result is.

[Robert M]

Thanks Robert,

When you say "For some, keeping the wider 10" Alcoa's for the front and widening the narrower 9's for the rear may be a better option".

 

Will the 10 improve handling and cornering? or is it for curb appeal?

 

My goal is more towards safety, stability & handling, not curb appeal. However, if I can get the curb appeal as well , I'll gladly take it.

 

 

If I can get more tire/tread surface, foot print in contact with the road, it should benefit the handling. If you look at the 10" Alcoa pictures, that 275/35/20 Pirelli P Zero specs at 9.7" tread surface not including the sidewall bulge, and there is room for just a little more tire on the rim without getting flabby looking. The Dunlop 275/35/20 specs at 10.1 tread surface. It won't be much more tread, but it may fill out that 10" Alcoa just a little bit better, add a small amount of grip, and still fit the front wheel well area.

 

My tire guy told me my 275/35 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's are supposed to be in Thurs. It has cost me two weeks on this project just to save shipping (approx. $50-$60) on two tires. Maybe I should have just paid the shipping!!!

 

My goal is to see what options are reality with these Alcoas. It seems like the focus has been on the rear, but there are also options for the front that have not been explored on these nose-heavy cars.<<All the while keeping the Alcoa/Super Snake look intact.

 

If the 275/35 Sport Maxx fits on the 9" Alcoa correctly, I will use them. I am just exploring the options, and I know that the 10's do fit nicely on the front. I also keep in mind that the OEM rim size was a 9.5, so if a 10" Alcoa will work, that would be nice.

 

R

[JimC]

Sounds Good Robert,

 

I will be talking to Mike today to go over the suspension needs, if the rear wheels will yield the desired reults then its a done deal.

Thanks

[knownukes]

315 definitely too wide for the 20x10. I ran the 305/35/20 555R with minimal rubbing, but still had some on full compression.

 

275/35/20 will work on the front.

 

[JimC]

My goal is to see what options are reality with these Alcoas. It seems like the focus has been on the rear, but there are also options for the front that have not been explored on these nose-heavy cars.<<All the while keeping the Alcoa/Super Snake look intact.

 

R

 

 

[qoute]

03 DSG Snake, on 02 April 2011 - 06:35 PM, said:

 

315 definitely too wide for the 20x10. I ran the 305/35/20 555R with minimal rubbing, but still had some on full compression.

 

275/35/20 will work on the front.

 

[/qoute]

 

 

Sounds Good Robert,

 

I will be talking to Mike today to go over the suspension needs, if the rear wheels will yield the desired reults then its a done deal.

Thanks

 

 

Mike finished my car and I got my car back just in time for the ran.....

 

Here is what was done to square up the rear-end to keep it centered.

It seems I tweaked the left side-relocation bracket, which threw everything out of whack. After they correcting it, stronger bolts and a re-weld should solve that problem. From there the watts system was reset and aligned.

 

What a difference in adjustment position. The repairs provided the room needed to better adjust the watts system. The car stance has change to the point that I had to remove the rear cooling ducts.

I had all ready made a set of custom mounting plate to allow me to use them with all the changes I had made.

 

Now I would need to remake a new set and my understanding is that when I widen my wheels nothing I do will allow me to run the stock ducts so I will start work on a new custom set of rear ducts.

 

Mike also said that the 10x20 wheels the 275x35x20 tire would work but would be tight and might not accommodate future modification or a set of good race tires.

For now, the plan is to keep the front 9x20 wheel up front and widen the rears to either 11.5 or 11.75.

It may all boil down to what race tire combination will fit.

 

The good news is with limited testing the rear end is holding up and staying centered. I need time to get to a track to really put the peddle to the metal.

[dbackg]

Great info Jim.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

I am ordering my watts link tomorrow.

 

Do you have any pics of your [Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace] installed on your vert? What brand/part #'s?

I am interested in additional suspension support.

[JimC]

Great info Jim.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

I am ordering my watts link tomorrow.

 

Do you have any pics of your [Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace] installed on your vert? What brand/part #'s?

I am interested in additional suspension support.

 

 

All I have I have is a pic of the watts set up prior to the fix.

My part came form Evolution Performance. I called explained what my goals were we talked, I ordered the reccomended parts. According to Mike, Fred did me right, when I asked what I should change he siad all I need is a set of REAL TiRES,

[Robert M]

 

I am ordering my watts link tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Which Watts are you going with Van? Alloy or Steel?

 

R

[dbackg]

Hello Robert.

 

I am ordering the the SHELBY billet one.

