Edelbrock E-Force Dyno Results

[aseos2004]

I installed the Edelbrock E-Force over the weekend and got it tuned and dyno'd yesterday. Only other mods on the car are CompCam Stage 1, JBA Shorty Headers and 4:10 Gears.

 

Figured you guys might want to see the results.

454.93 rwhp - 398.56 rwtq

 

My fuel pump was pretty much at 100% through the test, so I'm not sure to go with a booster or swap the fuel pump.

[Dig-It]

Nice torque curve - good numbers! How do you like driving it now?

[68fastback]

Very nice!!

 

I'd definately swap the pumps -- nothing like native capacity, imo.

 

What TB does the E-Force use? Whether GT500 bolt pattern or GT bolt pattern there's an L&M TB that will give you a nice additional bump if you're looking for more. More importantly it will lower the pressure drop to the inlet so the SC will run more efficiently and therefore make a bit more boost. A nice low restriction exhaust would then add even a bit more power but *reduce* boost and unstress the SC and the engine a bit. In essence HP gotten purely thru efficiency improvements puts no more (or minimizes additional) stress on an SC motor because it enables sifting SCbeltHP to rwHP. Just some thoughts.

[aseos2004]

It took me a good hour to get used to the drive, but man is it fun.

 

The TB came with the kit. It's a 85mm single barrel. Also, this setup is only at 5psi so the stress on the engine is very low which is what turned me on to this kit.

[avidShelby]

aseos2004,

 

Did you retain your stock FRPP CAI, or did you switch to a stock Mustang airbox?

[aseos2004]

Kept the stock FRPP CAI.

[avidShelby]

Kept the stock FRPP CAI.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. Have fun and be safe...

[ShadowLands]

You better swap the pumps!!!! The factory single pump will wear pretty quick if it is already at 100% duty cycle. I was using the Ford GT supercar pump (single) in mine at 477hp and it wasn't too happy.

 

Get the FRPP dual pump kit for the Mustang (GT500 pump setup). Let me know if you can't find it for a decent price.

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Dang, your making me sick! I want one!

 

Self installed, eh? Any problems? How's the fitment with the lower grill and brake duct/driving lights? (If you have them) Did you get the V6/Bullitt strut brace as well?

 

Sam

[AstroDan]

Nice numbers! What boost are you running?

I would also change fuel pump...

 

Enjoy and be safe.

[07-2937]

thats a huge amount of hp for 5psi. Get the gt500 pump set up you wont be sorry..

[68fastback]

It took me a good hour to get used to the drive, but man is it fun.

 

The TB came with the kit. It's a 85mm single barrel. Also, this setup is only at 5psi so the stress on the engine is very low which is what turned me on to this kit.

 

 

Nice! ...yes, understand the 5 psi.

 

But definately do the pumps tho. Too easy to hit a nice cool, dry, high-barometer day and toast a piston for lack of fuel if you're already at the duty-cycle limit. Hypereutectics are brittle and typically prone to thermal stress anyway (why the stock tune runs a bit rich and why the new Coyote has piston squirters), so best to be safe.

 

Best of luck with her!!

[FordFan1]

Kept the stock FRPP CAI.

 

 

Can you post up a photo???

I maybe doing an install soon for a fellow Team Shelby member, any fitment issues using the FRPP CAI??

 

Thanks-

[doogie65]

Nice choice and very good numbers!

 

But it is kind of odd that even though you are making about 30 more RWHP than me, your torque peak and curve is almost identical. I assume you are running the base kit 3.75 inch pulley, correct?

 

I plan to bump mine up a bit in the spring with a 3.5 inch pulley, GT500 pumps and a Bullitt CAI, with a similar mid 400 goal.

[aseos2004]

So here are some things to consider if going with this system, especially if installing it yourself:

 

1. You have to go with the stock underdrive pulley and water pump pulley for the new alternator bracket to fit.

2. The serpentine belt they had in my kit was too small. Actually it was the same size as my stock. Verify the last 4 digits of the part number is 1037. This will tell you it's 103.7". I had to buy it from Kragen the next morning.

3. Get a 5/8 fuel line disconnect tool. (this is a must to disconnect the fuel line)

4. The heater hose disconnect from the firewall was really tough on mine. The clip was pressed from both sides but the hose would not budge. Ended up breakiing the clips on the hose (the hose is replaced anyway) to finally remove it. Just be extremely carefull not to put to much stress when removing it because you could damage the heater core behind the firewall.

5. If you have the brake ducts/driving lights, then some modifications are required:

-- The lights need to be remounted another way because the water pump mounts just below the passenger side driving light bracket. I'm thinking of mounting the lights on the bezel opening from the sides.

-- The ducts have to be removed and the brake buct bezel cut back about 1.5" to clear the new heat exchange.

-- The lower grille is fine, no mods needed.

6. The FRPP CAI will fit. Just need to try different angles with the elbow until it's seated properly.

7. The gaskets that will fit the SC are off of the control motion plates (or delete plates if you've replaced them). The ones off of the intake manifold will not fit.

