Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

MMR forged 5.0 stroker build


Recommended Posts

This thread will document my engine build. I decided today to go with MMR on the majority of the parts. A local shop called Motor Machines will do the machining and assembly. They do all of the machine work for many shops in and around Sacramento, including AED and NorCal Motorsports.

 

Rick at MMR helped me a ton with the parts I need and has helped me to draft up a plan for the rest of the build. Here's what I ordered today.

 

MMR Stroker 950 Street Mod rotating assembly:

MMR 8 bolt forged stroker steel racing crankshaft

Manley 4340 forged H-beam rods

Manley forged pistons (.020" over)

Hastings piston rings

Clevite rod and main cap bearings

ARP main studs

ARP rod bolts

MMR 'Hurricane' internal billet geared oil pump

MMR Romeo Racing engine sidebolt/washer kit

 

The new engine will have a 9:1 compression ratio, which Rick thinks is the perfect choice for my Paxton Novi 1200. Since Rick worked at Paxton for a long time, I'm taking his word for it. Once I can get the motor torn down at work, I'll drop it off at Motor Machines for the machining that's necessary.

Next, the cams will go off to Comp for inspection and warranty claim. Once I have a resolution out of Comp, the heads will be sent to MMR for porting/polishing/assembly. Finally, the complete heads will be brought to Motor Machines for the final long block assembly and timing setup. NorCal will then re-install the long block and I'll put the rest back together at home.

 

The stroker kit and other parts will ship in a week or two. I'm relieved to have a goal in sight with this unexpected project. Stay tuned...

 

Ken

 

rotating%20assembly.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 587
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Sounds like it's going to be a beast, Ken. Can't wait to get a ride in it on the track again.

 

Congrats on getting it started and good luck.

Thanks buddy. I'm excited to get going on the build, but not nearly as excited as I am about getting this thing out on the track for the first time!

You'll definitely be riding shotgun the first day back at the Hill. :shift:

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks tispco. Brian, I'm not sure who'll tune it yet. The only reason I may not stick with Justin at VMP is because of the extra hassle and uncertainty of tuning via email. It's just always a bit more reassuring to have the tuner in the car while it's sitting on a roller, ya know? However, it's really nice not to have to tow the car somewhere just to get it tuned.

I may give AED a shot at it, but they probably won't be too happy with me for awhile now that I decided to go with MMR instead of them, after him-hawing back and forth for a couple weeks. ;)

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Harald, I'm sticking with the Novi yeah. I'm adding the intercooler, however, before she gets fired up again. With the forged internals, 8 rib pulley kit, and much smaller blower pulley, the old 1200 ought to get a chance to really wake up.

 

Hey Larry, my goal is to have old blue back in operation in time to follow the Nor-Cal clan south for the big Vegas Bash. :shift:

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, you're doing it right and take your time. Keep an eye on those MMR heads, I had bad luck with their stage II heads on the GT500.

I'm going to go with a conservative cam this time around and pay the extra coin to get the heads done right.

Either way, the whole thing makes me nervous obviously. I'm going to keep on MMR with the whole thing and just hope nothing goes wrong.

Hell I may be doing weekly top end inspections for the first few months. I just really don't want to have to do this again for a VERY long time.

Thanks again for all of your input man. You've had tons of great advice thus far. Good luck with your own project.

 

Ken

 

p.s. Thanks for offering AstroDan! I may be hosting an engine install/start-up BBQ at my house here in no time. I'll bring the beer and wrenches, you guys bring the extra hands. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to go with a conservative cam this time around and pay the extra coin to get the heads done right.

Either way, the whole thing makes me nervous obviously. I'm going to keep on MMR with the whole thing and just hope nothing goes wrong.

Hell I may be doing weekly top end inspections for the first few months. I just really don't want to have to do this again for a VERY long time.

Thanks again for all of your input man. You've had tons of great advice thus far. Good luck with your own project.

 

Ken

 

p.s. Thanks for offering AstroDan! I may be hosting an engine install/start-up BBQ at my house here in no time. I'll bring the beer and wrenches, you guys bring the extra hands. :)

 

Be glad to help. I'm really interested because, as you know, I got a quote from AED for their short-block installed. basically $3850 + extra bolts etc and labor. I like the idea of MMR and their history. I think you may have hit on the right way to go for our 4.6....

She'll be awesome!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be glad to help. I'm really interested because, as you know, I got a quote from AED for their short-block installed. basically $3850 + extra bolts etc and labor. I like the idea of MMR and their history. I think you may have hit on the right way to go for our 4.6....

She'll be awesome!!!!

Thanks buddy, I'm counting on it being awesome! :)

As for AED, I really like Drew and Shaun and they've been helpful throughout my waffling. But when it came down to it, I realized that I could just use the same machine/assembly shop that they use. Another deal breaker for me was the fact that it costs the same whether I use their new aluminum block or whether I have them machine my block (where it should be $600-$700 less according to Motor Machines).

 

If you want a shop where you can drop the car off and not worry about a thing, then pick the car up a couple weeks later completely done, AED is the best option in the area, IMO. However, I wanted to shed as much middle man cost and labor cost that I could. Out the door, AED wanted about $10k to take care of this entire project the way I wanted it done. Doing it my way, I won't be into it any more than $6k. It's going to take more time and a lot more hassle on my part, but that money saved will pay for my new exhaust, clutch, flywheel, etc. The pace of the project will also allow me to stage the cost out a bit over the course of many weeks instead of having to pay that $10k in a lump sum, which will help to deflect the financial blow somewhat.

