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Brake Problems


CSX4350

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CSX4350 is about 2 years old and I've been complaining of weak brakes since day 1. Today I put the car on the lift to adjust the parking brake, and gave the car a good once over while it was in the air. What I saw scared the crap out of me.

 

The front rotors are deeply grooved on the inside, like the brakes have been metal to metal for a long time. I spun the tires and they spin with only normal disc brake drag, but the brakes make a sickening grinding noise. I pulled the wheels and was really surprised to see the outside of the rotors are absolutely brand new, the crosshatching is still perfectly visible.

 

I assume that the calipers aren't floating properly, they were possibly assembled wrong at SAI. That doesn't really explain the gouged rotors though. I will have to take it all apart and see what is actually going on. My questions are:

 

What are these brakes originally from? What pads fit the calipers, an even bigger question is what are the best pads?

 

I don't know if the rotors are salvagable, I think so but I'm not sure. If I need new rotors what is the original fitment for those?

 

An even better question, is there an upgraded rotor available, and an upgraded caliper? They would have to fit the original wheels, I don't want to change wheels.

 

TIA

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CSX4350 is about 2 years old and I've been complaining of weak brakes since day 1. Today I put the car on the lift to adjust the parking brake, and gave the car a good once over while it was in the air. What I saw scared the crap out of me.

 

The front rotors are deeply grooved on the inside, like the brakes have been metal to metal for a long time. I spun the tires and they spin with only normal disc brake drag, but the brakes make a sickening grinding noise. I pulled the wheels and was really surprised to see the outside of the rotors are absolutely brand new, the crosshatching is still perfectly visible.

 

I assume that the calipers aren't floating properly, they were possibly assembled wrong at SAI. That doesn't really explain the gouged rotors though. I will have to take it all apart and see what is actually going on. My questions are:

 

What are these brakes originally from? What pads fit the calipers, an even bigger question is what are the best pads?

 

I don't know if the rotors are salvagable, I think so but I'm not sure. If I need new rotors what is the original fitment for those?

 

An even better question, is there an upgraded rotor available, and an upgraded caliper? They would have to fit the original wheels, I don't want to change wheels.

 

TIA

 

 

give Bill a call, he can answer all your questions. he fixed my brakes with better pads

HRE Motorcars 516-378-5461

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The plot thickens, I understand that several cars, even glass cars, have had similar problems. A preliminary inspection of the brakes revealed:

 

The bearings were loose, I was able to remove the nut by hand. Luckily, the bearings themselves look good. When I started to tighten the nut the rotor was pressed into the inner brake pad and locked the rotor up. There is something seriously wrong with the relationship between the caliper, bracket and rotor. The caliper is not moving on the bracket at all, it is locked up tight. It is obvious that the outside of the rotor has never seen any pressure from the brakes, it has definitely been this way from day one. The caliper bracket is actually hitting the back of the rotor, that's what caused the scoring. Both fronts are exactly the same, the rears appear to be functioning normally.

 

Even though the car is two years old, I hope SAI stands behind this.

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The plot thickens, I understand that several cars, even glass cars, have had similar problems. A preliminary inspection of the brakes revealed:

 

The bearings were loose, I was able to remove the nut by hand. Luckily, the bearings themselves look good. When I started to tighten the nut the rotor was pressed into the inner brake pad and locked the rotor up. There is something seriously wrong with the relationship between the caliper and bracket. The caliper is not moving on the bracket at all, it is locked up tight. It is obvious that the outside of the rotor has never seen any pressure from the brakes, it has definitely been this way from day one. The caliper bracket is actually hitting the back of the rotor, that's what caused the scoring. Both fronts are exactly the same, the rears appear to be functioning normally.

 

Even though the car is two years old, I hope SAI stands behind this.

 

 

I have never heard of any warranty with the csx cars from shelby. I would like to know if there is one. My emergancy brake broke today. i pulled it up and it would hold and also wouldnt go back down to the normal position. I also have a faulty gas guage and fuel pickup, it is high and to the left instead of the center so when I go around a sharp corner and give it gas it hesitates. Unfortunatly, there isnt a shelby dealer anywhere in the Phoenix/Tucson area.

