DaFreak Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 I'm so jealous of all that get the finished axle. After 5hrs I've: 1) Jacked er up (using Rhino ramps, scary as hell) 2) Scotch brited to knock down and smooth the surface rust 3) Tapped er up for rust converter and paint application Jeeze, can't wait to be done! Some pics for your viewing pleasure. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 You are doing a very nice job with the prep work. You will be very pleased when you are all done. Please do one safety measure to protect your self just incase a jack stand was to fail. Put something under the car on both sides that would keep it from falling all the way down. You could use a couple of old rims or a second set of jacks. Or stuff the rhino ramps under each side like I did. Here's what I did as a safety measure. Put the ramps under the car with a board on top. That way if the car fell, I would not get smashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Thanks Grabber! Actually, I have a scissor jack + jack stand on each side and had the stock rim too but I just pulled em out to paint. However, I agree and will find something else to hold just in case. Cheers, DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpierson Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Sorry to change the topic. But is there enough clearance to use the rhino ramps in the front? I would be using them for oil changes. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 What kind of rust converter and paint are you planning on using? Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod_Michel Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Are you knocking off the rust with an air powered brush or are using a converter like Naval Jelly? Taking a look in my own crystal ball and see myself doing the same thing in about 2-3 weeks... I'm so jealous of all that get the finished axle. After 5hrs I've: 1) Jacked er up (using Rhino ramps, scary as hell) 2) Scotch brited to knock down and smooth the surface rust 3) Tapped er up for rust converter and paint application Jeeze, can't wait to be done! Some pics for your viewing pleasure. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchool Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 I'm so jealous of all that get the finished axle. After 5hrs I've: 1) Jacked er up (using Rhino ramps, scary as hell) 2) Scotch brited to knock down and smooth the surface rust 3) Tapped er up for rust converter and paint application Jeeze, can't wait to be done! Some pics for your viewing pleasure. DaFreak Anyone know of someone getting a finished axle out of Ford after they have taken delivery of their car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 What kind of rust converter and paint are you planning on using? Ken Not sure what DaFreak is using but this is what I used: RUST CONVERTER PAINT I DID MY REAR CALIPERS TOO 2 YEARS LATER IT STILL LOOKS LIKE NEW !!! :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Sorry to change the topic. But is there enough clearance to use the rhino ramps in the front? I would be using them for oil changes. Thanks! Yes they will work if you put a 2X10 in front of them first to give more clearance. Drill a hole in the 2X10 and thread a small rope thru the rhino ramp so it does not move on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpierson Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Thanks Grabber, you rock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Thanks Grabber, you rock! One other tip. Before taking off the oil filter, position a piece of aluminum foil over the top of the cross member directly under the oil filter. This will keep the oil from landing on the top of that cross member and getting into the holes of that member. That member is hollow and when the oil gets in there...it takes a few days to drip out of the bottom hole that is on the underside of that member. If you don't do this and you notice oil on the floor, check to see if it's coming out of that hole. That hole is there to allow any fluid that might get in there to exit. ps. DaFreak - sorry to change the topic at hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1fever Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Freak, That prep work is amazing. I might have to get you to do my future one. Rob, why were you never an engineer. Your attention to detail and innovative spirit is phenomenal. I love the fact that you document everything you have done for our benefit. Respectfully, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Hi All, Glad to give some help. Some comments on your questions. --> I used the Rhino ramps on the front without the 2X10 and it does just barely clear (stock suspension). --> A buddy of mine is a commercial paint salesman at Rhodda paint and he suggested to following products: --> I like having a spray version of the converter too as some of these spots you can't reach with a brush. --> Some more prep work shots (my wife just commented: It looks like a cartoon) funny! Enjoy, DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 At one time the pumkins came painted from the factory; it's unfortunate you have to paint that as well. I know that it's a lot of work but you'll be satisfied when done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 I'm planning on painting my rear axle too but I had a different idea about how to do it. My plan is: Jack up the rear end of the vehicle and support it with stands. Remove rear wheels. Remove rear calipers from the axle. Install rear wheels. Disconnect drive shaft. Support rear axle with floor jack. Disconnect shocks. Disconnect upper/lower control arms. Lower rear axle to ground. Roll axle out on the wheels. Prep/paint axle assy. Reverse proceedure to install axle. Anyone tried that proceedure yet? I'm also planing on installing a girdle so with the nose of the pumpkin pointing down, I'll save the mess and hassle of masking the rear cover (two birds/one rock). Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 I'm planning on painting my rear axle too but I had a different idea about how to do it. My plan is: Jack up the rear end of the vehicle and support it with stands. Remove rear wheels. Remove rear calipers from the axle. Install rear wheels. Disconnect drive shaft. Support rear axle with floor jack. Disconnect shocks. Disconnect upper/lower control arms. Lower rear axle to ground. Roll axle out on the wheels. Prep/paint axle assy. Reverse proceedure to install axle. Anyone tried that proceedure yet? I'm also planing on installing a girdle so with the nose of the pumpkin pointing down, I'll save the mess and hassle of masking the rear cover (two birds/one rock). Phill Obviously not here Phill but I'm sure you'd get much better coverage. It's tough to get coverage around the pumpkin and calipers this way. Seems like a good time to do any suspension upgrades too. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Hi All, Some pics after the rust converter application. Only have the paint to go! DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burning Blue Star IV Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 --> A buddy of mine is a commercial paint salesman at Rhodda paint and he suggested to following products:--> I like having a spray version of the converter too as some of these spots you can't reach with a brush. DaFreak I used the same rust converter for mine...seemed to work excellent. Also got the rustoleum sealer to cover it with. I will not be posting pics for fear of ridicule. I used the steady hand, good aim approach and didn't tape anything off. Good enough for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 No ridicule from me BB. I'm only this way cause I'm a freak (hence the name). I think it's a disease and your pics could only help me DaFreak I used the same rust converter for mine...seemed to work excellent. Also got the rustoleum sealer to cover it with. I will not be posting pics for fear of ridicule. I used the steady hand, good aim approach and didn't tape anything off. Good enough for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I used the same rust converter for mine...seemed to work excellent. Also got the rustoleum sealer to cover it with. I will not be posting pics for fear of ridicule. I used the steady hand, good aim approach and didn't tape anything off. Good enough for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVIATOR Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Yes they will work if you put a 2X10 in front of them first to give more clearance. Drill a hole in the 2X10 and thread a small rope thru the rhino ramp so it does not move on you. Man, even your concrete is clean and sealed. Can we say OCD? Just kidding, I am actually jealous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torched10 Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 my car didnt have any/much rust on it back in June,so i just killed what little rust theres was,and cleared it.I check it once a mointh and still looks new--have 1600 miles on it,but no rain or wet roads--its an extra car,ay my age I need extra things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burning Blue Star IV Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 No ridicule from me BB. I'm only this way cause I'm a freak (hence the name). I think it's a disease and your pics could only help me DaFreak Thanks DaFreak. I do appreciate the attention to detail that people like yourself do, however. I think I got that all worked out of my system a while ago. Now I'm just content to keep the top side clean, interior and engine compartment. Hey now! LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchool Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi All, Some pics after the rust converter application. Only have the paint to go! DaFreak DaFreak, Applying the rust converter, did you just paint it directly on the rust and then wipe clean? Probably a dumb question I just have never done it. If you could walk through the steps that would help. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 my car didnt have any/much rust on it back in June,so i just killed what little rust theres was,and cleared it.I check it once a mointh and still looks new--have 1600 miles on it,but no rain or wet roads--its an extra car,ay my age I need extra things FYI...It's a big No No to lift the front of the car the way it's being done in your 2nd photo. It's easy to have the uni body cave in at those points after several lifts. The load transfer from the black steel to the body is the problem. The body can't take it at those points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi All, Getn' close now. Just applied the paint (you'll see it's still drying in the pics). Can wait to pull off the paper and driver er again. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torched10 Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi All, Getn' close now. Just applied the paint (you'll see it's still drying in the pics). Can wait to pull off the paper and driver er again. DaFreak looks vey nice--did you spray or brush on--looks like a gloss??or is it semi-gloss.Sory if i missed a post,but whta brand paint--thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 looks vey nice--did you spray or brush on--looks like a gloss??or is it semi-gloss.Sory if i missed a post,but whta brand paint--thanks I sprayed on Rustoleum high performance semi gloss enamel. Went with the semi gloss as many of the other finished parts looked similar. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1fever Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 How did you get the tops with the spray can. Looks like it would be a tight fit. Respectfully, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi Roger, You can pretty much reach all of the tops (axle, break area, etc.) with the exception of the pumpkin. I just did the best I could with that. DaFreak How did you get the tops with the spray can. Looks like it would be a tight fit. Respectfully, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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