 

However, my name is Greg and not Van. lol

 

BTW, I am getting very little tire rub on the fender lip, some tire residue.

 

Also, I just installed the CHE Carriage House Engineering (CHE)

K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters Part # CHE7LA = Nice part, easy install. I really like it.

http://www.cheperfor...ie/prod-208.htm

Also, are you or anybody running the stock UCA?

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, my stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential has failed and needs to be replaced.

I ordered the Prothane bushing, from CJ Pony.

Prothane Part Number: 6-315 = Axle Side Kit

Ford replacement part # 5A638

 

It is manufactured by Prothane.

http://www.cjponypar...5-2011/p/CAB46/

[Robert M]

Hello Robert.

 

I am ordering the the SHELBY billet one.

 

However, my name is Greg and not Van. lol

 

BTW, I am getting very little tire rub on the fender lip, some tire residue.

 

Also, I just installed the CHE Carriage House Engineering (CHE)

K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters Part # CHE7LA = Nice part, easy install. I really like it.

http://www.cheperfor...ie/prod-208.htm

Also, are you or anybody running the stock UCA?

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, I smoked the stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential.

I ordered the Ford Racing one from CJ Pony. part # M-5638-R

http://www.cjponypar...-2009/p/M5638R/

 

 

 

Sorry Greg.

 

Let me/us know how the Watts install goes. I like to look of that Billet unit!!

 

R

[JimC]

Hello Robert.

 

I am ordering the the SHELBY billet one.

 

However, my name is Greg and not Van. lol

 

BTW, I am getting very little tire rub on the fender lip, some tire residue.

 

Also, I just installed the CHE Carriage House Engineering (CHE)

K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters Part # CHE7LA = Nice part, easy install. I really like it.

http://www.cheperfor...ie/prod-208.htm

Also, are you or anybody running the stock UCA?

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, I smoked the stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential.

I ordered the Ford Racing one from CJ Pony. part # M-5638-R

http://www.cjponypar...-2009/p/M5638R/

 

 

Greg,

Intersection that you changed out the K-member Brace and the Front Sway Bar End Links, but not the k-member it self; is it not necessary with the new brace?

 

 

Jm

[dbackg]

Jim,

 

I have the stock K-Member and stock front control arms

 

Good read:

http://www.mustanghowto.com/kmember.php

 

I don't want to lower my engine.

 

Still waiting on the Shelby front sway bar end links to be delivered.

 

I held off on the Steeda billet front sway bar mounts, I do not think they will fit the H&R bushing correctly.

 

Also, are you or anybody running the stock UCA?

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, I smoked the stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential.

Has anybody replace this bushing?

[JimC]

Jim,

 

I have the stock K-Member and stock front control arms

 

Good read:

http://www.mustangho...com/kmember.php

 

I don't want to lower my engine.

 

Still waiting on the Shelby front sway bar end links to be delivered.

 

I held off on the Steeda billet front sway bar mounts, I do not think they will fit the H&R bushing correctly.

 

Also, are you or anybody running the stock UCA?

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, I smoked the stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential.

Has anybody replace this bushing?

 

 

Yes I replace UCA

The rear bracing I have on my car is the same as yours it comes stock on all convertibles.

 

1. Control Arm relocation bracket

2. Adj Upper control arm

3. Upper control arm mounts

4. Billet lower control arms

5. D/S safety loop

6. What is left of the FRPP suspension packages front and rear sway bars and the

7. FRPP lowering springs

8. I changes out the FRPP shocks for Bilstiens shocks because their valuing is better for autocross & roar course use while still very street able, and I can add a coil over kit to them if I need.

9. Watts Fays system.

10. Next will be the to widen the rear wheels and run some good rubber.

 

My generic front-end list looks like this

 

 

• K-Member K-Member brace ???
• Front & Rear billet spindles ???
• Front Lower A-Arms
• Front Sway Bar end Links
• Required Bushing lit replacements
• 275x35x20 tires on the 9x20 wheels

You are the second person that is against replacing the K-member and you are in good company Mile who build race cars from he ground up, said unless the car is only used for racing, he didn't think the expense of billet spindle and K-member would be necessary unless I was having specific front-end issues. I already lowered my engine with new motor mounts. I am on the fence regarding the K-memebr and spindles., I don't want any weak links.

 

[Tob]

With the new bigger tires and extra grip, I smoked the stock rubber UCA bushing that mounts above the differential.

 

 

The bushing atop the differential is of much higher durometer than the bushing at the front of the UCA (and much smaller in diameter). Greg, what do you mean "smoked"?

 

Tob

 

Ever get a quote for the manifolds?