Ron

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The plot thickens, I understand that several cars, even glass cars, have had similar problems. A preliminary inspection of the brakes revealed:

 

The bearings were loose, I was able to remove the nut by hand. Luckily, the bearings themselves look good. When I started to tighten the nut the rotor was pressed into the inner brake pad and locked the rotor up. There is something seriously wrong with the relationship between the caliper, bracket and rotor. The caliper is not moving on the bracket at all, it is locked up tight. It is obvious that the outside of the rotor has never seen any pressure from the brakes, it has definitely been this way from day one. The caliper bracket is actually hitting the back of the rotor, that's what caused the scoring. Both fronts are exactly the same, the rears appear to be functioning normally.

 

Even though the car is two years old, I hope SAI stands behind this.

 

 

stand in line :lurk:

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I have never heard of any warranty with the csx cars from shelby. I would like to know if there is one. My emergancy brake broke today. i pulled it up and it would hold and also wouldnt go back down to the normal position. I also have a faulty gas guage and fuel pickup, it is high and to the left instead of the center so when I go around a sharp corner and give it gas it hesitates. Unfortunatly, there isnt a shelby dealer anywhere in the Phoenix/Tucson area.

Ron

 

 

same here, faulty gas guage and fuel pick up among other major issues. still waiting to here from the dealer or SA

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same here, faulty gas guage and fuel pick up among other major issues. still waiting to here from the dealer or SA

 

 

My dealer went out of business but I have searched through everything I have and nothing about a warranty or even a manual (I gave up on that one)

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My dealer went out of business but I have searched through everything I have and nothing about a warranty or even a manual (I gave up on that one)

 

 

interesting, so did the dealer I delt with. contact SA

Shelby American, Inc.

Attn: Gary Patterson

6755 Speedway Boulevard

Las Vegas, Nevada 89115

Tel: (702) 942-REAL Fax: (702) 93-COBRA

Email: garyp@shelbyamerican.com

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My dealer went out of business but I have searched through everything I have and nothing about a warranty or even a manual (I gave up on that one)

 

 

All Shelby Cobras have a 6 month warranty on them I believe. Sounds like you would be well past that date anyway, but that was the warranty period.

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It appears that the warranty is on the roller. It seems universal. On the Cobra site there is a fellow with a Superformance with basic roller issues. In some and maybe most cases, by the time the roller is sent to the power train installer and the car finished the roller warranty will be over. I don't know what can be done except to budget some amount of money to cover it afterwards. I think I've seen most are willing to cover the parts but labor is on you.

 

My fuel tank gauge doesn't work either. When I get it back from Roush that will be the next project. I think the calibration is off. When it finally comes off full it flutters around alot and by reckoning it's about 1/4. Reminds me that I need to check with Bud/Gary about it.

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My fuel tank gauge doesn't work either. When I get it back from Roush that will be the next project. I think the calibration is off. When it finally comes off full it flutters around alot and by reckoning it's about 1/4. Reminds me that I need to check with Bud/Gary about it.

 

 

The calibration is pretty easy to do, but it still won't be very accurate. Mine is perfectly calibrated now (I did it twice to be sure), but because the tube with the sensor is mounted 1/2 way down the bladder and points down, the gauge doesn't read anything for the first 3/4 of a tank or so. The first reading you get is a fluctuation of the gauge when you accelerate as the gas sloshes around. It is probably like the fluttering you are talking about. That happens for a while and then the gauge starts to move off of full. At that point, head to a gas station as you are probably at about 1/8 of a tank or so.....It's not a great set-up, but it is a reminder that you need to get gas....

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

What he said, I was warned right off the bat by my builder that the fuel gauge was useless. I have never seen it move off of full, consider it that when it does move off full you need to start thinking about fuel.

 

On an up note, SAI is working with me on my brake problems. It seems that my spindles were improperly shimmed onto my uprights, causing the rotor to be too far inward. It has happened a few times before, my understanding is that SAI buys this already assembled by an outside supplier. They are taking care of repairing or replacing the parts, I had to take them off & send them back.

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