hodger Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Hi Guys Took the car for a drive today pulled into the the drive way, as I was reversing did a small wheel spin on the small stones I have on the drive The ABS light came on and in the message box it read CHECK TRACTION CONTROL The ABS light is on Any ideas Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyRookie Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Hi Guys Took the car for a drive today pulled into the the drive way, as I was reversing did a small wheel spin on the small stones I have on the drive The ABS light came on and in the message box it read CHECK TRACTION CONTROL The ABS light is on Any ideas Rob If you take each back wheel off, you'll see a thin wire leading to a sensor. On my car the sensor was loose and I had to make sure it was in the right spot and tighten it in. That's likely all it is. If you have access to a lift I don't think you'll even have to take the wheels off. If it isn't that I would take the car in as it is the abs sensor as well as traction control. Hope this helps. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodger Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 If you take each back wheel off, you'll see a thin wire leading to a sensor. On my car the sensor was loose and I had to make sure it was in the right spot and tighten it in. That's likely all it is. If you have access to a lift I don't think you'll even have to take the wheels off. If it isn't that I would take the car in as it is the abs sensor as well as traction control. Hope this helps. Don Thanks for your help Don I will take a look at that Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txcobra Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 I have this problem now....was that it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodger Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 I have this problem now....was that it? Sure was just pushed it back into place No problems after that Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Gorzenski Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Hi friends. I'm facing the same problem. Anyone has a picture of the sensor and/or location ? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Hi friends. I'm facing the same problem. Anyone has a picture of the sensor and/or location ? Thank you If you remove a rear wheel and look behind the axle flange you will see a metal wheel with notches in it around its full diameter, the notched wheel is pressed onto the axle itself. At one location there is a sensor with a small post that is very close to the metal wheel, that post is part of the sensor assy. and at the other end of that post is a wire which attaches that specific sensor to the wire harness of the car. The sensor itself has a single fastener that holds it in place, and that sensor attaches to the caliper mounting bracket from the back side. At the end of the sensor wire there is a connector. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY500SS Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 If you remove a rear wheel and look behind the axle flange you will see a metal wheel with notches in it around its full diameter, the notched wheel is pressed onto the axle itself. At one location there is a sensor with a small post that is very close to the metal wheel, that post is part of the sensor assy. and at the other end of that post is a wire which attaches that specific sensor to the wire harness of the car. The sensor itself has a single fastener that holds it in place, and that sensor attaches to the caliper mounting bracket from the back side. At the end of the sensor wire there is a connector. R Great stuff Robert, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Gorzenski Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Thank you, Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnf Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I am getting the same issue, but am getting the message " brake fluid level low" first. A pic would be great. The other thought is that it is the sensor in the fluid reservoir that has gone bad. Thoughts, suggestions?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I am getting the same issue, but am getting the message " brake fluid level low" first. A pic would be great. The other thought is that it is the sensor in the fluid reservoir that has gone bad. Thoughts, suggestions?? Thanks Low brake fluid and ABS lights should be different. I recently changed my rear Super Snake brake set-up to the Shelby/Baer Extreme six piston rears. One thing I can say...........even though my 2008 only has 880 miles on it, the brake fluid definitely needed to be flushed. I flushed all fluid completely from the master cylinder, through the ABS module and at all four wheels. I know that contaminated fluid causes issues in all areas of the brake system. Moisture will kill a brake system! The master cylinder/low brake fluid switch is in the master cylinder reservoir with a wire lead coming out of the side. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I recently changed my rear Super Snake brake set-up to the Shelby/Baer Extreme six piston rears. One thing I can say...........even though my 2008 only has 880 miles on it, the brake fluid definitely needed to be flushed. Yeah, regardless of MILES on the car, you have 5+ YEARS on it. As a professional Tech I used to attend every single product seminar I could find. Even with having decades of field experience under my belt I found that I'd always learn at least ONE thing from each seminar and that made it worth my while to attend (and typically, a free dinner!) At a brake seminar I attended one time, I was told that if you change/flush your brake fluid once a year, your brake system will pretty much last indefinitely. Brake fluid absorbs water out of the atmosphere and the water will collect in the master cylinder and at the slave cylinders (with drum brakes) and at the calipers. Then it will rust or corrode the steel/aluminum and cause the part to lose its ability to seal. That and this nasty looking "muck" crap collects in the bottom of the MC reservoir and in the calipers/slave cylinders so flushing the system once a year is nothing but good for it. All it costs you is some brake fluid and it saves you a TON more. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnf Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Low brake fluid and ABS lights should be different. I recently changed my rear Super Snake brake set-up to the Shelby/Baer Extreme six piston rears. One thing I can say...........even though my 2008 only has 880 miles on it, the brake fluid definitely needed to be flushed. I flushed all fluid completely from the master cylinder, through the ABS module and at all four wheels. I know that contaminated fluid causes issues in all areas of the brake system. Moisture will kill a brake system! The master cylinder/low brake fluid switch is in the master cylinder reservoir with a wire lead coming out of the side. R Light indicators are different. Both messages are coming up at the same time in the info center. I found the sensor on the master cylinder reservoir and ordered it from the dealer. Figure for $25 it was a good starting point. Just confused as to why both messages appear at the same time. And I flushed the brake system. The fluid was very dark. For the minimal cost of the fluid and the 30 to 45 minutes to flush and bleed the system, this is now on the annual radar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Light indicators are different. Both messages are coming up at the same time in the info center. I found the sensor on the master cylinder reservoir and ordered it from the dealer. Figure for $25 it was a good starting point. Just confused as to why both messages appear at the same time. And I flushed the brake system. The fluid was very dark. For the minimal cost of the fluid and the 30 to 45 minutes to flush and bleed the system, this is now on the annual radar. Not sure why both would be on? Yes, the Baer Extreme 6 piston fronts are expensive to start with, not to mention adding the rear Extremes also. It would be a shame to ignore the brake system (as many do), and incur a Huge cost in the future, and we are not even bringing the ABS hydraulic portion into the $$$ equation...........It is amazing how quickly the brake fluid can turn into a root beer looking mess, and then another mistake, replacing pads and pressing the pistons back in the calipers and pushing all of that nasty fluid back into the piston and reservoir area of the master cylinder. It would almost seem to be more wise to bleed the brakes first before pad replacement and then when the pistons are pushed back into the calipers, it is nice clean fluid that is pushed back into the m/c...........not rusty fluid? Silicone fluid would be a Great option..............Except, it is not recommended for use with ABS...... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnf Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Thanks for the advice. Will start at the master cylinder sensor. And then check the ABS sensors from there. Dealer felt that the fluid sensor might have something to do with the ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 I'm a little late on this but I came across this picture showing the location of the ABS sensor on the backing plate of the Baer Extreme rear brakes. I took this picture when I was reassembling parts and replicating my original assy. line markings after my 8.8 axle restoration, before I slid it back under the car............. Shown below > The single fastener that is screwed into the backing plate is for the ABS sensor. On the OEM rear brake caliper bracket, it is located in this same position when viewed from the inside axle/under car area. <<I think? Note the Blue panhard bar made by Granatelli ^^^^^^, this the earlier bar used on the Super Snakes. The later bar is the Black/Dark (Hammertone) bar by BMR. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Man you do nice work. I wish I would'a thought about making mine 'nude' when I painted it. It never even crossed my mind. That just looks so 'natural' (and brand new). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Man you do nice work. I wish I would'a thought about making mine 'nude' when I painted it. It never even crossed my mind. That just looks so 'natural' (and brand new). Phill Not to hijack this thread, but thanks Phill, it was a lot of work. It is not bare, that would start to rust again..............I tried multiple brands of clear finish, some were "too glossy", some "too flat". It had to have the correct look if I was going to go to the extent to make it "correct" looking as a new assy. line finish. I ended up using the Eastwood Diamond Clear Bare Metal finish. I came out to my satisfaction............. The center section.......... Before After ^^^The assy. line markings on the oem Black center section were still visible and only needed some touch-up with the correct Markal Paint Marker color. It was the rusted axle tubes and bracket's that required the most time to first of all remove the layer of surface rust and not disturb the assy. line markings and then document the markings. These markings disappeared for the most part by the time all rust was removed. Then buying the correct paint sticks as used by the Ford assy. worker and then replicating the original markings on the new surface................. Before After The number "3" on the axle tube as the rust was slowly removed it appeared........... After........... I even had correct/new labels made including the axle wrap label with the VIN number, it always gets damaged from gear oil that comes out of the vent next to it................ Shown below, a paper label, one time in the rain and it starts to deteriorate........... As it was being slid under my Super Snake............... Yes, in the picture above I did re-install the weights bolted to the axle brackets on the right and left sides, they were bead blasted and then sprayed with Eastwood Bare Cast Iron spray, so they would look correct/original new, but not rust. I am soooooo happy that project is done!!! The longer the axle is left to rust, the more "pitting" will result and the less chance that the axle will be able to be "restored" without the pits being visible under a clear coat. To do the axle the way I have done it, it is best to do it as quick as possible, the more rust, the more chance of pitting. The bottom of the axle tubes, where the water would naturally run, is where the pitting would be the worst, thankfully I caught mine early enough and had little to no pitting, but it was not far from starting to pit. Sorry again to the OP for the hijack, but Phill mentioned my axle........... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Not to hijack this thread, but thanks Phill, it was a lot of work. It is not bare, that would start to rust again.............. Yeah, I know. I followed your original thread when you posted it. Again, nice work. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnf Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Thanks for the pic Robert. Also, thanks for giving me a new project to take on. The rear end looks awesome. Nice job. Master cylinder reservoir sensor will be here some time tomorrow. Hopefully that solves the problem, but I have a feeling it will only fix part of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Thanks for the pic Robert. Also, thanks for giving me a new project to take on. The rear end looks awesome. Nice job. Master cylinder reservoir sensor will be here some time tomorrow. Hopefully that solves the problem, but I have a feeling it will only fix part of it. Thanks! You may be thanking me now, but cursing me when you get well into the 8.8 restore. It is a very slow process to remove the rust, but not disturb the assy, line markings. <<If you go to that extent. It would have been much easier/quicker to spray it and be done............ You may be right on the m/c sensor, it may be just one of two problems, I am interested in hearing what you find, R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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