8. Before dropping the SC in place, route all the hoses and cables properly since it's very difficult to reach behind it once it sits on the block.

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

 

Also, there are several modifiations to electrical plugs. They're not difficult, just nerve racking when you're rewiring stuff. As long you verify twice before cutting into anything, it should fine. Edelbrock did a great job on the instructions, guiding you step by step.

 

Hope this helps answer/prepare what to expect.

[stngfever]

Wouldn't it be great if the Shelby Logo were on this?

[aseos2004]

Wouldn't it be great if the Shelby Logo were on this?

 

 

I thought the same thing. I've been working on that

[68fastback]

So here are some things to consider if going with this system, especially if installing it yourself:

 

1. You have to go with the stock underdrive pulley and water pump pulley for the new alternator bracket to fit.

2. The serpentine belt they had in my kit was too small. Actually it was the same size as my stock. Verify the last 4 digits of the part number is 1037. This will tell you it's 103.7". I had to buy it from Kragen the next morning.

3. Get a 5/8 fuel line disconnect tool. (this is a must to disconnect the fuel line)

4. The heater hose disconnect from the firewall was really tough on mine. The clip was pressed from both sides but the hose would not budge. Ended up breakiing the clips on the hose (the hose is replaced anyway) to finally remove it. Just be extremely carefull not to put to much stress when removing it because you could damage the heater core behind the firewall.

5. If you have the brake ducts/driving lights, then some modifications are required:

-- The lights need to be remounted another way because the water pump mounts just below the passenger side driving light bracket. I'm thinking of mounting the lights on the bezel opening from the sides.

-- The ducts have to be removed and the brake buct bezel cut back about 1.5" to clear the new heat exchange.

-- The lower grille is fine, no mods needed.

6. The FRPP CAI will fit. Just need to try different angles with the elbow until it's seated properly.

7. The gaskets that will fit the SC are off of the control motion plates (or delete plates if you've replaced them). The ones off of the intake manifold will not fit.

8. Before dropping the SC in place, route all the hoses and cables properly since it's very difficult to reach behind it once it sits on the block.

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

 

Also, there are several modifiations to electrical plugs. They're not difficult, just nerve racking when you're rewiring stuff. As long you verify twice before cutting into anything, it should fine. Edelbrock did a great job on the instructions, guiding you step by step.

 

Hope this helps answer/prepare what to expect.

 

 

Nice write-up and insights!! thanks...

 

I also like the look as you have it with the faux-covers not installed -- very nice and clean!

[FordFan1]

Thanks for sharing-

I recommend picking up a set of hose clamp pliers to deal with the factory clamps, they really made the job so much easier with I installed the Roushcharger on the wife's car.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999371000P?keyword=hose+clamp

 

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

That's wierd I know of a few Bullitt Mustangs with the E-force and they have plenty of clearance without modification

[aseos2004]

Thanks for sharing-

I recommend picking up a set of hose clamp pliers to deal with the factory clamps, they really made the job so much easier with I installed the Roushcharger on the wife's car.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999371000P?keyword=hose+clamp

 

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

That's wierd I know of a few Bullitt Mustangs with the E-force and they have plenty of clearance without modification

 

 

Those clamp pliers would've made life easier... definately getting those. And thanks for the Bullitt brace tip... looks like those will fit.

[FordFan1]

And thanks for the Bullitt brace tip... looks like those will fit.

 

 

Doesn't the SGT & Bullitt share the same FRPP but with a different center tag???

Or did your car come equipped with the "SHELBY" brace from the catalog ??

[Shelby2809]

Here's a picture of the V6/Bullitt strut tower brace. I noticed it on your list so I thought I'd help. Great looking car!

 

Jim

 

So here are some things to consider if going with this system, especially if installing it yourself:

 

1. You have to go with the stock underdrive pulley and water pump pulley for the new alternator bracket to fit.

2. The serpentine belt they had in my kit was too small. Actually it was the same size as my stock. Verify the last 4 digits of the part number is 1037. This will tell you it's 103.7". I had to buy it from Kragen the next morning.

3. Get a 5/8 fuel line disconnect tool. (this is a must to disconnect the fuel line)

4. The heater hose disconnect from the firewall was really tough on mine. The clip was pressed from both sides but the hose would not budge. Ended up breakiing the clips on the hose (the hose is replaced anyway) to finally remove it. Just be extremely carefull not to put to much stress when removing it because you could damage the heater core behind the firewall.

5. If you have the brake ducts/driving lights, then some modifications are required:

-- The lights need to be remounted another way because the water pump mounts just below the passenger side driving light bracket. I'm thinking of mounting the lights on the bezel opening from the sides.

-- The ducts have to be removed and the brake buct bezel cut back about 1.5" to clear the new heat exchange.

-- The lower grille is fine, no mods needed.

6. The FRPP CAI will fit. Just need to try different angles with the elbow until it's seated properly.

7. The gaskets that will fit the SC are off of the control motion plates (or delete plates if you've replaced them). The ones off of the intake manifold will not fit.