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks buddy, I'm counting on it being awesome! :)

As for AED, I really like Drew and Shaun and they've been helpful throughout my waffling. But when it came down to it, I realized that I could just use the same machine/assembly shop that they use. Another deal breaker for me was the fact that it costs the same whether I use their new aluminum block or whether I have them machine my block (where it should be $600-$700 less according to Motor Machines).

 

If you want a shop where you can drop the car off and not worry about a thing, then pick the car up a couple weeks later completely done, AED is the best option in the area, IMO. However, I wanted to shed as much middle man cost and labor cost that I could. Out the door, AED wanted about $10k to take care of this entire project the way I wanted it done. Doing it my way, I won't be into it any more than $6k. It's going to take more time and a lot more hassle on my part, but that money saved will pay for my new exhaust, clutch, flywheel, etc. The pace of the project will also allow me to stage the cost out a bit over the course of many weeks instead of having to pay that $10k in a lump sum, which will help to deflect the financial blow somewhat.

 

Ken

 

By awesome, I mean like Big Carls!!!!!

 

I don't really have the facilities or tools to do the work myself, so I'm looking at getting the parts like you. Then get a good mechanic to do the install. I may take her up to AED for the tune though... That 950 kit looks perfect, maybe the 900?

 

I agree that the "extra" 3 or 4k shoukld come in handy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By awesome, I mean like Big Carls!!!!!

 

I don't really have the facilities or tools to do the work myself, so I'm looking at getting the parts like you. Then get a good mechanic to do the install. I may take her up to AED for the tune though... That 950 kit looks perfect, maybe the 900?

 

I agree that the "extra" 3 or 4k shoukld come in handy.

Yeah man for sure! :lol:

If it's half the motor Carl has, I'll be happy for as long as it's running. As for the 900 kit, that's the kit I originally called Rick to order, but he told me that the 950 is a whole lot better kit for only a couple hundred dollars more. The guy has been really honest so far and willing to help with whatever he can that I took his word for it and upgraded to the 950. If MMR is on your radar at all, give Rick a call. He's not always the easiest guy to get a hold of, but once he's on the phone, he'll take hours if you need it and answer any questions you've got, even if you don't buy anything from them.

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread will document my engine build. I decided today to go with MMR on the majority of the parts. A local shop called Motor Machines will do the machining and assembly. They do all of the machine work for many shops in and around Sacramento, including AED and NorCal Motorsports.

 

Rick at MMR helped me a ton with the parts I need and has helped me to draft up a plan for the rest of the build. Here's what I ordered today.

 

MMR Stroker 950 Street Mod rotating assembly:

MMR 8 bolt forged stroker steel racing crankshaft

Manley 4340 forged H-beam rods

Manley forged pistons (.020" over)

Hastings piston rings

Clevite rod and main cap bearings

ARP main studs

ARP rod bolts

MMR 'Hurricane' internal billet geared oil pump

MMR Romeo Racing engine sidebolt/washer kit

 

goodluck with the build. MMR is a great company and they really know there stuff

 

The new engine will have a 9:1 compression ratio, which Rick thinks is the perfect choice for my Paxton Novi 1200. Since Rick worked at Paxton for a long time, I'm taking his word for it. Once I can get the motor torn down at work, I'll drop it off at Motor Machines for the machining that's necessary.

Next, the cams will go off to Comp for inspection and warranty claim. Once I have a resolution out of Comp, the heads will be sent to MMR for porting/polishing/assembly. Finally, the complete heads will be brought to Motor Machines for the final long block assembly and timing setup. NorCal will then re-install the long block and I'll put the rest back together at home.

 

The stroker kit and other parts will ship in a week or two. I'm relieved to have a goal in sight with this unexpected project. Stay tuned...

 

Ken

 

rotating%20assembly.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about that last post it is hard doing this on my iPhone. Meant to say good luck with your build you picked the right company. MMR is a great company and they really know the mod motor

Thanks much. They've left me with a good feeling so far, hopefully nothing changes.

 

Hey Ken you can count on me if you need yet another set of hands to help out. The BBQ part sounds good too! :D

I knew that a BBQ would get you up here if nothing else Dan! :lol:

Just joshin man. I'll keep ya posted on a good weekend for you guys to cruise up.

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you guys may have already addressed this, what is the redline on these MMR 950hp 5.0 short blocks?

 

With this setup with the low compression for adding a blower or turbo later, is it safe to say it would it push less hp/tq than compared to the factory 4.6?

 

If so, how much less roughly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you guys may have already addressed this, what is the redline on these MMR 950hp 5.0 short blocks?

 

With this setup with the low compression for adding a blower or turbo later, is it safe to say it would it push less hp/tq than compared to the factory 4.6?

 

If so, how much less roughly?

According to Rick at MMR, the stroke/bore adds roughly 40HP alone. Not sure on how the compression ratio affects that, however.

The redline on the 950 stroker kit is 8500 RPM. B)

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CONGRATS KEN ON YOUR NEW SETUP AND GAME PLAN. IT SOUNDS LIKE

 

A SWEET SWEET PACKAGE. I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT A TEAR DOWN

 

AND DOING FORGE INTERNALS MYSELF. B.O.L. WITH YOUR PROJECT.

 

SCOTTY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW, the 8500 redline is enough reason in itself to jump all over this!!!

 

anybody know how high the stock valvetrain/heads will keep it spinning?

That, my man, is a damn fine question. I'm going to upgrade everything up top that I can afford, but I won't be upping the redline till I know the answer to your question.

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...
...