8. Before dropping the SC in place, route all the hoses and cables properly since it's very difficult to reach behind it once it sits on the block.

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

 

Also, there are several modifiations to electrical plugs. They're not difficult, just nerve racking when you're rewiring stuff. As long you verify twice before cutting into anything, it should fine. Edelbrock did a great job on the instructions, guiding you step by step.

 

Hope this helps answer/prepare what to expect.

 

[aseos2004]

Doesn't the SGT & Bullitt share the same FRPP but with a different center tag???

Or did your car come equipped with the "SHELBY" brace from the catalog ??

 

 

Mine is the black FRPP and looks a bit different fron the silver brace on the V6/Bullitts. Here's a pic of a GT from the net that has the same as mine.

[08SGT1591]

The V6 strut brace will work. Did you know Edelbrock lists a Mustang Strut Brace option...probably a little pricey tho...item #52811. It has 'Edelbrock' on it tho. How many times do you want to see Edelbrock under the hood of your Shelby? I will leave the coil covers off too when I can afford the SuperCharger.

 

If you figure a way to cover the Edelbrock on the charger with a Shelby plate let me know. I wish Shelby would consider this charger as one they install for the registry.

 

GREG

[Lgs ShelbyGT]

I installed the Edelbrock E-Force over the weekend and got it tuned and dyno'd yesterday.

 

My fuel pump was pretty much at 100% through the test, so I'm not sure to go with a booster or swap the fuel pump.

 

 

Hey Kerry,

Thoughts on the fuel pump with this otherwise stock instal except for the FRPP CAI?

Or is this not unusual on a dyno...

Lg

[FordFan1]

Hey Kerry,

Thoughts on the fuel pump with this otherwise stock instal except for the FRPP CAI?

Or is this not unusual on a dyno...

Lg

I'll double check on it Larry, my source have not had any issues with fuel with the standard size pulley-

 

 

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

[William Rodgers]

Is this the claimed 5 PSI that is really more? That is one reason I stayed away from the Edelbrock, also they started with a lot of problems. With that said, although I am happy with my Whipple, today I would consider the Edelbrock if it were certified.

 

Nice Unit

[Naa-V-Doc]

Is this the claimed 5 PSI that is really more? That is one reason I stayed away from the Edelbrock, also they started with a lot of problems. With that said, although I am happy with my Whipple, today I would consider the Edelbrock if it were certified.

 

Nice Unit

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If I remember correctly - it is Cert. and carries 3yr/36K Warr... May be the orig OP can confirm... I looked into the Edel myself. Seems like a great bang for the buck and low 5 psi as "stated by Edel". on the eng.

[HARALD KELLEY]

So here are some things to consider if going with this system, especially if installing it yourself:

 

1. You have to go with the stock underdrive pulley and water pump pulley for the new alternator bracket to fit.

2. The serpentine belt they had in my kit was too small. Actually it was the same size as my stock. Verify the last 4 digits of the part number is 1037. This will tell you it's 103.7". I had to buy it from Kragen the next morning.

3. Get a 5/8 fuel line disconnect tool. (this is a must to disconnect the fuel line)

4. The heater hose disconnect from the firewall was really tough on mine. The clip was pressed from both sides but the hose would not budge. Ended up breakiing the clips on the hose (the hose is replaced anyway) to finally remove it. Just be extremely carefull not to put to much stress when removing it because you could damage the heater core behind the firewall.

5. If you have the brake ducts/driving lights, then some modifications are required:

-- The lights need to be remounted another way because the water pump mounts just below the passenger side driving light bracket. I'm thinking of mounting the lights on the bezel opening from the sides.

-- The ducts have to be removed and the brake buct bezel cut back about 1.5" to clear the new heat exchange.

-- The lower grille is fine, no mods needed.

6. The FRPP CAI will fit. Just need to try different angles with the elbow until it's seated properly.

7. The gaskets that will fit the SC are off of the control motion plates (or delete plates if you've replaced them). The ones off of the intake manifold will not fit.

8. Before dropping the SC in place, route all the hoses and cables properly since it's very difficult to reach behind it once it sits on the block.

9. The strut tower brace does not fit. I'm looking into other options.

 

Also, there are several modifiations to electrical plugs. They're not difficult, just nerve racking when you're rewiring stuff. As long you verify twice before cutting into anything, it should fine. Edelbrock did a great job on the instructions, guiding you step by step.

 

Hope this helps answer/prepare what to expect.

 

 

Yours is the first one I have seen where the FRPP CAI was retained. Very nice and looks almost stock. Good choice to leave the covers off. However, Edel is considering others which may have other logos. Carroll Shelby and Vic Edelbrock are good friends and had a real connection in the 60s so having Edelbrock parts on a Shelby is not something new. Enjoy.

[ShadowLands]

My fuel pump was pretty much at 100% through the test, so I'm not sure to go with a booster or swap the fuel pump.

 

 

GT500 pump setup is your friend. And a friend you need ASAP.